Repent Harlequin Said The Tuk Tuk Man

[alobar]

On Sharecroppers supportive prodding, I humbly submit my tale of woe. Let the barbs fly.

The Tuk Tuk and the King's Birthday

I first visited the land of smiles in 1982. I was a wide eyed rube,

knowing not much more of the history of the land I was fascinated with,

than a schoolboy. I just happened to arrive in Thailand on the 3d of

December, and found a savvy fellow traveler who recommended a nearby

place with affordable lodging called Khao San Rd. I remember that there

were just 5 guest houses on the main road. (FYI , there are over 3,000 now)

Settled in I wandered over to the first large structure in sight, which

was Democracy monument. I saw the construction of what looked to be a

festival, and was told it was for the King's birthday. Two days later I

was amazed to see the fantastic transformation of Ratchadamroen into an

enormously fun and reverential tribute to a beloved figure. I felt

honored and privileged to be there, and it was an event that I have

celebrated in my heart, for the people of Thailand, and as well for the

memories of my youth, ever since.

I have been back to Thailand many times over the years, but for some

reason, this particular trip, my retirement recon trip, which I scheduled to coincide with the

King's birthday, seemed extra momentous. It was just a feeling. December

5th I made my way down to Sanam Luang, and then over to the Grand

Palace, hoping to get a glimpse of royalty. I was thrilled to be

participating again, surrounded by literally a million people.

As night fell, and the festivities started becoming more widespread and

diverse, I found myself walking faster and faster in the Bangkok heat,

not wanting to miss a thing. I felt overexerted at one point, and sought

out some bottled water, as I figured that I had dehydrated myself. A few

minutes rest, and I was off again. This time my exertion began taking a

larger toll on me, and I found a small bridge over a klong to lean on,

and hold my chest. I was holding my chest. It then hit me like a sad

begrudging lighting bolt, in slow motion but inexorably moving towards

me, that I was having a heart attack. The last thing I remember before

trying to leave there, was a young boy of maybe 16, selling a pile of

pink wrist bands. I looked at him quizzically, as everything was

starting to slow down. He said to me; 'it's for King, for birthday',

give you good luck'. Good luck was what I needed. All roads in and out

were closed to traffic, and the side streets were filled beyond capacity

with a procession of candlelit devotees. Cars were at standstill with

engines off. And then a lone Tuk tuk loomed into view. I flagged him

down and said I had to get to Bumrungrad. He said; 'maybe motorcy'

faster'. I had thought of that, but wasn't convinced of my ability to

stay upright, so thought if I had to keel over, i would rather it be on

the soft cushion of the Tuk Tuk. He was the happiest fellow I have ever

seen, and agreed, although suggesting it was a hopelessly stuck traffic

nightmare, but that he would take me. The most embarrassing part of this

whole adventure, in retrospect, is that being an inveterate traveler, I

actually found myself bargaining the rate, while clutching my chest. We

found common ground and set off. It was a nearly two hour 'ride' moving

cell by cell through the throngs, with groups passing in front and

behind the Tuk tuk and one man suggesting that I drive, as it would have

the same outcome. Thousands upon thousands of yellow candles passing by

me, the lights of the grand palace, it was something Fellini could only

have dreamed of capturing. Imperceptibly we wended our way out of

Banglamphu and out towards Silom and Praturnam, and them magically into

the normal evening maelstrom of Sukhumwit traffic, and even here, as was

everywhere, the streets were completely lined with singing, candle

holding worshipers. It would have almost been fitting should I have

exited the world right then, as it was, and I hate to use such a loaded

word, but 'heavenly'., and finally landing at the doors of the emergency

room at Bumrungrad. I stumbled forward through them and said, I was

having chest pain. They took me in within seconds, and I remember one

male nurse, while prepping me, saying that I was lucky to have this

happen now, that it was the King's birthday and that it was good luck

for me.

I have spent my entire adult life either studying or working in

emergency medicine. I have taken people through the ER doors on

thousands of occasions. It is a profoundly different experience to

humbly be taken over by others in their pursuit of your health care.

There was a calm urgency, a seriousness and honesty of all whom were

working on my behalf. There is an old saying that it's easy to be a holy

man at the top of a mountain, meaning it's less easy while facing death

under the bright lights of the ER. While no holy man, I have long tried

to follow the precepts of Buddhism, and had hoped to feel calm and

complete at any moment. The reiteration from the cardiac staff that this

indeed could be my final moment was sobering and honest, and really I

felt relatively OK with it. I also knew I was in the very best medical

hands I could have hoped for.

I spent the next 5 days in the CCU and then a recovery floor. I am a

privileged westerner, with global insurance, and knew that I had the

'gold card of access' to Bumrungrad, It's reputation far before it. I am

not unaware of that. That being said, I feel the essence of a hospital's

care is measured not only in the technical superiority of it's upper

echelon, but the true caring and job satisfaction of the people who are

the nuts and bolts of any operation. There was genuine caring on all

levels, and a level of urgency, diligence, and compassion that I have

rarely seen in the west.

I am now back to my relatively old self one month later, and owe it

in equal measure to a dedicated Tuk tuk driver, the

skill of my health care team, and the luck of a King.

Choog Dii

[terrier123]

Great story in these cynical times -- happy to share with you

[Meridian007]

Wow, you are a lucky man! Great story!

Who was your insurance provider? It's always hard to decide on one, so positive stories about level of support tend to be more important to me than data on paper.

[bonobo]

Good story.  Thanks for sharing.

[craighj]

Excellent story indeed!

[sanook2me]

Great story sort of... glad you're okay now...

It worries me here the longer i stay the more absurd the safety issues become with things like emergency ambulances.... bloody tuk tuk to hospital when having a heart attack....that is not funny...

Good luck to you on future travels

[harrry]

Hope the insurance paid for the tuk tuk.

Good to hear things worked out well.

[PeaceBlondie]

ONE LOOOOONG PARAGRAPH

[Matan]

I literally refuse to read that until it is sensibly paragraphed.

[zzdocxx]

God bless you.