2nd Hand Tractors

[hunterdavies]

Hi everyone,

Are there any websites out there that have 2nd hand kubotas or fords for sale? Im looking for something big with up to a twin turbo..found a couple of sites for new ones but no prices.

Thanks for any help that can be given.

[siamfarmer]

I am looking also for a Tractor with about 100 HP

So if anyone know a webpage or has some information would be nice

[soap]

this is a auction site but it might help

www.jssr.co.th

[Maizefarmer]

Why Kubota?

Youre much better off with used Fords

100hp Fords come by the truckload in Thailand - head out of Bkk past the old international airport, as you leave the raised tollway/motorway and drop back down to groundlevel, keep your eyes on the right hand side of the motorway - you will see Ford tractor dealer after dealer - the last one is about 12 k's out of town just before the Carlsberg bottling plant (also on the right hand side of the motorway).

Ford 6610/7610 - turbo'd models - they are rated from around 90hp thru to 110hp (depending on year manufactrued and the block used).

Twin Turbo models ?? - why twin turbo? - compound turbo yes, but that will be a relatively new model and God only knows what it will cost to get in Thailand, and maintain. But turbo has little to do with size of tractor - you can get 50hp tratcors with turbo's and you can get 500hp tractors with turbo's - likewise you can get the same sized tractors without turbo's. As a rule, if its got a turbo, it will have a slightly smaller and faster spinning engine than one rated for the same output without a turbo.

.... and you can add a turbo to just about any tractor (e.g. 6610/7610 both are great for turbo charging up to 160hp plus, with 40% increase in torque - and will keep their reliability if looked after).

Anything larger than a 6XXX, 7XXX or even 8XXX will probably mean having to source tools from overseas (ploughs, discs, planters ect ect .....) ..... they're expensive - if you run typical Thai sized tools off anything larger than 8XXX sized tractors, you'll cry when you get the fuel bill - ask me, I know (New Holland Series 70).

The subject has been discussed in alot of detail in TV Farming in Thailand i.e. the pros/cons of various sized tratcors, where to buy/how to buy/ ect ect ....... strongly suggest previous threads are read.

[soidog2]

Why Kubota?

Youre much better off with used Fords

100hp Fords come by the truckload in Thailand - head out of Bkk past the old international airport, as you leave the raised tollway/motorway and drop back down to groundlevel, keep your eyes on the right hand side of the motorway - you will see Ford tractor dealer after dealer - the last one is about 12 k's out of town just before the Carlsberg bottling plant (also on the right hand side of the motorway).

Ford 6610/7610 - turbo'd models - they are rated from around 90hp thru to 110hp (depending on year manufactrued and the block used).

Twin Turbo models ?? - why twin turbo? - compound turbo yes, but that will be a relatively new model and God only knows what it will cost to get in Thailand, and maintain. But turbo has little to do with size of tractor - you can get 50hp tratcors with turbo's and you can get 500hp tractors with turbo's - likewise you can get the same sized tractors without turbo's. As a rule, if its got a turbo, it will have a slightly smaller and faster spinning engine than one rated for the same output without a turbo.

.... and you can add a turbo to just about any tractor (e.g. 6610/7610 both are great for turbo charging up to 160hp plus, with 40% increase in torque - and will keep their reliability if looked after).

Anything larger than a 6XXX, 7XXX or even 8XXX will probably mean having to source tools from overseas (ploughs, discs, planters ect ect .....) ..... they're expensive - if you run typical Thai sized tools off anything larger than 8XXX sized tractors, you'll cry when you get the fuel bill - ask me, I know (New Holland Series 70).

The subject has been discussed in alot of detail in TV Farming in Thailand i.e. the pros/cons of various sized tratcors, where to buy/how to buy/ ect ect ....... strongly suggest previous threads are read.

This is slightly off topic, and will show my lack of knowledge, but;

If you import a used tractor broken up as spare parts, ( as you recommended in another post ) after reassembly; how do you register it or insure it or sell it for that matter.

Is there a way to get any kind of book for it ?

Thanks !

PS any experience with this firm ?

http://www.beukeveld.nl/

[Maizefarmer]

You don't - i.e. you don't register it - 90% plus of Thai tractors are not registered and do not have number plates, do not have the equivilnat of road worth certificates and do not pay the equivilant of road tax, don't have insurance ..... Owners just don't bother. ... and why? - because most Thai tractor drivers don't have a license!!

That's the reality of tractor ownership and useage in Thailand!

Buekeveld - yes, know them and have purchased from them many times over the years (as have many Thai tractor dealers). They're fine to deal with - no prob's. I fyou do purchase in Europe - don't bring the tractor over "ro-ro" style - it wil cost you around $4k - 6k. Ask the seller to break it down and stick it into a container. Buekeveld will do that for you.

