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doglover

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Posts posted by doglover

  1. You might check your local genset dealer for better price same unit as Global. We did that for a Kwai Thong 2KW and also got good service returning the first two units that would trip the breaker after 15 minutes without overload (I think from heat sensor but don't know for sure). The 3rd unit has performed brilliantly for over 1 year now.

    I was thinking the same and will check around before I purchase. Much rather buy from a local small family business even if the price is slightly higher (which it often isn't).

  2. The safest way for your genset is just to connect the generator ground terminal to your system ground bar, that's what we have done. Use an RCD if you don't already have one in circuit.

    Some recommend grounding the genset neutral but many small generators don't like that and may cook themselves, I wouldn't.

    Six months on from the installation of the little switch I have some additional recommendations, don't try to squeeze 10mm2 cable in, there really isn't room, use 6mm2 max (or whatever is suitable for your load the genset is happy on a 2.5mm2 cable).

    Thanks for clearing up the grounding. As far as cable goes I think I will just run 2.5 as the day I get a real generator may never come.

  3. I plan on purchasing the same Kwai Tong Generator as you have Crossy (18,500B @ Global today). And will try ordering the switch from China and modifying it. Thanks for the info.

    There still seems to be some disagreement between yourself and electau on how this setup should be grounded/earthed.

    Crossy says neutral connected to ground point at generator and then connect to a local ground stake. I assume this is a separate ground stake from your main CU ground stake, yes?

    electau says connect the ground of the generator to the main CU ground bar.

  4. I live in Kalasin and just 500 metres from my house are some hills with lots of tracks that would be great for mountain biking. I'm also from Canada, not too many of us around Kalasin.

    Well hello there Issangeorge! I didn't realize there were any Canadians around Kalasin, or hills for that matter. I'll send you a PM.

  5. I really dont know building but as a general outside observation...11000 or so baht...with 50% materials...5500 for 2 days labour.

    If a skilled worker as you said then I would think it could be good. Quality costs.

    Ripping it down and buying fresh materials also costs (how much did the previous posters wonky wall cost?)

    But if 'has skills' but not "really" skilled, you can get a semi competant worker for 500B a day and worse for less.

    All boils down to how good the builder is. Do you have references? If so what did they pay per day?

    how much did the previous posters wonky wall cost?

    I reckon we were around 8,000 baht down (price old bricks/new bricks/cement/labour) from repairing two sections of the wall.

    The new guy we got to finish the work (friend of the family and our original choice) has done a great job repairing the original walls.

    We also got him to render all the new walls +/- 30 mtrs,tile the front of the home,make a roof over the front yard and panel it inside and out.

    All in for 42,000 baht which will be rounded off to 45,000 when he is finished as we are happy with his work.

    Repaired wall

    attachicon.gif1.JPG

    A small portion of the un worked panels.

    attachicon.gif2.JPG

    Roof and outside panelling

    attachicon.gif3.jpg

    The guy(and his worker) have still got about a weeks work before they are finished.

    but it just goes to show that quality doesnt always have to come at a price.

    Nice workmanship there. Also good to see a farang keeping the village the way it is meant to be. It took me awhile to realize that there is brilliance in simplicity.

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  6. It could be that the fan brand isn't the only problem. Another posters has run for 10 years. Do you check your voltage from time to time? If your house in a rural location under voltage issues could be the reason your fans are burning out.


  7. I think you are more curious if your proposition would work or not rather than just being provided a solution. Assuming the garden light strings are wired in parallel what you suggest would work except for the timer. It needs a power source on it's line side. If it was backfed the circuit would be open at the timer unless it was already in a closed position from prior operation. Yet with the garden lights wired in parallel if you closed the switch at the opposite end from the timer the lights will still light up. And if you closed the switch at the timer end the lights would operate as per the timer settings (keeping in mind if one switch is closed the other must be opened prior to any switching being performed)...blink.png ... I have a headache already...

    So, as you can see it just is not the way to do things. Not to mention the electrical codes it goes against.

  8. I have several of the same roll up blinds around the house. But if your only goal is to block heat build up from the sun and they will not be used to block rain I might try a different material. If the fence is right beside the house the tarp material itself and the airspace around it heats up a lot in direct sunlight and will still heat up the wall to higher than ambient temperature. If it would suit your home, I might try the same thing but made of split bamboo pieces woven together, like you would see at grassroots type Oceanside bungalows and restaurants. This kind of thing would also not set sail with as much force when the wind picks up, but would still need to be secured lightly in moderate winds.

  9. Rinsing the babies mouth with a little clean pure water after feeding is a good idea and can keep there tongue from becoming coated white. A little is the key, suckling for 2 or 3 minutes would be too long. But is the baby sucking the whole time or just playing with the nipple. Ours just chews on the nipple most of the time and gets the odd squirt of water.

  10. Gentlemen and sparkies, am I the only one to notice that the fuses (far left) appear to be feeding only the control gear?

    There is (should be) no load current passing through them, so why are 30A fuses fitted, and why do they pop?

    Or am I missing something?

    No you are not. They are only feeding the control circuit.

    Line side of mains comes in at top right of terminal strip and then feeds

    43 or 45 amp (hard to see) MCB's which then,

    Reverse feeds T1 of contactors.

    L1 of contactors feeds load side at top left of terminal strip feeding main CU and sub-CU.

    Mains at L1 are jumpered over to L3.

    T3 has two wires terminated and feeds fuse holders and surge arrestors.

    Hence my comment of an in\out relationship.

    So why indeed do the 30 amp fuses have those big line feeds and tiny little yellow wires on the load side?

  11. @doglover sorry to be abrupt, but I am just trying now to put this thread to bed.

    If myself and crossy have agreed on something that must be concrete right?

    Anyways ALL people following this thread will HAVE learned something thats for sure.

    so if we can put this to bed I would be very happy, as I need to go spot some trains!!!!

    Certainly not. As the purpose is to answer the OP's inquiry not determine whom is supreme ruler of electrical knowledge. And certainly no need to be sorry as I'm always happy to learn something. But the way I see it.... reversed polarity in the receptacle, RCD not functioning properly and a DIY'er not inserting the gadget quickly enough could result in fireworks with a N-E hardwired gizmo. But I have never been one to assert any concrete electrical knowledge.

    I would think this thread would not be put to bed until the OP is resting assured that his electrical installation is sound.

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