Hog Head

The air cooled flat four is wimpy in stock guise. By the time they are hot rodded, they become short lived, rather expensive, need constant wrenching, and prone to overheating when pushed.

A Subaru water cooled flat four, is both reliable and powerful. The SOHC bolts right in, and the DOHC needs a bit of clearancing but fits. If it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing, so I will use a DOHC turbo model.

Another part of the plan, but I need the IRS donor first. Condition of the donor is not important.

Robert

by my reckoning (having owned a number of '57 to '66 beetles and a '65 bus during 60's and 70's ) Dave's unit is '65 by the look of the body alone (with 1300 CC stock displacement and rigid axel arrangement - no boot on the transaxel attachment). There was a body re-design in 68 with sealed beam headlights and a bigger tail lamp assembly. The '68 also had integral head rests on the front seats.

It was a nice car for folks livin' on the cheap...easy to maintain and etc. But when the japs came in with a lot more fuel efficient water cooled models their days were numbered. The air cooled VW beetle remains an icon...

Dave

Both swing axle and the later "IRS" axles are independent types. Perhaps the confusion is in that the term IRS is used in the USA, and is also known as "double jointed"

Pics will help:

Here is your swing axle type. Imagine a rubber boot over the U-joint at the transaxle end of the driveshaft.

Note the rubber covered CV joint at the wheel end and another boot at the transaxle of the IRS type:

I am not too sure about Mexican or Brazilian bugs, but all German standard Bugs used a torsion beam front axle. Early types used a link pin at the spindle/upright depending on what side of the pond you are from. Later models used ball joints.

One aspect of my next project is an A-arm front end to solve the camber change problem in Standard beetle design, use rack and pinion steering, and improve handling and ride. This subframe replaces the entire beam and steering, and uses the standard spindle and brake. Naturally big brakes would be a plus, however Ghia discs will fit and are about 200 USD complete.

See other pic:

As you say, the Super Beetle (Fat Chick in the Beetle world) used a McPherson strut at the front.

Robert

Dave;

By virtue of their construction and mix and match parts capability, Beetles easily are Frankensteined. I have also noticed that the Thai registration year in the book is not always the year of manufacture.

See my comments on the VIN plate code if it even exists, as several cars I have looked at so far do not even have a VIN plate. I can think of no legal reason to remove the VIN tag, however TIT.

If no plate, there is a number stamped into the chassis under the rear seat.

Numbering code I describe began in 65. Therefore your car should begin with 115. This code began in 65 and the 3rd. digit is the year.

If in fact yours is a 65, you will have a swing axle rear suspension.

I want a post 69, for the better road holding and handling.

If you recall Ralph Nadar in the States he had a hissy fit over swing axles in the Corvair.

Robert

IRS model?

Mines a 1965.

I understand now, mine has all VIN plates in tact and i've also uncovered chassis & engine numbers already, its an original 65.

I'm confused that you mention 1969 as the supension on the 1300/ 1500 beetle are the same, All have swing axels and all have the front torsion beam suspension.

The 1302S and 03's (super beetles) have macpherson strut front suspension.

I might be right in thinking that later models had double-jointed rear axle for improved ride and handling.

I love moving the tubes up 3 inches in the triple trees and fitting clip ons. Apparently the rake, trail, and steering head angles are not important to the goal of improved handling.

What is the similarity between a scooter and a fat girl?

Both fun to ride but don't let your friends catch you on one.

Dave;

By virtue of their construction and mix and match parts capability, Beetles easily are Frankensteined. I have also noticed that the Thai registration year in the book is not always the year of manufacture.

See my comments on the VIN plate code if it even exists, as several cars I have looked at so far do not even have a VIN plate. I can think of no legal reason to remove the VIN tag, however TIT.

If no plate, there is a number stamped into the chassis under the rear seat.

Numbering code I describe began in 65. Therefore your car should begin with 115. This code began in 65 and the 3rd. digit is the year.

If in fact yours is a 65, you will have a swing axle rear suspension.