Can you get a tractor fully legitimised (meaning: reg'd in your name, road taxed, licensed, road insurance ect ect........)? Yes - no prob's (and its not expensive), and unlike a car it has nothing to do with importation and having to produce CIF duties paid certificate ect ect .......

The 2 things I would reccomend:

1) get it registered in your name (so you are the legal owner)

2) get insured for use on the road

3) License - optional, up to you - I have, but only because my Series 70 is so large with duals on it (right up against the 3m width limit) and the last thing I want is to have to deal with some local paper using me as an example for how dangerous un-reg'd/unlicensed tractors are when some teenage kid on their own unlicensed moped, clips one of the tyres overtaking and breaks his neck.

It all depends where you are going to use it soidog - if you are out in the sticks and away from built up areas and busy regional roads, you'll have no prob's. I've been stopped by cops less than half a dozen times at most since the 1980's - and that was mostly only since I got the Series 70 and all they wanted to know was, how much power it had, how much fuel it used, how much the tyres costs blah blah, blah blah ....... Generally they couldn't care a shit - the only time you'll ever have a problem (with the cops) is if theres an accident and someone gets hurt - then as a matter of formality it'll be case of how much can be paid discreetly to make the matter go away, or please produce all the relivant paperwork (insurance docs been numero uno).

[hunterdavies]

Thanks maizefarmer and soap for the replys! yeh i think i was being abit over the top there with the twin turbo business..just wanted to say something a bit bigger..anyways will check that website and might drop into tractor district in BKK.

Thanks again.

[hunglikea]

You don't - i.e. you don't register it - 90% plus of Thai tractors are not registered and do not have number plates, do not have the equivilnat of road worth certificates and do not pay the equivilant of road tax, don't have insurance ..... Owners just don't bother. ... and why? - because most Thai tractor drivers don't have a license!!

That's the reality of tractor ownership and useage in Thailand!

Buekeveld - yes, know them and have purchased from them many times over the years (as have many Thai tractor dealers). They're fine to deal with - no prob's. I fyou do purchase in Europe - don't bring the tractor over "ro-ro" style - it wil cost you around $4k - 6k. Ask the seller to break it down and stick it into a container. Buekeveld will do that for you.

Can you get a tractor fully legitimised (meaning: reg'd in your name, road taxed, licensed, road insurance ect ect........)? Yes - no prob's (and its not expensive), and unlike a car it has nothing to do with importation and having to produce CIF duties paid certificate ect ect .......

The 2 things I would reccomend:

1) get it registered in your name (so you are the legal owner)

2) get insured for use on the road

3) License - optional, up to you - I have, but only because my Series 70 is so large with duals on it (right up against the 3m width limit) and the last thing I want is to have to deal with some local paper using me as an example for how dangerous un-reg'd/unlicensed tractors are when some teenage kid on their own unlicensed moped, clips one of the tyres overtaking and breaks his neck.

It all depends where you are going to use it soidog - if you are out in the sticks and away from built up areas and busy regional roads, you'll have no prob's. I've been stopped by cops less than half a dozen times at most since the 1980's - and that was mostly only since I got the Series 70 and all they wanted to know was, how much power it had, how much fuel it used, how much the tyres costs blah blah, blah blah ....... Generally they couldn't care a shit - the only time you'll ever have a problem (with the cops) is if theres an accident and someone gets hurt - then as a matter of formality it'll be case of how much can be paid discreetly to make the matter go away, or please produce all the relivant paperwork (insurance docs been numero uno).

I have been quoted 710,000 for a recon Ford 7810 105 HP in Uthai Thani (locally ish) do you reckon it's worth looking in BKK instead?

[hunglikea]

You don't - i.e. you don't register it - 90% plus of Thai tractors are not registered and do not have number plates, do not have the equivilnat of road worth certificates and do not pay the equivilant of road tax, don't have insurance ..... Owners just don't bother. ... and why? - because most Thai tractor drivers don't have a license!!

That's the reality of tractor ownership and useage in Thailand!

Buekeveld - yes, know them and have purchased from them many times over the years (as have many Thai tractor dealers). They're fine to deal with - no prob's. I fyou do purchase in Europe - don't bring the tractor over "ro-ro" style - it wil cost you around $4k - 6k. Ask the seller to break it down and stick it into a container. Buekeveld will do that for you.

Can you get a tractor fully legitimised (meaning: reg'd in your name, road taxed, licensed, road insurance ect ect........)? Yes - no prob's (and its not expensive), and unlike a car it has nothing to do with importation and having to produce CIF duties paid certificate ect ect .......

