irrigation set up

[kannot]

1 minute ago, Strange said:

 

One on the right is the kind I'm used to at home. The cheap polish one. The one in my pic is the REAL cheap one lol

yep I  think they call em Square D's  dont they

[Strange]

2 minutes ago, kannot said:

yep I  think they call em Square D's  dont they

 

Exactly. 

 

How much did that pressure tank cost & how much did it cost for the well to be drilled?

[kannot]

27 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Exactly. 

 

How much did that pressure tank cost & how much did it cost for the well to be drilled?

The 300 litre was about 30k baht Grundfos 10  year guarantee (  i dont want any problems) bought direct thru Grundfos in BKK we  got some discount off that, the smaller one is 200 litres  but I dont remember the exact price, the well is a long story but it was 150k, we ended up with 2  wells for that price by sheer chance as the first well according to the drillers didnt really produce enough for them the second one was  much better but  both are useable, the first lower yield 500-1000lit hour you do have to be a bit careful. One is 80 metres  deep the other is 55 metres deep (  6000 lit hour), both have a 1hp Franklin motored Super  hurricane  pump ( hybrid) they use 1.5mm 4  core   cable, no problems in 2  years so far. Water  quality is  excellent just the luck of rock formations round here I guess, we had it  fully tested in BKK that cost us 5k some govt lab?

Edited December 15, 2016 by kannot

[Strange]

10 minutes ago, kannot said:

the well is a long story but it was 150k, we ended up with 2  wells for that price by sheer chance as the first well according to the drillers didnt really produce enough for them the second one was  much better but  both are useable,

 

So it was an agree price of 150K and a guaranteed flow rate? First one didn't produce enough so they had to drill another? Gawd thats expensive. I had a 4" 200' well drilled in Florida 2 years ago with a steel case for $3500. Installed basically the exact same system that you have now. No idea about Thai price for a well that deep as I've only been around shallow 25m +/- wells.

 

14 minutes ago, kannot said:

we had it  fully tested in BKK that cost us 5k some govt lab?

 

This water sample, did you send it by post? Or did they come and get it themselves? How long did the result take? 

 

Is there an option for more detailed testing? Or was there only 1 option? Say you had a chemical smell, or calcium looking stuff in the water, is there a more comprehensive test available to pinpoint contaminates? 

 

I just saved your pic for future reference. Ill be using that in the future for sure. Ive been looking for something like that. 

 

[kannot]

8 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

So it was an agree price of 150K and a guaranteed flow rate? First one didn't produce enough so they had to drill another? Gawd thats expensive. I had a 4" 200' well drilled in Florida 2 years ago with a steel case for $3500. Installed basically the exact same system that you have now. No idea about Thai price for a well that deep as I've only been around shallow 25m +/- wells.

 

 

This water sample, did you send it by post? Or did they come and get it themselves? How long did the result take? 

 

Is there an option for more detailed testing? Or was there only 1 option? Say you had a chemical smell, or calcium looking stuff in the water, is there a more comprehensive test available to pinpoint contaminates? 

 

I just saved your pic for future reference. Ill be using that in the future for sure. Ive been looking for something like that. 

 

Yes  wells  round here  are EXPENSIVE they had to go thru a  lot of rock....my land is  very stony and the sub sediments are rock! On top of  all that due to drought in Thailand the last few  years MORE  wells are being drilled and prices have shot up,  the well drillers are  REALLY  busy

Pranburi dam by me  has been very  low and hasnt  really fully recovered yet from the last few years lack of rainfall.

Yes it was  guaranteed minimum of 1000  lit an hour or  no pay.

My Wife  took the water sample in to them as she lives in BKK,off hand it was  about 3  weeks for the result which I was VERY  happy  with.

They do offer more extensive   testing but i  just wanted a "general" idea of the quality

The  wells are 6  inch bore with 4  inch plastic  casing drop pipe  screwed and glued together with stainless screws ( my screws not theirs and also my extra strong glue) 1.5  inch pipe 13.5  bar

Edited December 15, 2016 by kannot

[CGW]

^ That's a nice set up kannot, personally I would take the water from the deepwell back to a holding tank then pump into the system with a "cheaper" pump just to save wear and tear on the submersible.

 

The water sample is good, NTU excellent, acidity a little high but not that bad, sure you have installed good quality stainless fittings throughout the house as the water will eat up any "cheap" fittings - found that out the hard way!

