ktm jeff

1 hour ago, bazza73 said:

Not possible to know, because a manufacturer certainly won't tell you. Some semi-synthetics will be 10% synthetic, another might be 50%. It depends on the greed of the manufacturer.

Maybe there's a correlation between price per litre and the amount spent on advertising.

Semi synthetic ( SS ) oils had just 10% synthetic in them , and so 90% mineral / dino oil , but it was soon discovered this was not up to standard for modern engines and driving , so the minumum was increased to 20%. Some of the better oil companies and engineers agreed that 30% would be safer. Kind of proves how unsuitable mineral oil is in modern engines. As SS is so much more expensive than satndard mineral oil , and not "too" much cheaper than Fully Synthetic ( FS ) , i will continue to use 100% FS oil. Or you can buy 1 can of FS oil and mix it with 5 cans of mineral oil. Same same.

5 hours ago, transam said:

Large % of engine wear is not thrashing a ride, it is on start up, no oil pressure for a few seconds. Syn takes care of that issue, if a film is present it's "body" takes care of stuff.

Catrol does some good oil. Their Magnatec really does provide a protective film of oil that helps at the most critical point - a cold and "oil dry" start-up.  Im a fan / believer of Slick 50 additives too. Now theres a topic for debate.

Farting in an elevator is wrong   ,   on so many levels ! .   I,ll get my coat.

My first memories didnt involve a Rudge , but did involve Castrol R. My dad bought 2 go-carts from the manager of TJ filters in Plymouth , back to Birmingham , both on the roof of the car !. Ive loved engines ever since. Never was good enought to turn pro , but ive riden trials , enduro , moto-cross , motards and road/track bikes. I still ride sports bikes and enduro/greenlaners in England , and off-road in Chiang Mai. My main reason for taking early retirement in 2011 was to spend more time riding with an eye to move full time to Thailand around 2020. Ive just turned 52 last month and while i know im "older" i refuse , point blank , to be old - ever.  My girlfriend also calls my bike my mia noi/wife. Some people will never know , or dont wish to know , the thrill that biking gives. I smile to myself , like a dog with his head out of a car window , knowing they will never feal "THIS" sensation.  Keep riding my young friend , even when it can be only in your head.

Thanks jack. The VVT system is very advanced , and seems it could be the way forward for better fuel consumption / lower emissions.  With the bigger tires on those 13 " Yamaha rims , i believe the overall rolling radius of the wheels is equal to the narrow tired 14 " wheels of say a Honda. As you say , the Yamaha is both fast , smooth and very stable.  It seems it has better susspension components and design than the Honda. Priced a fair bit cheaper too .

Well i didnt know that. Thank you guys. In England i used a lot of Carlube products. Always found them to be very good.

I may be wrong - have been before - but i thought the GL 5 oil was an upgraded oil from the GL 4 , ie , better quality.

HI jack corbett. Do you mean the Yamaha has 1.5 BHP more than the Honda , or 1.5 "times" ( 50 % ) more power ? . Thanks.

The foorests are OK , if one leg is shorter that the other .

9 hours ago, transam said:

The boats I were involved with took cold water flow from the sea, no radiator..But I assume they had a stat..

They are "open" cooling systems and use a lot of stainless steel components , such as pump impellers , as running in salt water causes problems. Jet skis are the same. "Closed" systems run the sea/river water through a radiator , whose internal coolent then circulates the engine. Onto cars . The thermostat slowly starts to open as the engine temp increases. It may open fully if running around town , but will close slightly if you are running on the freeway , if it has a decent amount of cooling air passing through the radiator. If the coolent passes through the radiator "too quickly" , the air wont be folwing over the coolent pipes for long enougth to cool it down enougth , hence the coolents flow is REGULATED by the thermostat. In race engines you can use an electric coolent pump and vary its speed to maintain optimun temperature.

3 minutes ago, macknife said:

I guess a lot of it is that the Click is water cooled whereas the GT is air cooled. Costs money for that radiator system etc.

True , but a radiator on a Honda should not cost nearly 25% of a complete Yamaha .  Although liquid cooled is , in many cases , better than air cooled ( although servicing / repair costs will be higher ) i dont think it makes much difference on a scooter , or that even people will keep them long enougth to get any benefit.

I cant understand how the Honda can possibly be more expensive than the Yamaha. Hondas seem to be 25% overpriced. The stop/go saves very little fuel ( if any ) and certainly not 20,000 KM worth.  Dont forget , when your Honda turns itself off , the water pump also stops , so the already hot engine sits there getting hotter through heat soak. Not ideal. The CBS brake system is the one where , if you drag the rear brake through a corner , the front brake also comes on. Not ideal. With the Yamaha , you have basicly got years of "free" riding with the 10,000 Baht saving.

