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Posted

I'm in the initial planning stages for a trip this fall. Looks like the dates will be roughly October 18 to November 8th, or so. Is this an OK time to visit? I'm basically going to do the major tourist spots and hopefully get a few treks in around Inle Lake.

I'm guessing they've got the same weather pattern as here, with the monsoon tapering off, but still a chance for rain and storms????

I'll post some updates later as I start to get the schedule laid out. But looks like I'll fly into Yangoon and out of Mandalay. Or the reverse.

Thanks!!

Posted

Yes, pretty much what you said. The monsoon rains (southwest monsoons) will be moving south so most of the country will be dry as the northeast monsoon (dry season) begins, though could be the rogue storm pop up at some point in that 3 week period.

Posted

Thanks! I appreciate the confirmation. I'm hoping to be a bit more flexible with my time on this trip, perhaps even coming back overland rather than by air. Or, just buy a last minute ticket from the nearest airport.

The only activity I have planned that would be a problem with rain is the 3-5 days of trekking in and around Inle. Otherwise, it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I'll start in the North and then work my way down!

Again, thanks.

Posted

Just relating to your travel arrangements, you can fly into Yangon very cheaply on Nok Air, and out again from Mandalay quite reasonably on Air Asia!

Weather should be very acceptable at that time of year!

Posted

I was going to enter at Ranong and exit at Mae Sai. Or vice versa. But seems the northern part is a bit restricted. And with only 3 weeks, travel from Yangoon down to Ranong should take a bit more time than I have. Too much to see! 55555

So, going to focus on the northern part this time. Trying to arrange it during a few festivals around Inle. The Phaung Daw OO Pagoda festival and the Festival of Lights.

Richard: is it hard to get to Mrauk-U??? I've read various reports that seem to indicate it could be an issue. Especially without a guide.

Posted (edited)

Hard NOPE Easy look on TA Myanmar under New Express Bus for Mandalay-Mrauk U

LONG bus ( 20 + hours) or fly to Sittwe than boat or Bus up

MY last trip was to the north (up to Myitkyina) an back to Mandalay by Boat

Take a look at my photos, http://www.reitman-photo.com/f125862719

If u enter by land u MUST get visa in advance at the embassy in Bangkok ,

Ranong is LONG way from Inle lake!!!!

Edited by phuketrichard
Posted

I've seen your pics. Beautiful. Thanks for sharing!

I'm pretty sure I'll fly to Mandalay. Pretty cheap prices right now on AA.

I think I'm too old for a 20 hour bus ride! 55555

Posted

change money at the airport, there 3-4 banks so compare rates,

I usually change $300 into Kyat. which lasts me 10 -12 days along with some us $$ You can also pick up a cheap sim card there.I use MPT,

Dont forget AA offers a free bus ride into town at Mandalay stops on street 79 about 300 meters from the train station.

Never to old LOL but i prefer trains

Posted

Great recommendation. Thanks! I love trains. But saw the No Reservations show on Burma. Seemed like the train ride was quite rough????

I'd really like to do a boat trip up/down a river. Given my itinerary, what would you recommend? I don't think I need to spend the night, just do a day cruise.

Thanks for everybody's help! I'm getting excited. This will be my first trip, excluding the border towns.

Posted

Suggest you do what i did last year

the boat down to Bagan (10 hours) stay 2 nights ( plenty of time as u only need 1 day to do the Pagodas) and took the train back ( 8 hours) ;

loved it

Trains are very enjoyable

You can do a day trip out of Mandalay to Mingun ( only 12 kms or so)

am sure u will enjoy,

Posted

My first trip was October couple of years ago and followed the well trodden Yangon/Bagan/Inle path and certainly no major weather issues but we did see plenty of rain in Inle.

Yangon I expected to find a famous temple as the high point but not to be. Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda's 65 meters long reclining Buddha was by far the most interesting sight I saw. I just found myself sitting there with the local folk for probably an hour and thoroughly enjoying the experience. Its in town so take a look.

