CM4Me
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Posts posted by CM4Me
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I second the recommendation made by Crossy in post#6. I also have seen these stick on 'frostings', & there are some interesting patterns.
As Crossy said, worth a look.
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About 12 months ago we had a Sala built. The lower 1/3 of the posts were concrete, the top 2/3 were tree trunks, & the roof frame are sawn timber.
Almost immediately after erection the mud trails started. Regularly I would remove them, but they returned overnight, almost.
A couple of months or so ago I was spraying our fruit trees with a non chemical solution called Wood Vinegar. Not sure why, but I decided to spray the bottom of the sala posts with this mixture. Haven't seen a trail since. Coincidence, not sure. Perhaps worth a try.
Wood Vinegar is available at most plant markets, I buy mine from the markets behind Tesco, Superhighway
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Tks to one & all for the replies. I take it 30 days is the norm..... That suits me fine. Again tks
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Specifically in CNX, can anyone advise what is the earliest (in days or weeks) that one can apply for a new retirement visa prior to the expiry of the current one.
Thanks (in anticipation)
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The referred outlet on Suthep Road is on the corner with that road which takes one to Wing 41 / the Airport.
It on the LEFT of Suthep Road as you head west (ie heading towards Doi Suthep). It is slightly after & opposite the intersection with Nimmanhamin Road.
Good luck
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Footy is about to start in Australia, wonderful.
I think there are 2 companies that will install a fixed sat. dish & provide a decoder for a once off cost of about B10K. A movable dish is about double the price.
The companies are PSI & JSat, both have Australian Network TV
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A pharmacy, very popular for expats, at Thapae Gate Chiang Mai sells Melatonin. 60 x 3mg tablets cost about B7-800. Manufactured by Health Connection Lab, USA
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soidog, Tks for your advice, that's exactly what I was seeking.
And track, Tks for the info on hybrids
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My partner arrived home this afternoon with 4 tomatoes, each were bigger than a tennis ball, very red & sweet smelling, about 1.5 - 2 kg. They were bought at a local farmer's market, total cost B10, yes ten.
I would like to grow these from seed, if possible. Not sure what to do. Any advice would be appreciated
Kevin
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trex,
Your interpretations are correct.
I passed by the store today, its Home Mart (& as previously stated they have another Home Mart opposite, on the north or outer road - but they don't have the display)_. Go to the store on the inner or city side.
The display is inside the main building / showroom, & its just after the tiles, which will be on your right as you enter.
Good luck
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T-rex, if you get a chance to come down to Chiang Mai, there is a building supply company (unfortunately the name eludes me for the moment) on the Super Highway, mid-way between Doi Saket Road and Mae Jo Road which has an excellent display of the cool roof system. The company I'm referring to is on the inner or city side of Super Highway. I say this because there is an identical company on the north side of the highway and they don't have such a display.
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Trex, On Longball's link checkout Monier's Cool Roof System - its identical to what you describe (& manufactured in the LOS)
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Macadamia trees are grown commercially here in the LOS, at Doi Tung (I think).
Have seen young plants for sale here in Chiang Mai, at the main plant market (next to Tesco Lotus on the Super Highway)
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As I understand it currently a Living Will is not a valid document here in the LOS.
Fortunately, a new law has been drafted and is currently under consideration by the Government. Hopefully it will become law sometime this year.
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I did all my windows some 5 years ago. Big difference with both heat & glare.
As basjke suggests, I sought out a firm that does cars, they were only too happy to help.
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Several years ago I saw a program on TV (from Aust I think) which showed a system similar to what Jerry describes.
The difference is that they used 4-5 tanks (not ponds) about the size of a normal houshold bath, which were filled with water cleaning plants.
I intend to give this a go, sometime in the future, but don't ask me when
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Am way have a v/good filter system. About 30K. Replace filters & UV Light annually
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Quote I dug a 150mm deep trench in well worked soil, spread a layer of blood and bone fertiliser (Thais call it "reebone") covered the fertiliser with a little soil and dropped the seed spuds in making sure there were 2 shoots per seed. I covered them with soil and then added a layer of well composted horse manure on top. I had 100% success with their growth. I mounded the soil around them as they grew. Unquote
My father was a keen gardener, vegies only. He grew enough to keep the family in vegies for most of the year.