The 2 things I would reccomend:

1) get it registered in your name (so you are the legal owner)

2) get insured for use on the road

3) License - optional, up to you - I have, but only because my Series 70 is so large with duals on it (right up against the 3m width limit) and the last thing I want is to have to deal with some local paper using me as an example for how dangerous un-reg'd/unlicensed tractors are when some teenage kid on their own unlicensed moped, clips one of the tyres overtaking and breaks his neck.

It all depends where you are going to use it soidog - if you are out in the sticks and away from built up areas and busy regional roads, you'll have no prob's. I've been stopped by cops less than half a dozen times at most since the 1980's - and that was mostly only since I got the Series 70 and all they wanted to know was, how much power it had, how much fuel it used, how much the tyres costs blah blah, blah blah ....... Generally they couldn't care a shit - the only time you'll ever have a problem (with the cops) is if theres an accident and someone gets hurt - then as a matter of formality it'll be case of how much can be paid discreetly to make the matter go away, or please produce all the relivant paperwork (insurance docs been numero uno).

I'm buying a Ford 7810 6 cyl 105 HP. Any idea on insurance costs and any suggestions of company? Thanks

[Maizefarmer]

7810 for Baht 710K - good deal or not?

Depends on condition - and a 1001 questions - lets start with some of the basics.

Firstly, lets establish beyond doubt that what you are getting is indeed a 105hp block, and not a 90hp block.

Does it have a turbo or not?

Can you find out what year is was manufactured - get the chassis/frame number and the engine number - lets see if they go together, or if the engine has been changed.

Find out from the seller which gearbox it has - there are 2 different types of gearboxes it could have.

While at it, (I presume this is a 4WD?) find out what fuel pump it has on it (meaning the hp pressur injector pump) - the model and/or model type/number wil help (lets see that its the right pump for the engine installed - and from that we can determine what the power options are).

Cab or no cab? - presume no cab.

If 4WD - check front and rear tyres size - so often I see these are wrong, especially if its a rebuilt machine with parts from other tratcors use dto rebuild and overhaul the machine - unless the ratios are correct over time the tranfer box is going to start going @whine whine whine" - and then one day all of a sudden, "Snap". Maxium windup permitted is around 3% I think (could be 5%). Anyway its easy to check - read up on the internet how to do this: its all about making a chalf mark on the front an rear tyre, driving the tratcor over a given distance and then checking how many revolutions each tyre has done for the distance, or doing the test twice: but first time with the 4WD off (i.e do it first in 2WD), then comparing the revolutions/distance of the first test with the seocnd test - see what the differance is (if any). There will be some but there shouldn;t be more than a bout 3% slippage.

When I here 7810 I think "hard work" - thats a nice machine, but been a 6pot, if there is a gremlin hiding in the mechanics somewhere it could cost a lot. If its "genuine" then you'll have a good relaible machine.

How much tread on the tyres - tel them you want new tyres (at that price you should be getting new rubber).

Hydraulics - see if the seller will let you run some of the fluid into a bucket - you want to run it for 15 seconds and then check how much fluid is in the bucket, or measure out 20 litres and see how long that took (this will give some insight into the hydraulic pump condition).

... hel_l there are a load of things that can be done, so much I could run through with you here we'd be at all night - but if you're spending 710K I would expect you to be getting a 7810 in real good conditon with all equipment working properly.

What kind of insurance ar e you wanting - wil it be for road as in what is known as in Full comp or 3rd party, or are you just wanting something like fire and theft, and how many how hours per year do you think its going to be working?

Ask them to throw in a front bracket - the front end is a bit light onthe 7810 and you could do with about 200 - 250kgs of weight on the front. If they won't then get one made up and use it to hold a homemade weight. I cast front end weights out of concreate - make plywood box up to what ever shape you want the wieght to be, bend up some rebar to help strengthen the weight, stick it in mold and cast the concreate - amke a nice strong mix with loads and load of aggregate. As for attaching it to the tractor: all depnds how you have made the bracket - you can make up some large steel u-hooks, or you can weld up a re-bar basket frame - or you can use 2" threaded rebar set in the concreate and then bolt the weight with nuts to the bracket if it has a face plate. I any event you want about 200kg's over the front axle to maximise traction efficiency, especialy in wet condtions.

.. see what I mean - you ask me a simple question about tractors and I go on and on and on....

Hope you find something useful amongst that lot ..... if anything is important about all this lot above its making sure you don't have wrong ratio's on the front/rear 4WD system - that will/could, in due course, cost soooooooo... much money to fix.

'Nuff said

MF

[hunglikea]

7810 for Baht 710K - good deal or not?

Depends on condition - and a 1001 questions - lets start with some of the basics.