 

The pressure vessel looks to be very good quality and well worth the extra cost, one of the reasons I never installed a pressure tank in my present house is I didn't like the quality of the vessels I was looking at! & with my luck!! didn't want to be near it If it decided to fail!

[kannot]

48 minutes ago, CGW said:

^ That's a nice set up kannot, personally I would take the water from the deepwell back to a holding tank then pump into the system with a "cheaper" pump just to save wear and tear on the submersible.

 

The water sample is good, NTU excellent, acidity a little high but not that bad, sure you have installed good quality stainless fittings throughout the house as the water will eat up any "cheap" fittings - found that out the hard way!

 

The pressure vessel looks to be very good quality and well worth the extra cost, one of the reasons I never installed a pressure tank in my present house is I didn't like the quality of the vessels I was looking at! & with my luck!! didn't want to be near it If it decided to fail!

Yep  I  hear what youre  saying ...but for me .............first is  holding tank will need maintenance, keeping clean, maybe some algae  will grow  in it who knows +  all the associated   plumbing  gubbins, I dont like pipes  open to the sun here at all, none of  mine are anywhere , water  will get warmer in a tank, then theres "another  pump" if  that goes wrong etc. etc trying to keep things to a minimum, also this water comes from 100+ metres away to the two  houses and travels underground at 1metre  deep which should  cool it down also.....I dont like warm water much, horse for courses. Getting the submersible out isnt that much of a problem, i designed the building it  sits  in with an easily detachable roof, can have it  off in 10 minutes.......so to speak

Heres  the trench with 1.5  inch hdpe pipe  in and also the 10mm2   electric cable   in ldpe  trunking

Edited December 16, 2016 by kannot

[CGW]

^ I figured you must have a way of getting the submersible in and out easily, doesn't look like it, so well done, good job.

I put my water into a small stainless tank, I dont like to store water, prefer it to be changed out frequently, I have painted the tank black to help it heat up! Horses for courses!

[kannot]

Been out  shopping, found a  regulator pressure control unit at Global house, bit  pricey 2k baht  but  "all in one" less mucking about. Heres  both the pump and the controller.............it says if  the water isnt  clean to use a filter.......just wondering " how  much of a  filter? have go the normal Thai plastic type but the  holes are a bit large, just wondering how  long itll survive........... now?? what are the two brass screws  for?  bleeding out air?

160  lit max per  minute is  enough for me 1.5hp 7.5a

[kannot]

9 minutes ago, CGW said:

^ I figured you must have a way of getting the submersible in and out easily, doesn't look like it, so well done, good job.

I put my water into a small stainless tank, I dont like to store water, prefer it to be changed out frequently, I have painted the tank black to help it heat up! Horses for courses!

hahahahaah  free hot water eh.................careful you dont scald  yer "tackle".....of course what you should  have done is paint the top half  white and the bottom half  black for extra  circulation....maybe then throw ina  couple of tea bags,hey presto worlds  biggest tea  maker

Edited December 16, 2016 by kannot

[CGW]

^ The water gets pretty cool in Isarn this time of year, 8k w heater gets it OK ish!

The top slotted brass plug on the pump is for bleeding, don't know what the one on the side is for, not seen that before!! and i have seen some pumps in my time.............

Edited December 16, 2016 by CGW

[Strange]

On paper the pump looks capable. How much was the pump? Can you post the sticker on the pump? As far as a filter goes, I would not worry about it. Its fine for watering grass. 

 

What I'm really concerned about is that "regulator pressure control" unit you have. Im not sure what it does. Looks like a cheapie. Not sure how it works. 

 

Can post pics of sticker & overview how it works? 

[Strange]

The screws you illustrated are going to have something to do with maintaining the pumps prime. 

[kannot]

2 hours ago, Strange said:

On paper the pump looks capable. How much was the pump? Can you post the sticker on the pump? As far as a filter goes, I would not worry about it. Its fine for watering grass. 

 

What I'm really concerned about is that "regulator pressure control" unit you have. Im not sure what it does. Looks like a cheapie. Not sure how it works. 

 

Can post pics of sticker & overview how it works? 