Bagan was OK but after 3 days I left as theres a limit to how many temples this lad can handle. Low point was searching out the only Indian temple there and having some clown drop a bloody paint pot from 10mts up and ruining my 150baht copy shirt I had just bought. Just put it down to a bad religous experience and carried on, no choice.

Inle I adored and 2 consecutive days got up at the crack of dawn to head out on a boat to attend the markets some of which are miles up inlets little more than a boats width wide. Loved it. Final day we slowed matters down and took a horse and cart and just told the bloke to take us on a 4 hour ride and not sure we saw another tourist once we got 10 minutes out of town. If you are interested there is a vineyard close to town but we came across it close to dusk and the old boy wanted to get back to town so didn't sample.

http://www.redmountain-estate.com/index.html

Have been 6 times now and have trips 7 and 8 booked for January and February.

Posted

LOL. I also have a limit as to how many temples I can see! I'm sticking to one full day in Bagan. Maybe 2 in Yangon, but one might be a partial travel day.

I'm really looking forward to Inle and the surrounds!

Posted (edited)

Bagan is worth 2 days the local market/ town is very interesting and sees few tourists as there all out at the pagodas.

I found its only sunrise and sunset that makes Bagan worth the trip,( unlike Angkor wat where i return all the time) beside that I

got tired of seeing so many new ones and the old ones being whitewashed that we had a mid day LONG lunch and nap

Edited by phuketrichard
Posted

I'll slip this in here as judging by last year there won't be a lot of interest. Naga new year will be held 14-16 January in Lahe, Sagaing. Last year there were festivities in 2 of the 3 designated towns but to date just Lahe has been announced. I'll be heading there with the wife and will make arrangements when I get back from India end of September.

Note Indian Naga new year is hald December in Kohima, Nagaland but that is completely commercial.

Posted

Just got the air ticket. Bangkok to Mandalay. Noticed prices going up a fair amount. From 2,700B a few weeks ago to 4,200B today!

So...Trying to put this all together. A few days in Mandalay then looking at going to either Hsipaw or Pyin OO Lwin for a few days. After that I've got Inle and Bagan. Any thoughts as to the best schedule? Seems to be a long bus ride between points in this triangle. I like the idea of a boat ride to Bagan. I don't enjoy over night train/bus rides. I'm in no hurry and enjoy looking at the scenery during the day. But...don't want to endure a long bus/train ride if it's not enjoyable. Maybe better to fly! Especially to Yangoon as that will be my next stop, then overland to Bangkok, checking out some sights along the way.

I appreciate the help!

Craig

Posted

if it was me;

RENT a motorcycle and do the trip i did Mandalay -Pyin OO Lwin- Hsipaw-back easy 3-4 days great small roads and no traffic to deal with

Morning in Hsipaw is great, lots of monks out

or if u cant handle a bike the train one way an bus/taxi back

than day boat down to Bagan ( does not run everyday) get the tourist boat $40 or so lunch 10 hours

Bus over to INle

bus or fly down to Yangon.

if ur going to exit overland

Yangon Train to Kyaikto (golden rock) 4 1/2 hours or so

Kyaikto- Moulmen bus or train 4-5 hours

overland and exit at Myawaddy/Mae sot

Posted

MPT sucks. Buy a Telenor SIM card. The owner is apparently the same guy who runs DTAC (who is Norwegian).

Weather in late October/November should be fantastic. Yes, there might still be some rain, but usually it's quite dry by that time of year. Although parts of Myanmar have been affected by flooding this year while many parts of Thailand have undergone their worst drought on record, I suspect that in general quite a few parts of Myanmar are also drier than average so just like in Thailand, I would predict that this year by October/November there won't be a drop of rain given that we've hardly had any rain in Bangkok recently which is bizarre given it's supposed to be the so-called rainy season.

If you want to enter by land, try Htee Khee/Phu Nam Ron or Myawady/Mae Sot. I would rather fly OUT of Myanmar one way than in, mainly due to the one way ticket issue. If you can't furnish proof of outbound travel you can be denied boarding and since I assume you live in Thailand you won't have a problem flying back to Thailand on a one way ticket, but flying INTO Myanmar on a one way ticket could be a problem at check-in in Thailand. With a visa you should be OK but there's a good chance you'll be questioned if all you have is a tourist visa.

