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Klx 250 Mods


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Hi,

If you was to add a new can and remove the snorkel would you also then have to add a power commander or juice box? How about just adding a can and leaving the air box un-molested?

I know if you made these mods to a carbed bike you would have to change the jet sizes... I'm not too familiar with efi bikes.

Also any recommendation for new bars without having to replace the cables?

Thanks

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I stuck a Home racing end can on mine and it runs fine with no efi or juice box. I doubt the power has improved but the exhaust sounds better and is a fair bit lighter.

I have these bars fitted

http://www.sixsixone.com/Catalog_TagMetals.aspx?id=e109296f-f544-4395-ac61-06c6691e0a90&product=16644ae5-7348-4418-aabe-709a4780352a

with these risers

http://www.flyracing.com/category/moto/hard-parts/bar-mount-kits

and have kept the original cables.

A Kawasaki boss 175 snorkel will fit the klx, so far I have not touched my air box. The only other mod I did was disconnect the loom at the clutch lever as per this

http://www.svendura.de/tuning.html

Its in German but has good easy to understand photos and does allow the engine to rev more freely and higher up the rev range.

The bars and risers I brought from Bike Lane in Pattaya, I think it took Khun Ley 2 -3 days to get them in for me, a friend of mine has pro taper bars on his bikes and again has not needed to change any cables.

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Soon2bexpat,

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply.

Bars look great and good to know no cable change is needed.

Do you find with the new end can any 'popping' from the exhaust on deceleration or on gear changes?

When its cold (well as cold as it gets here) it pops on rapid declaration but once warmed up there is no noticeable popping or back firing and not on gear changes either. My guess is due to the sensor still fitted just fwd of the can the EFI is still receiving its information and compensates for the change in end can. Home Racing is based in Mae Rim just up from Chiang Mai and he does make full systems including a power or mega bomb. The only reason I kept the original header pipe was due to no heat guard available on the Home Racing header pipes. I ride mostly standing up and my right leg does touch the header occasionally.

There is some info on a few other bike forums, ride asia and gt riders regarding mods to the KLX.

I think when I change my rear tyre I'll go up a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket for better low down power, top speed isn't an issue for me.

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Soon2bexpat,

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply.

Bars look great and good to know no cable change is needed.

Do you find with the new end can any 'popping' from the exhaust on deceleration or on gear changes?

When its cold (well as cold as it gets here) it pops on rapid declaration but once warmed up there is no noticeable popping or back firing and not on gear changes either. My guess is due to the sensor still fitted just fwd of the can the EFI is still receiving its information and compensates for the change in end can. Home Racing is based in Mae Rim just up from Chiang Mai and he does make full systems including a power or mega bomb. The only reason I kept the original header pipe was due to no heat guard available on the Home Racing header pipes. I ride mostly standing up and my right leg does touch the header occasionally.

There is some info on a few other bike forums, ride asia and gt riders regarding mods to the KLX.

I think when I change my rear tyre I'll go up a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket for better low down power, top speed isn't an issue for me.

Thanks,

Yes what you describe is exactly what I am looking for an answer to. When the bike is first started, for about 1 or 2 mins it pops, as soon as the engine is warm it stops. Its the same with the snorkel in or out. So this is nothing to worry about?

A 13t front sprocket is what I'm think rather than going up on the rear.

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Soon2bexpat,

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply.

Bars look great and good to know no cable change is needed.

Do you find with the new end can any 'popping' from the exhaust on deceleration or on gear changes?

When its cold (well as cold as it gets here) it pops on rapid declaration but once warmed up there is no noticeable popping or back firing and not on gear changes either. My guess is due to the sensor still fitted just fwd of the can the EFI is still receiving its information and compensates for the change in end can. Home Racing is based in Mae Rim just up from Chiang Mai and he does make full systems including a power or mega bomb. The only reason I kept the original header pipe was due to no heat guard available on the Home Racing header pipes. I ride mostly standing up and my right leg does touch the header occasionally.

There is some info on a few other bike forums, ride asia and gt riders regarding mods to the KLX.

I think when I change my rear tyre I'll go up a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket for better low down power, top speed isn't an issue for me.

Thanks,

Yes what you describe is exactly what I am looking for an answer to. When the bike is first started, for about 1 or 2 mins it pops, as soon as the engine is warm it stops. Its the same with the snorkel in or out. So this is nothing to worry about?

A 13t front sprocket is what I'm think rather than going up on the rear.

As it only lasts a couple of minutes I'd say no nothing to worry about, I am pretty sure its ok. Yes I thought about 13t at the front but seem pretty scarce, a larger rear is easier to get hold of here.

