Where to Retire in Chiang Mai?

[RedQualia]

It sounds very much as if you know exactly what you're looking for. The area around Nimmanhaemin should be a good place to start. There are also some serviced apartments near Kad Suan Gaew that may be worth considering. Both would represent something of a reasonable balance between Thai and foreign folks. Tha Phae Gate has a certain amount of charm, but that's mostly for tourists, I'd think. I would tire of staying near there fairly quickly, mostly because of all the tourists. Lots of condos everywhere, with many near Central Airport Plaza. I wouldn't consider that a particularly great area for you, unless you're planning on being a mall rat fairly regularly.

Chiang Mai city isn't really all that big, and you can get most anywhere from anywhere fairly quickly and easily. You could easily get by without a vehicle, I'm sure, owing to tuk-tuks, or the less expensive sorng teaws (15 Baht for a sorng teaw will take you from Central Airport Plaza to "downtown" Hang Dong, for example).

Otherwise, mixed thoughts on whether you need a vehicle. I live outside Chiang Mai, not inside, and "have things I need to do." I have a nice, "good sized" pickup truck as a result, and also a motorcycle (not a motorbike). Anytime I have to "go to town," my preference is for the motorcycle, hands down and regardless of weather. I have a passionate dislike for trying to drive the truck around the moat, up and down the sois, etc. None of that was really built for cars and trucks, etc. Still, sometimes that's what's needed.

A motorcycle could be handy, and especially if you've had experience with them in the past. Not that you'd need to use it often, of course, but if you had a 150 or so, you could easily travel about if you wanted, possibly heading to Chiang Rai, and etc. A second hand CBR250 can be had for 80-90K or so, and would be big enough to "somewhat comfortably" go anywhere in Thailand (the bigger the bike, the more comfortable). I wouldn't want to ride a 115cc motorbike from Chiang Mai to Phitsanulok, but people have and people do, so... Someone suggested Yamaha or Suzuki for a motorbike. Well and good, I guess, but note that historically, Suzuki has had marginal presence in Thailand. Yamaha would be a better bet, of those two. And try not to get an "automatic." The kind you shift get much better mileage.

Again, I live outside Chiang Mai. I have a quiet life, and that's just fine by me. And I can go weeks without seeing a foreign face. That too, is just fine by me. I do like going to Muang Chiang Mai, when I go. Except that every time I do so, I abhor what traffic has become the past few years. The last time I had a motorcycle accident was in 1990 or so. The last time I had any kind of accident was on the airport highway in Chiang Mai, trying to go east from Central Airport Plaza. Nothing major. It was mostly like a parking lot at the time, and so a Thai woman decided the three lane highway could accommodate a seventh lane, instead of the usual six. I was stopped in one of the middle lanes and couldn't move. She ended up repainting the side of my truck, and bought me a new mirror.

Different folks are different. If you like city, that's fine. Same for economy bar girls, for that matter. To each their own. I'm the kind who starts to go crazy after 2-3 days in Bangkok, and have to leave that place. I like quiet. I like country. And Chiang Mai seems to be getting awfully crowded. Had I to do it over again, I would consider Udon Thani. Nice, reasonably sized town with sane traffic most of the time. More than several foreigners there, but they hardly overrun the place. I think that I would personally consider Roi Et, as well. Very nice, very small city with very modest farang presence. Many foreigners like Khon Kaen and Ubon Ratchathani, though me -- not so much. Again, different folks are different.

All of which is to reinforce the idea of others, that maybe you shouldn't get too attached to Chiang Mai right away. Leave the door open, and go explore other places. Decide where you most want to be in a year or two. Maybe that will be Chiang Mai, or maybe not. Wait and see.

[ChrisKC]

There are several areas in Chiang Mai that are very suitable for your requirements. My suggestion is that you come and see for yourself. You can't make an informed decision from afar. There are few "high rise" in Chiang Mai, certainly there are no skyscrapers as in Bangkok.

From an accommodation point of view, you can stay in a nice hotel, many of which offer a fantastic monthly rate over the normal daily rate.