His way of growing potatoes mirrowed that of lamemjay(as quoted), including the use of 'bllod and bone'.
A couple of other points:
* He never grew potatoes in the exact same location for 2 years in a row (otherwords he would rotate his
plantings)
* If he cut his seed potatoes he would immediately dip the cut in (cold) ash from a fire.
* He would only harvest the potatoes once the plant had 'died down'.
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Don,
After digesting your advice for the last 24 hrs or so has made me stop & analyse my own actions / plan.
Silly me, initially I put the husbandry of growing all types of fruit trees into one common basket, the one I know. That being from a temperate climate, with its 4 distinct seasons & growing patterns.
I spent a couple of days further up north for 'count-down', during which time I was able to observe, rather closely, several commercial mango orchards. It was obvious to me that these trees only received light shaping & / or light loping, similar to your advice I believe. As a result this will be my actions from now on. Tks again.
Some info for you (which I've cut & pasted from somewhere before):
Santol กระท้อน (also known as red sentol, sental, & yellow sentol) (Sandoricum koetjape, S. indicum and S. nervosum) is a tropical fruit grown in southeast Asia from sea level to about 3,000 feet above. It grows best in deep organic soil, and with equal distribution of rainfall throughout the year, although, it tolerates long periods of dry, and requires fertilization two times a year. Planting is 7 to 8m apart. Normally, seed trees produce fruit after 5 or 7 years. It is a very productive tree. A mature tree can produce between 18,000 and 24,000 fruits per year. It bears ribbed leaves and pink or yellow-green flowers about 1 cm long.
The ripe fruits are harvested by hand or via a long stick with a forked end.
The pulp is eaten raw or with spices. It is can also be cooked and made into candy or marmalade. Grated pulp can be cooked in coconut milk (and with the addition of bits of pork and chilies).
Chico ละมุด (also know as lamoot) (Manilkara achras) is a long-lived, evergreen tree, growing to 3-4 m tall. From germination, the Chico will usually take anywhere from 5-8 years to bear fruit. The Chicos yield fruit twice a year, though flowering may continue year round.
The ornamental leaves are medium green and glossy. They are alternate, elliptic to ovate, 7-15 cm long. The white flowers are inconspicuous and bell-like, with a six-lobed corolla.
The fruit is a large ellipsoid berry, 4-8 cm in diameter, very much resembling a smooth-skinned potato, and containing 2-5 seeds. Inside, its flesh ranges from a pale yellow to an earthy brown color with a grainy texture akin to that of a well-ripened pear. The seeds are black and resemble beans. The fruit has a high latex content and does not ripen until picked
The flavor is exceptionally sweet and very tasty, with what can be described as a malty flavor. Many believe the flavor bears a striking resemblance to caramel.
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Don,
I was hoping for your advice, you haven't let me down:)
May I add that since joining TV I have come to respect your good advice (& some others) so often freely given. Keep up the good work.
Happy New Year
Kevin
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I have a little more time today to comment on the issue of timing of pruning.
Pruning during the dormant season for deciduous fruit trees is a very common practice; the primary reason, I believe, comes from commercial orchard management, where heavy crown reductions are done each year to stimulate maximum new growth and fruit production, and to keep the tree height contained for easier harvesting operations. Also the pruning is done for practical reasons to precede dormant oil and winter fungicide sprays. If you are a commercial grower then these factors may be worth consideration.
From my experience, I do not believe that dormant season or heavy pruning is so important for a home orchard. Usually, under good cultural conditions (soil fertility, adequate water, etc) most home orchards produce more fruit than the owners can consume and there is no commercial consideration of bumper crop expectations every year.
And as a lover of the natural form and beauty of trees, and as a climber, I would rather climb or use ladders or hook-basket poles for harvesting than to disfigure the trees by heavy heading. And heavy heading creates excessive growth that requires major annual maintenance.
