flipper2222222

15 hours ago, BritManToo said:

How about a storage water heater ........ and use your existing wiring 10Kbht

https://mazuma.co.th/en/product/ariston-model-adris-slim-30/

 

wont this mean when the 30 liters is finished I will end up with a cold shower? would prefer the instantaneous as the warm water is ongoing. 

14 hours ago, Dan O said:

The main issue at hand is the restrictors are sized to handle a specific amount of flow in order to heat the water properly as they have a very small capacity tank internal. Getting a larger heater is the appropriate approach after you've determined how much flow and temp you want or need. the numbers posted as part if the test done are fairly significant already  although at what temp???  You have generally a flow restrict at the base of the heater where the flex tubing connects and you may also have a flow restrictor inside the hand held shower head that can often be removed 

thanks, I will have a closer look at these area of the current system, I found a ladder hidden at home so will try again as from the  ground I was struggling to get the cover off 

I am after more pressure rather than hot temperature, agreed doubling the flow might make the water not quite warm enough.

2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

 

Humm. That would not even be correct we’re you to run both heaters at full power for an hour at a time,

they would certainly get the temperature rather higher than is recommended but melting the cable is a gross overstatement.

 

If you were to put a meter on your water heater you will be hard put to get a reading anything like the maximum. 75% of total is most likely to be the maximum  you would get and in general 50% is more likely.

 

Of course adding a separate supply or upgrading the existing is the best option.

 

also your you rating for 2.5mm cable is either too high, if the cable is Enclosed in conduit in an insulated wall or too low if the cable is clipped to the wall

I guess it wouldn't be too hard to wire a separate heater to the fuse box on a separate circuit, but the contact I had at Seibel Electron answered today with this. 

"Our service and installation partners have not been doing parallel installations for some time now as in the past there were too many issues associated with the precises dimensioning of the pipes. Small mistakes in required pipe lengths can result in unsatisfactory flow through the 2 separate units."

anyone know a company in BKK could setup such a parallel system and wire from the fuse box?

cheers

19 hours ago, Artisi said:

As far as increasing the heater size, higher wattage more amps, you will need to advise the cable size and the circuit breaker rating, assuming there is a seperate breaker for the heater circuit. Having this information might help, however you need review the flow capability of the heater and knowing the inlet temp of the water supply can also be a consideration. 

I have been advised that the wire to the current heater is supplied by 2.5 mm cable and the circuit breaker is 16 Amp, anyone know if this will allow another 3500 W heater in parallel?

On 1/3/2022 at 3:21 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Your power cable can almost certainly allow for a a more powerful heater, however that will not increase the flow. You could however add a second heater and run that in parallel to the first one, though not the most elegant solution it is simple to implement and guaranteed to at least increase the flow by 50% at least quite possibly almost 100% more

thanks STWW,

that is a very good logical solution, I have asked a contact at Siebel Eltron to see if one of their partners can do this for us. 

46 minutes ago, jaizan said:

Dismantle the heater, find the restrictor and modify it.

I thought it was the narrow size of copper pipes inside that was restricting it? do you think there is a specific part that can be removed?

currently we have a sharp wh55 installed 

20 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

Install  a storage heater instead of an instant heater.

thanks we considered that too, but we are a bit space limited so would prefer the current setup

hi everyone

my new Grundfos water pump based in our home in BKK delivers 19 liters per minute, but the shower water heater restricts it down to 8 liters per minute.

I heard that all water heaters in Thailand are restricted to 8 liters per minute? anyone know if this is true or not and can anyone suggest a shower water heater model that can allow more?  I realize that if we push more water through it might not heat the water sufficiently however I am not looking for a very hot shower, just to take the chill of the water and have more water flow.

I have also been  told that I cant go higher then 3500Watt otherwise I need to recable to the fuse box. 

thanks in advance to all helpful suggestions. 

here are my testing results

testing water flow per min - results
With heater connected cold water
8 liters 
With heater connected hot water
8 liters 
With no heater connected but with hand shower
16 liters
Tap only
19 liters

3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Most water heaters have restrictors that keep the flow low enough so they can heat the water. They also have variable restrictors that also can reduce the flow to increase the temperature along with filters that can get blocked or dirty which will also restrict the flow. So taking those out or cleaning the filter will help.

 

you may also have crud built up in the heater, this can sometimes be flushed by taking both hoses off the heater and running full pressure water in the reverse direction.
 

The more powerful heaters do not necessarily  have greater throughput they are designed to raise the water temperature by a greater extent than the lower powered ones.

 

You will have to do research on the litres per minute values of you current heater and the ones you are looking at to replace it.

yes totally agree it comes down to liters per minute, the websites I have looked at are scant on this type of detail. do you know a site where they list liters per minute?

how many liters does your shower \ heater put out?

cheers

On 12/15/2021 at 12:43 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

That’s the one I have, one word of warning, you can control the output pressure from 1.5 bar to a maximum of 5.5 bar. Our water system is designed to be able to cope with this pressure however we use the 2.5 ~ 3 bar setting as for us the higher pressure is not needed. If you are fitting it to an existing pipe system I suggest starting low as it’s maximum is much higher than most other brands and it is very easy to increase the available pressure 

 

the Mitsubishi super pump has a maximum of 2.9 bar or 3kg/cm

thanks for the information very interesting, I will look closer when I get back to the home. might come back to you on this as you appear to have some experience with it. 

