Metropolitian

People currently in Thailand on a Non-O (Volunteer) visa / extension.

 

Those with expired visa's or reached the maximum extensions during the 'amnesty' period and under the 50 and not married to Thai.

What are you doing or what can you do ?

 

5 hours ago, bluesofa said:

 

Nom sod (นมสด) to me means fresh milk. Asking for that in a shop will usually get you a tin of Carnation (very) sweetened milk.

Explaining I want it to put in hot tea results in the shopkeeper agreeing, and still pointing to the Carnation milk.

I have to ask for nom jud (นมจืด) - plain milk. Often the small shops will only have Thai-Denmark UHT long-life milk in a blue carton, (although I still get offered the sweetened version of Thai-Denmark UHT milk in a green carton).

When i ordered nomsod-whannoi (นมสด หวานน้อย) I get the mix with evaporated milk. Which is not made with the thick sweetened milk but from those tin which is taller.

 

4 hours ago, bluesofa said:

4 hours ago, colinneil said:

Well Bluesofa your gonna have a BIG problem if/ when you visit me.

Putting milk in tea.... Yuk, why adulterate a good cuppa tea with milk?

I've always put milk in tea. It's the way I was dragged brought up.

Perhaps coming from the midlands we were used to showing off that we had money, not like you the impoverished north.

So you was brought up with the royal Doulton with the hand painted periwinkles. ????

 

I'm now imagining you and Colin in the roles of Hyacinth and Elizabeth 555

 

I was also brought up with milk in our tea, sometime fresh milk from the farm next door.  Babytea I called it.

When I got older and bored with the tea scum left in the mug and decide that it was time to get rid of the 'baby' part of it,  it was then plain tea all the way for the rest of my life.

Mom still pours loads of milk in hers.

 

I start my day with coffee and (cow) milk, and that milk which is used only for coffee or scrambled eggs and pancakes comes from either BC or TL as long it has short shelf life not those long-shelf-life packs.

Nothing to worry.

 

Energy from the source.

 

Friend probably living near one of those dams.

4 hours ago, Max Brok said:

I wish to install a SPD in a existing CU.

This CU is equipped with a Main MCB 50 A, RCD 0.03mA and 6 breakers 16 and 20 A.

The unit have a good earth, a rod of 2.7 mts and wire 10 mm square with MEN system on Neutral.

The main is 1 phase 1 Neutral.

 

Which SPD I have to buy? I have 2 pictures of SPD Type2 as example

As replied by Crossy that you have a MEN system and you are sure that you have good earth, then indeed the first one is enough.

It's not really overkill to go for the second one, it depends on the space still left in the CU.

Even with good earth, it is still possible to have a spike on the neutral, especially if the rod and CU are not close to each other there will still be a resistance in the 10mm wire.

 

The one you found the L and N has different characteristic, it IS for situation with men.  The SPD for the Neutral will catch all spikes above 255 volt while the L part starts conducting above 275 volts.

 

You even can use both L and N, on the same line. It works then as double protection, the same as in Crossy's reply 'I would also scatter some good quality plug-in units on your critical technology'.

But the one you found , with the N side reacting on 255 volt is made for neutral that has a link to earth in the CU.

 

I use SPD's which catchs spikes at 385 volts and 420 volts in the sub panels and 275 volt in the main unit.

 

 

Quote

How to install them and what is the difference between them?

Difference is explained above, and installation is depending on the situation in your CU.

 

If you post a picture of your CU, also opened with the wiring visible, I/we are able to draw it out for you.

 

The question is like where the live bar is, and how the main breaker is wired and if there is an rcbo behind it.

 

Roughly explained, the bottom, earth terminal need to be connected to the earth busbar, the L to the live busbar that's coming out the main breaker and the N to the Neutral busbar which is not the main incoming neutral but is the one which is connected to the RCBO if that is there.

And that is where the story can be complicated without knowing the situation, if in the same CU the earth and neutral is bonded there is really not much use of the second style SPD when there is no RCBO behind the main breaker, but it is in sub-CU's.

 

 

8 hours ago, sucher said:

So, the new Meter arrived. When I look at it and look at my opened up Breaker box.... It seams not complicated at all. If you know what you doing or seen it done before. ????

I would replace the box ???? but as long if the breakers are not structurally damaged keep it.

 

And as suspected already, no earthing to your sockets, or maybe it is but twisted together somewhere else as though the casing seems to be earthed

 

Please remove the screws,  brrrr ...

 

Not complicated indeed, especially if you mount the meter on top of the consumer unit, then you only need to cut the cable which goes to breaker 3 and neutral bar, and connect the meter in between.

 

Quote

????

 

Make sure the live wire (GREY wire) is connected to the outer terminals and neutral wire (BLACK wires) connected to the inner two terminals.

 

EDIT:  Be careful and work with the mains OFF.

In doubt, just ask an techie to do it for you. For 200-300 thb many will do that for you.

 

EDIT2: make sure you get the right cable, it seems there are two going to the 3rd breaker.

Or are both going to the sub box in the room? Please post a pic of that box and inside of it.

 

 

To soldier or to sodder, that's the question.

