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sometimewoodworker

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Posts posted by sometimewoodworker

  1. 1 hour ago, bluejets said:
    On 1/13/2024 at 2:59 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

    Alternatively run an earth cable from a stake in permanently damp ground to the refrigerator.

    Which will do sweet f/a.

    Do please explain exactly how running an earth, as described above, will not provide a functional earth to the refrigerator. NB the word stake is shorthand for earth stake if this is not self evident.

     

    (NOTE we already know that this is not a practical solution for the OP but that is not the point of the question to you as your claim is incredible but probably makes assumptions that are not explained).

  2. 3 hours ago, KannikaP said:

    How many properties in Thailand fit Schuko sockets?

    Mine does!

    3 hours ago, KannikaP said:

    And how many cables have capacitors built in?

    Virtually none, as long as you are not talking about USB when the answer is the opposite, but you are not following the thread as I never suggested that they do.

     

    3 hours ago, KannikaP said:

    Surely short the pins on the cable whilst connected to the appliance.

    That is essentially what I said here is my answer,

    3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

    simple answer, short the unplugged cables.

    I did assume a degree of independent thought. :stoner:
     

  3. 1 minute ago, KannikaP said:

    No the white plug has no fuse, or earth. Sounds like something inside the 'stading garment steamer' has gone amiss. You could try another mains cable.

    Stop wearing stading garments then. 555

    You are correct that the white plug has no fuse, but wrong that it has no earth. It is capable of being used in a Schuko socket where the earth is on the side of the socket recces. It can also take an adapter pin that makes it usable in Thai 3 pin sockets.

     

    The point that is rather less than clear is if the cable has an earth conductor and if so if it is connected 

     

    20 minutes ago, eyeman said:

    Would an hour for any capacitors inside to de-energize be enough?

    That will depend on the circuit design, capacitors can hold charge for weeks or have a discharge resister so only fractions of a second.

     

    simple answer, short the unplugged cables.

  4. On 1/13/2024 at 9:02 PM, OneMoreFarang said:

    depending on your VPN configuration that location might change often to lots of different locations all over the world.

    So if one day the bank (or any other connection) thinks you are in Bangkok and the next day in USA and then in the UK and in Russia then they are "confused".

    That looks as if the VPN service is poor unless you actually want to come from random countries. With my VPN I choose the location I want to use and that is where I come from on each use, FWIW I generally come from London Docklands 

  5. 32 minutes ago, Negita43 said:

    Windows what???? long live CPM

    Only for the business nerds, the free sprites are using still using DRDOS running on a coprocessor (80160) powered by a 6502 main computer, but yes they can also run a piggybacked CPM on the same machine using a Z80 coprocessor

  6. 3 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    I read the article very interesting - so i'm  curious  - drive a piece of rebar through the concrete  and then run ground wire out to it?  Would I need to patch and enclose it with new concrete patch?  thanks        Is this method still employed today  -the rebar up from the slab to connect ground?

    The article is very dated and doesn’t cover current practices in some countries. One of these practices is that in some places you are required to bond your building earth to your building rebar, so yes it is still in current use.

     

    Your suggested method is very unlikely to work. In general there maybe points where the foundation rebar (that likely is connected to all the other reinforcement steel) surfaces, most likely in the roof, but possibly in other places like balcony rails. For this you need to do an electrical test.

     

    4 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    I just spent some time on a US website   1/2 the people say the grounding rod outside violates US code and the other half say how to do it.

    Just because one country code doesn’t permit it doesn’t mean that it is wrong or dangerous.

     

    4 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    Then i watched a This old house episode where he he changed  the outlets  to 3 prong with GFI. His explanation was that the breakers would trip if there was a fault.

    While TOH is an excellent show, it is exactly that, a show! And it glosses over and generalises. 

    Is a supply protected by a RCCB (USA GFI) safer than one without? Absolutely yes.

    Can a supply protected by a RCCB still kill somebody? Absolutely yes, but the chance of it doing that is orders of magnitude smaller and an unprotected one.