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I fitted a Leo Vince enduro slip on type:3545 ( which a friend took for me from Holland) on my 2011 KLX

I didn't change anything ( airbox /EFI) and the bikes runs well with it. according to LV there should be a slight improvement on power and torque, but the soundtrack is sooooo much nicer then the stock exhaust. (the main reason i've changed the slicencer)

That "popping" with a cold engine sounds familiar ( i even had it with the stock exhaust) .

Other mods i've made are: Zeta carbon frame protectors, acerbis handguards, and a custom made rack.

post-143096-0-26920200-1343183328_thumb.

post-143096-0-46225800-1343183454_thumb.Leovince Dyno klx 250.pdf

post-143096-0-47710300-1343183624_thumb.

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As it only lasts a couple of minutes I'd say no nothing to worry about, I am pretty sure its ok. Yes I thought about 13t at the front but seem pretty scarce, a larger rear is easier to get hold of here.

PM sent

I fitted a Leo Vince enduro slip on type:3545 ( which a friend took for me from Holland) on my 2011 KLX

I didn't change anything ( airbox /EFI) and the bikes runs well with it. according to LV there should be a slight improvement on power and torque, but the soundtrack is sooooo much nicer then the stock exhaust. (the main reason i've changed the slicencer)

That "popping" with a cold engine sounds familiar ( i even had it with the stock exhaust) .

Other mods i've made are: Zeta carbon frame protectors, acerbis handguards, and a custom made rack.

The Leo Vince looks very nice!

I also like your rear rack, looks to be extremely well made. Was this a one of or are they for sale? I would be interested.

Thanks

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Gents.

I came across this topic and thought some of you may be interested in the mods I've made to my 2011 KLX 250.

Changes include:

Renthal bars (clutch cable replaced and brake hose extended due to extra bar width)

Zeta hand guards

Zeta oil cover

Zeta starter cover

Zeta frame guards

Zeta engine guard

Zeta fuel cap

ECU changed

Twin flow air filter

Twin Bros Exhaust

Zeta exhaust manifold cover

D tracker mirrors

Touratech top box

Touratech GPS mount

Garmin Zumo GPS

Kawasaki rack (comes with smaller tool bag which is filled with foam for the good lady when riding pillion)

Suga driving lights

All plastics changed by special order from Kawasaki to black (just not keen on green).

I also use a Alpine Stars tankbag for touring. Bike has Edum stenciled in Thai (ugly black thing) which causes amusement at filling stations, nickname given to my 'kik' as the good lady calls it. Recently bought a Fly Racing helmet with 16 vents to keep me cooler, worked well and I always use a Fox airframe and elbow guards as minimum protection, as does the good lady. It's taken a year to get all the bits and pieces together, which has been part of the fun.

I've just come back from a little tour of 10 days starting off in Jomtiem (good lady trucked the bike there to meet me as I flew into BKK) and went through Bangkok, down to just south of Hua Hin, back up to Ayuthaya, across to Korat, up to Khon Kaen, Udon Thani and finally home to Namsom. Did a little short of 3000km in total with the excursions we undertook on the way. Bike was great, a little overloaded by the good lady (I'll pack next time). I only get 130km before the fuel indicator comes on, I carry half a liter on the bike as an emergency but usually find somewhere to fill up and stretch my legs, coffee and cigarette.

Next tour will be along the Mekhong through Nong Khai and all the way down to Udon Ratchachima, will take it leisurely and get there in 3 days.

The bike is the most suitable for my needs, living in north Isaan with bad roads, plenty of off roading and the odd bit of touring thrown in. Speed of 130kmh is plenty for the conditions of roads, traffic and the unforeseen of course.

Enjoy your biking and if ever up in Udon way, I may see you there.

post-122477-0-09847800-1345820928_thumb.

Edited by WindyGale
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I stuck a Home racing end can on mine and it runs fine with no efi or juice box. I doubt the power has improved but the exhaust sounds better and is a fair bit lighter.

I have these bars fitted

http://www.sixsixone.com/Catalog_TagMetals.aspx?id=e109296f-f544-4395-ac61-06c6691e0a90&product=16644ae5-7348-4418-aabe-709a4780352a

with these risers

http://www.flyracing.com/category/moto/hard-parts/bar-mount-kits

and have kept the original cables.

A Kawasaki boss 175 snorkel will fit the klx, so far I have not touched my air box. The only other mod I did was disconnect the loom at the clutch lever as per this

http://www.svendura.de/tuning.html

Its in German but has good easy to understand photos and does allow the engine to rev more freely and higher up the rev range.

