waters

On 10/28/2022 at 10:04 AM, lopburi3 said:

A 4 stage filter at 4 and 1/2 times the cost of this 6 stage filter?  Guess it is all in the name.

https://www.google.com/aclk

@lopburi3 - understood, and you're a 'fountain' of knowledge here in the forums - so thanks for taking the time to reply.

Our problem is space. We live in a condo in central Bangkok - and there might be enough room under our sink for the unit you've linked to - but I think not. We'll double check. The Philips unit (which has a small tank), and other tankless RO systems take up a fraction of the space. We're a household of three - two adults and one child - and we know roughly how much drinking water we consume each day - and unit that produces somewhat less water should be fine.

Our other option is to install a larger system on the other side of the wall - behind the sink, where our bathroom is - and then run the tap through the wall and out over the sink.  In this case we'd have a large RO unit attached to the wall in our bathroom (no idea where we'd place the tank) - and while I'm not foolish enough to believe entirely in form over function, there is also an aesthetic dimension. Although of course not if the 4 stage Philips unit is less safe that a 6 stage filter for Bangkok / condo tap water?

Thanks again ????

On 10/28/2022 at 9:54 AM, unheard said:

I've used this lab: https://www.testtech.co.th/th

 

@unheard - thanks!

Philips have a new model available in Thailand - an RO system that includes re-mineralization, and a tank, in a combined under-the-counter form factor. It's so new (I think) that the Philips page doesn't have a photo yet, although HomePro does...

https://www.philips.co.th/c-p/AUT7000_67/aquashield-under-the-sink-water-purifier
https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1202045
 

We'll go and take a look at HomePro. My first thought is  - what's the tank made of? Probably not too serious an issue, but if it's plastic, I'd be worried about leached chemicals from the plastic tank (as opposed to the steel tanks in the 'typical' RO systems shown here and elsewhere).

On 10/25/2022 at 7:32 PM, unheard said:

If they're not obligated to display test results, then they certainly won't do that even if they regularly test their output.

Yes, I've tested my drinking water at a Bangkok lab, at my own expense.

Would you mind sharing the lab details? (no worries if not - or DM?)

This unit looks very good - but I have no idea what Philip's reputation is like in Thailand.

We had a terrible experience with Siemens refrigerators for example which are manufactured here under license from Siemens.

(Note, I am in no way associated with either Philips, or the company presenting the demonstration below.)

Thoughts anyone?

Very good demonstration video here, although for the previous model - which is very similar....

3 hours ago, unheard said:

As far as I know all bottled water companies are regulated and do periodically lab test their product.

 

Are you saying your local bottled water companies are not using RO?

My understanding is that every company that is in the business of selling drinking water does use RO.

As far as I know - Aura Mineral Water (the green bottles) is genuinely a mineral water from a spring in Chiang Mai. We've driven past the company, and also know a little about the work they've done in 'ecosystem services' and some NGO work. We like it, but we're going through a LOT in a month - hence the search for a water filter system.

8 hours ago, lopburi3 said:

This is an RO system that makes mineral water - I prefer non mineral as use for iron and coffee has better taste without so removed the final filter and unit works very well - all connections are well made and having first filter visible helps to remind that filter may need more than yearly change.  Have been using such systems for many years and believe product is great and cost is very little at about 2.5 to 3.5k.  I would buy the 5 filter system if no need for mineral water.

https://www.google.com/aclk

Thanks @lopburi - this machine looks like 'the business'. We're just a bit tight for space and a tank - although we might be able to make it work.

8 hours ago, unheard said:

@waters

 

https://shopee.co.th/⚡️7.7ลดราคา⚡️-Mi-Water-Purifier-600G-เครื่องกรองน้ำอัจฉริยะ-MR624-เครื่องกรองน้ำ-i.309606885.6654902336?sp_atk=2a3ed35e-a744-4c0b-892b-d1ade8d6560c&xptdk=2a3ed35e-a744-4c0b-892b-d1ade8d6560c

 

https://shopee.co.th/Philips-water-AUT2015-เครื่องกรองน้ำ-เครื่องกรองน้ํา-ro-เครื่องกรองน้ําดื่ม-เครื่องกรองน้ําประปา-เครื่องกรองน้ําระบบ-ro-i.310902722.7957156848?sp_atk=9c117894-1902-40ac-8ce4-ddfbba6656f9&xptdk=9c117894-1902-40ac-8ce4-ddfbba6656f9

 

https://shopee.co.th/YOMIZU-รุ่น-Kiyo-ii-เครื่องกรองน้ำ-RO-Tankless-Real-time-<deleted>-monitor-i.269977134.12225835321?sp_atk=a9368f10-a725-4ea4-939a-f894305c93cd&xptdk=a9368f10-a725-4ea4-939a-f894305c93cd

 

 

@unheard - thanks! Some interesting units here - the YOMIZU machine is a tankless real-time RO system, which I was particularly interested in. I'll do a little more digging.

