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Posts posted by Crossy
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11 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:
I have my chair screwed up to the highest setting, so that my legs are almost dangling off the front of the chair.
Have a look here
https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/ergonomics/office/chair_adjusting.html
Also, if your legs are short, fat and hairy, then how about a footrest?
https://www.lazada.co.th/catalog/?spm=a2o4m.home-th.search.d_go&q=office footrest
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Just remember that "ex" is a has-been and a "spurt" is a drip under pressure.
Hence my business cards saying "Specialist"
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Just sell it online and cut your losses.
Office chairs, like many
womenthings in life, need to be tried out in the flesh!!- 1
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Hernia anyone??
Those Liyuan 280Ah x 48V battery packs are about 110kg each!
No, I didn't lift them in!
We just happened to have a couple of Thai labourers re-building (actually knocking down) our damaged retaining wall. A hundred Baht each (probably about 30% of their day rate for demolishing the wall) and they were more than happy to oblige.
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Indeed ^^^, do check the tariffs
https://www.pea.co.th/Portals/1/Knowledge PEA/Electricity Tariffs JAN66 Unofficial Translation.pdf?ver=2023-01-27-133655-423The PEA bill-estimator also does TOU
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I voted "wait and see".
I'm already a Thai taxpayer by virtue of being employed (actually I'm "resting" right now) but I really want to avoid paying more tax than I absolutely have to.
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Actually a "useful electrical sites" thread might be a good idea, possibly include places to get those unusual items (such as "intermediate" switches).
I too use Doncaster Cables calculator as it's pretty idiot-proof and gives results in metric rather than AWG which many others do being US-centric. Unfortunately, it doesn't calculate for aluminium cable, although simply going one size larger for Al seems to be a pretty general rule.
One problem which we're sure to encounter is regulations do vary around the world.
Let me apply my (small and aging) brain. We've tried similar in DIY and it got to be unmanageable.
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Looks pretty normal SRT standard to me, but of course it's a "file photo".
By the way, could AN persuade the AI not to mix languages in its articles please.
Either use English or US English (I really don't care which), but please do not mix them.
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Ancient thread dredged up simply to mud sling.
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27 minutes ago, carlyai said:Bloody kids. 🙂
Love 'em to bits, but this is the single best photo I took whilst they were here.
That's the back end of the van taking them to the airport
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UK grandkids were here for 3 weeks in April which also skewed the PEA consumption by increasing our daily usage "somewhat", it's also been hot, hot, hot.
In a normal month we would have easily covered everything using solar.
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Here we are, May 1st. April figures.
Potentially confusing as we are in the throes of an upgrade expanding to 13.1kWP on 14-April then further expanding to 15.3kWP on 22-April. That's it for panel expansion for now, got to sort out storage and new inverters next.
EDIT According to PEA's bill estimator the 1,392kWh our solar created out of thin air would be worth 6,962Baht.
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6 minutes ago, lom said:
around 20 amps when they consume at most
Probably less than that in reality (closer to 15A tops), and once rooms are down to temperature ...
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A pukka 3-phase pump will have very different windings to a single-phase capacitor pump, what you are measuring resistance wise suggests you do have the right kind of motor (it wouldn't be the first time although an actual 3-phase motor likely wouldn't have run at all).
Anyway, since you seem to be drawing something like stall current, I wonder if the rotor is locked (sucked in a rock?) or is it even actually seized.
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Before hauling the beast up 70m, try testing the capacitor by substitution, it's by far the most likely failure point.
Are you getting those currents in each wire but the pump isn't actually running??
I'm assuming you have a single-phase, capacitor-run (3-wires + ground) rather than an actual 3-phase pump.
If the pump is actually new then it's time to go back to the supplier if it's not the capacitor.
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11 minutes ago, brianburi said:
Not sure why somebody would put a sad sticker on my location post.
And like magic ...
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Believe it or not you can get pretty much anything from some little retail shop down a side alley, it's knowing where to go that's the trick.
Your first port of call should be your local bike-taxi chaps, they know everything and everyone, and once you know where to go, they'll even go and pick up an exchange bottle for a nominal fee.
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3 minutes ago, Muhendis said:
All electronic components, even fuses, have a voltage rating for this very reason.
Yeah, using 48V rated fuses in a "48V" system may not necessarily be a good idea, battery voltage can be over 58V at times. Although in this case the fuses were apparently correctly rated.
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3 minutes ago, Muhendis said:
You have my sympathies Crossy.
When did that happen?
Absolutely NOT us!!!
The linked thread is an interesting read. Fire investigators determined that it was a fuse that continued to arc after it had opened that initiated the conflagration. Many forum members do not necessarily agree.
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Take care out there chaps, mitigate against the worst possible outcome ...
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/
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14 minutes ago, mikerwriter said:
Apparently, you're not using online banking mobile apps, because we can check transactions there, going back six months, at any time.
Actually, I do use online banking apps and am fully aware of the history available.
I was just pointing out that transactions can appear in the history long after one would imagine they should.
Since you evidently don't need further help, I'll not bother.
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There is no such thing as "British English" there is just English and the US version developed by British-hating Noah Webster.
Neither is "better", neither is "correct" (many will disagree with me on that point), both work equally well provided the context is understood and clear.
What irks me is when someone mixes the two, particularly in technical documents (evidently just copy/paste). Example from a recent document "The Initialize screen is used when the operator wants to initialise cards".
Grrr.
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you can get pretty accurate by starting with a small (3mm or so) masonry bit, (they don't wander as readily as bigger ones) then gradually enlarging the hole to your desired size, but it still may not be accurate enough.
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