I wouldn't bother with entering or exiting via Mae Sai/Tachilek because in order to travel east of Taunggyi you'll either need an expensive permit and escort (reportedly this costs about 990 US dollars including a car with driver) or you have to fly to Kengtung or Tachilek. Unless you really, really want to see eastern Shan State, give it a miss because not many foreigners go there anyway, it's not a major tourist attraction. If you enter from Mae Sot, you would first reach Hpa-an, which is a fascinating place full of limestone caves, a couple of natural rock pools and waterfalls, hill top temples and a very relaxed vibe, fantastic place. Then 2 hours up the road there's the Golden Rock, or just 1 hour west south-west the port city of Mawlamyine, with it's quaint colonial architecture, large Indian Muslim and Christian communities as well as being a gateway to the commonwealth cemetary and the other side of the death railway are all attractions.

From either Mawlamyine or Hpa-an to Yangon it's just a 5-hour car ride or about 6-7 hours by bus. There's also a train from Mawlamyine but it's uncomfortably slow and just uncomfortable in general. Expect the journey to take around 10 hours and the train to be around an hour or two late.

From Yangon, easy to get up to Mandalay along the Yangon-Mandalay expressway in about 8 hours by car, 10 hours by bus (you can travel on a night bus). Then there's also the train or you could fly, if you want to.

From there, head up to the colonial hill station of Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) with great coffee, strawberries and other temperate climate crops. Further along the Shan Plateau is Hsipaw, nice for trekking.

Or just head over to Kalaw for trekking, which is also nearby Inle Lake. From there, you could head down to Loikaw and then via Taungoo back to Myawady to cross back into Thailand. However, if the reports over on ttrweekly about a new international border crossing between Thailand and Myanmar supposedly opening by the end of the year then with some luck you might just be able to cross back into Thailand via Mae Hong Son, directly east of Taungoo, saving a lot of travel time compared to going via Myawady/Mae Sot.

Posted

Oops....just noticed you already purchased the one way flight from Bangkok to Mandalay. Well, good luck at check-in. Make sure you have your visa already BUT any Thais accompanying you won't be able to take advantage of the new visa free entry scheme if they don't have a return (round-trip) air ticket.

Posted

past 3 trips in the last 14 months

have never been asked for return trip ticket and MPT worked fine for me all over the north and even traveling down the Irrawaddy river.

was able to surf the net an get email in Bhamo and Katha as well

A Evisa is no good for entering overland and u would need get a visa at the embassy which for many of us ( unless you live in Bangkok ) is an expensive pain in the ass.

TOM TOM< maybe next time u will read the previous posts before u post,

Posted

Richard: sounds perfect. I'm OK with bikes, just don't ride them here in Thailand as I've got too many friends now dealing with the consequences of riding them....for the rest of their life! And a few that are no longer with us. But if no/little traffic, sounds like a great way to go. Having your own wheels is fantastic. Makes a huge difference. Your itinerary is perfect. I'll start working that up!

I'm quite interested in trying the Yangoon->Mae Sot overland. As you mention, check out Golden Rock and maybe even Hpa-An. I'd love to continue all the way down south, but just don't have the time.

It seems airfare is relatively cheap and I don't do overnight buses. Even with trains, I don't sleep and the next day is wasted anyway! LOL So...will probably fly from Heho to Yangoon, then continue from there. Thanks!!!!!!

Posted

Tom: yes, pulled the trigger yesterday. Flying into Mandalay. I'm in Bangkok anyway a few days before for a travel bloggers conference. So...will try to get my visa there before.

I really wanted to start at Mae Sai and head in from there, but as you say, no can do. $1,000 is a bit much for a solo traveler, but I bet the scenery is amazing. Would love to do it, but not on this trip.

