Insulation Question

[tartempion]

I did research on the question of reducing warming up from the sun in a thai house but could not find a consensus.

Foam might be the best option but is too expensive, I was quoted 100k for a 150 sqm bungalow including 30sqm car port.

The remaining options are aluminium foil (Polynum) which seems to cost 30k for 180 sqm or "Stay Cool" which are 4m long mats 0.6m large containing some fiberglass, medium quality would cost 280 baht/piece coming to 21k.

Advice welcome on what's the best option.

Question preference to roof tiles insulation versus ceiling. For ceiling I would need 150 sqm for roof this would add to 180sqm. It would seem to me the "Stay Cool" mats are for ceiling, not roofs?

And what about the car port being integral part of the house, do I need to insulate this part as well?

The house mesures 120 sqm plus 30 for car port and covered stair.

I imagine if roof tile insulation to be preferred I would need to insualte the car port part also, the heat propagating above the ceiling. If ceiling insulation I guess the car port does not need to be insulated.

Thanks for comments and help.

Seems the builder will begin with the roof structure next week and he has no clue on this subject.

( I do not know much more....)

Edited September 23, 2006 by tartempion

[londonthai]

there is a thread which might interest you

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?sh...c=80187&hl=

[astral]

IME do not worry about the roof, concentrate on the ceiling.

My house has a fibre glass mat with a foil backing laid in the loft and this seems quite effective.

You can assist this by making sure the loft space is well ventilated.

I am told that a good large extractor fan can help.

If you look at old buildings in the region you will find they often have a sort of tower with lots of vents, somewhere along the roof.

This allows the hot air to rise and escape.

[ilyushin]

FYI Insulation Article

[Khun Jack]

Built our 2 story house five years ago.

Under the roof tiles heat reflective foil.

Over the gypsum ceiling in the bedrooms 10 cm iso blanket.

Walls built from isoblocks with airchamber 15 cm.

Many trees around the house and that is the most effective of all.

Result: we have airconditioners but seldom use it, only in the bedroom sometimes when the windows are closed to reduce the sound of the nightlife (meaning the more natural one).

[Firefan]

Can one also use the mentioned mats in a condo (top floor so can get rather hot) on top of the ceiling? Cheers!

[tutsiwarrior]

if for ceiling insulation check out the fiberglass 6" mats available at Home Pro...a bit pricy but very effective...my A/C has broken down and I can now sleep with just a fan.

If you got the vaulted roof (ie., no ceiling) of a typical thai house then my suggestion is no good.

Good to check out www.coolthaihouse.com and view the insulation discussion therein...

all the best...

[ilyushin]

Interesting site. I don't know the cost, but understand the science.

CoolCell

[chownah]

When using R values please be aware of the fact that there are two different systems of measurement and it is critical that you distinguish between which is being used:

"The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance. The SI units for thermal resistance are K·m²/W. R-values are commonly used to characterize thermal insulation materials in buildings. In this context, the unit is often written as RSI (for R-value Système International), and a specific value such as 5.53 may be indicated as RSI–5.53, but may also simply be written as R5.53. One tenth of an RSI is called a tog.

Some countries use a non-SI definition: R = ft²·°F·h/Btu. Values using this definition are often written as R–31.4 (corresponding to RSI–5.53 above), although this form is also used in countries where SI measures are more universally accepted (e.g., New Zealand).

The conversion between the two is 1 ft²·°F·h/Btu ≈ 0.1761 K·m²/W, or 1 K·m²/W ≈ 5.67446 ft²·°F·h/Btu"

This is from:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-value_%28insulation%29

The unit "1 ft²·°F·h/Btu" is used in the US while the unit " K·m²/W" is used in countries that use metric units (almost everywhere except the US).

Edited September 24, 2006 by chownah

[tutsiwarrior]

it's quite simple when you get down to it:

Q=UAdT

the Q being heat ingress or outgoing

the U being the combination of thermal coefficients related to the materials of construction, insulation, etc (be careful, you have inverse relationships all over the place)

the A being the area that you want to protect (roof, walls, floor, etc)

dT being the temperature differential between desired inside and ambient outside, usually...

iterate using the desired indoor temperature to obtain the required insulation thickness...

easy as pie...