The bars and risers I brought from Bike Lane in Pattaya, I think it took Khun Ley 2 -3 days to get them in for me, a friend of mine has pro taper bars on his bikes and again has not needed to change any cables.

where did you get your boss 175 snorkel? thanks

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Hi Martin.

I'm getting the good lady to check with Kawasaki Big Bike shop in Udon Thani, where I bought the bike for the ECU details. They are a good shop and pay attention to detail and are diligent and knowledgeable.

ECU was changed after the 1000km run in period, so a full analysis of the difference, I can’t give. I did notice however that I have power throughout the rev range, which was all lower down prior to the change, very little above 7,500rpm, enhancing overall performance and flexibility tremendously. According to figures I’ve seen from others, my indicated (GPS shows lower) top speed is a little over 130kmh, so no gains there.

With the exhaust, I had to put the power tip back in after 2 weeks as it sounded fantastic but was far too noisy and drove me mad. I have a nice exhaust note and with the twin flow air filter the system can breathe fine, with tolerable (and Police friendly)decibel levels now. I’ve not removed the snorkel as I collect enough dust as it is in the filter. I do ride the bike hard, I don’t much care for economic riding, but with 130 km range, the power is up on standard and running richer possibly, but by how much I’ll never know. Starting hot or cold takes a few turns and I also get the exhaust pop on deceleration, part of the bikes charm!

I’ll keep looking at this forum as am always looking for improvements, but I won’t be boring out pistons to 350cc or such modifications.

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I think that it might be the API ECU that kawa sell, about 8000 baht if I remember correctly. It seems as if the ECU has de-restricted the bike so it can rev out in all gears now. Sounds a lot like the wire cut or clutch mod. I'm trying to see if its worth spending the 8000 for the ECU as well as the free de-restriction. Had you de-restricted prior to the ECU?

I'm looking to big bore, but to a 300 as I can use genuine kawa parts from the old klx 300. If I do this I will post details here. If I go ahead with that I will also be adding a Juicebox or power commander to modify the fuel map.

Cheers

Hi Martin.

I'm getting the good lady to check with Kawasaki Big Bike shop in Udon Thani, where I bought the bike for the ECU details. They are a good shop and pay attention to detail and are diligent and knowledgeable.

ECU was changed after the 1000km run in period, so a full analysis of the difference, I can’t give. I did notice however that I have power throughout the rev range, which was all lower down prior to the change, very little above 7,500rpm, enhancing overall performance and flexibility tremendously. According to figures I’ve seen from others, my indicated (GPS shows lower) top speed is a little over 130kmh, so no gains there.

With the exhaust, I had to put the power tip back in after 2 weeks as it sounded fantastic but was far too noisy and drove me mad. I have a nice exhaust note and with the twin flow air filter the system can breathe fine, with tolerable (and Police friendly)decibel levels now. I’ve not removed the snorkel as I collect enough dust as it is in the filter. I do ride the bike hard, I don’t much care for economic riding, but with 130 km range, the power is up on standard and running richer possibly, but by how much I’ll never know. Starting hot or cold takes a few turns and I also get the exhaust pop on deceleration, part of the bikes charm!

I’ll keep looking at this forum as am always looking for improvements, but I won’t be boring out pistons to 350cc or such modifications.

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Greetings KLX Folks,

Just sold my V & H modified HD XR1200 (~ 100hp at the crank) and bought a new D-TrackerX here in Pattaya last week. Great bike but took some getting used to after the XR. Now planning to get an API "new" adjustable ECU unit & R9 SS Carbon exhaust. Has anyone s**t-canned the air box assembly on the D-TrackerX & replaced it with a simple K&N clamp-on type racing air filter?

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Hi Martin.

Yes it was the API fixed unit fitted. No de-restriction prior to this, just the run in period on the original ECU. I don’t know how much I paid for this as this was part of the mods I required and negotiated prior to purchase.

The only other mod I’m looking into is for the rear fender. I need to keep the spray off on long runs with the good lady, but want to improve the look, cutting it away isn’t a practical option in this case, any suggestions anyone?

The best mod on the bike however is the good lady riding pillion, one of a kind, custom built and top of the range. Made in Thailand of course!

Good luck with your displacement increase, I hope this brings effective results, let us all know.

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I swapped the ecu out to APITECH ecu-5000 baht

- Changed the cans to Tsukugi racing cans-3800 baht

-Changed the Air Filter to K&N filter

The bike runs great, has more torque and goes to a higher rpm range in all gears. The top speed is also higher(around 130-140). The only hassle are, a borderline acceptibility of decibel level, popping sound sometimes on deceleration.

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