Painting Rendered Block Walls

[haveaniceday]

After speaking to 4 painters in the last week, the variations of how they intend to paint the house is, at best, concerning. Gezz so are some of the quotes, Seems the farlang is being taken to 'brown town'

The builder also insist, that non of them would do a neat enough job I would be happy with, and says they will all 100% use paint I am not happy with, all refused to redo quotes with us saying what brand and what painted used, (not that I know that at this stage) but anyway, what about paints that are used here?

It is a single story home, the top of the roof is a bit high for my comfort level, I am thinking about painting it my self, and pay the builder a daily (extra) rate to use some of his staff to do the high stuff and use his scaffolding.

3 of the "quotes" insisted on two coats of color and there is defiantly no need for any primer / sealant. The 4th wanted to seal it with a coat of what was translated as thing white and only do 1 coat of color.

It was all getting to hard, and they haven't even made a mess of it yet !!!!!

I am talking rendered block walls, I thought it would be simple, clearly not.

Any advice on needing to seal them and what is a decent paint to use

?

Render naturally is a rough surface, how many square m to a liter as a rule of thumb? I have been told to double the published amount !!!

[pauljones]

I recommend you purchase the products and keep a very close eye on the workers.

Below are some recommended specs using TOA paint products.

Algae & fungus.

TOA 113 Microkill.

Metal surfaces.

TOA Red Oxide Primer. / 1 coat.

TOA Glipton Enamel. / 2 coats.

Concrete.

TOA Acrylic filler. (large cracks)

TOA Polyurethane sealant.(smaller cracks)

TOA Contact Primer #E-1100. / 1 coat.

TOA Supershield Acrylicsilk-10. / 2 coats.

Wood.

TOA Primer – Laquer sanding sealer. / 1 coat.

TOA Timbershield. / 2 coats.

Surface preparation. Walls.

Clean entire surface with clean water by using high pressure. ( 200-250 bars) or hard brush(not metal). If inconvenient to spray, use of a damp cloth is allowed.

Use specified agent for fungus and moss stains according to directions of manufacturer. Let dry.

Scrape loose paint/material with iron trowel.

Hairline crack (less than 3mm.) filled with specified acrylic filler.

Cracks larger than 3mm. scraped into V shape, cleaned and painted with contact primer.

Later filled with specified polyurethane sealant then sanded.

Painting walls.

1. Prime the old plaster with specified primer. (let dry 4 hours)

2. Repaint with 2 coats of specified paint. (let dry 4 hours)

Inspection and quality control of product.

1. Painting materials will be supplied by the employer and passed to the contractor

each time before using.

2. Employer may inspect the products at any time.

Workers must follow regulations of employer listen to recommendations regarding the above.

[jonnyscot]

Hi haveaniceday, I'll be checking your replies with interest as the builder has just yesterday finished the outside rendering of a small 4 mtr x 9 mtr building we're putting up on the site to get water / electrics access to site before the house build starts, I've planned to do the painting job myself, the builder has told me to wait at least 5 to 6 days for the wall to dry completely before painting otherwise we will have future problems with "black spot" he called it

[ozsamurai]

Sealing coat X1 color X 2, choose the paint yourself, if you have no expertise, go to a Homepro et al and bash their ears, don't just buy whatever they are pushing that month, know what you want, fade UV protection, washable, water based etc... then pay labour only, 3 coats. supervise this with a cold beer.

Oz

[bankruatsteve]

I agree pauljones advice esp. the surface prep. Most brands sell crap along with their premium product (eg: TOA). Don't buy the crap to save money. I used the TOA (I think it's called) Super Shield. I diluted the primer 10% but went full strength with 2 coats of the color. Depending on time of year and humidity, it might take more than 4 hours to dry though. And, DIY - anybody can paint. I taught the gf and she's now an expert.

[wpcoe]

Just curious: why did you dilute the primer?

[bankruatsteve]

I diluted b/c it made it easier to apply to the render. Once the primer on, that problem solved so I go full strength with the color.

[wpcoe]

Okay, that makes sense. I know that Thai painters typically dilute ALL paints, but couldn't figure out why you would dilute only the primer.