Befriend a local Thai person (when you get here) who knows the Chiang Mai "ropes".

The advice about not going through an Agent is excellent - don't do it. it's not specially because there are scams but you WILL be taken advantage of re rent and long tenancy agreement.

In my opinion with 11 years of living in Thailand, 8 of them in Chiang Mai, some houses are cheaper than condos to rent. You have to look around but you can find something modest but with a garden and a few rooms that makes the whole living a more attractive proposition. Up to you of course.

A few of the replies here have very good content - re-read them.

I now live in Isaan where you can find a house in the countryside with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, sitting room, kitchen large garden and furnished B2500 a month.

20 miles outside Chiang Mai with regular transport B20 into Chiang Mai you can easily find a large house for B4000 a month. Whatever you want now or reflected in a change of mind later, Thailand has a lot to offer.

It's not WHAT you know but WHO you know in Thailand!

[RedQualia]

A couple of other thoughts for neighborhoods to consider.

Nong Hoi is sort of a crowded and busy, predominantly Thai neighborhood going south on Chiang Mai-Lamphun Road. I've never lived there, but looks like it could be fun, at least for a while. The area I'm thinking of is south of Rajavej Hospital. There's a "Holiday Inn" near there as well. And north of the Airport Highway (Mahidol Rd).

If you continue south on Chiang Mai-Lamphun Road, past the Airport Highway, there's a 3-12 KM stretch called Saraphi. Different parts of that road are nicer or not, depending on area. The area just south of the Airport Highway might be of interest to you, but is again, predominantly Thai.

Finally, some interesting things to consider going north on the first road on the east side of the Ping River. Can't recall the name of the road. Google maps doesn't want to tell me the name either, but you'll see it if you look there. Search for "The Granary Resort," for example (not that I'm recommending that establishment -- only the road that it's on). Lots of nice, interesting shops along that road, and not very crowded, really. Just another place for your consideration.

Not many movie theaters or farang supermarkets in these areas. But they're not that difficult to get to.

Cheers.

Edited December 25, 2013 by RedQualia

[personchester]

Rick ... The outlined details in your message depend entirely on your personal preference and not on general preference, look yourself in order to find the appropriate details regarding your life style.

To achieve this, rent a room on monthly basis (2 or 3 Months) and during this time look around several areas until you find what you want accommodation-wise, and surrounding-wise, then carry on with the purchase procedure.

[nomad127]

You would want to be on or as near to Nimmanhaemin Road as possible. Quite a few condos in this area, lots of good bars, clubs, restaurants, shopping (new mall being built) and a Powerhouse Gym is tucked away on a Soi there. The gym issue is the toughest part to help you with as decent ones in CM are far and few between. Other than Nimman, there is a really nice gym over by the football stadium, but I have no idea about condos or nightlife in that area.

Edited December 25, 2013 by nomad127

[jackr]

Chiang Mai offer "different locations for different intentions"....

1) If you like to be around foreign tourist, bars with girls, and night life, around the Tha Pae Gate may be perfect. Busy night street Sunday market.

2) If you like to be around more permanent foreign residents, teacher and students, away from tourist areas ...but close to everything, look for Neeman and Chiang Rai University areas. Close to the Airport Central Plaza Mall is also a good area, close to everything. Do not rent a car or motorbike, NEVER, get accounted with a tuk tuk driver and call it when you need it. Mine was Lung Nuat when I was living in Chiang Mai..nice guy..088-4086797. He will pick up you at the airport and take you to your hotel or everywhere close for about $2.50...(80THB) up to 3 people.

3) If you do not know anybody in Chiang Mai and want to meet Thai people that can help you with your choices and good advise, call for reservation and airport pick up to the SKHouse1, Muan Luang and Soi 9, blocks from the Tha Pae Gate and talk with a lady travel agent working there, or the lady working in the travel agency and Internet store around the block., or look for Thai Smile Travel Agency, another helpful and honest lady in the area. All them speak good English. Around the Miami Hotel cross street, by the temple, is a small place renting good rooms by a month, now probably about $200/month. In Neeman and University areas you may found studio apartments in called service Apartments building for about $250/300 month.

