davidgtr

1. AIS works on the river front & "upstream" is better. Hang out on the 3rd floor of the Bor Pen Nyang Pub for happy hour & best Mekong views & AIS reception.

2. Yes you can take your car over, if it belongs to you / is registered in your name, otherwise you need permission from the owner to export. If it is already in your name, then get a ITP - International Transport Permit - from your local vehicle rego office, & it is a piece of cake to get your car in.

3. Pantawee Hotel in Nong Khai will be ok to leave your car.

4. Laos visa get on arrival. US$30 = 2 weeks.

5. Plenty of hotels down town Vte. Also some good guesthouses right on the river front.

6. Thai nationals get 2 nights 3 days on a border pass or 1 mth free visa on arrival with a passport.

well the lady came to tghe police station and told the biggest load of lies I've heard in a long time, she said she didn't pull out, so I asked her how I had accident on a straight quiet road, she then proceeded to make up a story about a delivery truck being parked across the road which I tried to go round but failed...........there was no truck across the road, I then asked her if there was a truck how was she able to drive away....she just said nothing, lucky I have several witnesses that saw everything including the fact that there was no truck.

Before leaving I said to her......you know you have done wrong, why are you lying, why don't you just admit you made a mistake and contact your insurance, do the honourable thing. What a piece shit she is, I guess I didn't expect anything else from a ******, I am taking this to court no matter what, too many people saw this happening, I will have my day.

gharknes

As a fellow motorcyclist I understand how you must feel mate, but dont get totally obsessed with revenge.

The only winner might end up being the lawyer (& police?)

Why waste even more time & money - you dont need a life of agro like that in Thailand.

So stop trying to be a farang in farang country. Fix your bike up, get on with riding & enjoying life...

From my experience riding in Thailand the whole crux of the matter is "who hit who."

That's all the police are interested in. Not who caused the accident. The logic being that you should watch where you are going. If the way ahead is not clear, don't go! Even if someone runs a red light & you hit them, you are in the wrong as you hit them, the way ahead was not clear & so you should not have proceeded at the time. You may not like it , but this is how it works. Welcome to motorcycling in Thailand.

Claim on your 3rd party insurance as it works & they do pay out, although only a limited amount.

Anyone know where you can buy a new dirt bike ? I have never seen any for sale here in Chaing Mai but maybe there is something in Bangkok ? I dont care what brand at this point, as long as its Japanese. Any links would be appreciated.

In Chiang Mai check out the Chiang Mai Moto-X (Naa is the English speaking owner) on the corner of Sriphum & Moon Muang Roads. The guys here are right into competition M-X & Enduro racing. They have hot bikes & hot gear. I'm sure they know where to get dirt bikes for sale if you've got money & are serious. (See http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1170)

If this is not good enough, then don't hesitate to go to Peter at Siam Superbike, numerous Chiang Mai riders have bought their bikes from Siam Superbike without any problems.

I use Fast Corner in Bkk for my helmets.

They deliver & the prices are much cheaper than Oz.

Check out their website

http://www.fastcorner.co.th/

They also have a shop in Chiang Mai at Panthip Plaza, if you are in Cnx.

Thanks for the info. I had a look at the website but the English version isn't working. What's the address of this shop in Bangkok?

Looks like you're right there too - the English page is not yet up.

I'm In Pakxe, S Laos right now so cant help with the address. But if you have buy a Thai bike mag, then look for a Fast Corner advert, as they usually advertize in the good bike mags. Hope this is a help.

Apart from the expat's "favourite" Siam Superbike (& Paddock), another shop I found good for accessory gear was Riders Club, off Silom. Again check out the Thai bike mags & look out for an advert to get the address.

Where is there a good motorbike accessories shop in Bangkok with a good selection of helmets and one that will take an order for a specific helmet? Alternatively what online sites are there that sell helmets that will deliver to Thailand? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I use Fast Corner in Bkk for my helmets.

They deliver & the prices are much cheaper than Oz.

Check out their website

http://www.fastcorner.co.th/

They also have a shop in Chiang Mai at Panthip Plaza, if you are in Cnx.

Re Paddock.

I'd be very wary about buying some of their el cheapo Shoei helmets. Ive checked them out & whilst the shell (& graphics) look like the real thing, I aint so sure about the lining / interior. Just compare an el cheap 8,000 baht special to a "ridgey didge" 20,000 baht plus Shoei in the same shop & it is obvious that something is not quite right. Make your own asessment, but don't get conned into thinking you're getting a full on top of the range Shoei for a mere 8,000 baht.

