streboris Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I bought a 2nd hand Hilux Sport Rider. It has a problem in it's loosing water from the radiator. It drives about 80 - 150 km before the air con starts to get warm. Radiator then need top up of 2 litrers of water... temp guage goes to around 45% when it's hot. It seems to be boiling the water and blowing steam into the expansion tank... I bought it from a supposedly reputable dealer with 3 month warranty. Although they never actually supplied any written warranty. Their response is i need to keep topping up the water and its normal... refusing to do anything. Is there anything I can do to force the dealer to fix it? Im tempted to park it across the entrance to the dealership and leave it there till they agree to fix it! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMHO Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Have you tried offering them 10K Baht to take it back, so you can start over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weegee Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Park it over their Driveway, and they will fix alright !!....but not the way you expect them to.... Quit and go somewhere else and spend the money to fix it. Edited October 11, 2015 by weegee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurwait Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 PM Clare Quilty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurwait Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 http://www.kaidee.com/member/id-2012084/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratcatcher Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Take weegee's advice. If you park it outside the dealership they may just tow it away or worse.. If you did not get any kind of written warranty, you must accept some of the responsibility. Constantly topping up the water ,as they say, is pure BS. Take the truck to a smaller garage that handles rads and aircon, ask around your neighborhood. The problem may be quite simple. By dealing anymore with the con men that sold you the truck, will give you more stress. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenl Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 If there is no visible water leak you could have a blown head gasket.... I was thinking the same, but 2 liters every 100k or so would be a lot for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurwait Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 ^^^^ I don't think he has had it that long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billphillips Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 It's probably got an air lock in the system and just needs bleeding, it's not an expensive or difficult fix. It could also be a faulty thermostat, but unlikely because they are designed to fail in the open position. By the way ... modern vehicles should not have water in the cooling systems. Only coolant should be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary A Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Sounds like a head gasket. Fill the radiator full to the top (when cold) and start the engine then look into the radiator with a flashlight and if you see bubbles, it is likely the head gasket. Also check the oil to see if if the oil is white with the oil contaminated with water. That would likely mean a cracked block. The cause of either problem usually means that the engine was seriously run very hot, as in ran without water. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 When I first got it, I found the syphen hose in the expansion tank was wrong and not fitted. So I ordred new tank and hoses. Same problem I took it to local toyota and asked them to pressure test it, check the thermostat and fan and check for leaks, they said everything was normal... Drove 600km to bangkok having to put water every 100km Took it to a toyota agent in chon bury to try get new radiator cap. He pressure tested the system while I watched and found a leak... he filed the seal face on Radiator filler and this seamed to fix the leak. Pressure test for 10 mins, needle didn't move... I drove around pattaya chon bury and bangkok and nipped in every toyota agent that I passed trying to get new radiator cap. Finally found one friday, but didn't fix the problem... The high point of the cooling system is the radiator so I think shouldn't need bleeding. There's no water in the oil... theres no oil in the water. Water is rusty not foamy. The pressure test that I watched makes me think head gasket is ok, but it wouldn't rule out a cracked head... hope not It drives a lot further when its raining or the air is cooler, which makes me think its not crack in head or gasket. How easy should the fan turn by hand when the rad and engine are hot? It's a mechanical fan I jet washed the AC condensor to see if that helps. Could do with a drawing of the system so I can work it out more logically. Without just replacing everything... Im not sure what the mix should be for the coolant. Its a 1999 model and im struggling to find info. I think Probably combination of: Fan slipping too much Corrosion in radiator Damage and dirt in A/C condensor Bottom seal face in radiator filler not sealing, holding pressure Water only - boiling point too low Or cracked head or gasket Guys in garages have mentiond 'bypass' can anyone explain what this is? I thought the thermostst was a bypass valve, but they point at something different that im not sure what it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canthai55 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 16 year old truck with rusty water in rad - my guess is the rad is plugged. Pressure test will only show leaks. If the rad tubes are full of rust particules it will pressure test OK but you will not get the water circulation required to keep the engine cool. If it were mine I would flush - probably 3 or 4 times, bypassing the rad, and replace it. Along with a new thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stubuzz Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 The air con needs the clutch re- shimmed. Easy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 16 year old truck with rusty water in rad - my guess is the rad is plugged. Pressure test will only show leaks. If the rad tubes are full of rust particules it will pressure test OK but you will not get the water circulation required to keep the engine cool. If it were mine I would flush - probably 3 or 4 times, bypassing the rad, and replace it. Along with a new thermostat. Yeah I'm thinking along the same lines. The rust coating will dramatically reduce heat transfer too. I think the fan propably needs replacing too. Dunno if they can be refurbished. The AC condensor looks like its blocking the airflow too, so also probably worth replacing. I have no idea when the Timing belt was last replaced, so I think it would be wise to get that replaced... not sure if it's worth getting the head gasket replaced at the same time? The difficult part is getting anything done. I don't speak thai and my missus is a ****in nightmare as a translator... Not sure where to get it done either... my local toyota seems to be poo, but that could be just the wife's translations causing the problem Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinisaan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 16 year old truck with rusty water in rad - my guess is the rad is plugged. Pressure test will only show leaks. If the rad tubes are full of rust particules it will pressure test OK but you will not get the water circulation required to keep the engine cool. If it were mine I would flush - probably 3 or 4 