Do not look for housing using a real estate office...take your time. Real estate offices will ask for double of the normal rental price of any property, and will ask for long term contract. Look for a month to month rental or very short term contract, and for a furnished places with AC.

After April rentals are easier to find and in a better price.

I hope you will find this useful for you. Be safe and sober all the time and enjoy the smiles!

Please tell me where there is a high-rise condo around Thapae Gate?

I would avoid tuk-tuks as much as possible, lest one who is possibly not very worldly be 'taken for a ride', and go with renting a car or bike to really see the place. It's not Bangkok and there are many major, legitimate rental firms here with fully comp' insurance.

Keep a close eye on the sois of Moon Muang (Soi 9 in particular), noted bag-snatching area by dodgy 'ladies' on bikes.

Agreed on estate agents. Best to spend time here and look for yourself.

[jimth123]

I'm currently living in Hua Hin but plan to visit Chiang Mai for about 3 weeks. Since Chiang Mai is much cooler at night than Hua Hin, do the hotels, apartments and guest houses all have heaters?

Jim

[jimth123]

Do all the hotels and guest houses in Chiang Mai have heaters?

Jim

[BenCM]

Do all the hotels and guest houses in Chiang Mai have heaters?

Jim

I don't think anyone can answer that question, only say what ones they have stayed in and whether there was a heater there or not.

In Chiang Mai city centre, I have never felt the need for a heater, only a thicker duvet, but out in the provinces it is a different story.

Up in the mountains last week it was very cold and I was shivering in bed. The bungalow we were renting had no heating and no thick bedding, so I would definitely recommend a sleeping bag at this time of year.

[donniereadit]

Do all the hotels and guest houses in Chiang Mai have heaters?

Jim

None of them have heaters!

[Thighlander]

near a main road is very important.

yes the traffic noise from the main roads is wonderful, motorcycles winding up and 10 wheel trucks lugging along 24/7

I will clarify. A really good in city location and a nice place could easily be expensive for a retiree, the hustle bustle can get a little old, too. So a lot of people get a place in an obscure moo baan and get a car. That ends up being a lot costlier than the in city option. So as a middle of the road choice, get a place outside of town, but on or near a main road and take advantage of a good songtaew line, the buses, and an occasional tuk-tuk or taxicab (that will be able to find you). So you get lower rent, and can enjoy being carless, and motorbike less, and you will be a lot less likely to die in a crash. The IRS in America allows you to deduct 55 cents per mile (if you itemize) for business expenses. They don't set that number because they want you to pay less taxes; it's because that is a good estimate of operating an auto, and while repairs are cheaper in Thailand, you will need more of them because the roads are atrocious and don't forget gas prices are higher.

[Dante99]

near a main road is very important.

yes the traffic noise from the main roads is wonderful, motorcycles winding up and 10 wheel trucks lugging along 24/7

I will clarify. A really good in city location and a nice place could easily be expensive for a retiree, the hustle bustle can get a little old, too. So a lot of people get a place in an obscure moo baan and get a car. That ends up being a lot costlier than the in city option. So as a middle of the road choice, get a place outside of town, but on or near a main road and take advantage of a good songtaew line, the buses, and an occasional tuk-tuk or taxicab (that will be able to find you). So you get lower rent, and can enjoy being carless, and motorbike less, and you will be a lot less likely to die in a crash. The IRS in America allows you to deduct 55 cents per mile (if you itemize) for business expenses. They don't set that number because they want you to pay less taxes; it's because that is a good estimate of operating an auto, and while repairs are cheaper in Thailand, you will need more of them because the roads are atrocious and don't forget gas prices are higher.

Please post your statistics showing that riding in a taxi, songtaew or tuk-tuk results in "a lot" less likely to die in a crash" compared to riding in a private car. Or are you trying to turn your opinion into fact?