The information i have on the Keeway 200 Enduro ( E ) and the 200 Supermotard ( M ) is  , 9.5 KW / 12.88 BHP at 7,500 , and 13.5 KW / 10 LB/FT torque at 6,000 .   I assume the Superlight has the same level of engine "tune".  They dont have much pressence in Chiang Mai , and the only dealer i found ( near the main junction on highway 11 ) appears to have stoped selling them. The 3 models  were all under 60K when new , but were selling their last ( ? ) Motard at just 45K earlier this year.  Used Superlight at 49K is 10/15K too much.  In 2014 i bought a Platinum PX 250 ( Enduro ) that has 17 BHP and 12.7 LB/FT.  Used off road , on motocross tires , it still going great , with the only problem being the "dealer" closed up in 2016.  If ANYONE knows where there is another Platinum dealer , PLEASE  PLEASE  let me know.  I havent needed , or had any problems , getting parts as many people say Honda parts are the same.  Unless you have a long time dealer near you , buying a Platinum may be an issue , although not due to any quality problems.

21 hours ago, bangkokairportlink said:

If anybody could try to be a bit clear, this thread would be more useful :-)

 

 

Theres only so far one can "dumb down" an answer.  Sadly , it seems , you are below this level , by a good amount.

Unless you have a high compression / tuned engine , 91 octane fuel will be fine if its E 10. Other wise use 95 octane E 10.  I would prefer not to use E 20 for the reasons ive tried to explain above.  If your riding off-road and have no choice , then OK. Just top up with 91 or 95 E 10 when you can.

We are not worthy to get between a man and his Chang.

Well done. Both bikes are superb - i knew they would be . Trying to imagine the bikes with my questionable seat cover color choices.  You may be right !.  Glad you finally mastered the "speed blocks" . Those sump guards / bash plates look heavy duty. does "ol blu" lean over more on the side stand.  Enjoy riding them with your son.

7 hours ago, bangkokairportlink said:

 

What long term damage ? If your car make said that you can use it, there won't have any damage.

 

 

Just because the maker says you can , doesnt mean its as good for your engine as other fuels that are available. Ethanol is a "dry" fuel ( it lacks lubrication propeties ) ,  and can cause similar lubrication problems as experienced by many people , many years ago who tried to switch from "leaded" petrol , to "un-leaded" .  Ethanol also causes engine components , such as valves , to run a lot hotter .  In Thailand , a hot country. Just think about that for a moment. Show me 2 engines after 150K , 1 thats run on E85 and the other thats run on E10 , and you will both hear and feel the difference.  As a matter of fact , did you know there is a special engine oil available , just to use if you try to run on CNG , another "dry" fuel.  End of the day , its not my engine , or my problem. Just do some serious research befor commiting yourself. Im not being "anti-green" , but the small annual savings some people may make  do not yet compensate for the many issues and concerns. Give it 5 - 10 years , and Ethanol and CNG may make more sense due o economic reasons.

VocalNeal , yes , you are correct. E 10 95 is 10 or 11% more expensive than E 20.  E10 91 is 8% more expensive than E 20.  I would always prefer to use fuel with the least amount of Ethanol considering the long term damage / problems it causes.  A car ( standard or performance ) that has been correctly tuned ONLY for E85 , could give more ultimate power but i would fuel consumption to be as much as 40% higher , although bad emmisions could be less.  I believe "E 85" contains about 70% Ethanol.

I oil my flters in a large sealable - zip lock - bag that is then kept in a sealed "Tupawear" tub to prevent evaporation. Motul is my prefered brand , or Silkolene. I know you have problems sourcing spares where you are , but my choice of seat colors would be   powder blue , or second , white on the blue bike , and yellow , or second , black on the other. Just depends on what YOU want ( these are your bikes afterall ) and whats available.  85KG is good , but is that with all the speedblocks ?.

E 85 is cheaper as Ethanol has 35 % less energy than "Gasahol" , meaning you may use a lot more , possibly whilst getting less power. E85 is only 13% cheaper. Do the maths.

Photos of the spinners too , please.  You do realise you will be inundated with requests for more custom spinners.  I can see a market for you  there.  On another note , i would have a white seat on the blue bike , and a black seat on the yellow one. OMO.

I thought the only "91" being dropped was the useless E20 stuff.  E20 only worked "well" if it was the higher octane 95.

Have you bothered to look at the models i have already suggested.

What bike is it ?.  If its only worth 35K , would a used/secondhand shock be more viable , if available.