For me stick to Arai & "you can't go wrong."

Wat Chan – Huay Poo Ling – MHS = 3-4 hrs

Total = approximately 5 hrs if you’re lucky & know what you’re doing.

David, is the Wat Chan to MHS via Huay Poo Ling drivable in a pickup or is it just for bikes? Seen the track on your map of the mhs loop & it looks interesting. Also any chance of getting it as a track plot file to load on my Garmin GPS. Better still, have you ever considered publishing the map in garmin format?

Mobile69

Yeah it's do-able in a 4WD, provided you’re half decent in the steep rough stuff & you've got good ground clearance, or a Hmong cabbage pick-up driver. If you’re not experienced off-road then my advice is to give it a miss or you’ll be asking for trouble.

Sorry no chance of any give away GPS tracks, unless you've got some that I don't have & your tracking nodes are done at 20 metre intervals. “Unfortunately” the same goes for a Garmin / GPS map for everyone to swap share - no chance - as I survive "just" on hard copy maps.

Take a look at The MHS Loop: Checking Dirt Roads & Trails if you want to see some pix of the roads & trails on the MHS Loop.

Thanks for the replies folks. Have to admit I'm surprised no one on this forum appears to have stayed up there. Perhaps after a visit I'll understand why.

Mobile69

I’ve had a night at Doi Ang Khang – a mere 22 years ago.

It December, the popies were out everywhere & it was bloody cold. I slept fully clothed on the floor of some wooden forestry hut, as that’s all there was.

My brother & had hitched a lift there with some Thai friends from Chiang Mai. There were 11 of us "standing up" in the open back of a pick-up. The road R1249 then was all dirt – 100%. We got to Ang Khang about 1.30 pm, all looking like brown dust(snow)men & hardly recognizable. The Thais sat around freezing their <deleted> off, drank a few bottles of Mekong to warm up, when it got dark they decided it was time to drive back to Chiang Mai. I was a bit young & innocent in those days & declined the drive back – no way was I going down R1249 in the dark, standing up in the back of a pick-up, with "drunk" driver on that amazing tight incredibly steep winding road. So that’s how we ended up sleeping on the floor of a wooden forestry hut, with the cold wind gusting through between the timbers & shiver me they did!

I’ve been back to DAK many times since then, it’s one of the best rides / loops you can do in North Thailand, but it’s a bit too quiet for me at night. Fang is the place to go, if that’s what your after.

It's totally amazing that this request has been accepted, & is even being considered.

If I’m right this idea was originally proposed by the MHS Chamber of Commerce early? last year & the absolute fantasy was that it would be a short cut from MHS – Chiang Mai via Wat Chan & Samoeng.

Now it remains to be seen if this is exactly what they are still aiming for, but for me it would be a total waste of money if they thought they would cut the travel time from Cnx – MHS this way. They might cut the distance, but I don’t think there is any way they could cut the travel time, unless they made it all a 4-lane super highway & just think of the expense (& kick backs) involved in that.

Right now

Chiang Mai – Samoeng = 50 minutes

Samoeng – Wat Chan = 1 hr

Wat Chan – Huay Poo Ling – MHS = 3-4 hrs

Total = approximately 5 hrs if you’re lucky & know what you’re doing.

I can already get to MHS in 4 hrs fast non-stop via Pai, & if they just spent a fraction of the tunnel money on R1095 (Mae Malai – Pai – MHS) & turned it into a 4-lane motorway (most of the way) then I’m sure you could get to MHS in 3 hrs, maybe less. The distance is only 240 kms. You would almost never be able to do this going to MHS via Samoeng – Wat Chan – Huay Poo Ling.

So what we have is just another job for the boys, that is feasible but highly expensive, will need constant work & kick backs so ”we” are all making (wasting?) money, constantly. Good for business & some people’s bank accounts, but not good for the environment & or a worthwhile investment.

If you’ve never been on the MHS – Wat Chan track, then it is probably the last “wilderness area in North Thai, with fantastic forest. And I reckon that’s why the need to build a new highway thru there – take out the trees & make money. Someone wants the timber.

I hope I’m barking up the wrong tree, as they would be destroying the very thing that people like most about Mae Hong Son – the forest, natural environment & the road there!

