3STTW

Where can you buy rice wine in TH? I see it used in so many Thai recipes but I can't find it anywhere.

Maybe it's because I can't read Thai and the bottles are right there in the supermarket!

We have started growing a variety of edibles and the herbs, chilli's etc are all doing quite well. However our tomatoes and okra are suffering from kind of leaf parasite (see pic) and we don't know how to get rid of it.

Any ideas what it is and how to get rid of it?

5 minutes ago, Artisi said:

It's available on the net, I probably have it buried somewhere, but would be quicker to do a net search. 

The sizes are controlled by the pipe OD, with wall thickness changing based on pressure rating. 

The reason why I'm asking is that I downloaded a PDF a while back but on a recent visit to HomePro discovered that they're different. I must have seen about a dozen sites on the web, all with slightly different dimensions.

I'm trying to build a dust extraction setup for my workshop and it's really frustrating. I know I'm going to need to make some adapters but I'd like to know what I'm dealing with before I buy.

Last resort is I go back to HP and measure them with a vernier.

Does anyone have a list of all the blue water pipe dimensions including the OD/ID's, preferably all the fittings too?

52 minutes ago, Artisi said:

Looking at the corrosion on the tank, it might be approaching its use by date anyway, could already be a leak developed. 

That would suggest that the tank was leaking water or air pressure, there's no sign of either.

As I mentioned earlier, the 'ON' pressure is way below the tank precharge pressure which is contrary to the manufacturer's instructions and is the likely cause of original surging problem.

I'm going to have a crack at it tomorrow and see what happens.

29 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

I was wondering if the pump has a non return valve itself.

In Artisi's manual it is said in pipework note, it needs a non return valve in the suction of the pump.

The problem exist as from day 1, so it could be  the pump doesnt (included in pump) have that and all water flows back and then everything has to refilled again. So fitting a non return valve in the suction could end all problems. Maybe you have one but it is not working, wrong fitted? If so , see direction of the valve ( should be an arrow on it or so) , if it is fitted right.

Otherwise of course , from day 1, your expansion vessel is not working (broke), a leak inside of that vessel. Ok all was new but never the less it can happen or they didnt give it the right pressure.

Otherwise also could be , your watersystem (pipes in your house, or just anywhere in the outlet of the pumpsystem) has somewhere an air bubble, built up in a pipe. Air is compressible and effects your pumpsystem.

However doubt that is the case, but you never know, could cause problem.   

This is not an issue, all the upstairs faucets/showers come on instantly, albeit a low pressure, i.e. there is now draw-down in the system.

Thanks again for all your input. This is my situation as it stands; the current bladder pressure is 2.2 Bar and with everything off the system pressure (at the pump) is 2.4 Bar. When you turn on a downstairs faucet the pressure drops to 1.4 Bar and the pump kicks in, it takes about 5 seconds for the pump to reach 3.2 Bar, then it cuts out and there's a further 10-15 secs before the pump kicks in again.

If I do the same thing with an upstairs faucet the whole process takes a lot longer (presumably because of the head pressure).

Now, I measured the bladder pressure with my bike stirrup pump so, in reality, it's probably the same pressure that I'm reading from the pump gauge.

Here's the tank spec:

The GT-H manual says this:

That would suggest I increase the 'ON' pressure to 2.44 Bar and reduce the differential so I don't blow out my PVC pipe joints.

So I think we may have gotten to the crux of the problem.

Any thoughts?

Again, thanks for your advice guys. I've just found the pressure meter behind the water pump and I'll take some video tomorrow with the pump at standby and then with a faucet running.

47 minutes ago, Artisi said:

You have the best, Grundfos, looks like it has done a fair bit of work. 

My suggestion is get in the local pump guy to view it, there are a number things that need checking, the airpressure in the tank needs to be checked and at the correct pressure coupled with the pressure switch setting - not difficult if you know how to do it, a minefield if you don't. 

Okay, thanks for the advice. In the meantime I'll try and learn how these things work and have a crack at it myself, I've had a parade of 'local guys' doing stuff and every single job has turned to rat sh!t. My wife now has a ban on calling the 'local guy'!