Its the combined pressure  switch and  pressure  gauge inside is the cheap type  of pressure  gauge (adjustable) heres   a pic..by sticker on the  pump do you mean the ratings for it? attached anyway 8500 baht

Think I can get away with a 3/4  inch pressure  relief  valve..............difficult  to find a   1 inch unless you know somewhere

Edited December 16, 2016 by kannot

[kannot]

http://www.italtecnica.com/index.php?ip=4&cat=1&prd=6&l=2

Link to  what it  is 

[kannot]

Reading up  on this BRIO 2000 it  works  differently to a pressure  switch, it  only has a  cut IN feature 

It starts the electric pump after a pressure decrease (taps opening) and stops it when the fluid flow interrupts at the maximum pressure level of the electric pump (taps closing)  eeeeeeeeeek that could be 10bar?? Although I expect this  pump can probably only  reach about 50-60psi max anyway (4bar)

 

http://www.italtecnica.com/pdf.php?prd=6

Edited December 16, 2016 by kannot

[Strange]

1 hour ago, kannot said:

Reading up  on this BRIO 2000 it  works  differently to a pressure  switch, it  only has a  cut IN feature 

It starts the electric pump after a pressure decrease (taps opening) and stops it when the fluid flow interrupts at the maximum pressure level of the electric pump (taps closing)  eeeeeeeeeek that could be 10bar?? Although I expect this  pump can probably only  reach about 50-60psi max anyway (4bar)

 

http://www.italtecnica.com/pdf.php?prd=6

 

lol

 

I was reading up on the english version of your BRIO and thought the same thing. IT appears to be the same kind of thing that the Hitachi constant pressure pumps (without a pressure tank) use. 

 

It looks like it cuts in when it senses a pressure drop (open the tap), then cuts out due to a flow drop (close the tap) with a  max pressure cutout of 10 Bar (not adjustable), and also has some kind of feature that will cut out if it thinks the pump is running dry. Or something lol. It definitely operates different than a pressure switch and 10 bar is like 145 psi - a bit much.

 

In other words - kinda pointless it seems for your setup. The pressure switches that you have or the cheapie that I showed only sense pressure, the water does not flow through them, so no worries about filters or clogging. So there is that too.

 

3 hours ago, kannot said:

Think I can get away with a 3/4  inch pressure  relief  valve..............difficult  to find a   1 inch unless you know somewhere

 

Did you find any relief valves at Global or anything? I know you can find some online from aliexpress but thats 2-3 weeks shipping time. Thats what I would do.

 

1 hour ago, kannot said:

Although I expect this  pump can probably only  reach about 50-60psi max anyway (4bar)

 

Maybe, and if thats the case then your sprinklers will operate just fine at 50-60 psi. The wells in the states that I did were 40 cut in and 60 cut out. Sprinklers, showers, toilets, etc... all operated just fine in that pressure range. 

 

Im not sure this is the case with your pump. If its even a little oversized (and thats a good thing) then its very likely that the pressure can build over 60 psi over time. How long of a timeframe I don't know.

[kannot]

38 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

lol

 

I was reading up on the english version of your BRIO and thought the same thing. IT appears to be the same kind of thing that the Hitachi constant pressure pumps (without a pressure tank) use. 

 

It looks like it cuts in when it senses a pressure drop (open the tap), then cuts out due to a flow drop (close the tap) with a  max pressure cutout of 10 Bar (not adjustable), and also has some kind of feature that will cut out if it thinks the pump is running dry. Or something lol. It definitely operates different than a pressure switch and 10 bar is like 145 psi - a bit much.

 

In other words - kinda pointless it seems for your setup. The pressure switches that you have or the cheapie that I showed only sense pressure, the water does not flow through them, so no worries about filters or clogging. So there is that too.

 

 

Did you find any relief valves at Global or anything? I know you can find some online from aliexpress but thats 2-3 weeks shipping time. Thats what I would do.

 

 

Maybe, and if thats the case then your sprinklers will operate just fine at 50-60 psi. The wells in the states that I did were 40 cut in and 60 cut out. Sprinklers, showers, toilets, etc... all operated just fine in that pressure range. 

 

Im not sure this is the case with your pump. If its even a little oversized (and thats a good thing) then its very likely that the pressure can build over 60 psi over time. How long of a timeframe I don't know.

aha.....  BUT the pump has  an absolute max  total head in metres of 47 and the plate on it says 22-46 this  equates to about 65psi "max" the pump wont go higher than this sooooooo  itll never  reach  more  than 65psi.in the system?.......I turn on the  pump, pressure  builds to its max 65psi  I assume brio  can sense  when pressure no longer increases in the system and turns  off the pump, i  open  some sprinklers it  falls to lets say i set this thing at 2  bar 29psi and then  when pressure drops  to 2  bar it turns  on the pump till the pump reaches its own maximum

( whatever  type  of  pump all will be different but  most seem to hover round 55-60) then  turns  off again.