Thanks Sabaijai. Will probably have a look at Ban Luang. If it's not suitable we can always make it a day trip or stop at Malee's at Chiang Dao.

That's a long day trip & will make any time up on Ang Khang very rushed.

if you don't stay in Ang Khang, then spend the night in Fang, or Tha Ton even.

Go up the back way on R1340, hit Doi Ang Khang mid arvo, spend your time there & overnight in Fang / Tha Ton if you don’t like the accommodation in DAK.

Check out this report on the Doi Ang Khang loop.

I'd also like to thank you for the link to the great gt riders site, great stuff and just what I need and a great source of info.

I just wish I had found it sooner though!

I'm still a month away from saddling up on my f650 i just bought but she's sitting in the shed waiting for daddy to return and hope to be able to post some picks of my local trails soon.

Nice bikes and pics btw.

An F650 eh. Nice bike but a bit small for me & touring.

Take a look at the pic below of an F650 loaded up with Beer Lao on the way home from a night in Houei Xai.

Cheers

Thanks for the photo compliments

Hill tribe photos are not that difficult when you've got a nice big bike - the locals always want to come & take a look. I'm lucky as I get to ride around a lot & often go back to the same villages & give photos out.

The locals really appreciate that, as more often than not most people just breeze though, snap away to get what they want & leave. The hill tribes never get anything back. I like to put something back if I can.

Re your blackbird. I’m sure it would be happy on a lot of roads in North Thailand. Lots of roads are perfect for 3rd & 4th gear throttle roll-on & offs.

To enjoy riding, you don’t always have to travel at high speed, & simply keep a steady throttle in 4th or 5th gear.

If you’re a sport bike rider & have not been to Nan then check out R1148 Tha Wang Pha - Chiang Kham

Above: The natives in Nan are friendly & attractive.

Also check out R101 Phrae - Nan, or any of the undulating twisting hilly asphalt roads east of Nan. In the North Nan is top dog for sport riding. Elsewhere Loei province is # 1 nationwide I’d say.

Then once you’ve done these R13 in N Laos is amazing & will both exhilarate & tire you – endless (hours of!) steep & winding twisties!!

Crossing the Mekong with your bike can also be interesting at times.

1) Has anyone been trekking in Laos? Whats it like? Any advice?

2) The riverboats that Travel from Thailand to Luang Prabang up the Mekong river - is there enough water for this now? I have heard that the Mekong gets pretty low these days with China's damming and it being dry and all.

Trekking in North Laos is real good, especially from Luang Namtha or from Vieng Phouka where they have a fabulous Ahkha Trek. Check out Eco-tourism Laos for a run down on what's good in Laos.

Re The Mekong, yeah every year they say the water in the 'Khong is low. And sure it is at times, but right now there's still enough water in the river for navigation from Houei Xai - Luang Prabang. At the height of the dry season it will get tight in places, but that is a month or two away yet. Going downstream on the 'Khong from Houei Xai - Luang Prabang is the way to go.

OK, we've expained to the non beleivers why we ride now tell us your best experience on 2 wheels here in the LOS.

Roads, scenery, pillions, food, beer and mates, give us your best yarn on where and why we like to ride here in the heat.

Back it up with pictures! There must be some good ones out there.

Yep there sure are some good ones out there. North Thai & North Laos really are both motorcycle paradise if you can get out & ride 'em.

I've got hundreds of pix or roads & places in both North Thai & Laos, but cant stick too many up on here.

The Mae Hong Son loop is a bit alright for a 600 kms day ride.

Then Doi Ang Khang roads R1340 & R1249 are “rippers.”

Check out the baby above. The back way around Doi Phahompok on the border. Some guys take their chances & ride across this on smaller bikes.

Also the Doi Mae Salong roads R1234 & R1089

Got more if you want & dont think it will bore you. But need to make a 2nd post. (I had 33 pix of "the best roads" in N Thai & Laos, but reached the limit for a single post. Just ask if you want more. Or go to the G T Rider board for hundreds of photos plus scores of road & trip reports for Thailand / Laos / Cambodia.

Apologies if some of you think this is a bit much. Enjoy the ride.

Any recommendations for where to buy a non-leather motorcycle jacket w/ armor? I'm in Chiang Mai but I'll be in BKK next month so I could look around there too. Or should I just wait until I go back to the states for a visit in April? Thanks.

Samoto

16 Mahidol Road.

Chiang Mai

Tel: 01 8238361.

has some mesh jackets & pants with armour / padding.