I'm quite interested in some trekking. Nothing too hard, but love the idea of doing village to village treks. The one from Kalaw to Inle sounds great. As do the ones in Hsipaw. One reason I'm flying is and overlanding out is I can be a bit more flexible with my time. If I want, easy to extend a few days here or there if desired. I have to specific time to be back. Other than an anxious wife! 555555

Thanks for all the help guys! I'll keep you posted!!!!!!

Posted

past 3 trips in the last 14 months

have never been asked for return trip ticket and MPT worked fine for me all over the north and even traveling down the Irrawaddy river.

was able to surf the net an get email in Bhamo and Katha as well

A Evisa is no good for entering overland and u would need get a visa at the embassy which for many of us ( unless you live in Bangkok ) is an expensive pain in the ass.

TOM TOM< maybe next time u will read the previous posts before u post,

Haven't got time to read all the posts - I usually just respond to the original one.

MPT has major problems with connecting - often it takes 3, 4, 5 attempts to get through.

Telenor is MUCH better, so is Oredoo. None of my Burmese friends use MPT anymore. Although they were the first, the fact they are so unreliable has resulted in many people switching.

I never talked about the e-visa, maybe you should read my posts better.

There is now a Burmese consulate in Chiang Mai. They also issue visas. Travel agencies can do them too and not all of us like to fly - I've been to Myanmar overland many times now since the opening of the land borders in 2013. In 8 days time marks the 2 year anniversary since they opened.

You probably had a visa and return ticket already hence no need to be asked again. BUT as most international travellers should be aware, travelling to a foreign country on a one way ticket can be problematic. Be prepared to purchase an outbound ticket on the spot, asked for a credit card or sign a waiver. Just because you weren't asked doesn't mean the next person won't be.

Posted (edited)

Richard: sounds perfect. I'm OK with bikes, just don't ride them here in Thailand as I've got too many friends now dealing with the consequences of riding them....for the rest of their life! And a few that are no longer with us. But if no/little traffic, sounds like a great way to go. Having your own wheels is fantastic. Makes a huge difference. Your itinerary is perfect. I'll start working that up!

I'm quite interested in trying the Yangoon->Mae Sot overland. As you mention, check out Golden Rock and maybe even Hpa-An. I'd love to continue all the way down south, but just don't have the time.

It seems airfare is relatively cheap and I don't do overnight buses. Even with trains, I don't sleep and the next day is wasted anyway! LOL So...will probably fly from Heho to Yangoon, then continue from there. Thanks!!!!!!

Well you might want to re-consider riding them in Myanmar. What Richard didn't mention was that the road from Mandalay to Hsipaw and beyond is full of Mu-se, China border bound trucks carrying watermelons and other agricultural merchandise to China and Chinese made goods back.

They are all over the road and not only that, the numerous switchbacks on the road up to Pyin Oo Lwin, where you ascend from around 200m above sea level to 1100m in just a few km, then about 40km later you descend all the way back down makes it kinda hair-raising. These truck drivers often don't look, will sometimes pass on the left if they're turning angle is better and if you're not careful, the chances of a head on collision are quite high. Driving up and down these mountains on flimsy 110cc bikes dodging long semi-trailers and watermelon trucks coming around sharp turns is not going to be a walk in the park. It will require full on concentration, excellent brakes and reaction skills, make no mistake about that. It will definitely not be a relaxing drive. Even as a passenger in a Mu-se bound sedan with driver, it was bad enough! Believe me.

There are LOTS of trucks, so don't get the impression that the roads are empty. The main Mandalay-Mu-se road, which passes through Hsipaw is quite busy along it's entire length. Since 85% of all overland trade between Myanmar and it's neighbors is with China and the vast majority of this goes via the Mu-se/Ruili crossing, it explains why there are so many trucks and far more than those heading to the Thai border, for example.

Edited by Tomtomtom69
Posted

I think Richard's got lots more riding experience than me. What I might do is to take public transport up there, then rent a scooter to cruise around the back roads a bit. In Vietnam, I hired a guy to do this for me. Just sat on the back and let him do the driving! LOL

As for the Visa, I've had to buy an onward ticket before at the airport. Wasn't too big of a deal, though getting the refund took a bit more time than expected. I'll have to research this a bit more. Worst case, out $100 for a wasted ticket out of the country....

