bearded_bluto

I see something called a floating bus bar when using google, If not that then how does the Live from the main breaker get distributed to the individual breakers? I am picturing 10 wires jammed into a a terminal. lol If it is indeed a "floating bus bar", then I would think it would be included with the consumer unit for the number of slots?

So with a din type there must be I am guessing 3 bus bars for single phase? And the plug in type, which is what I have now (square D) has the bar for clipping the breaker in and 2 bus bars (earth and neutral)? I noticed I have a couple breakers way oversized for the 2.5mm cable. I am amazed at how cheap and available everything is. For the isolation switch I was looking at "ABB Switch-Isolator WSD Series switch" on shopee, 63A. According to the stories I hear around me the PEA people want to wiring, I may just order the stuff and let them install it, What I am thinking --> Isolation switch box --> transfer switch unit (future proofing) --> consumer unit. Then inside the din type consumer unit >> surge protection (2 slots), under over voltage (2 slots), main breaker (2 slots) without earth leakage detection, then the individual breakers with earth leakage (30mA). If I didn't mention it this is single phase. Would all that put me over the target in your opinion?

Any recommendations for a brand? I bought some safe-T-cut switch/breakers a few years back, I think its made in Thailand and they have some consumer box/panels in the stores around me. So if I understand if its din then I can buy whatever and throw it in whatever box as long as its a din box/rail and din breaker etc.? I liked the look of the square D/Schneider with each breaker having their own rccb with fixed 30 or 10ma for choice. I would go with 30ma. The ones I looked at in the stores seem to use just the main breaker, so if that trips your house is dark I guess.

What happens if there is a fault with the incoming neutral, the ground at some pole outside?, I feel like in that situation your ground in your home becomes the new village ground/neutral. I'm certainly no expert but that is my first impression. Seems complicated to me. PEA reversed my neutral and Live at the meter a few years back, by accident I suppose, but that would really complicate the above diagram i think.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll update in a couple weeks with what I did.

On my list of things to do in the future has arrived. Been dealing with termites. Currently ripping off drywall and studs, in the spot where the underground power cable comes into the house. I currently have just a square D box, nothing fancy like earth fault detection (rccb?). I have single phase 30A meter connection. I would like to change the breakers to rccb type (30ma) a whole house surge protection, ayne 2 transfer switches or one 3 way (one for solar and one for diesel genset andthen the mains) and perhaps a main cutoff switch. Is this overkill? If its not broke leave it alone is on my mind. Is the surge protection worth it? My cheapest route would just be to change the breakers to rccb type and forget the rest. There is so much lighting during the rainy season and I feel like I am way overdue for induction or a powerline strike nearby.

I poked around again today, I guessed maybe there could be induction on the "communication wire". nope. The plan is to try and get a tech guy to come out tomorrow. If not... I guess I will just buy another split if I cant proceed, and make sure to have the new installation guy bring a recovery machine out. I'll just give this unit away or try to sell it to the new install guy. Any advice on something other than Samsung. I heard Daikin is good. I would like to find one that is: --Super easy to clean- I mean being able to pull out the long tubular blower fan in less then 5 minutes, no crazy panel plastic clips that break off either. Able to wipe the drain tray and the area behind the blower fan. --Plastics that do not turn yellow when it sees a bit of sunlight. --KISS - Simple with the same model used for a few years so you know you can find parts in the future. So tired of disposable appliances. --Documented - schematics, part lists - not hidden away behind paywalls or for technicians only, Wire terminals that are clearly marked L | N | G | Sensor | Etc... This AC does not come close to those 4 things. Who here knows of such a split air machine? I did see a solar powered one made in Thailand I believe. Sounds really nice, and I believe its a cassette type. According to the website you can have it only hooked up to 6 or 7 panels (included I think) and the machine will turn off and on when voltage crosses thresholds. Seems nice not having to loose power converting AC to DC. Thoughts? Thanks for all the replies so far.

Ah Sacred secret knowledge of the HVAC guys. Their first reply from a HVAC (not stack exchange) is always 'Aye toni got a license for that?' lol In retrospect your right.

One of my split air conditioners has stopped working. Rather then troubleshooting a bunch I just threw a new mainboard into it. Then I swapped out both indoor and outdoor boards with a identical ac unit in the home. Then I thought maybe its the eeprom unit, so I bought the eeprom chip for 200 baht and put it into the socket so it would upload. The board seems like its only interested in flashing the error led lights. The error code flashing on the outdoor unit translates to OTP Error. From the manual: 1.Checklist : 1) Is there a short around micom? 2) Is there a short around IC502? 3) Did you download or insert EEPROM IC, after changing outdoor PBA? The manual says check for shorts somewhere. I did get a good shock on the ladder doing my usual short cut stuff hot dogging it while handling the main board outside. I don't have the equipment to recapture the gas, I do and can fill refrigerant or if I could get the compressor to turn on I can do a pump down in order to relocate the indoor unit. I'm just saying that incase its some sensor on the compressor. I could not change that. This is a Samsung ASV10PUM model. The boards are good I think since I put working boards from a different ac. The compressor does not turn on and the error flashing on outdoor unit is OTP Error. I have invested about 5-6k baht in my usually guessing. I don't really want to spend 8 more hours with a multimeter on a ladder with more guessing, plus I am finding it difficult to find a AC repair guy to come out to the villages. They seem only interested for new installs. Anyone have any guesses or suggestions? The electrical parts lists IC502 as: SOCKET-IC;8P,SN,2.54mm, i believe that is the empty eeprom socket that I can put a chip in to reupload the instructions. I did try that to recap. Is this a sensor problem? Would a compressor that had a overheated cause this? One thing I do not like about this AC is that the wire terminals for the mains are not clear. There are 3 terminals and the markings are | N(1) | 1 | 2 | That is confusing to me, also the unit is not grounded, that does not surprise me.