On 8/27/2020 at 6:13 PM, snoop1130 said:

“[Submarines] are not meant for combat with any country.

For what then, watering the flowers on sea? Or aiding in flooded areas?

They better put the money on rescue boats.

 

On 8/27/2020 at 6:13 PM, snoop1130 said:

They are a strategic weapon to protect sovereignty,” he said,

So they are meant for combat with any county.

 

On 8/27/2020 at 6:13 PM, snoop1130 said:

adding that, “everybody will be held responsible for the consequences” of failure to procure the “strategic weapon”.

So better worded; if there will be combats coming and no submarines available, they are held responsible.. 

 

 

 

 

On 8/27/2020 at 6:13 PM, snoop1130 said:

plan to buy two more China-made subs.

....

Thailand used to have a fleet of four submarines – all built in Japan – but these were decommissioned in 1951, according to the Navy.

The reporting ..

 

How many subs does Thailand have ? Zero.

In the report : ' buy two more '  , so they have already bought subs in the (previous) deal.

 

Or is it wrong reporting and it's about buying another (2nd) sub on top of one sub already acknowledged in the deal?

 

 

proost / skål / cheers

2 hours ago, carlyai said:

Question Time.

1. The motor is capacity start, am I correct in thinking the motor wouldn't start if the capacitor was faulty? 

2. Could the capacitor cause the motor to be lacking in power once it is running?

3. If the motor was faulty then it shouldn't run, unless it has some short circuited windings then runs without much ooommmffff?

4. I think the problem is the motor and when the unit or extraction fan hood is all assembled in place, there are filters on the fan inlet and plastice doors that have to open on the fan output and I don't think the fan runs strong enough to create the wind required. Could this be correct?

Answers time ????

 

1. Yes and no, the question should be 'capacity run' ;   On AC, single phase motors need a capacitor and bigger motors need an extra capacitor for starting with bigger torque.

Called run- and starting- capacitor.  The exhaust fan, in your case, only use an run-capacitor

 

2. Once it runs, the starting capacitor should be disconnected (automatic) and only the run capacitor is kept connected.

 

3. If the run capacitor fails, even good ones but with wrong values, the secondary winding isn't energized according the speed and momentary which will make the motor loose 'oomph'.

It's like an combustible engine, when the spark is timed wrong and instead of trying to burn the compressed fuel mixture on the right moment but say 75 degrees off, the engine can stall or sputter and there will be no pulling force. Timing is important to 'spark' eg. energize-secondary-winding and that's what the capacitor do for you.

 

5. The plastic doors should be easy opened with a low air pressure, but closed when there is no airflow so that critters won't be able to go in from outside. The spring has to have that enough force to lift the plastic, and nothing more.

Is the issue happening when you start the exhaust fan on highest setting?

Only when starting with 1 or 2, the lowest suction?

 

An historic reason old ventilators with slider switch start with high and then low, is that motors starting better on the highest setting and once they are spinning fine the user can choose a lower speed.

 

Try to replace the capacitor, an comment other members already said and I agree with.

 

Another thing, there can be something wrong with the ball bearings, which explains that it will work once it sits on the bench. The gravitational force (Z) on the axis is different positioned.

Check the spinning of the motor (not connected to the electic) by hand, is there difference when you hold the motor the other way?

2 hours ago, vacajan said:

I have been staying here for 6 years and from now on I can no longer go to my home country because I cannot enter Thailand afterwards. After all, it is impossible to take out insurance after your 75th birthday. I made attempts to buy health insurance from my arrival here six years ago. The exclusions were such that insurance became ridiculous. The expat insurance with AXA, which I was able to take out, was canceled this year.
Someone a solution? I have a wife, a home and a family here that I take care of.

Vertaald uit het Nederlands

Have you already asked at OOM?

Not sure about their policy regarding aged 75 and up but maybe worth asking if not already done.

3 hours ago, madmitch said:

So why is the water on the space photos blue when everyone can clearly see it should be muddy brown????

It's a mirror image of the air/sky above the water.

When you looking at water from the side, you will see the color of the water as the mirroring effect of the water layer is low.

When you look directly on the top, the mirroring effect is at its highest so what you actually see is the 'blue' sky and the water is still brown.

At 1800 watt it will pull 8 amps.

 

Wiring: 1.5mm2 will do the job fine but 2.5mm2 for L and N , and 1,5mm2 for earth is suggested.

Then you will even able to add another socket for something else without worrying about the load on the wires.

 

Wire from consumer unit to an outlet under the staircase.

 

It will not radiate heat, the heat will be blowed out from under, with many heaters like this one the heating element is built under the decorative thing.

The switches are mostly behind the door and you can turn it on as decorative lights with and without the heating function.

 

No need for special red bricks.

As long there is enough air circulation around it, especially from under and behind. So putting it inside a wall is not an option.

 

Safety is built in, if the air blocks or gets too hot (above 70 degrees inside) it will turns off.

Also tilting it will turn it off.

 

^  Both will give you the usage of the room, yep.

 

The first one you still need a enclosure, but it gives more information like voltage and amps along with counting the kWh usage.