times, bypassing the rad, and replace it. Along with a new thermostat. Yeah I'm thinking along the same lines. The rust coating will dramatically reduce heat transfer too.I think the fan propably needs replacing too. Dunno if they can be refurbished. The AC condensor looks like its blocking the airflow too, so also probably worth replacing. I have no idea when the Timing belt was last replaced, so I think it would be wise to get that replaced... not sure if it's worth getting the head gasket replaced at the same time? The difficult part is getting anything done. I don't speak thai and my missus is a ****in nightmare as a translator... Not sure where to get it done either... my local toyota seems to be poo, but that could be just the wife's translations causing the problem Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk I really don't understand that you don't even find the right garage to do the troubleshooting. If you're losing that much water, there must be a tube leaking, or the cylinder head gasket is done. Checking the thermostat is very easy.and all you need to check when you start your engine is to see if all tubes get hot. The radiator itself has two big tubes. If the thermostat wouldn't open, the one tube wouldn't get hot. It's that easy. The thermostat just cuts off the circulation until the engine has its usual temperature. Check the fan as well. It's very easy to take out the thermostat and drive it without it to see if the problem still exists. Please also check the airflow. A lot of dirt, or maybe a plastic bag in front of the radiator could also be an issue. If the engine's burning water through a faulty cylinder head gasket, which could easily be the case reading your "story", then you might look at some good money to get it fixed. Please watch this and good luck: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinisaan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Here's an easy way to check if it's your thermostat: Start the engine and touch both big hoses that go to and from the radiator, once the engine has warmed up. If one house doesn't it's the thermostat that doesn't open. Edited October 12, 2015 by lostinisaan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinisaan Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Sorry, just found this video by accident. Worth to watch it to understand some Technic. The "dude's" speech is already worth to watch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotsira Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) 16 year old truck with rusty water in rad - my guess is the rad is plugged. Pressure test will only show leaks. If the rad tubes are full of rust particules it will pressure test OK but you will not get the water circulation required to keep the engine cool. If it were mine I would flush - probably 3 or 4 times, bypassing the rad, and replace it. Along with a new thermostat. In addition to canthai55's advice in suspecting a blocked rad, you can also check this out by running the engine to full working temp, meaning the thermostat is open allowing full water circulation through the rad, both rad hoses should be the same temp. Then turn off the engine and feel across the whole rad core for any cold spots indicating no flow. Apposed to a good condition rad that will have an even temp across it's whole core. Be careful not to burn your hands as it will be a hot surface, but a quick touch will indicate if any cold spots are present. Edited October 13, 2015 by sotsira Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 My thinking after reading the thread is that you have several possible issues leading up to the fluid loss and that is usually what happens in these cases, it's seldom just one thing. It seems that you may have, as some have said, a blocked radiator as well as having a bad fan clutch, it should have a fair bit of consistent resistance when you spin it with your hand, if it doesn't it needs to be replaced and no they can't be repaired, just a waste of time, need to replace. Couple that with a partially clogged radiator and previously a leaking/weak cap and water was likely backing up and over flowing out the over flow to account for the fluid loss or you'd have noticed some fluid somewhere else by this time. look carefully at where the overflow hose runs out as there is definitely going to be some evidence of it over heating with water stains of rust color if that's the case, repair said items and have another try along with a new thermostat as well as it is also likely too damaged to be working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomthai Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Also have a close inspection around the water pump (top center pulley) there is a weep hole for water to escape that indicates water circulation pump seal failure. Because its hot and near fast spinning pulleys belts and fans the water could be escaping as a vapor and be very hard to detect. It may also explain why the system pressure tests ok. The seal might only be letting water past to the weep hole when the engine is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary A Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 It would be worth buying a couple cans of radiator sealant. It it doesn't work you are not out much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 The head was cracked. 18,000 baht for new head 22500 baht, fitted. Seems like a good job too! Fingers crossed. The guys that sold me the car have said they will give me 8000 towards the repairs. Better than nothing I suppose. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giddyup Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 The head was cracked. 18,000 baht for new head 22500 baht, fitted. Seems like a good job too! Fingers crossed. The guys that sold me the car have said they will give me 8000 towards the repairs. Better than nothing I suppose. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk You think they didn't know the head was cracked when they sold you the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Im sure they did. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giddyup Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Im sure they did. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Bought from a "supposedly" reputable dealer. Well you had the "supposedly" part right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 If the oil was clean that should be a red flag when shopping in a used dealer. But still if there was water in the oil or vice versa it'd be very hard to hide, always check the top of the oil filler cap that's where condensation gathers and there is almost always milky oil there if waters been in the oil or oil floating in the water if the opposite is cracked another thing is the crank case gets over filled so you driving it should have shown some of this at some point . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 There was no water in the oil... no oil in the water... The crack was between an exhaust port and a cooling water duct. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 There was no water in the oil... no oil in the water... The crack was between an exhaust port and a cooling water duct. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Well there was lot of smoke then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streboris Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 No smoke either Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 I see, it was one of those mysterious type leaks with no symptoms whatsoever? Yep........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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