Wirejerker

It was in my consumer unit also. Resulting in us receiving a mild electric shock when using the shower/heater. The RCB also tripped occasionally as I recall. After the Neutral was disconnected to the Earth the shocks stopped and the RCB also stopped tripping.

I had that problem with an alternator and I disconnected the field wires red and white and connected a battery to the terminals (positive to the terminal with the red wire) for 3 to 5 sec. I did not start the generator at that stage. I reconnected the wires, cover back on then I started the generator. This was enough to put the residual ack into the field pole.
I read with interest using an electric drill to energise the field and I can see you need the right type of drill. One with permanent magnets and no speed control.


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Have you tried refrigeration fittings


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I've never seen the Thai regs ("Standard Electrical Installation for Thailand, 2013") in English, I doubt they exist. They almost certainly don't go to the level of saying it's ok to borrow neutrals, even the nanny UK regs BS7671 or Aussie AS3000 don't go to that level, it's just accepted as poor practice.
 
For your issue, the real fix is to rip it out and do it properly. The pragmatic approach is to determine which circuits borrow neutrals and then, if it's safe, put them all on one RCBO. Alternatively, put in a front end RCBO and have done with it.

If you distribution board is DIN mount then you could group circuits with shared neutrals on one RCD (keeping the individual breakers). 

If you are putting a box and a switch there you can put a changeover switch in so it’s ready to take a generator at a later date. If there is a blackout you can drop a generator there and have it up and running in less than an hour. Use a larger box then required so you can change to automatic switch over setup, a few control wires back to the CU and a 6mm earth wire back to CU earth bus. If you still got access run a conduit from the box to where you may put the generator..


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The Phillips S2 starter is designed for the lower wattage lamps. 4-22 Watts it gives you a better/faster start. The S10 starter range is 4-65 watts and it preforms better in the high range eg 36 Watts. The diag shows 2x18 Watt lamps on a 36 Watt ballast and normal starters.


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I hope no one is using a lead with a plug on each end (suicide lead) to connect their genset. Your wall mounted plug should look similar to this.
https://www.lazada.co.th/products/pce-16a-230v-3pin-2pe-i7515343-s9383748.html
And connected through a correctly wired change over switch


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I’ve done a ruff drawing from what you explained. There is a few different ways to wire these elements and it all works identical so if yours is wired different it not necessary wrong. eg the TOL is wired often on either side of the coil so it can be between the coil and the neutral or between the timer contact and the coil as drawn. I hope this helps.


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The thermal overload trip is on terminals 95 to 96


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Thanks for the bedtime story.
I accept you stating the obvious but I have no idea where you are going with the power saving part.
Just a simple example to help you along. We have 3 roller conveyors with two of their overloads set tight so that we don't wear slip joints and tooth belts too much when stuff gets trapped. As thermal overloads are quite lazy we don't trip during starting peak or from any short peaks during normal operation.

Yes you can but you open yourself up to nuisance tripping.
A motor will draw 6 times the rated current stated on the name plate on start not 6 times the static load. A thermal overload unit has one purpose in life and that is to protect the motor. Set it on the nameplate rating and it will then match the motor allowing short overloads such as starting and plugging as long as the timed average is below the rating of the motor. Setting the TOL low does not save power or protect the motor any better.


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The overload unit should be set to the current stated on the nameplate of the motor.
To manually trip the overload PULL the red button rather then push.
It’s rare for a terminal overload to have nuisance trips it usually indicates a problem that needs intervention or you will burn out a motor


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You need to check you have plenty of fall and down pipes to get the water away fast as you have blocked the overflow with the sealing on the wall so the excess water will flow back under the roof


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LED street light with solar panel n remote perhaps


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Just to confuse you. This is also a single-phase transformer.
 

 

Okay knee jerk answer


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You started it. I been thinking what I missed for hours


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Touchy?


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I said 3 but the pedantic will see 4


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Pass on that pump. Get one with a 10 meter lead on it. You won’t be sorry


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That’s an excellent result. Check your flow rate is not to much for the pump. If that’s Okay check the motor it could have a dud capacitor or winding.


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That will be fine then


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How far is the breaker switch from the pump.


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You need to measure the voltage at the motor when it’s running. A low voltage would of caused a premature failure of the submersible and this needs to be checked before you put in a new pump


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