I prune fruit trees the same way that I do ornamental or shade trees, training of young trees to correct structural defects early to promote strong structural framework, then light thinning and shaping as needed. So with this type of pruning, the season is less important. Light pruning (less than 20-25% of the foliage) can be done "when your saw is sharp", when you have time and when you notice the need to make corrections or to thin the canopy for air and light circulation.
I looked at your list of trees and you have a great collection. Most are evergreens that should not be pruned heavily like you've done with your apple orchards, just correct structure and thin lightly, and don't head back the central leaders, unless your heavy manure fertilization is producing rampant growth that needs light heading or weight reduction to reduce risk of breakage . When the trees mature and begin to decline in production, a 25% drop-crotch crown reduction will stimulate enough new growth. Don't ever stub them back to a hat rack like many people do.
Coconut trees of course don't need pruning except to harvest and maybe to remove dead fronds for appearance. Dragon fruit I've never grown but I believe they would only require structural corrections and mechanical support of fruit bearing lateral growth as needed. I don't know what Santol or Chico trees are, so thank you, now I have something to learn.
don
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Hi all,
In Feb 2009 we acquired 4 ¼ Rai, about 30 min NE of CNX Airport Plaza. Great views, but the soil was rather degraded. Spent some considerable time, effort, and money clearing, levelling/terracing and digging of a 2-3m deep dam (of about 1 Rai).
Also had a Macro (excavator) dig 100 plus holes of approx 1 cube metre. Later these were filled with a mixture of Din Dam (topsoil) with about 30% cow poo and 30% rice husks (which were turned/mixed weekly for about 4 weeks prior).
More recently we acquired a further 2 ¼ Rai adjacent, but this time all padi.
Our long-term aim is to be self sufficient with homegrown fruit, vegies, fish, chickens, etc, etc.
The types of fruit trees that we have planted are;
Guava
Avocado
Jackfruit
Rose Apple
Lemon
Pomello
Lime Kaffir
Lime
Yellow Plum
Lychee
Queensland Nut (Macadamia)
Longan (Lamyai)
Santol
Mango
Sweet Tamarind
Mangosteen
Rambutan
Chico
Plus
Banana
Papaya
Coconut
Dragon Fruit
At planting, all the trees were about 1m or less in size.
We regularly feed every tree with more Cow Poo, pelletised Chicken Manure and mulch well with Rice Straw.
Now (some 6 – 7 months later) some of the trees have tripled in height and or spread, and are all shapes. This bothers me somewhat (the height & shape, not the rate of growth).
My question is when should one start to prune / shape young fruit trees (particularly those listed above)????
I believe I am reasonably competent in being able to prune / shape fruit trees as I have performed this task on many an apple tree (when they were all dormant). I believe that most (if not all) of the above trees do not have a dormant period …. so when does one prune?????
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Kevin
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I yearn for corn beef and pickle sandwiches. Is it possible to buy corn beef, cooked or uncooked, in Chiang Mai
Swagman, many moons ago I purchased a frozen piece of corn beef from Rim Ping, branded Coles. After cooking it was the best. Sorry though, haven't seen any for a long time
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Does anyone know where one can purchase, in BKK or Pat, a type of margarine spread containing STEROLS (a plant organic molecule that can lower cholesterol levels naturally) ?
Making A Concrete Slab 8ftx8ftx2in
in DIY Forum
Posted
Making a concrete slab - http://www.source4me.co.uk/calculate_concrete_mix.php - another piece of good advice/link from a Thaivisa member. Tks Crossy.
However a couple of questions that come to mind, specific to the LOS, are
* Sand & aggregate are usually sold in bags or in bulk by the Cube. How much is in a Cube, a tonne?
* It is common practice for concrete to be mixed by hand, on site, often in a large black plastic tub. Usually for this type of mix Thais use a bag of cement with quite a number of 'buckets' of sand & aggregate. Can someone advise what the mix ratio should be for this type of mixing.
Thanks, in advance Kevin