 

Now  how  do you attach a pressure  gauge if  i  go  back to the system u  mention as I havent seen any  adapters to do this, my well systems  use a  nice manifold where everything has its place

 

No relief  valves at Global, I got all mine in the UK Im looking for a 5  bar 72  psi which Ive found  ( but surely  if  pumps maximum pressure is 65 psi then a 4  bar would be enough as it  will never get the pressure up high enough to open a 5  bar?  

Might have to order from England and get a friend to either  post or deliver it when they come,..............had to do this for a  few  parts inc  stainless 1.25  inch manifold.

If anyone knows any stockist in Thailand let me know..this  type in the link  although I have seen some with built  in pressure  gauges also

http://www.altecnic.co.uk/plumbing-heating/safety-relief-valves/

[Strange]

17 minutes ago, kannot said:

BUT the pump has  an absolute max  total head in metres of 47 and the plate on it says 22-46 this  equates to about 65psi "max" the pump wont go higher than this sooooooo  itll never  reach  more  than 65psi.in the system?.

 

Honestly, usually these things are max "Operating" pressure. Either a safe range or a capability range. There is nothing on or in the pump to limit pressure & thats the problem with these things. Sometimes they are written in a way that means at such & such "head" and such & such "distance" etc. they are "capable" of a "max" psi of "bla"

 

In other words, I wouldn't depend on what the plate says as a "max psi" as its not a pump limit, its operational limit. It can very much overpressure. Centrifugal pumps are not as bad as submersible pumps, but the danger is still there, let alone you want a stable pressure. 

 

37 minutes ago, kannot said:

I turn on the  pump, pressure  builds to its max 65psi  I assume brio  can sense  when pressure no longer increases in the system and turns  off the pump,

 

What I read on your instruction manual what that the Brio has a minimum pressure sensitivity only. Set that at 2 bar. After that, it senses FLOW. So it keeps the system charged to 2 bar, open a tap, it senses a flow, turns the pump on, close the tap, FLOW stops and the pump shuts off. It does not sense a max pressure. Its not capable. Your pump has no pressure limit, its not capable either. So I wouldn't depend on this as it works different. 

[Strange]

50 minutes ago, kannot said:

Now  how  do you attach a pressure  gauge if  i  go  back to the system u  mention as I havent seen any  adapters to do this, my well systems  use a  nice manifold where everything has its place

 

Staying in line with a cheapie system, I don't see why you would need a manifold. You can buy PVC "T" fittings with 1/2" pipe thread nipples and thread in a pressure gauge anywhere in the system you want. Sold everywhere and just as good as a manifold for this setup. 

 

Something like:

 

[kannot]

2 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Staying in line with a cheapie system, I don't see why you would need a manifold. You can buy PVC "T" fittings with 1/2" pipe thread nipples and thread in a pressure gauge anywhere in the system you want. Sold everywhere and just as good as a manifold for this setup. 

 

Something like:

 

ive never seen  one ill go have a look tomorrow thanks.............on my way to take back the brio :-(      still struggling with where to get relief valve here

[Strange]

13 minutes ago, kannot said:

ive never seen  one ill go have a look tomorrow thanks.............on my way to take back the brio :-(      still struggling with where to get relief valve here

 

Global is guaranteed to have it. Local hardware stores (mom & pop) will have it for sure too. Same same the gauge. 

[Strange]

There has got to be a place to locally get the relief valve. Totally common in just about everything to do with water & air. 

[kannot]

2 minutes ago, Strange said:

There has got to be a place to locally get the relief valve. Totally common in just about everything to do with water & air. 

ill have  to  take  a photo  with  me..............are  they  like  the one  ive shown or  different  loooking?

[Strange]

2 hours ago, kannot said:

ive never seen  one ill go have a look tomorrow thanks.............on my way to take back the brio :-(      still struggling with where to get relief valve here

 

2 hours ago, kannot said:

ill have  to  take  a photo  with  me..............are  they  like  the one  ive shown or  different  loooking?

 

OK, I have been re-reading this thread, looking at your pump and what you need it to do and I think the relief valves you picture and I picture are not going to work very well. They are more of a pop-off release safety thing rather than an actual regulator meant to bypass continually non-stop. Its probably gonna cause pulsation & other weirdness. 

