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RubberSideDown

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Posts posted by RubberSideDown

  1. In Oz the dealer wants a copy of your license, sign a disclaimer for liability and give you a alcohol breath test. Plus there's a $1500 insurance access if you loose it!

    I can believe that - having lived in Aus for a year (97-98) I really noticed on my recent trip trip to Sydney that the old stereotypical laid back Aussie that I regularly experienced 15 years ago is almost extinct. Real shame, but I guess there are reasons for it as shown it that pic above...

    Quite shocking how quickly that place changed though...

    Definitely time for the test rider to hail a cab :)

    I think it was in the USA going by the clues.

    1/ Big fat guy in foreground.

    2/ Dodge pick-up in background.

    It's actually a Yamaha dealership (I guess they sell Kawi as well) in Oregon.

  2. $400 is about right from MotoMummy.com- dampers look cool, and I thought about getting one, but it will block the steering stem on my bike and that's where I'm gonna mount my GPS.;)

    Looks aside I guess just depends on bike & how you ride.

    I can say I only had a bike or two that needed it. An older 900RR

    that I had modded a bit definitely needed it if pulling hard out of corners

    with the front getting light if I hit a bump or rough patch it would start the oscillations

    which only need be felt once to put the fear of a full blown tank slapper in you :lol:

    A steering damper is necessary for a Z 1000 I feel.

    Especially when you are gunning it away from the lights and the front end is very light all the way to 120 clicks and beyond :w00t:

    On some bikes they're necessary- on a 1st-gen 900RR with a 16" front wheel a damper was a good idea- tank-slappers were frequent occurrences.;)

    On my bike, I have yet to read a report of a serious tank-slapper- it seems to be very stable (I say 'seems' as I don't have it yet- now it's supposed to be Saturday...), and I'd probably only end up slowing down what is already not exactly the fastest steering on the road.

    That said, they DO look cool, and I'd probably still get one (most likely the Scott's or the GPR) if I didn't need the steering stem for my mount.

  3. Yeah, that I w

    I think knocking 20 to 30 kilos of the bikes will be a breeze

    That might be a bit optimistic- 10-15kg, maybe- 30kg would be really expensive.
    I dont know what i was thinking as i meant to write lbs. Assuming they are similar my slipons went from 15lbs to 1.5. the pipe and cat would be another 10lbs reduction...and if we put one less gallon of fuel in thats another 6lbs...

    So thats 30lbs shaved off without much thinking.

    Yeah, that I would agree with.

    Using my bike as an example, going to a single-sided exhaust and different header cut about 30lbs (though as you know the stock unit was ridiculously huge and not typical)- dropping another 5lbs is easy enough (brake lines, fender eliminator, removing a couple useless reflectors, etc)- after that, it's carbon fiber parts and 'unobtainium' wheels.;)

  4. They're such a worthwhile upgrade- the difference is huge- I almost forgot about them ('lucky' for me the dealer screwed up the delivery schedule so I'm getting them for free in compensation for receiving the bike on Friday instead of Monday, unless he comes up with another 'sick buffalo' story...);)

    • Like 1
  5. I'll guess you'll be easy to spot at night.;)

    I ordered HID lights (8000K- that's the rating, not the price) for better day and night visibility, but I don't think I'll take it further than that (though I might go for a Halo kit)- what the hell- bikes are supposed to be fun.

    • Like 1
  6. Really, the tuning part is not my primary interest as I already have the PC in place, but I've read so many comments re: opening the secondaries earlier- it's supposed to transform the bike- at 7750rpm, it makes ~25hp and 35lb/ft over the stock settings (though peak power is about the same), and several of the other features will come in handy as well, though they don't really affect performance.