Firstly, lets establish beyond doubt that what you are getting is indeed a 105hp block, and not a 90hp block.

Does it have a turbo or not?

Can you find out what year is was manufactured - get the chassis/frame number and the engine number - lets see if they go together, or if the engine has been changed.

Find out from the seller which gearbox it has - there are 2 different types of gearboxes it could have.

While at it, (I presume this is a 4WD?) find out what fuel pump it has on it (meaning the hp pressur injector pump) - the model and/or model type/number wil help (lets see that its the right pump for the engine installed - and from that we can determine what the power options are).

Cab or no cab? - presume no cab.

If 4WD - check front and rear tyres size - so often I see these are wrong, especially if its a rebuilt machine with parts from other tratcors use dto rebuild and overhaul the machine - unless the ratios are correct over time the tranfer box is going to start going @whine whine whine" - and then one day all of a sudden, "Snap". Maxium windup permitted is around 3% I think (could be 5%). Anyway its easy to check - read up on the internet how to do this: its all about making a chalf mark on the front an rear tyre, driving the tratcor over a given distance and then checking how many revolutions each tyre has done for the distance, or doing the test twice: but first time with the 4WD off (i.e do it first in 2WD), then comparing the revolutions/distance of the first test with the seocnd test - see what the differance is (if any). There will be some but there shouldn;t be more than a bout 3% slippage.

When I here 7810 I think "hard work" - thats a nice machine, but been a 6pot, if there is a gremlin hiding in the mechanics somewhere it could cost a lot. If its "genuine" then you'll have a good relaible machine.

How much tread on the tyres - tel them you want new tyres (at that price you should be getting new rubber).

Hydraulics - see if the seller will let you run some of the fluid into a bucket - you want to run it for 15 seconds and then check how much fluid is in the bucket, or measure out 20 litres and see how long that took (this will give some insight into the hydraulic pump condition).

... hel_l there are a load of things that can be done, so much I could run through with you here we'd be at all night - but if you're spending 710K I would expect you to be getting a 7810 in real good conditon with all equipment working properly.

What kind of insurance ar e you wanting - wil it be for road as in what is known as in Full comp or 3rd party, or are you just wanting something like fire and theft, and how many how hours per year do you think its going to be working?

Ask them to throw in a front bracket - the front end is a bit light onthe 7810 and you could do with about 200 - 250kgs of weight on the front. If they won't then get one made up and use it to hold a homemade weight. I cast front end weights out of concreate - make plywood box up to what ever shape you want the wieght to be, bend up some rebar to help strengthen the weight, stick it in mold and cast the concreate - amke a nice strong mix with loads and load of aggregate. As for attaching it to the tractor: all depnds how you have made the bracket - you can make up some large steel u-hooks, or you can weld up a re-bar basket frame - or you can use 2" threaded rebar set in the concreate and then bolt the weight with nuts to the bracket if it has a face plate. I any event you want about 200kg's over the front axle to maximise traction efficiency, especialy in wet condtions.

.. see what I mean - you ask me a simple question about tractors and I go on and on and on....

Hope you find something useful amongst that lot ..... if anything is important about all this lot above its making sure you don't have wrong ratio's on the front/rear 4WD system - that will/could, in due course, cost soooooooo... much money to fix.

'Nuff said

MF

WOW! Thanks MF. It will be fun trying to get my wife to translate and find that lot out from her brothers who'll be driving it.

I will want to register in my name and have it insured 'fully comp'. Can you tell me how to do this and maybe suggest a company?

Also can you drive a tractor on a car license or have to take another one?

Cheers

[haye]

You don't - i.e. you don't register it - 90% plus of Thai tractors are not registered and do not have number plates, do not have the equivilnat of road worth certificates and do not pay the equivilant of road tax, don't have insurance ..... Owners just don't bother. ... and why? - because most Thai tractor drivers don't have a license!!

That's the reality of tractor ownership and useage in Thailand!

Buekeveld - yes, know them and have purchased from them many times over the years (as have many Thai tractor dealers). They're fine to deal with - no prob's. I fyou do purchase in Europe - don't bring the tractor over "ro-ro" style - it wil cost you around $4k - 6k. Ask the seller to break it down and stick it into a container. Buekeveld will do that for you.

Can you get a tractor fully legitimised (meaning: reg'd in your name, road taxed, licensed, road insurance ect ect........)? Yes - no prob's (and its not expensive), and unlike a car it has nothing to do with importation and having to produce CIF duties paid certificate ect ect .......

