lennya12threh

At the time the LB reply was made it appeared the poster was on a visa entry rather than an extension of stay as that was what he was calling it. If using a visa entry you must present the passport with the visa.

Perfect topic for me...

In my case, i only have a multiple entry marrige O visa that has not been extended and is valid until October. I plan on entering Thailand very shortly, and need a new passport as it expires soon. So if I just bring the new passport, and the old passport with the valid multiple entry visa they will stamp my new passport based on the visa in the old passport? That won't be a problem?

Also, I am not too worried about entering via swanabumi, but when I do the visa run in October to get my last 90 days, I'm worried about the corrupt folks at the Cambodian border will give me a hassle.

Any experience at the more corrupt entrance points to Thailand?

What? I'm married and got the Non Immigrant O visa. It required a minimum of 100,000 baht in my bank account and our marriage documents. It is valid for 1 year and I just have to re-enter Thailand (I do a border run) every 90 days.

Hi. I currently have a Non-O mutiple entry visa (the one that requires border runs every 90 days because I don't have 400,000 baht or a salary of 40,000 baht per month). It was issued on Oct. 4th, 2010, and it says "enter before Oct. 3rd 2011."Does this mean that I can do a border run on Oct. 1 2011 and then get stamped for another 90 days? If this is the case then the Non-O really allows for nearly 15 months in Thailand, before doing another visa, if you time the final border run correctly. Or, if I was to to a border run on Oct. 1st, would I just get stamped for 2 days and need to get a new visa immediately anyways.

Never had any lowering water levels in months, but someone earlier said that it doesn't take much water to get a bit of white residue. The window is full of the dark brown oil, there is just a bit of white rsidue on the surface level that sometimes sticks to the window a bit.

And to vocalniel's question about the 2t pump, I'm not sure what you mean but lining up the lines. I have the pump cover off and can visibly see the pump working when you open the throttle and the cable opens up the pump. I have never noticed any lines or way to line it up, just the screw and lock screw that you can adjust to open up the 2t pump more or close it off. Currently I have the screw (that adjusts how open the pump is and also how much it is opened with the throttle) open almost as much as it can be.

I will be doing a minor investigation of the cooling system and water pump soon.

Do you mean that I should take off the engine head? Do you just mean the "lid" thing on the engine block? Or do you mean take off the entire head (after taking this off you just see the piston sitting there and the rods that the head is lowered onto when re-building)?

I've seen done many times but never done it myself. I know there are two large rubber seals as well as gaskets. Would these need to be replaced if I took off the cylinder head?

I will also a Google search to verify what the head / head gasket is.

I'm just worried about taking things a part that will require new seals or gaskets if re-built because now I don't have any spares.

I will consider a major investigation and re-build parts of this bike, as I have all the tools, but when re-building I would need to be aware of any areas that need special attention, new fittings (seals,etc) or heavier/softer torque application when tightening.

Interesting. It is water cooled and the water pump is located right on the gear box (I think.) I will have to check it out. Also, yes there is that other 2T hose that goes into I don't know where. I'd like to check it out but don't feel comfortable opening this area up. The tubes runs into that stator chamber and then enters in the area below the piston head behind the stator.

Could 2T make it turn white? The only reason I'm connecting the 2t to it is because of the recent incidents where there seemed to be lack of 2T after driving it hard/wot for 30 seconds. This is with the 2t screw is set almost all the way open. So either the pump is faulty or there is 2t leakage. If you warm it and drive it around moderately or even redline a couple times and then stop and rev to 10,000 rpm, the 2t emissions are satisfactory, but if you go wot through all gears and drive it hard for a minute or so, and then stop, rev, and check, then there is no visible 2t at max rpms. I will keep on the look out for rising oil levels a couple days before changing.

Yea, sorry I meant the gearbox oil I guess. It's a 2-stroke so it really has nothing to do with the engine.

That's interesting about the "2t in with the gearbox oil" thing, as in my case after pushing the bike hard, it seemed like (visibly from reving and looking for smoke) the pump stopped the 2t feed, yet it is set almost as open as it can. Then immediately after I noticed the white residue for the first time, and I check the levels everyday.

It must have been 5 months and I haven't changed the gear box oil, but it is still at the same level as it was then. I'll give it a change and observe it as it comes out. As for kms, alot, but I don't know. I also recently replaced the entire rpm,kms,speedo display. So now when I sell it I'll say it has only 3000 kms!

I was looking at the pump yesterday as visibly it looked clean and it opened up with the throttle and all that. I don't understand how it could end up in the gearbox though. It runs from the tank to the pump and then one small tube goes just below the carb and then one more tube goes (I'm not sure of it's pathway) ?

