bearded_bluto

Thanks gramps, dont forget your pills in the morning. I don't assume everybody is a retard, you might be surprised. 100% sure I am a neophyte in your sawmill.

I can't edit my comment, but I just thought about another issue perhaps, some bloke like myself will someday assume the light is off to do something to the fixture of that light, grab a chair/ladder, get on chair/ladder with bare feet and proceed to plug in meter to both wires, ahh zero volts, get good ol screwdriver out and then if both switches happen to be Lines I get a rude awakening. lol

Thanks, I believe you, I like to learn. Edited: I was thinking what happens if one wire is longer, would that cause the 50hz to not osculate at the same time? Just wondering if both Lines would be in sync. I can see no problem with DC like you said for PC circuit boards, just curious,

Looking again I see that some of the din type stuff is not really all on the same specifications. -So first off the "floating bus var" does not line up with all the terminals on the modules, lesson? Probably stay with the same brand to avoid that issue. -Second issue I see is the modules are not even for the front panel to fit over. I did manage to get the cover on but there should be a code or something so all manufactures keep their stuff in sync with the rest. -The transfer switch while its a din rail type is way to big for this box, guess its my fault, it must be for some other standard. I included a couple pictures including a breaker upside down, just to show everyone. I guess if your off to the races, maybe stick with one brand?

No, if you throw the switch on left you have two lives (line(s)) going to your light, not good. edit: oh wait your saying you think this is the mistake in your drawing? You may be right then, I was thinking (behind the walls) inductance reasoning as to save wiring they may have used the ground wire in the middle for something other than ground if they used AC wiring with 3 wires and not the usual 2 (the usual for lights) L&N. Ask me how I know. lol (I did this and mine stay dimly lit depending on the type of light) lesson learned. lol

I have these, your probably going to need to change it over to a led. The led ones are just a circular board with magnetic screws, so you will remove the ballast, starter and tube, and the clips that hold the tube, install led board and driver. Mine are trouble free maybe ~7 years.

I think your talking about a "(X2) Single Pole, Double Throw" switches. If two switches control one light, and you have some flickering or one stays lit very dim you may have induction on one of the wires, usually half voltage, so around 110 with multi meter. I cant comment on this since I can only do this wiring myself and only if I draw everything out on paper and label wires. There is a bunch of smarty pants on this forum though. :-)

That is a big pump if it eats ~14,000 watts on single phase. Was it a rcbo type breaker? Maybe there is a small fault in the motor? Edit: Nevermind, just read rest of thread, 450 watt motor...

Well I am just tinkering with this today, looking at the components. I have two questions if anybody here knows the answer, 1) The Main Breaker type BTicino (40A) is not marked IN or OUT, I assume I go what ever way I want then?, which if true is good since I prefer the L&N IN to be the bottom just for that main breaker. (Two components left and right of it have IN on the top) 2) Can I stack the floating bus bar? I also seen this on shopee which I guess is also stacking, but thought I should ask here. (since shopee wants everyone to log in before showing the item just google----> บัสบาร์ ตู้ คอนซูเมอร์ กันดูด (M-04) Well here is another one google--> "Hugepeaktion 1/2P ประเภทพินบัสบาร ์ ทองแดงเทอร ์ มินัลบล ็ อกสําหรับ MCB DZ47 Air Switch Connector 63A Circuit Breaker Connector Nice" So Ill just say its most likely fine since this looks legit and tidy too me.

Maybe your water pressure is to low or the valve after the hot water heater is restricted, leaking or opened to little. The water needs to be moving though these things, these on demand heaters like your picture have a sensor that detects flowing water, when water is flowing it allows the heating element to kick on. However if its a trickle the flow detector may allow the heating element to turn on, but it over heats and destroys itself. Just my thought. Maybe someone else has turned water on in the yard while your showing or something like that? On your diagram the flow detection is third one up from right bottom. Heating element is first on the top left. I re-read your post, maybe when washing plates turn water on fully and make sure the faucet end is not clogged? They sell new heating elements on. lazada and shopee

Got some of the stuff today. The blanks that cover the unused slots I guess can be in halfs. Also in the picture is the floating bus bar, looks like you just cut it to the size you want. Last 4.2 is what I am hoping the freelance PEA tech uses on my install. KISS (keep it simple stupid). Waiting for 2 more items.

I see a neutral bar on top and a ground bar on left. Use multimeter to be sure. I'm no expert, but the wire looks too small for your main breaker 50A and the 32A one. Very colorful. Looks like a ouchy or soon to be funeral to me.

I ordered my stuff yesterday. One slot on a din rail is 18mm if anybody is trying to calculate space needed for larger modules. I think the din itself is 35mm also called eu din.

I see something called a floating bus bar when using google, If not that then how does the Live from the main breaker get distributed to the individual breakers? I am picturing 10 wires jammed into a a terminal. lol If it is indeed a "floating bus bar", then I would think it would be included with the consumer unit for the number of slots?