 

The second device is analog and you will still be able to read it when the electric is cut. ????

 

5(15) is not for big houses with a lot of appliances.

An aircon, tv and some lights will work fine on that with good accuracy on the measuring.

 

For only the room, it is good.

 

Well... today was better then yesterday ????

 

This setup 3x300w panels ongrid.

1 hour ago, sucher said:

 

It looks like, according the text under breaker 3, that this is the Consumer Unit of your condo. Right?

Is the box/CU in the room the same type or an DIN type?

 

14 minutes ago, sucher said:

So I can use this Sub-meter with my existing Box, right? 

Not hard. Yes.

 

14 minutes ago, sucher said:

Where can I now get this Meter?

A lot sources, like Lazada, Shop24, eBay, ali and Shopee.

 

I like to order trough Shopee.  Easy to pay, good protection, overview, promotions,..

The main desktop website is in Thai and if you can't read Thai then use the application on your phone which offers both Thai and English language.

A search result on 'kwh meter' will give you a lot options, it is the best to keep the words counts low as there are many sellers, even the overseas ones,  are posting in Thai language.

 

 

Check the text under each picture under the stars in the right-bottom. and when you read 'ต่างประเทศ' that is delivery from outside Thailand, which is cheaper but also longer waiting.

If the text says 'จังหวัด...' or you click on 'ภายในประเทศ'(in the search filter on the left) then delivery will be faster as the item is in stock in Thailand.

On the phone apps it's in English, 'overseas' = cheaper and longer waiting for the item to be delivered.

 

From overseas 175-250 thb. From Thai seller +-550thb.

 

I got mine from overseas and had to wait 2 weeks once and another came after 30 days.

 

 

The box, I already had. Took it from my origin country.  It's a 3 gang Schneider, which came with the solar installation.

 

Boxes I always ordered from sellers in Thailand, they are produced here.

I did a search but didn't see small one like the one I have.  But on Lazada there is one.

 

Consider replacing the Square D box for a neat DIN box with all breakers and the kWh counter combined together.

Will cost you no more than 800thb excluding installation, example box complete with breakers.  (And with RCBO safety here)

 

14 minutes ago, sucher said:

I am not good with Electrical Stuff. You think I can install this? 

Perhaps you better ask the condo management or an 'aircon-fitter' / 'village-spark' to install for you for a pocket money say 500thb most will do.

 

 

 

 

* nb , text with underlines are links to the pages with the search results ????

 

 

This is here right under a 4 gang Square D box.

 

 

Eventually it will move into the square D when two groups finally has moved to a new box in another room.

It will then freely 'float' in the box which will be fine as it weight nothing, doesn't has moving parts and it doesn't need to be connected to the click-on live bar as it will be fed with a jumper wire from a breaker.

20 minutes ago, sucher said:

This is my Breaker Box. Looks like a Square D? 

Yep it is,  a click on system.

The kWh meters for DIN rail won't fit in this box properly.

Not impossible though but not suggested for starters.

 

An option and the best is to replace the box OR put another small box for only the meter next to it.

 

 

Are both the boxes (room and condo) the same type?

 

 

 

Three options:

 

• An external meter, like the Mitsubishi mf-33e which is pretty accurate, the utility provider are using those too. Hook'd up between the condo box and room box.
• An internal energy usage counter in your condo box
• An internal energy usage counter in the box that's in the room.

The latter two , is convenient if the box is the type 'DIN' and comes in various shapes, mostly two-gang/slot wide.

 

But as already said, they are sometimes not very accurate over time but also not far off.

For quick reading and over a short period like a month they are pretty accurate to say.

 

Even official meters can loose it's accuracy over time and eligible for replacement if the error is greater than 3%.

If they are within the 1% error after manufacturing then they are sold as class B and pretty much the utility company uses those a lot.

Add tunnel vision to the list too.. especially for those who are lock-staring on their 'GPS'.

 

_{*search for 6 wheeler truck driver on last week news in this forum}

This time another item from the parts box; an tosti machine which has failed.

 

It is pretty new, no scratched and the three teflon sets are still unused.

I I went on and opened the thing to look what could be possibly wrong with it.

Measured all the connection and everything was ok, also the cord has all three wires and earth is connected to all iron parts.

 

Only one thing wasn't working. The thermostat.   In this particular device it is an KSD301 which trips and autoresets on 155 C.

 

Will replace that and to follow the theme of this thread, I've found a youtube video which shows the KSD 301 thermostat as well another one which need to be reset'd manually, the 90PM1.

 

The autoreset one are mostly found in your microwaves, ovens, pumps while the manual reset you can find in your shower water heater.

 

 

The first 5 minutes is informative, showing what they both do and how they work.

After 5 minutes the tear down begins for who want to see the insides.

 

 

9 minutes ago, JackThompson said:

* It is not an "amnesty" - it is an automatic-extension of your existing permitted-stay.

 

 

Then the IO did had made up their own words.

 

They said; ' Your visa and extension is expired in May. You leave. 26th September next month.' followed up with  'No 90 day reporting for you. Because visa expired. Leave 26 September.'