I'm back, and yes the victor has been treating me well and performs very well, and no I haven't wrecked it I don't think.I do like to red line it the odd time in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, but don't drive it that hard because I'm in Burirum and don't want to get attention from the police or the local teenage thugs.

Been using the 2T pump after deciding it wasn't my previous problem, but the bad carboration was and it has been seeming good. The visible 2T does seem a little in-consistent and if you drive slow it seems to clog up with too much 2T but if you let it rip it seems to burn it all off and then hardly smokes at all. But for the most part no problems as I'm not racing it or anything. I also think the main jet is a bit too large and I will try to find a slightly smaller one. (over sized main jet could cause the 2T to mix differently when driving wot too?)

But anyways, today I drove it a bit harder and nearly redlined all gears on the highway, and it's powerful, then when I stopped (engine running still) it was smoking a bit, but didn't act like or smell like 2T. Went in Big C and came back out. Driving home I stopped at a quiet place and tested with reving to look for 2T and there seemed to be plenty but not too much. (noticing that the 2T amounts seem to lower when driven hard) I then redlined 2nd3rdand 4th before getting home and then stopped again and reved it looking for smoke, and there was like none. I went home and noticed some white residue sticking to engine oil window. (I always check it and it has never gone down in months and 1000s of kms) It didn't seem like air bubbles or anything as when I tipped it and shook it stuck and smeared a bit. I then turn it on and tested it again, after driving it for a couple minutes slowly I stopped and revved it and got some good 2T smoke, so I went out and drove it hard threw all gears and stopped and again, like no smoke coming out when hitting high revs. Note my pump is adjusted to be putting almost the max amount of 2T out, as it is the only to way to get what I feel is a normal amount of smoke coming out.

I think I will switch to pre-mixing 30ml to the litre for more consistency and piece of mind. And why might there be white residue/content in the engine oil window. On the generator side there is no engine oil leak coming from the seal, and the oil level has been the same for months and 1000s of kms.

So what will the visa fee be like in KL for the marriage visa.

the speedo only goes up to 120km/h? Aftermarket?

Ok I have one more confirmation. If we have 400,000+ baht in a joint account will it enough for the visa in KL? Someone said earlier that it SHOULD be enough, but I don't want shoulds when I'm flying all the way there. Maybe I should transfer half it to my account in Canada and get a screenshot of my online bank statement printed out and bring both the joint account and mine.

I realize that a joint account isn't suffice for an extension in Thailand, but is it for the original visa in KL? If not, would a printout of a screenshot of my online bank statement be suffice?

And if it is an American lady married to a Thai man does it stay the same?

In this case the Lady does not need any income or savings.

The Thai Husband has to show that he can support her but the money levels are a lot lower.

Wow, so Thailand is sexist and stuck in the 1800s.

And if it is an American lady married to a Thai man does it stay the same?

So they don't allow good working Thai ladies to live and help out with bills with their husbands that aren't wealthy?

What if it was a foreign woman wanting a marriage visa extension to live with their Thai husband?

I hope Thailand isn't sexist.

Well I think we may still plan on going to Canada, where I can make more money than the business here even it got fairly big.

But I will need a years worth of visas while we wait.

Would our joint account with 400,000+ baht in it be enough for KL? If we plan to go to Canada we would sell the business and not buy any vehicles so we would have some cash to show for. We have a buyer right now but still aren't sure if want to stay here, but Canada is the better bet.

So it looks like my only option for now is to chase 90 day visas, whether a marriage or a tourist visa, and pray for 60 days extensions so I don't have to go out of the country to obtain another one as often. So really there is no benefit in getting a marriage visa at KL with 100,000 baht in the bank, as it is the same stay as a normal tourist visa from, say, Laos.. Though I guess with the KL visa then I only have cross the border and come back, and don't require a new visa for a year?

Why do they expect foreigners to be 4x as wealthy as the average Thai just to be in Thailand with the wife.... This is ridiculous.

So the requirement at KL is only 100,000 baht, but at other places it is 400,000? And also something about if I get it at KL I will have to do 90 day border runs, but at other places I won't have to do the border runs?

By KL do you mean in Juala Lumpur, Malaysia? I just found this written on another TV page that was "official" and not a post.

"The Kuala Lumpur Embassy need a lot of paperwork to process a Non-Immigrant Visa. If your paperwork is perfect it should be no problems, but you have to stick with single or double entry - do not expect any Multiple entry visas to be issued here! "

Why does this KL have different requirements for visas?