Worth checking out before Bkk also.

Check out

http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=633

for some photos of the shop & jackets.

The NFL Superbowl will on at

Jai Yen Cafe

19 Moon Muang Road

(Next to Mad Dog)

low key & a 42 inch Plasma TV

should be alright to watch there.

Breakfast from 8.00 am.

Chiang Rai – Chiang Khong = 120 kms approx

Huay Sai – Luang Nam Tha = 180 kms approx

Luang Nam Tha – Udom Xai = 115 kms approx

Udom Xai – Luang Prabang = 203 kms approx

The road from Huay Sai – Luang Nam Tha is now under re-construction & is a bit of a mess.

Take a look at

http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1097

and

http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1132

if you want to see some photos of the road in December.

Laos visas (2 weeks) cost US$30 at the border.

Crossing the Mekong river with your car requires use of the car ferry (bug) boat.

This does not always go at regular times & if it is not booked by a truck, then you might need to hire the boat yourself & it will cost a few thousand (negotiable) baht one way.

It would take you 1 day to get to Luang Nam Tha & then another day to get to Luang Prabang from Luang Nam Tha.

You’d then need to spend at least 2, if not 3 nights in Luang Prabang, before coming back again the same way.

Luang Prabang is a wonderful city & well worth a few days.

Nothing wrong with either Craig's "The Local" Pub on Moon Muang Soi 9, or Jeff Pike's "Jai Yen" on Moon Muang, (next to the Mad Dog). Both have big screens, with Jai Yen's a 42 inch plasma.

I've been to the one in MHS a few months ago. Very sad. It's really like a circus. If they have lived like a community then I would have enjoyed my visit. The moment we arrived on the long tail they quickly displayed their wares and started weaving. The atmosphere was, at best, stoic.

The ladies all speak good English though.

Kinda sad that they are 'stuck' in Thailand. I hear they are not allowed to leave the village without permission from Thailand.

There should be 3 long neck villages / camps in MHS for tourists to visit.

These are

1. Nai Soi.

2. Huay Sua Tao

3. Nam Phiang Din (Boat trip).

Yeah they are all a bit of a circus, & no doubt the whole situation will prick the conscience of any normal sensitive human being; but if you can speak Thai & communicate with the long necks then my experience has generally been good. They are real people, unfortunately trapped in a bit of a no win situation & are making the best of what they've got - "long necks” if you like. What else could they do with the limited skills they have?

If you can talk them, then what they have going in a safe stable environment in Thailand is probably better than what they had going back home, on the run, in Burma.

Agreed, its an exploitive situation, but I sometimes wonder who’s doing the exploiting - the tour operators, or the long necks dressing up for the tourists & taking their money. Stretch your imagination a bit further even & its almost a bit like being on social security / the dole, sitting around all day smiling, getting your picture taken & picking up a bit of money on the side. It’s boring & more than likely depressing and certainly not my kind of an enjoyable 9-5 job that’s for sure. Life as a refugee / or in a refugee camp sucks!

Anyone in a refugee camp has been / is being exploited. This should bother most people, but what do you reckon are the realistic alternatives for the long necks to make a living hanging out in their refugee camp, waiting to go home (& probably end up doing the same thing under the Burmese military?)

The way it is now, with the skills that they have, it could be considered that they are doing ok. If this is not good enough, then perhaps just send em back to Burma & end of the problem?

Unfortunately, more than likely they’ll always be exploited for their cultural attributes or continue to play pretty long necks to exploit tourists & pick up easy money. Once a long neck always a long neck? Or realistically, at least until they get an education & are qualified for city life & a job in the big smoke. What a terrible thought / life.

This is my bent view of the MHS long neck scene. Now exactly what is going on with the other long neck villages in North Thai I don’t know, but I suspect that it might not be quite as good as the nice MHS scene.

And now, if you cross over into Tachilek (Burma) from Mae Sai, they are offering trips to a long neck village near Tachilek. That’s another no win situation for the long necks I reckon, and it’s another terrible thought - once a long neck always a long neck, you gotta grab those tourist dollars while you can……………let’s be exploited & make easy money.

I made a reply but it got lost in the ozone so here's a summary: It is child abuse and exploitation of women. They don't do it out of a sense of culture...they do it for money. Someone pays them to do it ....they are like circus freaks....it is mutilation and leaves them crippled. I will not go to any village that has them since I don't want to support or look at this mutilation....it is usually child abuse since parents do this to their daughters to support the family.

