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TS79

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Posts posted by TS79

  1. The easy way is to wire the fan to the light switch. But I am sure a timer switch is available from electric shops (may have to order however).

    That is how I have done it on my other bathroom but (obviously) as soon as you turn off the lights then the fan stops. I really wanted the fan to run on for some time to take away the moisture from after using the shower and also to not have to remember to turn it off.

    I guess I could put a little timer coil next to the fan which would work well but then to start the fan the next time I need it I would have to turn the wall switch to the off position and then back to the on position to reset the timer (this way would also leave the wiring live up to the timer).

    I'm pretty sure I have seen light-switches in guest-houses / hotels stairways that have a spring return button that with a push turn the lights on, then auto-off after a pre-set time.

    A motion sensor would work but would turn the fan on every time someones goes into the bathroom when not using the shower.

    Thanks for the replies, I just thought someone my have already bought something so I didn't have to try to explain what I want in a shop.

  2. Is there such a device available on the Thai market that fits into a regular modular light switch arrangement that with one push will turn a device (e.g lights / fan) for say a set time of 30 mins and then turn it off automatically?

    If not what would be the best way to achieve automatic cutout.

  3. Great thanks. I will give it a try over the next few days to see what (if any) improvements I can find. I'm now on a mission to get both to 100% as yours is. smile.png

    So spent an hour on the roof today trying to align and optimise the dish. I had some success in getting the BER down from 40,000E-7 to 2500E-7 but could not get it lower than this (see before and after photo). One thing I noticed was that when I was rotating the dish on the horizontal (left to right) is that the signal quality was (how can I say) moving from left with poor signal, going further right getting strong, further right again weaker, further right again stronger and finally further right even more was very poor. i.e. it had two stronger parts with a weak part in the middle !!

    Rotating the LNB helped a little to improve the quality but there was no effects from moving the LNB closer / farther away to the dish.

    I then noticed that the dish was pointing almost directly in line with a power pole just outside the boundary of our house (see pic) although this pole is quite narrow is it possible that it could be blocking the signal in the middle of the two stronger parts of the dish rotation or is it too narrow for this? If this could be the problem then it looks like I need to relocate the dish to the other side of the house and try again.

    What do you think satellite guru's?

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  4. So what advice would u suggest to try and tweek the dish a little bit for a signal that right now is showing the following levels (pic attached) weather is pretty good, little bit of cloud cover:

    True Visions HD Box

    Signal Strength is maxed out at 100% (255)

    Signal Quality is right at the bottom of the scale with a BER fluctuating around the 30000.0E-7 level.

    Would the procedure be something like, go left tiny bit and see if signal strength remains 100% but the quality increases? If not then go right a little bit, up, down etc. How to go about adjusting the LNB?

    The picture is normally fine except any small showers has a detrimental effect. Its a great "get the washing" in warning though as an earlier poster said.

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    • Like 1
  5. Thanks TS79 i was going to buy my own recorder rather than pay 4,780 to Truevisions. What model did you get/price? Apart from having to be eSATA will any model work.

    As long as its eSATA then it will work. I actually bought a regular sata internal HDD (1Tb) and a little docking station which I can plug in 2 x sata drives which has eSATA cable and also USB if I want to connect to my laptop.

    The 1TB is Hitachi and was 2100 baht, the little dock was 900 baht. Easy to tuck away behind the TV.

    Cheers,

    T.

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  6. In my experience of Thai Dish Installations - you would be better off getting someone who was competent in aligning and peaking your current dish with a decent signal meter rather than having Somchai 1 watching the TV while Somchai 2 moves it left a bit right a bit up a bit down a bit - Bernie the Bolt!

    It is bizarre that a company as big as TRUE do not have their installation contractors using signal strength meters. It would probably reduce the amount of pi$$ed off customer calls to their call centre if they did and would probably save installation time between Somchai 1 and 2 shouting back and forth.

    On a side note, is it worth installing an inline amplifier in the cable between LNB and decoder to boost up the signal?

  7. I'm using it with my own 1Tb HDD. 3 months free PVR to check it out.

    Is quite a nice system from what I've seen in the couple of weeks of using it.