I want a post 69, for the better road holding and handling.

If you recall Ralph Nadar in the States he had a hissy fit over swing axles in the Corvair.

Robert

IRS model?

Mines a 1965.

Have looked at both these locations and they are pre 69, although registered otherwise.

Thanks and keep them coming

If you drive on the road that connects the moat to Airport Plaza there are a few car tents at the side of the road - onte of them has a few Beatles for sale.

Not a clue on what model they are though.

Ahhh but are they drip free?

But is it for sale and an IRS model?

Here's mine.

Great looking dog.

Do you have a problem keeping the floor tiles clean from drops of oil / grease etc?

Relatively drip free

My little rant:

The Bangkok Post reports June 16/06 that "the government may need to delay the replacement of premium gasoline with gasohol" due to uncertainties in the ethanol supply required to meet the Jan 1/07 deadline. One can only hope that this delay is a face saving measure in light of the decision to withdraw a product that millions of Thai vehicles require. Like so many other government decisions, I trust that this delay becomes permanent and results in a sanity review so that we can continue to operate our vehicles.

June 24/06 the Post reports that the state run oil firm Bangchak Petroleum Plc. is introducing gasohol-91. Is there something more sinister going on and is this the precursor of a hidden agenda to remove petrol from the market altogether?

While I would like to think that the Thai Consumer is educated enough to know the pitfalls of using gasohol, I suspect that price is the deciding factor. Why is the Consumer not being told the entire story so that he can make an informed decision to use gasohol, or given the choice and pay more for petrol.

The government would like us to believe that the logic for E-10 gasohol is that oil imports will be reduced, however this is not the case. Ethanol is an oxygenator, and a substitute for imported MTBE currently used in petrol. Oil imports will not be decreased one iota by switching to gasohol, and it is MTBE imports that will be reduced.

The perception that the Consumer and the Nation will save money by using gasohol is circumspect. Gasohol is less energy efficient than petrol, and depending on the engine, requires up to 5% more gasohol to perform the equivalent work as an equal volume of petrol. Given that gasohol is only marginally cheaper than petrol, one needs to use more gasohol, the current cost of base stock ethanol is 25.30 baht per liter, and ethanol is subsidised at 2.5 B/L where is the savings?

The Research Department of the Petroleum Authority of Thailand did not test gasohol compatibility in all vehicles in use on Thai roads. The truth of the matter is that some new cars, a large number of older cars, and virtually every motorbike cannot safely operate on gasohol.

Are there no Consumer rights in Thailand? Why am I being forced to use a fuel that is both incompatible and unsafe in my vehicle. Surely the oil companies know that gasohol is not compatible and safe for all vehicles? Have they no liability in knowingly filling your tank with an unsafe product, or are they just following orders and the Government is liable?

One can only wonder at the uninformed and flawed logic behind this forced withdrawal of petrol. A more skeptical individual might wonder who owns the ethanol companies, and stands the most to benefit from this government policy?

Ohhhhhhhh that feels better

I am in Chiangmai, but will travel for the right car.

Must be a 69 or later type with IRS rear suspension. Thai cars seem to have little relationship between the year in the reg book and actual model year. The way to tell is that the +69 models have a rubber boot at both the gearbox and axle end. Swing axle pre 69 have the boot only at the gearbox.

Beginning in 65, Beetle VIN numbers all begin with 11 for beetle and the next digit is the year. For example 119 is a 69. Several cars I have loooked at do not have the VIN plate - wonder why???

Condition is not important, and I will consider anything.

robert

Here's mine.

I want a VW Beetle, 69 or newer. Condition not important.

Robert

The engineering inspection and emissions testing procedure I wrote about relates to a "kit" car.

It is possible to circumvent the emissions testing procedure by importing a car directly from the manufacturer that has valid Euro II testing certificates. The disadvantage is the almost 300% duty, taxes and fees on the CIF BKK price.

I for one do not want to give the Thai government 60 - 120K USD in fees.