Chownah

That's a very interesting viewpoint, especially for someone who from what I can gather has never been to a long neck village. So how exactly do they "mutilate," "cripple" and abuse their children.

Have not been to MHS for a couple of weeks, but as far as I know the situation is normal.

The MHS tourism industry if making so much money out of the long necks, that I can't ever see the authorities "letting them go."

But if there aren't any in MHS, dont despair (sad isn't it), but there are long neck "villages" in at least 3 or 4 other places in the North, all "fully imported" (abducted / detained?) from Burma / MHS.

1 south & west of Chiang Dao.

2. roughly east of Mae Chan

3. north of Tha Ton

4. west of Mae Chan (I think)

So there's more than enough to go round & keep the Thai hill tribe tourism industry thriving. Sad isn't it?

Sorry to bore everyone with yet another night safari one, but

http://etna.mcot.net/query.php?nid=5530

New Year countdown at Chiang Mai's Night Safari expected to attract thousands of people

CHIANG MAI, Dec 29 (TNA) - Thousands of people, both Thais and foreign tourists, are expected to join the forthcoming countdown event at Thailand's first night safari--Chiang Mai Night Safari--in the North.

The countdown event would begin from 06:00 p.m. on December 31, local officials told journalists on Wednesday.

Activities in the event include bike and mini marathorn races, as well as animal shows and displays of modern and folk music, according to the officials.

However, there will be no firework displays, as it will disturb and panic animal flocks in the night zoo.

"We expect that at least 5,000 visitors will join the Chiang Mai Night Safari countdown event. If a large number of visitors join the event, we may open the zoo until the dawn of January 1 and invite them to join a merit making ceremony--offering alms to Buddhist monks," said the officials.

The Chiang Mai Night Safari has unofficially opened for the public for over one month, attracting more than 800,000 visitors so far.

The night zoo's official opening was set in early 2006, with the exact date to be later announced to the public, the officials said. (TNA)--E002

<deleted> that sounds real impressive 800,000 visitors in just over a month?

I’m not sure exactly how long the night safari has been open, but even if it is a full 2 months, then I calculate 800,000 visitors to be 13,000 a day. Is that for real or are they telling porky pies?

What do you know about MacDaniel....I'm interested in hearing about this guy.

Not enough, but sufficient to know that he's been totally obsessed with the Akha & saving them. Just check out his Akha Heritage Foundation & “read between the lines.” He’s been deported / kicked out of Thailand, supposedly with death threats & yet is still on a mission, his Akha mission.

Personally he’s someone I prefer to keep a safe distance from & not get involved or too associated with.

As a regular visitor to Vientiane you normally see him most nights in Vte’s most popular bar; and he’s easily identifiable wearing the same old outfit – cowboy hat & associated garb. Hardly keeping a low profile I’d say, but who knows what his current plan of attack might be.

I think a weekend excursion would be a great idea. I have a truck and ladders etc. but am a bit big to climb them

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It would have to be more than a weekend - more like every weekend for 12 mths! Believe me those signs are everywhere in North Thailand. I thought Id been "everywhere" in the North, but almost every time I go down a new trail / road in the mountains I see those bloody signs & know that "they've" been there before me! I’ve always thought that one day I’d see the bastards sticking them up on a tree, but I’ve yet to catch em out.

Naughty Mac Daniel (Akha Heritage Foundation), the supposed sign taker down, is no longer around in North Thailand, but is hanging out doing his “work” in Laos now.

Through someone I contacted I now have a picture of that police man. I will send it to the victim to confirm.  After that.. I don't know.  At the very least we will know if there's a particular (tourist) police officer that we need to watch out for / keep an eye on.

The intimidation wasn't severe enough to warrant pressing for legal action.  It's hardly the first and wont be the last time some police officers have tried to pressure tourists for bogus reasons.

Cheers,

Chanchao

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Chanchao

Good work to get a pix of the "culprit."

But I too still have to wonder if all this is for real.

Questions that spring to mind & still need to be answered

1. What had the victim done "wrong", that enticed a policeman to visit him in hospital & pressure him to obtain …….?

2. The victim imagined he was being intimidated because / for........?

3. Where & with whom was the victim drinking before he got bashed up? Did something happen there that we / the victim don't know about (yet)?

Without clear answers to these it’s all a bit weird & somewhat murky.