The 2 things I would reccomend:

1) get it registered in your name (so you are the legal owner)

2) get insured for use on the road

3) License - optional, up to you - I have, but only because my Series 70 is so large with duals on it (right up against the 3m width limit) and the last thing I want is to have to deal with some local paper using me as an example for how dangerous un-reg'd/unlicensed tractors are when some teenage kid on their own unlicensed moped, clips one of the tyres overtaking and breaks his neck.

It all depends where you are going to use it soidog - if you are out in the sticks and away from built up areas and busy regional roads, you'll have no prob's. I've been stopped by cops less than half a dozen times at most since the 1980's - and that was mostly only since I got the Series 70 and all they wanted to know was, how much power it had, how much fuel it used, how much the tyres costs blah blah, blah blah ....... Generally they couldn't care a shit - the only time you'll ever have a problem (with the cops) is if theres an accident and someone gets hurt - then as a matter of formality it'll be case of how much can be paid discreetly to make the matter go away, or please produce all the relivant paperwork (insurance docs been numero uno).

Hello Mais farmer can I have some advice from you on Ford New Holland

Beukeveld has a

NH 7740 SLE 94HP 1996

16X16 electroshift transmission

good and nice unit , 16.9R38 40%

14.9X24 70% , low hours

and a

Ford 8630 1992

132HP ,16X8 Dual power ,7000H

very nice and good tractor ,

new 520/85R38 and 16.9X28 90%

complete with weights , cabin with AC

This is one of the very few built with

the proven manual gearbox.

good tractors? and what is it with this "proven manual gearbox"

and if possible some more info about importing a tractor into Thailand

with regards

Haye

[Maizefarmer]

I’ll deal these 2 machines in 2 separate sets of notes – first the 7740

These are the so-called Series 40 tractors, which followed on from the Series – 10 – the 6610’s, 7610’s ect … of which you see so many in Thailand. Production started in 1991.

Used Series 10 supply is now starting to dry up in Europe, and over the next few years what Series 10 arrive in Thailand, knocked down and stuffed into containers will be the worst of the worst left from the European/UK scrap yards – so now is a good time to be looking towards Series 40 machines – which will start replacing the Series 10.

There are 5 models in this range the 5640, 6640, 7740, 7840, 8240 and 8340. Horse power ranges from around 75 thru to 125. Early versions were known as SL versions, and the later versions were SLE versions. It is important to verify that what you indeed have is a SLE and not an SL. The SL’s had white roofed cabs, but as you are having it sent to Thailand, unless you specifically ask for the cab to be sent, chances are Buekeveld will remove it as they do with all tractors sent out to Asia.

The problem is, some White roofed cabs, have had the roof replaced to disguise that they are not early examples, but I doubt that’s a problem because you have already been told it’s an SLE. Still, you may care to ask for the engine and chassis numbers – then I can double check if it’s an SL or SLE. The SLE’s (the later examples) had blue roofed cabs.

A number of key areas to look out for on these models.

Very early examples were hindered by all sorts of problems with the Dual Power Transmission – don’t worry, the one you are interested in isn’t one of these.

The SLE was not without problems – early SLE examples electronic gearboxes all had some teething problems with “Quadmod” – the mechanical linkages which enabled clutch-less change had to be corrected. So the next question to ask is – does your example have “clutch-less shuttle”, and if so, any problems with the clutch-less gear change?

This is also confirmation of when the tractor was made and if it’s a genuine SLE, versus an SL been presented as an SLE.

Another thing to ask – does your example have EDC – Electronic Draft Control, and is “speed matching” on your example. Not big deals, but nice to have.

All the above changes would have been in place by 1994 – so you are really wanting confirmation that your tractor was produced 1994, or later.

The next thing to ask is – what front axle does the tractor have?

Up to 1995 all Series 40 had Carraro front axles, from then onwards they were fitted with Fiat axles. Nothing wrong with the Fiat axle, but nice to know (lots of spares for Carraro axles in Thailand). Personally I prefer the Carraro.

If it’s an SLE there should be 2 hydraulic steering rams on the front axle – so check if it’s got 2 hydraulic rams, or just one. If there is only one then some questions need to be asked.

Turning angle on these tractors is rather good – its over 50degrees which gives less then 5m radius, but if the previous owner has been turning on the brake (depressing the rear brake pedal to tighten the turning circle), chances are there may be leaks from the front axle 4WD outer hubs. It’s no big deal, nothing to be worried about and easily fixed – but get a couple pictures if you can, n if they are leaking getting some seals sent out with the machine if you buy it.

Late 1995 saw the all cabs been changed from SL to SLE spec’d cabs - blue roof, passenger seat in cab, telescopic mirrors, extra work lights … and other cosmetic bits and pieces.

Also ask about the steering column – as from 1995 all Series 40’s had titling steering columns – so check out if what you are been offered has a tilting or non-titling steering column.