The other problem is buying insurance. I could not find an insurance company to issue cover, and you just know some cretin without a pot to piss in will hammer into you.

Hence I have given up on the idea to build a bit car.

OTOH if someone has personal experience with getting through emissions testing then I would give it a go.

I have been looking into this for a while, and while it is easy to import either parts or a CKD or SKD kit, registration is the big issue.

The procedure is that one needs a safety test, pass emissions testing, and trot down to the Land Transp Dept with these two documents and all the customs import documents and they will issue you a new book.

Getting a Professional Engineer to certify the construction is not a big deal and can be done easily enough.

One then writes a letter to the Thai Standards Institute, requesting that they test the car. You then wait for an acceptance letter, and are given a date. For my bike this took almost a year. The problem lies in passing Tier II emissions testing done only by the Thai Standards Institute in Bangkok. Fee is 30,000B and test data is not released, just a pass or fail grade.

One could easily build a 7 type, Cobra, or any other kit car using a current Euro II engine, and pass the engineering test. The Engineer tells me that no matter how clean my car is, I will never pass the emissions test and do not even try.

Grey market importers seem to be able to get by the emissions testing, even on vehicles that are not Euro II. Perhaps therein lies the problem?

Anyone got a car through TSI emissions testing?

I understand that someone is knocking off Porsche 356 Speedster bodies in Thailand, and exporting them.

anyone know who?

I have looked into the PVC window suppliers and find the following. Note that quality and price varies widely, sometimes with no relationship between the two. Some supply very similar products demanding different prices.

PVC extrusions seem either to be supplied by Thyssen, USA, Phillipino, Chinese, or Chinese clones of Thyssen.

All will supply double glazing, and low E glass.

Prices vary by up to 50%, and in my case ARC was the most expensive, and Pik Ass the least expensive, using low E double glass, and multi lock catches.

HEVTA Co. Ltd. 02 450 3469

ARC [email protected]

Duro Products as noted above

Windsor here in Chiangmai

Wintek

And my personal favourite with the best name of all Pik Ass International at 01 0229 872

I too am looking for a supplier of quality double glazed, PVC windows.

Any references would be appreciated.

I now have a retirement visa and need to move my household stuff over.

Any special paperwork or regulations I need to know other than the prohibited goods?

Any special wording on the BOL and manifest?

How to declare personal tools and a complete bike in bits?

Thanks

Robert

I just opened a joint account with my Thai GF last week. I came in on a tourist visa and it was a simple, but a bit protracted form filling excercise.

Bangkok Bank, Chiangmai.

Thanks for the visa advise and I will follow up on the OA

Back to the bike. Given that I can only bring in 1 vehicle, and I intend to use this allotment for a car, how to get the bike in?

I hear that others bring them in in parts, but how do I get it registered?

Dr Pong,

I was going to raise about this in another forum, but since you ask:

I am a Canadian and have just retired now at 49. I wish to claim Canadian non-residency for tax reasons, and need to establish a residence outside of Canada.

Got married yesterday, and plan to apply for a married visa in Jan 04 when I reurn to Vancouver for a few weeks. This (and a host of other things) will get me the desired tax status in Canada.

I turn 50 in June 04 and plan to apply for the retirement visa, as I understand that the rules will cange in July 04. Note the married visa will still be good at time of application.

My belongings could come either under the Married or retirement visa. I want to bring in a car, with my house stuff, so the bike must come in bits either as excess baggage, as seperate freight, or in the container.

So:

Bring the bike in under the married visa?

Bring it in under a retirement visa, and if so whih is preferable O or OA?

Thanks for the help.

I am entering on a retirement visa and am told that I can import only 1 vehicle. The problem is that I want to bring my bike as well, and understand one way is to bring it in iparts and assembling it here.

I am concerned about obtaining registration. Is there any way to do this, IE import the frame and engine legally, pay the duty, and then try to register?

The import document could be a bit ambigious - for example Harley Davidson engine SN XXXXX which could be interperited as either just the engine, or the entire bike with that specific engine.

Any bright ideas?