So with a din type there must be I am guessing 3 bus bars for single phase? And the plug in type, which is what I have now (square D) has the bar for clipping the breaker in and 2 bus bars (earth and neutral)? I noticed I have a couple breakers way oversized for the 2.5mm cable. I am amazed at how cheap and available everything is. For the isolation switch I was looking at "ABB Switch-Isolator WSD Series switch" on shopee, 63A. According to the stories I hear around me the PEA people want to wiring, I may just order the stuff and let them install it, What I am thinking --> Isolation switch box --> transfer switch unit (future proofing) --> consumer unit. Then inside the din type consumer unit >> surge protection (2 slots), under over voltage (2 slots), main breaker (2 slots) without earth leakage detection, then the individual breakers with earth leakage (30mA). If I didn't mention it this is single phase. Would all that put me over the target in your opinion?

Any recommendations for a brand? I bought some safe-T-cut switch/breakers a few years back, I think its made in Thailand and they have some consumer box/panels in the stores around me. So if I understand if its din then I can buy whatever and throw it in whatever box as long as its a din box/rail and din breaker etc.? I liked the look of the square D/Schneider with each breaker having their own rccb with fixed 30 or 10ma for choice. I would go with 30ma. The ones I looked at in the stores seem to use just the main breaker, so if that trips your house is dark I guess.

What happens if there is a fault with the incoming neutral, the ground at some pole outside?, I feel like in that situation your ground in your home becomes the new village ground/neutral. I'm certainly no expert but that is my first impression. Seems complicated to me. PEA reversed my neutral and Live at the meter a few years back, by accident I suppose, but that would really complicate the above diagram i think.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll update in a couple weeks with what I did.

On my list of things to do in the future has arrived. Been dealing with termites. Currently ripping off drywall and studs, in the spot where the underground power cable comes into the house. I currently have just a square D box, nothing fancy like earth fault detection (rccb?). I have single phase 30A meter connection. I would like to change the breakers to rccb type (30ma) a whole house surge protection, ayne 2 transfer switches or one 3 way (one for solar and one for diesel genset andthen the mains) and perhaps a main cutoff switch. Is this overkill? If its not broke leave it alone is on my mind. Is the surge protection worth it? My cheapest route would just be to change the breakers to rccb type and forget the rest. There is so much lighting during the rainy season and I feel like I am way overdue for induction or a powerline strike nearby.

I poked around again today, I guessed maybe there could be induction on the "communication wire". nope. The plan is to try and get a tech guy to come out tomorrow. If not... I guess I will just buy another split if I cant proceed, and make sure to have the new installation guy bring a recovery machine out. I'll just give this unit away or try to sell it to the new install guy. Any advice on something other than Samsung. I heard Daikin is good. I would like to find one that is: --Super easy to clean- I mean being able to pull out the long tubular blower fan in less then 5 minutes, no crazy panel plastic clips that break off either. Able to wipe the drain tray and the area behind the blower fan. --Plastics that do not turn yellow when it sees a bit of sunlight. --KISS - Simple with the same model used for a few years so you know you can find parts in the future. So tired of disposable appliances. --Documented - schematics, part lists - not hidden away behind paywalls or for technicians only, Wire terminals that are clearly marked L | N | G | Sensor | Etc... This AC does not come close to those 4 things. Who here knows of such a split air machine? I did see a solar powered one made in Thailand I believe. Sounds really nice, and I believe its a cassette type. According to the website you can have it only hooked up to 6 or 7 panels (included I think) and the machine will turn off and on when voltage crosses thresholds. Seems nice not having to loose power converting AC to DC. Thoughts? Thanks for all the replies so far.

Ah Sacred secret knowledge of the HVAC guys. Their first reply from a HVAC (not stack exchange) is always 'Aye toni got a license for that?' lol In retrospect your right.

One of my split air conditioners has stopped working. Rather then troubleshooting a bunch I just threw a new mainboard into it. Then I swapped out both indoor and outdoor boards with a identical ac unit in the home. Then I thought maybe its the eeprom unit, so I bought the eeprom chip for 200 baht and put it into the socket so it would upload. The board seems like its only interested in flashing the error led lights. The error code flashing on the outdoor unit translates to OTP Error. From the manual: 1.Checklist : 1) Is there a short around micom? 2) Is there a short around IC502? 3) Did you download or insert EEPROM IC, after changing outdoor PBA? The manual says check for shorts somewhere. I did get a good shock on the ladder doing my usual short cut stuff hot dogging it while handling the main board outside. I don't have the equipment to recapture the gas, I do and can fill refrigerant or if I could get the compressor to turn on I can do a pump down in order to relocate the indoor unit. I'm just saying that incase its some sensor on the compressor. I could not change that. This is a Samsung ASV10PUM model. The boards are good I think since I put working boards from a different ac. The compressor does not turn on and the error flashing on outdoor unit is OTP Error. I have invested about 5-6k baht in my usually guessing. I don't really want to spend 8 more hours with a multimeter on a ladder with more guessing, plus I am finding it difficult to find a AC repair guy to come out to the villages. They seem only interested for new installs. Anyone have any guesses or suggestions? The electrical parts lists IC502 as: SOCKET-IC;8P,SN,2.54mm, i believe that is the empty eeprom socket that I can put a chip in to reupload the instructions. I did try that to recap. Is this a sensor problem? Would a compressor that had a overheated cause this? One thing I do not like about this AC is that the wire terminals for the mains are not clear. There are 3 terminals and the markings are | N(1) | 1 | 2 | That is confusing to me, also the unit is not grounded, that does not surprise me.