Okay – let’s take a look at the gearbox: Up till 1993 they all had 24 x 24 Dual Power gearboxes – which had mechanical linkage for the clutch-less shuttle gear changes. From late 93 onwards, clutch-less gear change was affected electronically through cables and wires. This electronic clutch-less gear change was originally an add on or mod – not standard, but from early 1994 it became standard on all Series 40 machines.

That’s pretty much all there is to say about the gearbox – it is otherwise a thoroughly reliable unit – close to been bomb proof – so long as you religiously follow the oil change cycles.

Clutch and clutch packs – if they need to be changed, you want that done before you get the machine out to Thailand, or you want the parts sent out with the tractor. It’s easy to check – start the tractor, put your foot on the clutch while in gear and move the shuttle level from forwards to reverse. If the tractor attempts to move it means the clutch pack is worn and will need to be replaced.

If the clutch less shuttle isn’t working, don’t worry – the chances are 99% it will be because the wiring has been damaged so don’t be scared off if that’s the case.

Synchro – if the machine jumps out of gear (especially 5th and 6th) – walk away. Repairing synchro’s on these machines is mighty dear. So get confirmation from the seller that the synchro is fine and that the machine is not jumping out of any gears.

The engine – first time use of the PowerStar engines.

All Series 40’s have Power Star engines – they are long stroke engines with excellent torque characteristics.

One potential problem with them: they are easy to “open” – meaning: getting more power out of them was easily done by anyone with the most basic of diesel skills, and its important to check when you get more machine (if this is what you buy) to see if its been “opened up”, and if it has, to then “close” it. Opening up was nothing more than over fuelling – just fiddling with the high pressure fuel pump – it was that easy to release an extra 10hp – 15hp – but in terms of long term reliability it’s not a good idea. To start with the torque increase was less than use full, and without torque improvements there really isn’t much sense in moving the power band into a higher rpm range – just adds up to more wear on the engine over time.

Its easy to check if your example has been over-fuelled: there will be diesel fuel blow by into the oil, and the plastic cover over the fuel pump will show signs of damage as it has to be moved to cut the wire on the adjusting screw on the fuel pump – so check out the adjusting screw wire (has it been cut?).

When the engine is running there will also be oil drips from the engine breather

Those are classic signs of an engine that’s been opened up for an extra few hp.

Other things to check out:

Sump gasket is prone to leaking, no big deal but while down there also check out to see if there are leaks from the split pin on the bell housing – that’s an indication that the crank seals need replacing which means splitting the tractor in 2 halves (you need to ask Buekeveld for a pic of the bottom of the bell housing where the split pin is).

Also ask for a picture of the front of the bonnet, where the fuel filler cap is: if the tractor is “genuine” you will expect to see wear to the paint around this area – wear from folk standing on the link or tombstone to pour fuel in, and wear from the diesel fuel. That’s fine, you expect to see that. If there is no wear, then you need to be asking why not?

Rear 3 point link.

The hydraulic pump on the Series 40 is a closed-centre loading sensing pump system with a variable displacement pump with around 70 – 75 liters a minute at around 190 PSI – and if it’s an SLE it should have EDC (Electronic Draft Control) as I said at the start. You want confirmation that the EDC is working correctly. Having to strip down and source an EDC problem in Thailand will be both time consuming and potentially expensive.

There should be at least 2 spools on the back (hydraulic valves), and quite possibly more. 4 would be great but not essential. They are double and single acting and each should have its own tap on the valve. It’s a rather nice system.

I can’t remember if it’s a dual or single speed pot (i.e. 540/1000rpm or just 1000rpm) – I’m pretty certain it’s a dual speed pot shaft – check that it is working and that if it’s a dual speed both speeds are working.

Brakes – they are wet plate hydraulic – so very good and not much can go wrong with them. There are 3 or 4 discs each side and they last well, so I wouldn’t expect any problems here – but ask how they are working just to be on the safe side.

Two last things – does your example have fenders over the wheels – Yes/No. Fenders were not standard until around 1995 1996. If yours has no fenders, ask them to throw in a pair from another tractor, even if they are the early steel ones as opposed to the later and better plastic ones – they stop mud been thrown all over the road and pissing the neighbors’ off when driving from field to field.

.. and lastly: if the battery is disconnected from the tractor for any length of time the gearbox electronics will need to be recalibrated. Get Beukeveld to recalibrate before packing the machine into the container, and get them to make sure that the battery is at least connected to the gearbox power supply to ensure that it stays calibrated till it gets out to Thailand.

That’s I think is it – in summary: is it a good machine or not? Yes – they are good solid reliable machines.