    Will an RCCB always trip if there is a fault? Absolutely no, usually they trip but there are faults that will not trip an RCCB 

    • Like 1
  7. 29 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

    Would you touch the refrigerator with a phase error to  chassis, no (bad) ground,  no RCBO, with one hand in your pocket?

    You can choose right or left hand.

    Were I to do anything to a refrigerator, or other appliances, that are single insulated and ungrounded, I would first check with my test equipment. However they are not an absolute guarantee so I would use one hand to work on them if they have to be connected during the work but for preference I would disconnect the item to work on it.

     

    Bur to answer the question of, if shocked and you can choose one hand which hand to choose? My answer to that it makes no difference. This is due point that a hand to hand shock is very much more likely to cause problems than from one hand to another body part.

     

    Of course not getting shocked is the best option.

    35 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

    A good electrician goes by the saying "look before you leap".

    A better one goes by the saying "test before you touch” ;)

  8. @charleskerins you seem to be more concerned with trying to prove that feasible = easy than actually looking at the very real alternative options that don’t involve getting a cable down to the ground. 

    The options given do actually meet you definition of a feasible, if you have the ability to check the building steel, way to add some larger degree of safety to your fridge. 
     

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ufer_ground

     

  9. 10 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    but feasible means easy/convenient .

    Well having taught English professionally, I can say with a reasonable degree of authority, that your definition is wrong. The definition of feasible = is possible and practical, easy and convenient are not part of the definition.

     

    However you have just introduced a point that though totally obvious to you, is vital to anyone trying to assist and can’t be deduced from your questions
     

    10 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    I am not prepared  willing , permitted  to excavate a trench in a rented building through concrete  to bury a ground wire . The ground wire outside would also require  excavation through someone else's concrete.

    An eminently, sensible point of view, neither of these are required.

     

    10 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    I was looking for a safe and convenient method .

    This is where you should actually give full information, with complete information the suggestions under would have been given sooner.


    during the Second World War, it was discovered that reinforced concrete is actually an excellent grounding point, what you need to do is find an exposed piece of metal connected to the building steel, this is usually Rebar, but Rebar is not required, at that point you need to make sure that there is a good connection to ground from the piece of metal, for this you really need somebody who actually knows how to check. It seems that you don’t have the ability to do that kind of checking. 

     

    The kind of places which will have a good connection through the building to the steel to the concrete and into ground are things like railings, possibly window frames, but window frames are less slightly to have a good connection. Likely you have a suspended ceiling and investigating above the suspended ceiling will provide points where an earth can be attached. 


    FWIW one reason why you can be electrocuted in a concrete building is because the building itself is an excellent ground.

  10. 8 hours ago, Danderman123 said:

    Never forget that Thai voltage is 220+, so yeah, even a quick jolt can kill you.

    Never believe that 110+ volts can’t kill you.

     

    5 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

    If resistance is too high, then you will be electrocuted, despite ground.

    That is incorrect, possible but wrong.  The vast majority of times you will receive an electric shock that falls far short of electrocution. The chance of electrocution is vastly reduced if you, like any competent electriction and keep one hand in your pocket. 
    The reason is that the majority of accidental electrocutions require a path through the heart, so from hand to hand. Of course a shock that doesn’t travel hand to hand can electrocute but the risk is vastly lower.

  11. 4 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    Neither of the two top ones are feasible

    They are both feasible. That you don’t want to actually do them is a rather different point.

    4 hours ago, charleskerins said:

    So can you connect the ground cable to the adaptor plug and then the 2 prong?  

    There is no requirement that the earth neutral and line conductors are together. It is convenient and is the way that the vast majority of appliances are connected. The important point is that the potentially live metal case is earthed, how you achieve that is rather less important.

     

    3 hours ago, NoDisplayName said:

    We bought a new Hisense with a 3-prong plug, but only 2-blade outlets available in the kitchen.

     

    We used a 3-prong to 2 blade travel adapter with surge protection.  You can find 'em in DIY or Tesco.  Looks something like this:

    th?id=OIP.0w_x1I-PWY5ty2CBLaYaYwHaHa%26p

    Ran fine for about a year, after which I ran an additional grounded power from the main board.