I have a similar shape pool to yours and approximately the same size, I got a Maytronics S300 and it really is the mutt's nuts, like other respondents I couldn't live without it. If you add flocculant every week and run the robot the next day, you would not believe the amount of <deleted> it sucks out.

I do a black algae cycle about once every 3 months then I'll run the robot on two concurrent days and it is well worth it.

The manual says that you should not use the tether to haul it out of the pool, this is true but you can gently ease it up to the surface because it's only slightly negative buoyant. Then grab the handle and haul it out. Clean the filters immediately - don't let them dry out!

There's the demand pump on the left side, ignore the sprinkler and pool pumps top and right.

I have no idea how these things work but I'm guessing you guys will do the necessary.

And thanks for your quick replies!

I moved into my new house about a year ago and there's a water pressure issue that's been bugging me since day one. Basically, when you turn on a faucet or shower the pressure slowly dwindles to nothing and then demand pump kicks in for about 10 seconds and then the pressures declines, repeat, repeat, etc. If there's more than faucet/shower running at the same time the effect is even worse.

The main cause of this is that the storage tanks, demand pump (and the pressure switch) are located in an out-house 15m away from the main house, there are 3 upstairs bathrooms which will inevitably create their own back head pressure even when they're not in use and will obviously influence how the pressure switch works. Yes, I know, a sh!tty design but the pipes are all underground/walled-in and I can't relocate them without a serious amount of reconstruction. We also have a central water heater located downstairs which adds to the misery - it means I can't install a header tank in the attic without screwing up the hot/cold mix at the faucets.

I wonder if you guys know some way to remedy the problem to both increase the water pressure and even out the surging effect? 

The UK govt are talking about exporting a bunch of surplus vaccines to various countries under the COVAX scheme, yet there are swathes of Brits around the world who have received their appointments but can't get back due to the ongoing travel restrictions.

It would be make sense if the UK govt took their expats into consideration and distributed the AZ vaccine via their embassies. Fat chance.

Thankfully Sinovac appears to be effective against new strains.

What we need to know is if expats of a certain age will be treated in the same way as the general Thai population, it seems unlikely at this juncture and I can imagine that the vaccine will be only be available at a vastly inflated cost. I can pay Bht7k for me and the missus but I'm sure many expats cannot.

The information regarding the CAAT's policy on drones has been available on their website for some years and it's fairly explicit. You should also remember that you need a radio operators license as detailed on the CAAT site.

The application process was dreadful back in 2017 and one of my drones took 6 months until they admitted they had no record of the application. However, I understand that the process takes about 2-3 weeks at present. Nonetheless, you need to be in Thailand and have a permanent address here (not least for the insurance). You also need to have purchased the drone in Thailand, there are two reasons for this; primarily to ensure you have paid the appropriate import duty/VAT on the device and secondly that it complies with the Thai radio spectrum limitations.

Insurance is a complete ripoff because, if you comply with the flight regulations, your chances of incurring Bht1M damage to anything are right next to zero. I understand that premiums have settled down now that the tourist industry is dead but remember this: a drone policy will cost you c.Bht2500.00 per drone, but if you speak to the right people you can get a public liability policy for about the same - or less - which will cover you for flying drones in general (not just one).

Going back to the CAAT regulations, if you fly a drone in or around Bangkok, there is a very high percentage that you will get caught (or snitched)  - similarly with airports, palaces and other sensitive areas. However, I have seen the locals flying them around tourist spots ad lib with no regard to the proximity regulations detailed on the CAAT site. In many cases tourist hotels are using visitors' drone footage for their own websites.

To my mind the CAAT regs are justified. The insurance/duty/VAT b***ocks is yet another scam to fleece tourists, nomads and professional media types. Provided you have the insurance, many of the proximity limitations are pointless.

Singapore is the way to go, I had one in HKG a while back and the fees are horrendous. 
 

Singapore has a minimum deposit regulation of SGD200k as was stated earlier but this can be in any form - cash, gold, bonds, funds or any other investment instruments. Also the customer service is A++, one SMS and I can get my account manager to call back immediately.