I’ll write some notes up on the 8XXX later.

[haye]

I’ll deal these 2 machines in 2 separate sets of notes – first the 7740

These are the so-called Series 40 tractors, which followed on from the Series – 10 – the 6610’s, 7610’s ect … of which you see so many in Thailand. Production started in 1991.

Used Series 10 supply is now starting to dry up in Europe, and over the next few years what Series 10 arrive in Thailand, knocked down and stuffed into containers will be the worst of the worst left from the European/UK scrap yards – so now is a good time to be looking towards Series 40 machines – which will start replacing the Series 10.

There are 5 models in this range the 5640, 6640, 7740, 7840, 8240 and 8340. Horse power ranges from around 75 thru to 125. Early versions were known as SL versions, and the later versions were SLE versions. It is important to verify that what you indeed have is a SLE and not an SL. The SL’s had white roofed cabs, but as you are having it sent to Thailand, unless you specifically ask for the cab to be sent, chances are Buekeveld will remove it as they do with all tractors sent out to Asia.

The problem is, some White roofed cabs, have had the roof replaced to disguise that they are not early examples, but I doubt that’s a problem because you have already been told it’s an SLE. Still, you may care to ask for the engine and chassis numbers – then I can double check if it’s an SL or SLE. The SLE’s (the later examples) had blue roofed cabs.

A number of key areas to look out for on these models.

Very early examples were hindered by all sorts of problems with the Dual Power Transmission – don’t worry, the one you are interested in isn’t one of these.

The SLE was not without problems – early SLE examples electronic gearboxes all had some teething problems with “Quadmod” – the mechanical linkages which enabled clutch-less change had to be corrected. So the next question to ask is – does your example have “clutch-less shuttle”, and if so, any problems with the clutch-less gear change?

This is also confirmation of when the tractor was made and if it’s a genuine SLE, versus an SL been presented as an SLE.

Another thing to ask – does your example have EDC – Electronic Draft Control, and is “speed matching” on your example. Not big deals, but nice to have.

All the above changes would have been in place by 1994 – so you are really wanting confirmation that your tractor was produced 1994, or later.

The next thing to ask is – what front axle does the tractor have?

Up to 1995 all Series 40 had Carraro front axles, from then onwards they were fitted with Fiat axles. Nothing wrong with the Fiat axle, but nice to know (lots of spares for Carraro axles in Thailand). Personally I prefer the Carraro.

If it’s an SLE there should be 2 hydraulic steering rams on the front axle – so check if it’s got 2 hydraulic rams, or just one. If there is only one then some questions need to be asked.

Turning angle on these tractors is rather good – its over 50degrees which gives less then 5m radius, but if the previous owner has been turning on the brake (depressing the rear brake pedal to tighten the turning circle), chances are there may be leaks from the front axle 4WD outer hubs. It’s no big deal, nothing to be worried about and easily fixed – but get a couple pictures if you can, n if they are leaking getting some seals sent out with the machine if you buy it.

Late 1995 saw the all cabs been changed from SL to SLE spec’d cabs - blue roof, passenger seat in cab, telescopic mirrors, extra work lights … and other cosmetic bits and pieces.

Also ask about the steering column – as from 1995 all Series 40’s had titling steering columns – so check out if what you are been offered has a tilting or non-titling steering column.

Okay – let’s take a look at the gearbox: Up till 1993 they all had 24 x 24 Dual Power gearboxes – which had mechanical linkage for the clutch-less shuttle gear changes. From late 93 onwards, clutch-less gear change was affected electronically through cables and wires. This electronic clutch-less gear change was originally an add on or mod – not standard, but from early 1994 it became standard on all Series 40 machines.

That’s pretty much all there is to say about the gearbox – it is otherwise a thoroughly reliable unit – close to been bomb proof – so long as you religiously follow the oil change cycles.

Clutch and clutch packs – if they need to be changed, you want that done before you get the machine out to Thailand, or you want the parts sent out with the tractor. It’s easy to check – start the tractor, put your foot on the clutch while in gear and move the shuttle level from forwards to reverse. If the tractor attempts to move it means the clutch pack is worn and will need to be replaced.

If the clutch less shuttle isn’t working, don’t worry – the chances are 99% it will be because the wiring has been damaged so don’t be scared off if that’s the case.

Synchro – if the machine jumps out of gear (especially 5th and 6th) – walk away. Repairing synchro’s on these machines is mighty dear. So get confirmation from the seller that the synchro is fine and that the machine is not jumping out of any gears.

The engine – first time use of the PowerStar engines.

All Series 40’s have Power Star engines – they are long stroke engines with excellent torque characteristics.