  7. Actually the Bazzaz system can work with the 14R- it's been around for years.

    The Bazazz interface is different- it's basically the same as a Power Commander (which I already have as that's what Brock's Performance makes maps for, and Brock made my pipe), and is mostly for fueling changes- the Wollich kit gives me direct access to the ECU, and it allows for changes that no other system can currenly offer- neither the Bazzaz or PC offer direct ECU access, but rather piggyback it and sit between the ECU and fuel system, so they can't make rev limit changes, set throttle body openings, derestrict speed limiters and safety modes, etc.

    If I can figure out the correct tune, I can probably dump the Power Commander entirely, and still have access to so many other features- there's really no comparison.

    I've been playing around with the Wollich software (my kit just shipped today so I won't have it for a week or so, but I already have the 14R maps)- it's pretty amazing what it can do.

    • Like 1
  8. Yeah, there are people sharing maps as well, and Woolich keeps updating their bin file as they discover more settings in the ECU.

    Other programmers have also been 'locking' the ECU before sending it back to their customers so the company is the only one that can make future changes- that's BS and another reason I'd rather do it myself.

  9. If it's a commonly tuned vehicle, using a canned tune is fine.

    That's my take on it- there are hundreds of second-gen 14Rs that have been piped and flashed, and dozens of dyno charts and user reviews showing the results- they are all very consistent with each other. I wouldn't take a chance with the bike, but I do believe in the tried-and-tested results I've seen so far.

    In any case, I won't be messing with fueling or timing for a while, but I'd like to dump factory-imposed restrictions at my option.

  10. I'm not going to be doing much in the way of actual tuning, especially since I already have a PC installed- the mods I'll make are pretty much simple (derestricting limiters, resetting modes, setting the TC so it can be changed on the fly, changing the seondary throttle body opening RPM, etc)- I will be breaking in the bike and getting to know it first, and I'll be doing that with the stock map (though I'll have the new map in place). Opening up the flies earlier is what makes it all worth it (which can only be done with a reflash)- peak power is unaffected.

    As quick as it is, Kawasaki still neutered it a bit in the first three gears, and I'd like to correct that.;)

    I get the bike on Thursday or Friday.

  11. ECU flashing for the 14R is huge in the US- it's about as common as an aftermarket pipe- it allows changes in fueling like a Power Commander or similar device, but it also allows access to other features like derestricting the speed limiter, eliminating a 'safety mode' in the lower gears that can restrict timing if the throttle is whacked open, extending redline, and (of most interest to me) the revs at which the secondary throttle flies open can be changed from 5500rpm to 3200rpm, opening up as much a 20hp in the midrange.

    Right now it costs ~$350, but it necessitates removing your ECU and shipping it to the technician (which I'm not comfortable doing- if it gets lost I'm screwed)- an Australian company, Woolich Racing (http://www.woolichracing.com/Default.aspx) sells the USB interface (made by Misubishi), the Kawasaki bench harness, and 14R Bin File Definitions for $450 (which, if RT shipping of my ECU to the States is factored in, is probably cheaper than having it done), which will allow me to flash it myself.

    The 14R has a low-power mode (via a separate ECU map) that I'm never gonna use, so I'm going to set it up as my new map so I can switch back to stock if I need to get it serviced.

    They make set-ups for most bikes- it's worth checking out if you like to fool around with your tuning.

  12. Today got some parts from hong kong value $ 200 via HK post tax 2300baht. Had some tools come from the uk via royal mail last week. Value 60£ no tax last week.

    Also today received some projector hids from china value $70 no tax....

    I don't think I've ever been hit for duty for something via Royal Mail from the UK or something sent from China- I nearly always get nailed for stuff from the States.

  13. The high end seems to be 30% duty + 7% VAT- small items generally slip through unnoticed (provided they go via USPS- FedEx and UPS almost always take a hit)- sometimes they charge less duty- it can seem arbitrary.

    Declaring a lower value can help (sometimes works, sometimes doesn't- most companies won't do it as it limits their insured value for a lost package), and unmarked packages attract less notice.

    As always, having a friend bring your stuff over in checked luggage is your best bet (though it's not always possible, unfortunately).

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