.

Another upside is you get full access to all major investment markets outside the EU - including the US. 
 

As you are in Thailand, there are really two alternatives; HSBC or Citibank but I would forget the former on ethical grounds. I can send you relevant contact details if you wish.

If the 200k is a bit too much for a cheap Charlie, you can always buy or establish a Singapore company and nominate yourself as a director, this will then allow  you access to standard retail banking in the State. Last time I looked, this process cost <SGD4000. You will need a local co-director but these can be provided by the broker. You also get eligibility for PR status and this can be very handy under certain circumstances.

There are annual costs involved - mainly to comply with corporate performance regulations but the benefits, not to mention the possibilities, are well with it.

On 12/31/2020 at 5:59 PM, jimrod said:

I don't want to start another thread. I'm looking for a basic place to get wood in Pattaya. Any ideas?

I'm looking for the same. There's a place on Theprasit Rd on the left as you're heading towards the beach, it looks like a bog-standard hardware shop until you look into the back where they have a pretty substantial warehouse full of MDF, plywood, melamine boards.

However, if like me, you're looking for actual wood you might want to try a place up Sukhumvit at Bang Lamung just past Toyota GND Chon Buri Head Office (heading north), there's this place...

I noticed it when I was driving to Laem Chabang a few weeks ago. I took a ride up there last Thursday but it was shut (not sure if it was due to Covid or NY) but this is high on my list.

Stanley, Bosch, Makita and DeWalt. I've been getting mine from Thaidee Homemart on Lazada, who have been super reliable and way cheaper than Homepro and Thai Watsadu.

Wot no Dave Gilmour? How about Eric Johnson and the jack of all trades, Guthrie Govan (check out Erotic Cakes).

Good to see Mason Williams in the mix, the guitar part for the original Classical Gas earned me a fail on my Grade 6 because it’s so dull without the haut production. Mason makes amends and kills it!

Petrucci though? Urgh, along with Bonamassa they’ve learned to paint by numbers and they’re so good at it, it’s like listening to something you’ve heard a million times before.

13 hours ago, Crossy said:

Task A is going to be to decide exactly what you want to achieve and are you going to go DIY or employ a contractor.

 

A simple entry level grid-tie DIY of 4 panels on home-built stands and a 1200W grid-tie inverter will give you 4-5 kWh per day and can be simply plugged in to a regular outlet and start offsetting your bills for 10-12k Baht.

 

Where are you going to put your panels? Ours are conveniently on the car-port (deliberately designed and positioned for the purpose) so they're easy to get at, the inverter lives just under the car port roof (we have no batteries as yet, but there's space for them in the same area).

 

If you can get on the PEA FIT you won't need batteries unless you want a hybrid system which can provide emergency power when the mains is off. Last time I looked there was only one hybrid inverter on the PEA approvals list, but at least there was one.

 

16kWh of batteries is going to be about 350Ah @ 48V of LiFePO4 (double that for lead-acid), probably about 3 grand US just for the batteries ????   I agree I wouldn't want that much energy stored in the house! 

 

The best deals for batteries are on AliBaba or AliExpress although there are an increasing number on Lazada (check out the other solar threads for links).

My initial objective was to produce at least twice as much power as I use during the day and use the feed in tariff to offset what I use at night. As things stand, this would probably reduce my bill by about 70% at best.

I have 72 sq.m of flat roof over my garage and probably the same again on a SW facing house extension, so no shortage of space. 
 

I’m not overly inclined to get into all the PEA nonsense of registering and committing to long-term contracts, I’ve had enough pain from them over the last few years and I’m not going to sign up for more. Therefore, I’m going to go with the reverse meter plan from the outset - with a commitment to add batteries as soon as possible.

I will be doing some modifications to the house and I’ve updated the plans to include a battery room (1.2 x 2.4m) which will be adjacent to the storage room where the existing DB is. I can put all the other ancillary electronics in there too.

Regarding the installation, I’ll get an installer to put the panels up and I’ll do the electrics myself.