    Edit - The HDD they will supply is a very pricey 500Gb, much much cheaper to buy your own but beware a USB HDD doesn't work, it needs to be eSATA.

  8. It just takes 1 man to solve the crisis and that is the main snake himself! Either he comes back to face justice or he just backs off, enjoys his wealth and never to be heard from again.

    Problem of course is that with a moral bankrupt society where people sell their votes for a couple of Baht and where people think corruption is ok, it's just a matter of time before we have a next crisis.

    +1

  9. I absolutely HATE those dam_n pumps they are NOT quiet they are annoying as hell ......... Get one of those huge water vat looking things , they add the pressure you need and are a nice supply of water if the main shuts down for a while ..... I cant stress strongly enough how much I HATE those annoying little pumps. do they work ? yes .......... on off on off on off click click buzz buzz every time you use the water it's click on and click off they are the most annying thing I have ever had in my life and yes if the main goes out they run until the burn out saftey switch shuts it down.

    And trust me it's not because the pump was improperly pressurised or the pressure tank not correctly inflated , they are just annoying , get a glass of water it's click click , flush the toliet it's click click buzzzzzzzzzz , ect , all day all night every time you use the water 24\7 365 days a year.

    If I can go to my grave helping just one person avoid one of those pumps I will die a happy man !

    He hates the Grundfos pump even though he hasn't used a Grundfos pump. What a quality and useful reply from him. One of the reasons why I rarely post on here because of the flames that come as a result of trying to help someone.

    Obviously it depends on how the pump is plumbed in. If there is no buffer / pressure tank then of course the pump will run as soon as you open the tap, however If you design the system well then the pump will only operate when needed. I have my pump connected to a 500 litre pressure tank and water filter so the pump runs for 4 minutes 3 or 4 times a day (dependent on water useage) when the pressure in the system drops to 2 bar.

    If the OP doesn't want an ugly pump and pressure tank on display and he could fit a pump on the line going directly to the problem shower then the pump would only run when that shower is used.

    There is loads of pump threads on here. I am just stating, along with many others that the Grundfos brand of pump is a superior brand to most of the crap that is available.

    • Like 1
  10. Front Loader Machine is the way to go. Modern washing machines use so little water these days that electricity to heat up the wash cycles is minimal.

    Electricity cost is less that 0.5 kW/hr per load, i.e about 2 baht a load.

  11. I actually have this LNB installed on my current dish:

    http://www.satellite...?products_id=86

    However, after reading a few posts on the satellite forums it made sense that investing in a larger dish was a better option that the LNB upgrade. Is it possible to buy larger solid Ku dish in Thailand?

    yes at moment can get 90cm or 120 cm http://www.9sats.com...at=50.52&id=156

    follow the link they have in stock

    Hi, just trying to understand something...I too have issues with rain-fade on my standard True Vision dish and would like to get a larger dish to reduce the rain-fade.

    The link you post to the 90 / 120cm diameter dish, i see this is an offset dish so am I right to assume that all of the signal received by the dish will not be focussed onto the LNB and thus not maximumising the potential of the increased size of dish? Or is the difference in signal received minimal between the offset dish and a dish where the LNB is mounted in the centre?

    The standard True dish is 75cm, I dunno of this logic is correct but if I were to assume the dish was flat then it would have an area of 0.44m2, a 120cm dish would have an area of 1.13m2 so effectively more than double the surface area to receive a signal? Then an offset 120cm dish would still be receiving a lot more signal strength?

    Go easy on me, I'm just trying to understand the differences of offset / centre and larger dishes to how signal strength is effected.

    T.

    • Like 1
  12. “Cleanliness is the first impression that will make the image of our province look good. Trash belongs in the bin, not on the street or elsewhere,” V/Gov Sommai added.

    Agreed litter doesn't look good and is a pet peev of mine when anyone just drops it on the street, but isn't it the chaos at Phuket Airport immigration followed swiftly with a barrage of taxi touts the first impressions 99.9% of tourists get?

    • Like 1
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