bearded_bluto

Thanks gramps, dont forget your pills in the morning. I don't assume everybody is a retard, you might be surprised. 100% sure I am a neophyte in your sawmill.

I can't edit my comment, but I just thought about another issue perhaps, some bloke like myself will someday assume the light is off to do something to the fixture of that light, grab a chair/ladder, get on chair/ladder with bare feet and proceed to plug in meter to both wires, ahh zero volts, get good ol screwdriver out and then if both switches happen to be Lines I get a rude awakening. lol

Thanks, I believe you, I like to learn. Edited: I was thinking what happens if one wire is longer, would that cause the 50hz to not osculate at the same time? Just wondering if both Lines would be in sync. I can see no problem with DC like you said for PC circuit boards, just curious,

Looking again I see that some of the din type stuff is not really all on the same specifications. -So first off the "floating bus var" does not line up with all the terminals on the modules, lesson? Probably stay with the same brand to avoid that issue. -Second issue I see is the modules are not even for the front panel to fit over. I did manage to get the cover on but there should be a code or something so all manufactures keep their stuff in sync with the rest. -The transfer switch while its a din rail type is way to big for this box, guess its my fault, it must be for some other standard. I included a couple pictures including a breaker upside down, just to show everyone. I guess if your off to the races, maybe stick with one brand?

No, if you throw the switch on left you have two lives (line(s)) going to your light, not good. edit: oh wait your saying you think this is the mistake in your drawing? You may be right then, I was thinking (behind the walls) inductance reasoning as to save wiring they may have used the ground wire in the middle for something other than ground if they used AC wiring with 3 wires and not the usual 2 (the usual for lights) L&N. Ask me how I know. lol (I did this and mine stay dimly lit depending on the type of light) lesson learned. lol

I have these, your probably going to need to change it over to a led. The led ones are just a circular board with magnetic screws, so you will remove the ballast, starter and tube, and the clips that hold the tube, install led board and driver. Mine are trouble free maybe ~7 years.

I think your talking about a "(X2) Single Pole, Double Throw" switches. If two switches control one light, and you have some flickering or one stays lit very dim you may have induction on one of the wires, usually half voltage, so around 110 with multi meter. I cant comment on this since I can only do this wiring myself and only if I draw everything out on paper and label wires. There is a bunch of smarty pants on this forum though. :-)

That is a big pump if it eats ~14,000 watts on single phase. Was it a rcbo type breaker? Maybe there is a small fault in the motor? Edit: Nevermind, just read rest of thread, 450 watt motor...

Well I am just tinkering with this today, looking at the components. I have two questions if anybody here knows the answer, 1) The Main Breaker type BTicino (40A) is not marked IN or OUT, I assume I go what ever way I want then?, which if true is good since I prefer the L&N IN to be the bottom just for that main breaker. (Two components left and right of it have IN on the top) 2) Can I stack the floating bus bar? I also seen this on shopee which I guess is also stacking, but thought I should ask here. (since shopee wants everyone to log in before showing the item just google----> บัสบาร์ ตู้ คอนซูเมอร์ กันดูด (M-04) Well here is another one google--> "Hugepeaktion 1/2P ประเภทพินบัสบาร ์ ทองแดงเทอร ์ มินัลบล ็ อกสําหรับ MCB DZ47 Air Switch Connector 63A Circuit Breaker Connector Nice" So Ill just say its most likely fine since this looks legit and tidy too me.

Maybe your water pressure is to low or the valve after the hot water heater is restricted, leaking or opened to little. The water needs to be moving though these things, these on demand heaters like your picture have a sensor that detects flowing water, when water is flowing it allows the heating element to kick on. However if its a trickle the flow detector may allow the heating element to turn on, but it over heats and destroys itself. Just my thought. Maybe someone else has turned water on in the yard while your showing or something like that? On your diagram the flow detection is third one up from right bottom. Heating element is first on the top left. I re-read your post, maybe when washing plates turn water on fully and make sure the faucet end is not clogged? They sell new heating elements on. lazada and shopee

Got some of the stuff today. The blanks that cover the unused slots I guess can be in halfs. Also in the picture is the floating bus bar, looks like you just cut it to the size you want. Last 4.2 is what I am hoping the freelance PEA tech uses on my install. KISS (keep it simple stupid). Waiting for 2 more items.

I see a neutral bar on top and a ground bar on left. Use multimeter to be sure. I'm no expert, but the wire looks too small for your main breaker 50A and the 32A one. Very colorful. Looks like a ouchy or soon to be funeral to me.

I ordered my stuff yesterday. One slot on a din rail is 18mm if anybody is trying to calculate space needed for larger modules. I think the din itself is 35mm also called eu din.

I see something called a floating bus bar when using google, If not that then how does the Live from the main breaker get distributed to the individual breakers? I am picturing 10 wires jammed into a a terminal. lol If it is indeed a "floating bus bar", then I would think it would be included with the consumer unit for the number of slots?

So with a din type there must be I am guessing 3 bus bars for single phase? And the plug in type, which is what I have now (square D) has the bar for clipping the breaker in and 2 bus bars (earth and neutral)? I noticed I have a couple breakers way oversized for the 2.5mm cable. I am amazed at how cheap and available everything is. For the isolation switch I was looking at "ABB Switch-Isolator WSD Series switch" on shopee, 63A. According to the stories I hear around me the PEA people want to wiring, I may just order the stuff and let them install it, What I am thinking --> Isolation switch box --> transfer switch unit (future proofing) --> consumer unit. Then inside the din type consumer unit >> surge protection (2 slots), under over voltage (2 slots), main breaker (2 slots) without earth leakage detection, then the individual breakers with earth leakage (30mA). If I didn't mention it this is single phase. Would all that put me over the target in your opinion?