50kgs chlorine

[Raesum]

I have 50kgs chlorine for sale(well just under as a few scoops taken out) 3000THB. Have changed to chlorinator system so chlorine no longer required

[SantiSuk]

If it's stabilized chlorine it will be useful for replenishing the cyanauric acid in your pool. You will start to see CyA levels drift down and powdered CYa is darned expensive

if it's non-stabilised chlorine it will be useful for shock-treating your pool.

Maybe think twice before burning bridges?

Edited May 27, 2015 by SantiSuk

[SwimmingPoolsThailand]

Even with the very reliable high quality chlorinators you will always need to keep some powder, granule, tablet, or liquid chlorine in stock. There are times when you will still need to boost the chlorine level. For example: power outages, heavy dilution from tropical rainfall (one shower can easily send 10% of the water to the overflow) , and servicing.
Here in Thailand tropical rain showers will therefore also provide all the dilution you need if ever the CYA level creeps up.

If you are using a saltwater chlorinator on an outside pool, you will need to ADD cyanuric acid. The regular monthly boosting and shocking with normal 90% TCCA (stabilised chlorine) should add all the CYA you need, but if it doesn't we sell CYA in very small quantities at competitive prices.

Edited May 28, 2015 by SwimmingPoolsThailand

[IMHO]

If you are using a saltwater chlorinator on an outside pool, you will need to ADD cyanuric acid. The regular monthly boosting and shocking with normal 90% TCCA (stabilised chlorine) should add all the CYA you need, but if it doesn't we sell CYA in very small quantities at competitive prices.

Am I missing something here?

I have an outdoor pool with SWG and I've never shocked it, and never put any chlorine in it (apart from some liquid chlorine during the initial water fill). I keep my Chlorine around 3 PPM, and keep everything else on the lowest side of the scale (calcium, TA, CYA, even salt) - Ph is always naturally stable at 7.5.

Should I be regularly shocking or boosting my pool?

[Chaichara]

Should I be regularly shocking or boosting my pool?

Not boosting but boasting that you have such a perfectly maintained pool with little or no addition of chemicals. Congratulations - a rarity indeed.

[SantiSuk]

I've had periods of great stability like that but a longer than normal absence (stand-by pool boy is a bit variable!), a breakdown or a seasonal change will do something to eventually knock the pool off balance. This last time was my TA testing tablets having obviously run out of date. Got increasingly suspicious that they were giving a different offish sort of pink colour around 100 and it never seemed to change. Took advantage of being in the UK to get some more. Got back tested - TA actually down to 30!! No wonder pH had been bouncing around a bit. [it's just taken me best part of 9kg of sodium bicarb to get my 90 cu.m pool back to 100 - in 2.4kg daily doses. That's a lot of little 300g packets - anyone know where to buy 25kg sacks?]

Anyway, I don't shock my pool as a matter of routine - I just wait till the combined chlorine gets above say 0.3ppm (at total CL of 2.00ppm). Internet advice on shocking is so variable (some say weekly - very nice for the chlorine manufacturer and retailer!) just pick an approach that suits!

I'm getting some of that variability of chlorination that SPoT cautioned against above. It's darned hot in Isaan and everyone is using up power (aircon, fans, agricultural water pumps). In the evening I can tell my pump is running at a lower power (can hardly get the neon tube lights to fire, so not surprising the pump is struggling) and chlorination is working with super-inneficiency. I'm having to top up with manually-dosed chlorine. Cheaper than increasing pumping time I think.

[SwimmingPoolsThailand]

No wonder pH had been bouncing around a bit. [it's just taken me best part of 9kg of sodium bicarb to get my 90 cu.m pool back to 100 - in 2.4kg daily doses. That's a lot of little 300g packets - anyone know where to buy 25kg sacks?]

Perhaps this might help

and if you need bulk quantities in 25 Kg sacks please go here.

Edited May 30, 2015 by SwimmingPoolsThailand

[IMHO]

I've had periods of great stability like that but a longer than normal absence (stand-by pool boy is a bit variable!), a breakdown or a seasonal change will do something to eventually knock the pool off balance. This last time was my TA testing tablets having obviously run out of date. Got increasingly suspicious that they were giving a different offish sort of pink colour around 100 and it never seemed to change. Took advantage of being in the UK to get some more. Got back tested - TA actually down to 30!! No wonder pH had been bouncing around a bit. [it's just taken me best part of 9kg of sodium bicarb to get my 90 cu.m pool back to 100 - in 2.4kg daily doses. That's a lot of little 300g packets - anyone know where to buy 25kg sacks?]

Anyway, I don't shock my pool as a matter of routine - I just wait till the combined chlorine gets above say 0.3ppm (at total CL of 2.00ppm). Internet advice on shocking is so variable (some say weekly - very nice for the chlorine manufacturer and retailer!) just pick an approach that suits!

I'm getting some of that variability of chlorination that SPoT cautioned against above. It's darned hot in Isaan and everyone is using up power (aircon, fans, agricultural water pumps). In the evening I can tell my pump is running at a lower power (can hardly get the neon tube lights to fire, so not surprising the pump is struggling) and chlorination is working with super-inneficiency. I'm having to top up with manually-dosed chlorine. Cheaper than increasing pumping time I think.