11 hours ago, MJCM said:

Disclosing the Wattage of your current Water heater would be helpful to mention

I don't want the water to be too hot, just to take the chill off the water, currently we have a Sharp 3500W CH-55, more concerned with trying to keep the pressure of the water up, we just put in a Gundfos Scala 2

am I right in thinking the higher wattage models have bigger pipes and can take more water flow?

thanks all.

hi everyone, the shower water heater appears to be restricting flow of the water too much.

want to buy a new one that has the largest internal pipes so we can maintain the water throughput.

any helpful suggestions much appreciated? 

3 hours ago, sezze said:

If you are in same taxi or close to seat in airplane as a person who does test positive , you will be quarantined also , for 7 or 10 days . This is considered high risk contact , so even if you test negative , you will be quarantined but if you keep staying negative , insurance will not cover you . This is mentioned before by several others before , even some who did ask the insurance .

Positive but asymptomatic-> insurance pays

Positive and hospital -> insurance pays

Negative but required quarantine because of high risk contact -> insurance does not pay .

That is also why some mention coming over and specific asking for solo taxi to test location/hotel .

got it, thanks

On 12/12/2021 at 12:19 AM, Yellowtail said:

Are you sure the problem is pressure and not flow? 

 

Did the shower use to be good and now it's not?

Has it never been good? 

Did you just move in and have no idea? 

 

 

the pump is 10 years old and only 150 Watt.

I am going to buy one of these 

https://product-selection.grundfos.com/au/products/scala/scala2?tab=models

On 12/13/2021 at 9:39 AM, sezze said:

Not for quarantine for high risk contact ( testing negative ).

Yes , spending 10-20 hours in airports and aircraft , with tons of people around , it certainly is worrying .The more people come over the more chance you suddenly in a aircraft where somebody tested positive , and you are quarantined , at own cost .

Not for quarantine for high risk contact ( testing negative ).

I dont understand what you mean sezze 

the policy says I am covered as soon as I pass immigration. 

my policy says I am covered when I get past immigration, where if the test is positive I am covered for quarantine. 

Luma insurance

https://www.hitachi-homeappliances.com/th-en/products/water-pump/shallow-well-tank/wt-p150gx2.html

we have this model now, it has woeful pressure

hi all, 

about to purchase a water pump, 

2 level house, with a big water tank in the kitchen next to 150W water pump currently installed.  house is in northern suburbs of BKK

upstairs shower pressure is poor. 

someone is trying to talk into me into a 400 W Carina

https://www.homepro.co.th/m/p/1151775

anyone had any experience with this Carina brand? I was thinking to buy a Hitachi or Mitsubishi

Also this is an automatic pump but I was preferring a constant pressure pump, is there any great difference in performance?

any helpful suggestions much appreciated. 

14 hours ago, johng said:

http://www.customs.go.th/index.php?lang=en&

thank you, yes I too found this yesterday, this page in particular

http://www.customs.go.th/cont_strc_simple.php?lang=en&ini_content=individual_F01_160426_01&ini_menu=menu_individual_submenu_02&&left_menu=menu_individual_submenu_02_160421_01

are some of the other posters saying that despite this, freight companies may hold my good hostage?

44 minutes ago, johng said:

Sorry you won't find the information about your possessions being "held to ransom"  at any government website...but if you google this subject   of the Thai customs department and/or  importing a vehicle to Thailand there are many accounts  of how things go.

I am looking for the official tax and duty exemption regulations\laws on items for families that are relocating. does anyone know where I can find this information?

34 minutes ago, oceanbreeze851 said:

This is a good question as my shipment is suppose to arrive in Bangkok on July 21.

pls will you report back your experience?

15 minutes ago, johng said:

"A whole family planning on changing residence and moving to Thailand permanently will be given the privilege of bringing into the country two units of each item. Any unit in excess of this two-piece limit is already taxable. During an excess, Custom officials may levy a lower rate since the importer is a whole family."       Privilege !!!!   

 

Sell,donate to charity.friends and family or throw away as much as possible...

before dealing with Thai customs.

Most everything you could want is available to buy in Thailand...

do not whatever you do try to ship any sort of motor vehicle.

thank you,  do you know where I can find  this on a Thai Gov website? any official docs?

hi everyone, 

this page says

https://www.thaivisa-news.com/ship-household-items-to-thailand-for-retirement/

household items are duty and tax free for those on retirement visas. Is it the same for my wife (Thai National) and myself being on a non O visa?

anyone know of any official website for info?

thanks in advance.

1 minute ago, ubonjoe said:

It can be a 51/49% partnership with your wife. Part of it could be your wife's business and then your consulting business to get the work permit. You position could be as a manager or managing partner.

thanks UbonJoe , and as a managing partner part of my tasks can be consulting and working as a computer technician?

and wife's business could be any type of legal business?

thanks for the replies so far. to clarify. 

my aim is to get a work permit to work in IT as a consultant\technician for  some type business owned by myself\my wife. In my experience having a computer consultant only business may not be viable as my  Intellectual property is all in my head and not easily transferrable to 4 Thai workers to make a successful computer consulting business.

Hence my thought to have company that can major in a different type of business but also sidelines in computer consulting\technician work. My plan is not to work in retail sales\taking money or similar role. my plan is to stick to jobs that I have skills in. 

I would bill through the company that is created.  While I might continue to do work remotely to international customers, the plan would be to be able to legally in Thailand to Thai customers and bill through a Thai company owned by myself and my wife. 

are there any suggestions to achieve what I want and to stay within the rules to get and keep a work permit?

would a retail IT\electronic\accessories type retail shop be more realistic approach?