I have been in Thailand for about 2 years and was a student before and I am still on the student visa but will not be studying anymore and the visa will run out soon. Before I was planning on going with my wife to Canada to continue studying there, but second thoughts have us thinking we should stay in Thailand and give her business a try as it does have potential.

First I thought a marriage visa would do it, but later realized being married isn't enough and they expect all falang to be 4x richer than the average Thai just to live in the country. (something about needing to have a large sum of money or 40,000 baht per month) This is out of the picture because we only have a business worth about 300,000 and another 250,000 in the bank which would go towards the company vehicle if we were expand business. We could be making 60-100k fairly easy in the future (right now it's just enough for us to live comfortably) but then it wouldn't count as my income because I'm not supposed to be working anyways without a work permit....

Secondly I thought of a work permit, but heard stories of it being quite hard for someone who wants to run a small business and isn't getting employed by some recognized company in Thailand (ours is small as of now and doesn't have much on paper, nor is it even formal) I also heard that having a Thai wife/husband can affect this process. Is it possible for my own wife to employ me somehow to get me a work permit?

The only other options for me seem to be the 6 month tourist visas, or getting some phony student visa for some phony program as a "motive on paper" for me to be here.

Any insight?

Ok, so as is it should be ok then. Right now it is tan, and if you call it brown it is very light brown. The picture where you can see my red glove is probably the best lighting and I don't think it is too brown. It does run fairly well, and I don't think it runs hot anymore after adjusting the jet needle though I need to take it on a longer run to clarify.

Also, I assumed that the color would change quickly, because I was told if you keep it at a certain throttle opening for 20 seconds and then immediately stop the engine and check the plug, it should give an indication of how lean/rich the jet responsible for that opening is delivering the mixture.

Maybe this was inaccurate then.

Thanks for the insight guys.

I was told by others that the desired color would be a light coffee brown no?

Hi. Neal.

Well I'll wait a bit and double check the rad fluids (it's still hot now, just got back), but this should be fine because we just put the piston in not long ago and filled it right up again, and it's never had any leaking issues. I don't think we did anything more than just drain and refill though.

I'm not sure you mean as for the relationship between the enlarged ports and the PKW carb. On the side of my carb it says Keihin as the brand/make.

Also, to update, the jet needle was adjustable by a lock piece on the top of it, and when we checked today it was apparently too lean even for stock, so we adjusted it up (richer) a couple notches and when I drove home it seemed a bit better as well.

Thanks.

Whether he used a file or put in new screws or not, I think all the precision was gone when the previous owner had the carb enlarged. By this I mean boring out the carb manually with tools, which can be done well if the guy knows what he's doing, but there is no way to know what new factory jets to put in to accompany the manual carb enlarging. If we used factory jets we would still have to guess by spark plug condition and performance because this carb enlargement wasn't in the books.

Do the spark plug pics look ok? Before I was going to ask how to tell if it's rich, though I can tell if it's lean by the color and another picture given to me. But in my pics does it still look like it's more on the lean side? Because the engine still seems to get hot quickly when raced, and performs similar to how it did before the jets were slightly enlarged, though after enlarging them it did perform a bit better.

One thing I probably need is a slightly larger jet needle, which is not adjustable by filing, so would have to be replaced. It could be worth it just to get a smaller jet needle (allowing more fuel in) to test to see if it gets better as a part of the diagnosis. I think I'll see if it is even possible to order different sized jet needles for this old bike.

The first pictures that were attached were way too big and when you click on them they fill up like 10 screens. I fixed them in this post...

Well I finally went out today and did the throttle / spark plug test on the Victor. (tested at 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% throttle for 20 seconds-ish, stopping the engine, pulling clutch and taking out the plug and looking/taking pictures)

Before the spark plug was much too white and the mechanic said it was because someone had already enlarged the carbo, but didn't change the jets, so he enlarged the pilot jet and the main jet. It seems to be running better ever since, but the only thing is that it seems the pilot jet may have been enlarged a tad too much because it seems to bog down a lot with low throttle when it isn't all warmed up, thought after it's warmed up there isn't much of an issue. Also, it still seems to be lacking a bit, and not smooth enough of a climb into rpms. I also already changed the ignition coil to a genuine one. The one thing the mech didn't change was the jet needle (and the slider valve of course). He only enlarged the pilot and main jets.

Here are some pictures. Note: I also tested 40% throttle, 65%, and 90%, and the plug looked about the same as every other interval, every time. The plug looked about the same throughout the test but here are some pics. It looks ok, but on the side where the tip attaches to the plug main body, it is still white.

The pics marked as "50%" and "100%" are as it says. The one where you can see my red gloves was 75% throttle, and the one that is alone with the patio behind it is 25% throttle.