Are you concerned about the longevity of your chlorinator if it's running at low voltages? Have you considered installing a voltage stabilizer?

I have both a voltage stabilizer (whole house), and a phase protector in my pump room as an extra precaution - which cuts off all power to pumps and the chlorinator if the mains drops <200 or > 240.

I'm also curious why you run your pump in the evening? Doesn't it make more sense to add chlorine (i.e. run the chlorinator) during sunlight hours when the sun is sucking the chorine out of the pool? I spend a couple of days every few weeks testing the water 3-5 times/day and re-adjusting pump time and chlorinator output to maintain a steady chlorine balance.

The only time I run my pumps at night is when we have a pool party or big rainstorm - in those cases I'll up the SWG to 100% and leave the pump running all night. Chlorine levels can hit 5PPM when I do that, but that's pretty easy to manage back down.

[Anthony5]

I've had periods of great stability like that but a longer than normal absence (stand-by pool boy is a bit variable!), a breakdown or a seasonal change will do something to eventually knock the pool off balance. This last time was my TA testing tablets having obviously run out of date. Got increasingly suspicious that they were giving a different offish sort of pink colour around 100 and it never seemed to change. Took advantage of being in the UK to get some more. Got back tested - TA actually down to 30!! No wonder pH had been bouncing around a bit. [it's just taken me best part of 9kg of sodium bicarb to get my 90 cu.m pool back to 100 - in 2.4kg daily doses. That's a lot of little 300g packets - anyone know where to buy 25kg sacks?]

Anyway, I don't shock my pool as a matter of routine - I just wait till the combined chlorine gets above say 0.3ppm (at total CL of 2.00ppm). Internet advice on shocking is so variable (some say weekly - very nice for the chlorine manufacturer and retailer!) just pick an approach that suits!

I'm getting some of that variability of chlorination that SPoT cautioned against above. It's darned hot in Isaan and everyone is using up power (aircon, fans, agricultural water pumps). In the evening I can tell my pump is running at a lower power (can hardly get the neon tube lights to fire, so not surprising the pump is struggling) and chlorination is working with super-inneficiency. I'm having to top up with manually-dosed chlorine. Cheaper than increasing pumping time I think.

Are you concerned about the longevity of your chlorinator if it's running at low voltages? Have you considered installing a voltage stabilizer?

I have both a voltage stabilizer (whole house), and a phase protector in my pump room as an extra precaution - which cuts off all power to pumps and the chlorinator if the mains drops <200 or > 240.

I'm also curious why you run your pump in the evening? Doesn't it make more sense to add chlorine (i.e. run the chlorinator) during sunlight hours when the sun is sucking the chorine out of the pool? I spend a couple of days every few weeks testing the water 3-5 times/day and re-adjusting pump time and chlorinator output to maintain a steady chlorine balance.

The only time I run my pumps at night is when we have a pool party or big rainstorm - in those cases I'll up the SWG to 100% and leave the pump running all night. Chlorine levels can hit 5PPM when I do that, but that's pretty easy to manage back down.

zI run my filters in my SWG pool twice a day, in the early morning and in the evening after the sun went down. Advantage is that the chlorine that is generated in the evening stays active until the morning.And the cycle early morning is brings your chlorine to a high level starting the day.

Also don't understand why people have so much problem stabilizing their pool. I haven't added any chemicals to my pool for at least 3 months. I have a Zodiac SWG with pH module, but the HCI pump is disconnected and a digital pH meter, and both show that my pH stays between 7.2 and 7.5 for the past 3 months. It gets to 7.5 when the water level gets low I guess because of the extra chlorine level in the water at those times, but adding well water brings the pH to level.

What I have learned is to forget about those set numbers for TA, because there are so many factors on which the correct TA level depends. Balancing a pool correctly doesn't mean calculating how much backing soda you need to reach 110ppm. Balancing a pool correctly may take weeks of monitoring and adjusting, but once it's completed you reap the rewards.

One should start with bringing the pH to 7.2 and checking the TA level, then adding some sodium bicarbonate if the TA levels are too low and wait several days to see how the pH reacts, and proceed accordingly.

My pool has a TA level of between 50 and 60ppm, and as you notice above my pH level is very stable. Bringing the TA level to 110ppm as is "recommended" will get my pH raising continuously.

[SantiSuk]

There's a lot to be said for using water supplies for balancing a pool. EG the TA of rain water here at the moment is 20, that of my well is 200+ and the village water supply is 100. Lots of scope for water management rather than chemical management.

[IMHO]

There's a lot to be said for using water supplies for balancing a pool. EG the TA of rain water here at the moment is 20, that of my well is 200+ and the village water supply is 100. Lots of scope for water management rather than chemical management.

Yep, for sure - my fill water (Tambon supplied mains, filtered before going into my tanks) has a pH of 6.8-7.0 - which works out perfectly for countering the pH rise of my SWG and aeration from the waterfall and jets Not once have I added hydrochloric acid or any other pH reducer.

Edited June 1, 2015 by IMHO