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!

Posted (edited)

trust me the roads are fine and the switchbacks are what makes it great, stopping all along the way where ever want, stop an get great view, the RR bridge, remote towns, wats ( found a great old Teak wat with a huge buddha in it), and interacting with the locals which can not be done by a bus

The trucks we encountered ( an there were not a huge amount of them) gave us a wide path and waves, an their moving so slow we were passing them on our little 125. it was a very easy ride, Much easier than riding a small bike in Thailand. Even renting the bikes to visit all the ancient cites near Mandalay is a treat.

Having a bike and being on ur own, stopping where you want, when you want is so much better than traveling by bus.

we had a great time an wouldn't have traded it for a bus ride in a million years, never saw an accident as u see n Thailand and Laos along the roads

Tom ;so you traveled to Hsipaw in a car with a burmese driver, rushing to get home? LOL

i'd rather be in control

BTW when ur in Hispaw, see if Namsham is open, ( go ask at Mr Charles GH) it opened the day before we got there an it was a great ride up and gets no tourists,

80 kms, took us 4 hours up 5 back - going up it rained most of the time so the road was muddy in many places an 2 landslides coming back closed the road so we had to wait.

Tom; u can be a real wet rag at times

Edited by phuketrichard
Posted

All I'll say is when I took the Mandalay-Pyin Oo Lwin-Hspiaw trip in January the truck traffic was absolutely chock-a-block and personally I would never recommend anyone to rid a bike on that stretch. That said I do know someone who has and they apparently enjoyed it so each to their own.

Posted (edited)

trust me the roads are fine and the switchbacks are what makes it great, stopping all along the way where ever want, stop an get great view, the RR bridge, remote towns, wats ( found a great old Teak wat with a huge buddha in it), and interacting with the locals which can not be done by a bus

The trucks we encountered ( an there were not a huge amount of them) gave us a wide path and waves, an their moving so slow we were passing them on our little 125. it was a very easy ride, Much easier than riding a small bike in Thailand. Even renting the bikes to visit all the ancient cites near Mandalay is a treat.

Having a bike and being on ur own, stopping where you want, when you want is so much better than traveling by bus.

we had a great time an wouldn't have traded it for a bus ride in a million years, never saw an accident as u see n Thailand and Laos along the roads

Tom ;so you traveled to Hsipaw in a car with a burmese driver, rushing to get home? LOL

i'd rather be in control

BTW when ur in Hispaw, see if Namsham is open, ( go ask at Mr Charles GH) it opened the day before we got there an it was a great ride up and gets no tourists,

80 kms, took us 4 hours up 5 back - going up it rained most of the time so the road was muddy in many places an 2 landslides coming back closed the road so we had to wait.

Tom; u can be a real wet rag at times

Dude I've travelled the road to Mu-se (not Hsipaw, I went from Mandalay to Mu-se in one day) and back twice now, and been up to Pyin Oo Lwin on a third occasion so I think I know what I'm talking about. The OP is right to be concerned and no, the switchbacks and dodging of China border bound trucks is not the best place to ride a scooter, and I can't see how it's "safer" than riding in Thailand. It requires a lot of skill and is not a walk in the park.

Riding the back roads is a good idea provided you're allowed to go there.

Yes, I too would rather be in control, but rather in a car than on a tiny little scooter.

On recent trips to Myanmar (all business related, but with a little bit of travel thrown in) I've never taken the bus apart from one sector from Yangon to Hpa-an, which I wouldn't want to do again by bus. I went everywhere by car with driver. It's just as flexible as driving yourself because as you would probably be aware, self-drive car rental has yet to take off in Myanmar.

Anyway, let the OP make up his own mind. You seem to have some kind of compulsion at forcing your opinion and/or experiences on others and thinking you are the only one who's right.

Edited by Tomtomtom69

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