 

IMO if you can take the Brio back and get the 2000 baht, put that 2000 baht towards a non-code bypass valve. A real one. With this, you can run 5 sprinklers or 30 and not have to worry about using a pressure switch to "Control" anything. This valve will work as a "regulator" and its adjustable from 1 - 300 psi. The "Continuous Bypass Relief" and "Pressure Regulation" in the "Applications" part of the link are the key points. 

 

They are expensive though. But worth it imho. 

 

I found a thailand company that has good stuff on thier website:

 

http://www.epmc.co.th/Safety Valves/kunkle.html

 

And the valve that I think would work well:

 

http://www.epmc.co.th/Safety Valves/pdfs/Kunkle Model 19 - 20 Safety Relief Valve.pdf

 

[Strange]

Also, that PVC "T" fitting with the little threaded nipple you can screw in any pressure switch into the threaded nipple as a port to measure from. No need a manifold. You can use the pressure switch as a very simple way to cut out the pump due to over pressure. For the sake of safety & good advice, I would recommend it.

 

The cheapie switch I pictured just switches the "L" part of power and screws into the port. So you would have the bypass valve I mentioned above doing all the work of regulating your pressure, and you would have a secondary pressure switch to kick the pump off in an overpressure emergency. Double safety. 

 

Now, with all that said, you can easily setup everything, pump, pressure gauges, etc, and leave yourself a capped access point on your PVC setup. Try running your pump and sprinklers without the bypass regulator and very closely watch your pressure gauge. If the pressure is acceptable without the bypass regulator, and it does not climb over time, then you might not need it. Meaning you could save the cash as that valve is pricey. 

 

However, I would imagine you are going to need it if you want to have the functionality of running either 10-20-30 sprinklers. Nothing saying you can't try it without the bypass valve running different combos of sprinklers and closely watching your pressure over time. 

[kannot]

4 hours ago, Strange said:

 

 

OK, I have been re-reading this thread, looking at your pump and what you need it to do and I think the relief valves you picture and I picture are not going to work very well. They are more of a pop-off release safety thing rather than an actual regulator meant to bypass continually non-stop. Its probably gonna cause pulsation & other weirdness. 

 

IMO if you can take the Brio back and get the 2000 baht, put that 2000 baht towards a non-code bypass valve. A real one. With this, you can run 5 sprinklers or 30 and not have to worry about using a pressure switch to "Control" anything. This valve will work as a "regulator" and its adjustable from 1 - 300 psi. The "Continuous Bypass Relief" and "Pressure Regulation" in the "Applications" part of the link are the key points. 

 

They are expensive though. But worth it imho. 

 

I found a thailand company that has good stuff on thier website:

 

http://www.epmc.co.th/Safety Valves/kunkle.html

 

And the valve that I think would work well:

 

http://www.epmc.co.th/Safety Valves/pdfs/Kunkle Model 19 - 20 Safety Relief Valve.pdf

 

I  like the  look of that  valve  type  BUT which "exact" one do I need the model 20 as in your photo whose  range is 1-300 psi 

ie  this  one  • Model 20-D Variation 05: 50 to 150 psig spring range 

If you can tell me the EXACT one Ill get my Wife to give them a  call for price.............. saw U.S  price is  $239 so about 10,000 baht

Thanks for your time by the way

Model Descriptions Model 19: All bronze, equipped with handwheel for easy adjustment within spring ranges.

Model 19M: Same as model 19 except SS trim (seat and disc). Available 21/2" and 3" only. For higher pressure settings or severe applications.

Model 20: All bronze, with pressure-tight cap. Suitable for maximum back pressure of 50 psig.1

Model 20M: Same as model 20 except SS trim. Available in 21/2" and 3" only (seat and disc). For higher pressure settings or severe applications. Maximum back pressure of 50 psig.1

Model 20P: Same as model 20 except with packed lift lever. Suitable for maximum back pressure of 50 psig.

Model 20MP: Same as model 20M except with packed lift lever. Maximum back pressure of 50 psig.1 Model 200A: Special non-chattering design. Recommended for light oils and continuous by-pass or pressure regulation. UL842 listed for light oil service. Available 3/4" to 11/2" sizes. Female NPT connections only. Model 200H: Same as model 20. UL842 listed for use with fuel oils. Available 3/4" to 2" sizes.