One potential problem with them: they are easy to “open” – meaning: getting more power out of them was easily done by anyone with the most basic of diesel skills, and its important to check when you get more machine (if this is what you buy) to see if its been “opened up”, and if it has, to then “close” it. Opening up was nothing more than over fuelling – just fiddling with the high pressure fuel pump – it was that easy to release an extra 10hp – 15hp – but in terms of long term reliability it’s not a good idea. To start with the torque increase was less than use full, and without torque improvements there really isn’t much sense in moving the power band into a higher rpm range – just adds up to more wear on the engine over time.

Its easy to check if your example has been over-fuelled: there will be diesel fuel blow by into the oil, and the plastic cover over the fuel pump will show signs of damage as it has to be moved to cut the wire on the adjusting screw on the fuel pump – so check out the adjusting screw wire (has it been cut?).

When the engine is running there will also be oil drips from the engine breather

Those are classic signs of an engine that’s been opened up for an extra few hp.

Other things to check out:

Sump gasket is prone to leaking, no big deal but while down there also check out to see if there are leaks from the split pin on the bell housing – that’s an indication that the crank seals need replacing which means splitting the tractor in 2 halves (you need to ask Buekeveld for a pic of the bottom of the bell housing where the split pin is).

Also ask for a picture of the front of the bonnet, where the fuel filler cap is: if the tractor is “genuine” you will expect to see wear to the paint around this area – wear from folk standing on the link or tombstone to pour fuel in, and wear from the diesel fuel. That’s fine, you expect to see that. If there is no wear, then you need to be asking why not?

Rear 3 point link.

The hydraulic pump on the Series 40 is a closed-centre loading sensing pump system with a variable displacement pump with around 70 – 75 liters a minute at around 190 PSI – and if it’s an SLE it should have EDC (Electronic Draft Control) as I said at the start. You want confirmation that the EDC is working correctly. Having to strip down and source an EDC problem in Thailand will be both time consuming and potentially expensive.

There should be at least 2 spools on the back (hydraulic valves), and quite possibly more. 4 would be great but not essential. They are double and single acting and each should have its own tap on the valve. It’s a rather nice system.

I can’t remember if it’s a dual or single speed pot (i.e. 540/1000rpm or just 1000rpm) – I’m pretty certain it’s a dual speed pot shaft – check that it is working and that if it’s a dual speed both speeds are working.

Brakes – they are wet plate hydraulic – so very good and not much can go wrong with them. There are 3 or 4 discs each side and they last well, so I wouldn’t expect any problems here – but ask how they are working just to be on the safe side.

Two last things – does your example have fenders over the wheels – Yes/No. Fenders were not standard until around 1995 1996. If yours has no fenders, ask them to throw in a pair from another tractor, even if they are the early steel ones as opposed to the later and better plastic ones – they stop mud been thrown all over the road and pissing the neighbors’ off when driving from field to field.

.. and lastly: if the battery is disconnected from the tractor for any length of time the gearbox electronics will need to be recalibrated. Get Beukeveld to recalibrate before packing the machine into the container, and get them to make sure that the battery is at least connected to the gearbox power supply to ensure that it stays calibrated till it gets out to Thailand.

That’s I think is it – in summary: is it a good machine or not? Yes – they are good solid reliable machines.

I’ll write some notes up on the 8XXX later.

wow Thanks maizfarmer

Haye

[Maizefarmer]

You came back at last ... I wasn't going to write up the 8XXX notes if you didn't come back - I'll that for you now on Saturday evening - but I'll tell you this in the mean time.

Both have pro's and con's comparitively speaking: if its power you want, and are willing to spend the extra 25% - 35% or so that 8630 sized tools (tools means: ploughs, discs ect ect .....) will cost over & above 6610/7740 sized tools cost in Thailand, then thats what you should go for.

But if you are going to then go out and purchase 6610/7740 sized tools to mount on the back it will be a complete waste with next to no increase in productivity for the added fuel consumption.

Anyway - will now write those comments up and you can then decide.

[haye]

You came back at last ... I wasn't going to write up the 8XXX notes if you didn't come back - I'll that for you now on Saturday evening - but I'll tell you this in the mean time.

Both have pro's and con's comparitively speaking: if its power you want, and are willing to spend the extra 25% - 35% or so that 8630 sized tools (tools means: ploughs, discs ect ect .....) will cost over & above 6610/7740 sized tools cost in Thailand, then thats what you should go for.

But if you are going to then go out and purchase 6610/7740 sized tools to mount on the back it will be a complete waste with next to no increase in productivity for the added fuel consumption.

Anyway - will now write those comments up and you can then decide.

Thanks Maizfarmer

yea, had to go to BKK for a few day's

and was to busy over there

I really appreciate

Hans