Wirejerker

A watt meter or ammeter will measure exactly the same whether on Live or Neutral (it doesn't matter).

 

 

 

 

Cheers

You forget that you have an earth fault in the wire you are not measuring so the current splits into to paths

I assume you are using an ammeter.. Wattmeters read in watts. By your diagram meter A is on the active. And B is in the neutral.. so you r checking to different paths. To shut me up disconnect the active and neutral wires for the garden circuit. With both wires disconnected use a multimeter on Ω (ohms) test that circuit for a ground fault.


Cheers

You can check out that garden circuit while u wait. Maybe it's a reo bar through the cable


Cheers

You may have an active conductor damaged by a nail or screw and this has grounded giving you 18A. When u moved your wires on the transfer switch you reversed polarity so now the neutral is on the damaged wire and it's happy cause it's at the same potential as the earth, the active now has no switch so the lights stay on. I would look for the fault in the garden light circuit. Check you polarity at the CUs and before and after the transfer switch.


Cheers

If u had a RCD it would have tripped a long time before it got to 18A. Might be a good investment


Cheers

Be aware DC does not behave same as AC so your electrical components (switches, circuit breakers etc) must be rated for DC or you risk serious consequences. 

9 hours ago, Crossy said:

Definitely not something to mess about with if not qualified.

Which unit has the noisey fan. Inside unit or outside unit


Cheers

Battery chargers need some voltage in the battery to trigger them to start. Try paralleling a flat battery with a battery that still has some charge in it and putting them both on charge. The charger should trigger around 10 volts.


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No. The check valve does 3 things
1. stops pumping water into the village main
2. Stops recycling water to the tank
3. Allows village main to top up tank
Closing those valves only achieves 1 & 2.
Charlie you got a leak. Maybe in your pipe work underground.

Per chance do you have solar hot water


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It is unfair and against forum rules to cause members to drool into their keyboards!
 
And before anyone asks where to find Headmasters, WJ isn't in Thailand
 

ive gotta get a life


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Does this calculation include the pressure from the water storage tanks ?
2m meters tall ... will the spring be able to close it before the "hammer" comes ?
 
I'm thinking once the pump stops, the left-hand side will transition from
negative pressure (suction) to positive pressure, withing several milliseconds.
If the spring does not close the valve in time, The "hammer" effect will remain.
 
But the spring has to work against the 0.2 bar gravity-based pressure ... 
 
Did I miss something ?
 
Many Thanks,
rudi
 

With the check valve on the suction it will open when the pump kicks in and suction pressure at the pump drops below tank head pressure (20kPa).
With the check valve on the discharge it will open when the pump kicks in and discharge pressure goes above system pressure (350kPa).
And vice versa when it stops.
Draw a few pictures and think about it. 
Anyway up to Rudi.

A NRV on the discharge side will open at a pressure which equals -   the area of the disc X the system pressure (which is the pre-set cut in pressure ) the opening force on the valve will be the area of the disc X the pump discharge pressure, the pump discharge pressure is higher than the system pressure. 
A x P (pump) > A x P (system) 

A check valve on the suction will open and close at 20 kPa.

A check valve on the discharge will open and close at 350 kPa.

In a nutshell. 

Thanks Sipi

That's won me around to put it on the suction side

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Thank you for your message!  What do you think of the ball type check valves, they too
have a spring but are made from PVC ... or do you think the disc type is better?
 
Thanks,
rudi

Your premature failures is caused by the wrong valve for your application. The swing type of check valve relies on gravity or reverse flow to close. When the pump stops the water flow reverses causing the valve to close and the momentum of that reversing water hit the closed valve that's your water hammer damaging the valve. The better choice of check valve is a non slam valve with is a disc closed by a spring and the close before the water reverses direction. You may think the valves are not robust enough but it is the swing type causing the problem that contributes to is own demise. I have to agree with you the check valve will work either side of the pump in that setup.


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Why not look at putting a Small DC pump that switches over to when the power goes out that will give you "walking water" when power comes on it switches back to AC pump. Can possibly be done with 12 volts but definitely with 24. It's got to be easier than the tank on the roof. But if you already made up your mind.......


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Do you need to pair the remote with the board at startup

WARNING ..sorry about the capitals but i needed your attention....that is a storage device and it can hold a charge big enough to kill you. It does have a resistor to discharge it but whether it takes 5 seconds or 5 minutes I don't know. When you unplug it the prongs on the plug will be live for that time.. the resister is probably not rated for 220v so it can burn out making the discharge time longer.
Stay Safe
Cheers


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Charlie would need to turn off both the village water and the tank inlet to run that

6 hours ago, RichCor said:

Charlie Cabana stated they shut the water off at the meter when running the pump

My bad. Missed that bit

The jumper valve in the tap at the meter acted as a non return valve stopping water returning to the main. That the system worked at all is truly amazing and can only be attributed to the long runs of pipe between each component. If the ball cock in the tank is not sealed fully so it leaks water from the pressure side the pump then starts lowers the tank, opens the ball cock more so the pump is recycling to the tank, lifts the ball cock, pressure comes up and pump stops. Some where along the line the mains has to top up the system. Likens to grabbing your shoe laces and lifting yourself off the ground.


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16 minutes ago, Artisi said:

How much water do you use direct from the town supply (no pumping involved) - could be well worthwhile connecting the town supply directly to the tank and use the pump to supply the house 24/7. Unless you are using huge amounts of water the pumping costs will not break the bank and you can sleep easy without any worries .

If Charlie puts a cock in next to the new non return valve at X he can have it both ways

10 minutes ago, Crossy said:

total b0ll0cks

Is the tank not vented to atmosphere?