I'm hungry...gimme a cheeseburger...

[tartempion]

Ok thanks,

I think I will do 2 things:

1) apply reflective foil under the roof tiles (3500 baht for 75 sqm at Home Mart)

2) lay down Stay Cool rolls containing fiberglass above the ceiling and make sure the attic gets vented.

[chownah]

My last post might be difficult to understand....the bottom line is that there are two different kinds of R-value; metric and US...so be sure which one they are telling you for comparisons. The conversion factor is 5.7.

Chownah

P.S. The same thing goes for U-values (two different units are used) but I don't know what the conversion factor is for it.

Chownah

[SamSipEt]

I like this thread!

I’m considering building the wall out of isoblocks with an insulation layer followed by wood cladding on the inside. The theory is that the blocks give structural strength and keep out the weather and bugs etc whilst the wooden walls on the inside may help to keep the place cool (by not storing lots of heat during the day) as well as being pleasing to the eye.

For the roof similar to tartempion - foil under the roof everywhere and insulate the ceiling in the air-conditioned bedrooms.

[phibunmike]

I like this thread!

Yes, very useful thread. Unfortunately my builder did not install insulation in my roof, and it gets rather warm inside. I need to retrofit, so I guess ceiling insulation is the only practical approach (I don't want to rip all the tiles off !)

[Cabana]

I like this thread!

I’m considering building the wall out of isoblocks with an insulation layer followed by wood cladding on the inside. The theory is that the blocks give structural strength and keep out the weather and bugs etc whilst the wooden walls on the inside may help to keep the place cool (by not storing lots of heat during the day) as well as being pleasing to the eye.

For the roof similar to tartempion - foil under the roof everywhere and insulate the ceiling in the air-conditioned bedrooms.

My worry would be that vermin/insects would live in the void between the wall and the cladding.

[SamSipEt]

I like this thread!

I’m considering building the wall out of isoblocks with an insulation layer followed by wood cladding on the inside. The theory is that the blocks give structural strength and keep out the weather and bugs etc whilst the wooden walls on the inside may help to keep the place cool (by not storing lots of heat during the day) as well as being pleasing to the eye.

For the roof similar to tartempion - foil under the roof everywhere and insulate the ceiling in the air-conditioned bedrooms.

My worry would be that vermin/insects would live in the void between the wall and the cladding.

Fair comment but if the insulation and the wood cladding are fixed hard up against the blocks (render first to give a smooth surface) then there won’t be much of gap so larger vermin will not be able to get in.

Ants and termites can (and do) get everywhere anyway whatever you do. All you can hope for is to keep them to a minimum.

[suiging]

Rule number one.................do not build without some form of vermin control. ( even then the bleeders will get in but a good under floor system helps )

[chownah]

I googled for "isoblock" and it seems that there are alot of things that are called this...can someone give me a link for the "isoblock"s that are referred to in this thread?

Chownah

[phibunmike]

Rule number one.................do not build without some form of vermin control. ( even then the bleeders will get in but a good under floor system helps )

What sort of system are you talking about ? I am ignorant on this subject

I have netting in the roof to prevent birds etc., but my floors are concrete.

Thanks,

Mike

[suiging]

Rule number one.................do not build without some form of vermin control. ( even then the bleeders will get in but a good under floor system helps )

What sort of system are you talking about ? I am ignorant on this subject

I have netting in the roof to prevent birds etc., but my floors are concrete.

Thanks,

Mike

Many of the more modern houses have a pipe system laid under the flooring where vermin control companies come on a regular basis and give your home a good gasing. Well worth the effort.

[astral]

Termites can be a real problem where there are hidden spaces,

under insulation

under parquet floors

behind and under builtin wardrobes.

They do not seem to be deterred by the company I rented to kill them,

not mentioning any names of course.