    A surge protector has nothing to do with safe earthing.

     

    Your appliances that require an earth will virtually always run fine without the earth connection.
    They will be perfectly safe to use, until they are not.

    They will not kill you, until they do

    How long until they decide to kill you? How long before they are not safe?

    if you can answer those questions please tell me the next winning lottery ticket number.

     

    Recently in our village someone who had been using an appliance perfectly safely for years became the featured guest at the local celebration that is usually reserved for those with terminal cases of old age, disease, Drug addiction etc, she hadn’t been due to be the star for 20 or 30 years.

     

    The problem is that it is a low risk case but has the chance of a really really bad outcome, I personally want to delay my introduction to the quite high temperature temple ceremony for as many years as possible.

     

  12. 3 hours ago, MJCM said:

    And that is what the installer / builder forgot to do, but he still charged a ton of money for the Kitchen. :angry:

    The problem is that it costs quite a lot of time to properly add insect protection and once built it is virtually impossible to know if it has been done. The time is a cost and you will only find out years, if you are lucky, later 

     

    I am absolutely sure that the builder of my kitchen base units did protect all the wood used both before cutting and after building, it added over 2 weeks to the time required.

  13. 36 minutes ago, xylophone said:

    He was amazed at this because the house was built on a concrete floor, but the pest controller explained what had happened. There had been a crack in the concrete floor after it was laid and not only that, the foundations (that concrete) had been built on an area that was cleared and which had very large tree roots still embedded in it.

    Just a FWIW you don’t need a visible crack for termites to exploit. Virtually all concrete has cracks, often virtually invisible, and termites will enter through those. This is why we have very few items in our house which are built in and made of wood, but even then they are all treated with Chandrite before installing.

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  14. 4 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

    Don't the tanks just work as an accumulator? 

    It depends on the meaning of accumulator, if you are using it in the way Mitsubishi does (this is rather idiosyncratic) then yes it does, but it can supply water for a longer time than most water pumps pressure vessels without triggering the pump to turn on.

  15. 12 minutes ago, Pib said:

    Thanks...but I see that's an Apple Eco System app....I use Android and Windows.  Plus I was looking for something free that worked on Windows.  And really just for this one TM95 non-fillable form I would rather just fill it out with a pen and then scan it "if" I ever had to upload/email a complete copy.  

     

    I think most LTR visa people are just looking for  fillable version of the TM95 that works on "any" free PDF Reader like free Adobe Reader which resides on most Windows computers.  

     

    Hopefully there is a fillable TM95 out there in internet land somewhere but the TM95 that BOI emailed me is not fillerable with Adobe Reader.  

     

     

    If anyone has the full version of ACROBAT, it is rather expensive, you can try persuading them to create a version for you. However is not the easiest task and it is likely to only work on a subset of systems on a subset of computers. Of course you can install acrobat yourself and do it yourself.

    I know of what I speak as I was condemned to do exactly that kind of work using company computers and software, it isn’t worth it. That’s exactly why I use the better SW and HW now

  16. 4 hours ago, sjk65 said:

    Now I thinking of selling back to PEA, but I have to invest 15-25K to get this done.

    That is rather optimistic and actually managing to get the paperwork done an approved is likely to be rather more and then many PEA offices are likely to say no.

    • Like 1
  17. 19 hours ago, Pib said:

    Is the whatever software you use free to download....what it is it?

    I have several programs that can add text to PDFs, the particular example costs $5.99 today, I have been using it for over 13 years and it is far more than a PDF editor. Since I am familiar with it, it was my go to option.

    https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/goodreader-pdf-editor-viewer/id777310222

    it certainly isn’t the easiest but the software you know how to use is often the best for you. 
     

    I can put any text I like, in any colour I like, in any size I like, in any place I like along with my signature 

    IMG_8129.thumb.jpeg.605941b15fa0c37325943d7bd4725580.jpeg

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