3 hours ago, Why Me said:

I have had

https://mazuma.co.th/en/product/aq-5f-uvs/

for 3 years now. No complaints and haven't had any stomach issues I could attribute to drinking water.

Thanks @Why Me - do you know if the tap can be removed on the Mazuma system you've linked to? So that we could thread a pipe and place a custom tap near the sink?

4 hours ago, carlyai said:

Hi, trouble is with the Stiebels types, the replacement cartridges are expensive.

Enclosed some pics of our under-sink-unit and tap. 

Just bought 3 new filters about B1300 total for the 3.

We've had this unit for about 6 years and not died yet. ????

Thanks for posting @carlyai - I've seen the Treatton name around as well. Will also compare the cost of replacement filters..

Quite a good blog post here...

https://iamkohchang.com/blog/tap-water-in-thailand.html

As well as data from MWA here...

https://twqonline.mwa.co.th/EN/map.php?type=

And the paper referred to in the blog post above here...

https://www.e3s-conferences.org/articles/e3sconf/abs/2018/05/e3sconf_iwa2018_01011/e3sconf_iwa2018_01011.html

Hi All, we've lived in a condo in central Bangkok for several years now. We've relied almost exclusively on bottled Aura Mineral Water for our drinking water but would now like to switch to a water filter system (to reduce plastic bottle waste, and maybe overall costs).

I've seen systems from Stiebel Eltron, and Mazuma in the forums, as well as this post from 2016 - https://aseannow.com/topic/940312-what-drinking-water-filter-do-you-recommend/

I understand the basic difference between RO and non-RO systems, and am not particularly worried about mineral content as we're likely to get enough of the important minerals from other sources. Taste might be a factor.

These two systems from Stiebel Eltron look pretty good -

Stream 5S

https://www.stiebel-eltron.co.th/en/home/products-solutions/water-filter/drinking-water-filter/domestic-use/stream-5s/stream-5s--ste-.html

Glacier (STE) - RO - although not shown in the pictures here, pretty sure it requires a tank.

https://www.stiebel-eltron.co.th/en/home/products-solutions/water-filter/drinking-water-filter/domestic-use/glacier/glacier--ste-.html

There are other more modern 'tankless' RO systems - although they might have to be imported, like..

SimPure T1-400

https://www.amazon.com/SimPure-T1-400-UV-Tankless-Filtration/dp/B0B14TM99T

The big issue with a system like this I think would be getting replacement filters.

I don't think we have space for a tank - although we own our unit, and so could install a 5 stage system on the other side of the wall from our kitchen sink (in our bathroom, on a wall that has water, drain, and power) and route the tap through the wall to appear just above the sink next to the normal tap.

Our main concern is general drinking water safety - especially as we have a 6 year-old.

Anyway - was wondering if there were any 'Bangkok water gurus' in the forum would might be able to share some advice?

Thanks everyone. And thanks for the warning about trying to retro-fit another layer @eyecatcher.

Given that the frame, window and door is so small, I'm wondering if we should just replace the whole thing with a modern double glazed casement window and door.

Does anyone know of a good casement window and door brand, and installer in or around Bangkok?

Something like this... (although this company only sells fittings..) http://www.vilann.com/#!casement-window-en/c1myz

As a follow up to the 'load bearing wall' post and our new build... http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/789681-non-load-bearing-block-partition-construction/

...I was wondering if anyone can offer advice as to how we might be able to improve the sound proofing of our single-glazed, aluminum-framed windows and balcony door for one of the bedrooms. The aluminum frame is large and sturdy, with about a 1.75inch/4.5cm recess, so there is plenty of room in theory for something to be installed on top of the existing glass to help with sound proofing.

We live on top of a busy intersection, and it's the traffic noise we'd like to reduce.

I suspect a lot of the sound leakage is coming from around the balcony door itself, and we're going to try installing some weather stripping here, although I'd like to consider something a little more robust as well - even a sliding inside door maybe?

Pictures below...

As before - any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.

Here's a follow up post, with some photos, after having completed the renovation. We used Q-Con blocks from SCG. The builders put a reinforced section above the door frames, for the entire length of the wall (they called it 'En' in Thai - although I'm not sure what this translates to exactly). They also tied the ends of the wall to the existing walls with small steel studs, every other row. To my untrained eye - they seemed to do a good job, and it all worked out well. You can see the air conditioner hung on our new AAC/Q-Con partition. :-)

Thanks again for all the advice here in the forum.