Edited December 16, 2016 by kannot

[kannot]

4 hours ago, Strange said:

Also, that PVC "T" fitting with the little threaded nipple you can screw in any pressure switch into the threaded nipple as a port to measure from. No need a manifold. You can use the pressure switch as a very simple way to cut out the pump due to over pressure. For the sake of safety & good advice, I would recommend it.

 

The cheapie switch I pictured just switches the "L" part of power and screws into the port. So you would have the bypass valve I mentioned above doing all the work of regulating your pressure, and you would have a secondary pressure switch to kick the pump off in an overpressure emergency. Double safety. 

 

Now, with all that said, you can easily setup everything, pump, pressure gauges, etc, and leave yourself a capped access point on your PVC setup. Try running your pump and sprinklers without the bypass regulator and very closely watch your pressure gauge. If the pressure is acceptable without the bypass regulator, and it does not climb over time, then you might not need it. Meaning you could save the cash as that valve is pricey. 

 

However, I would imagine you are going to need it if you want to have the functionality of running either 10-20-30 sprinklers. Nothing saying you can't try it without the bypass valve running different combos of sprinklers and closely watching your pressure over time. 

Think what Ill do is  as a  test try it without the pricey relief  valve  FIRST and see what  happens, there is  also the scenario (daily) of all sprinklers  will be off and some hand watering by a  hose which Il have to take into account.

So the pressure SWITCH is wired  normally? ( saw you mention cheap switch "L" connection) ie the square D type and  Ill set  cut  off at about 60psi my  only concern then would be how many times it  turns the pump off on though manufacturer says 50 times a  day apparently.

Until I get it  running I  guess I wont know how this  pump  will cope or what pressures  it will produce as my sprinkler system has a fair  few  elbows and joints  all of which along with length  ( friction loss) will lower psi anyway meaning it might never  reach too high a  pressure anyway.

[Strange]

Sorry didn't think to include this lol

 

Either one of these will work, seems same except one has a hand wheel to turn, and the other has a nut thing to turn. I would go for the Model 19. 

 

3 hours ago, kannot said:

Model Descriptions Model 19: All bronze, equipped with handwheel for easy adjustment within spring ranges.

 

3 hours ago, kannot said:

Model 20: All bronze, with pressure-tight cap. Suitable for maximum back pressure of 50 psig.1

 

Model 20 says it can be used in back pressure situations but you won't have any back pressure to speak of really. 

 

And in whatever size - 1" 3/4" Etc...

 

Also, when you wife calls have her ask if they have a Thai manufactured replacement. The one I linked to is imported I believe. 

Edited December 17, 2016 by Strange

[Strange]

4 hours ago, kannot said:

Think what Ill do is  as a  test try it without the pricey relief  valve  FIRST and see what  happens, there is  also the scenario (daily) of all sprinklers  will be off and some hand watering by a  hose which Il have to take into account.

So the pressure SWITCH is wired  normally? ( saw you mention cheap switch "L" connection) ie the square D type and  Ill set  cut  off at about 60psi my  only concern then would be how many times it  turns the pump off on though manufacturer says 50 times a  day apparently.

Until I get it  running I  guess I wont know how this  pump  will cope or what pressures  it will produce as my sprinkler system has a fair  few  elbows and joints  all of which along with length  ( friction loss) will lower psi anyway meaning it might never  reach too high a  pressure anyway.

 

Yep the pressure switch is wired completely normal. If using your switches, wire it completely normal. 

 

The problem is like you say, if you don't use a good bypass regulator, the switch is likely going to short-cycle like a bastard causing all kinds of wear, pulsation, and weirdness. 

 

Might not need the bypass for all 30 sprinklers, maybe not for 10 sprinklers, but probably will with a hose. 

 

If you are going to try it without the bypass, I would DEFINITELY install the pressure switch for testing to see what you can get away with. 10-20-30 sprinklers, a hose, etc... You would install it after the pump but before you would have your provision for the bypass. Wire it exactly the same as you would normally do. 

 

Set it cut out at 60 PSI (and by doing so will cut-in at 40 psi) or whatever you think the maximum safe operating range will be, and test. I would use it for safety, to cut out the pump from going crazy (during testing) if it turns out to generate a lot more pressure than expected. I would not depend on the switch to do any "work" or to regulate anything. 

 

5 hours ago, kannot said:

$239 so about 10,000 baht

 

Yep expensive, but worth it. That little gem is whats gonna make the whole thing work from just a single garden hose to 30 sprinklers. 

 

Man I know they are going to have a Thai made valve somewhere they are completely common things.