I now have a question about sound proofing our windows and balcony door frame - another thread coming soon... :-)

Thanks again billphillips and JDGRUEN. Much appreciated, and noted on all points.

At this point we've cleared out nearly everything from the unit. The kitchen co., has just come in and discussed plans with the builder. With all the old material out, we have a nice list of tasks, mods, electrical requirements etc. On Monday we're going to sit down with the builder and go through everything (in a nice and friendly manner). I've also just spoken to Q-CON, and if we buy their products from one of their dealers in the area, they will send one of their technicians along to discuss materials and methods with our builder.

Fingers crossed!!! :-)

Back of envelope:

Okay thanks IMHO - we'll double check. The partitions are going to form a perfect 'T', roughly in the middle of the unit, and so the overall weight of the partitions in the middle, at the 'T' junction will certainly be higher than at the edges.

Anyone care to guess how much a 1 meter stretch of 7.5cm thick, fully rendered Q-CON AAC wall might weigh?

Hi billphillips, IMHO - thanks again - more priceless info. The forum has proved valuable as an understatement.

billphillips - I've seen the precast 50mm slab floors you speak of, and I'm reasonable sure that's not the case here (although as you've suggested, we'll check). We received two separate quotations for the work, and both contractors, along with the Juristic Condominium Office where we submitted drawings - have said that an AAC wall is fine (it was the first builder that recommended Superblock) - although you're suggestion of receiving something in writing is a good one and we'll do that too.

The building was built in 2000 and its architect was a former chair of the Architect Council of Thailand (who also lived in the building after it was built). Even to my untrained eye - the quality of materials, and overall design seems to be very good. I've watched an 'Ideo Mobi' go up in less than a year, about 300 meters from us, as well as been inside, and the differences are dramatic. Even the conduit used in the ceiling for the fan/extractor from the bathroom, is a solid rectangular steel vent shaft leading to the balcony, tied to the concrete ceiling (above the drop), and not the round flexi-tube that's used elsewhere. All other conduits and junction boxes are clearly labelled and neatly tied into place.

Thanks also for clarification on the sand/cement vs. AAC 'glue'. That's a big help - and one less thing to worry about. Same for the method of tying the new wall to the existing load-bearing wall at either end, with a large screw and plug, or steel rod.

IMHO - re: finished wall thickness, and electrical boxes - thanks and understood.

Will post pictures of the work in progress if anyone here is interested... ;-)

I think at this point, the only thing I'm still a little unsure about, is how - with a 7.5cm thick block - plus plaster - do you enclose a regular electrical box?

I've seen examples of how a finished wall can be chased out, and what I think is a pvc pipe drawn down with electrical wires inside, but where does the electrical outlet box go if you want the faceplate to be flush with the wall?

Do you cut a hole in the wall where the electrical outlet is placed? (usually near the floor - same for telephone, or cable TV).

Hi kamalabob2 - thanks very much for the reply. Very reassuring! I'll speak to Q-Con and ask them about how to tie in the partition wall to the load-bearing walls on either end. It does sound however, that the metal strips you are referring to, might be a little different from the larger full-length Wall Profiles described by eyecatcher above.

Stay tuned...!

Hi JDGRUEN - that's the same for us - the outside compressor is on a balcony and tied to a load-bearing concrete wall. Only the internal blower, and radiator (I'm not sure what you call the inside part!) will hung on the AAC wall.

Okay understood - on all points @eyecatcher - and thanks very much again for taking the time to reply.

One of the partitions will indeed have an air conditioner attached to it and there are two door frames. The door frames are exactly 95mm - and so a 75mm block with 1cm of plaster on each side should match up nicely. Does this makes sense? That said our existing steel frame and plaster board walls are 100mm thick, and so there is about a 5mm lip, or reveal, on the inside of the frames.

From everything I've read, AAC walls are very strong, and so I'm assuming that hanging the inside portion of a 17,000 BTU Mitsubishi Mr Slim air condition will be okay?

Also wondering what thickness of block we should use. Q-CON blocks come in standard sizes of 20x60cm at 7.5 10 and 12.5cm thickness. I believe the builder is going to plaster them, about 1cm each side and he's recommended the 7.5cm thick blocks. Thoughts?

Okay - here we go.

Was talking to the contractor today about his plan for the new partitions and I asked him if he'd be using any 'wall profies' - to attached each end of the AAC block wall to the existing end walls.

"Wall Profiles. These metal strips are fixed to the walls at either end of the new