[Thighlander]

I've been coming to LOS for eight years and successfully bought and sold a house in Hang Dong. I was giving some general advice to someone asking for it, without giving a specific budget. And what do I get in return? Another TV legal hairsplitter, who can only raise objections; not offer alternatives. show me one case of a taxi passenger dying in a crash. For those who live outside of town and go in a couple of times per week; how many are drinkers? In fact, quite a few would be drunk on their way TO the bar...at that point you are safer in a tuktuk, and a few of them are safe. Often times, people think the remote locations/moo baans are the way to go, only to deal with bad dog problems/soi dog problems/dog owner problems and a pain in the ass to get to town for a night on the piss.

[Resi]

Please can some tell also, where you should not to go !

[northernjohn]

If I were in your shoes I would spend a month (or three) living around the Tha Pae area, and then move to the Nimmanhaemin area for a month (or three) and see what you like best. Agreed that you do not need to involve an agent. Just walk around town, talk to people, look for "condo for rent" signs, etc.

Really great advice. There will be no problem finding places close to what you want . So just grab one and get around that area for a while. Then try another area. We can recommend places adnauseum but they are the ones we like or prefer. You might find some thing wrong with it that we enjoy. Your wants can be met in many different areas. So give them all a decent test until you find the one that you really like.

A couple of things to consider is how much noise there is and are you willing to boil in the afternoon in a western facing room.

Yes there will be an air con if they don't bother you and they will definatly run your electric bill up. some places charge 8 baht a unit not sure what they use for a measurement. I pay 6 and I have heard of as high as 10. Some places you can get the electricity charged to you from the company that price is a little under 4 baht a unit.

Come and give yourself a chance to find your own little garden of Eden. Also we have an international airport if you are into traveling around Asia a bit.

[northernjohn]

I've been coming to LOS for eight years and successfully bought and sold a house in Hang Dong. I was giving some general advice to someone asking for it, without giving a specific budget. And what do I get in return? Another TV legal hairsplitter, who can only raise objections; not offer alternatives. show me one case of a taxi passenger dying in a crash. For those who live outside of town and go in a couple of times per week; how many are drinkers? In fact, quite a few would be drunk on their way TO the bar...at that point you are safer in a tuktuk, and a few of them are safe. Often times, people think the remote locations/moo baans are the way to go, only to deal with bad dog problems/soi dog problems/dog owner problems and a pain in the ass to get to town for a night on the piss.

I was looking at what the OP was looking for and I don't think any of what you mention will apply to them.

I myself live in the city. I have no vehicle as I can walk to many of the things I want to go to.

Transportation by tuck tuck or songthaew are cheap. Some will claim they are all rip off artists but using them all the time I know that to be false. Yes there are some just walk away there will be another one along in a minute.

[harada]

Do all the hotels and guest houses in Chiang Mai have heaters?

Jim

Theres a large selection of heater available on a nightly basis, prices vary.

[mikey88]

Everybody's differnt and likes different things....so it's very hard to say....and therein lies the problem..

I read a lot of the replies and....for me....disagree with many of them. So go figure...

I do rent a car and I wouldn't be without it.

I do walk a lot too because the car is useless for some trips...streets are too small.

It's invaluable though for getting out.

I wouldn't stay near Thae Phae in a fit unless you like being surrounded by tourists.

Niemenheimmen for me is too trendy and not what I came here for...

My perceptions changed so much every month I stayed that I'm glad I didn't make a commitment early on...

High rise is just like home....for me that is...and I wouldn't have a bar of it...

OM

[haybilly]

Chiang Mai offer "different locations for different intentions"....

1) If you like to be around foreign tourist, bars with girls, and night life, around the Tha Pae Gate may be perfect. Busy night street Sunday market.

2) If you like to be around more permanent foreign residents, teacher and students, away from tourist areas ...but close to everything, look for Neeman and Chiang Rai University areas. Close to the Airport Central Plaza Mall is also a good area, close to everything. Do not rent a car or motorbike, NEVER, get accounted with a tuk tuk driver and call it when you need it. Mine was Lung Nuat when I was living in Chiang Mai..nice guy..088-4086797. He will pick up you at the airport and take you to your hotel or everywhere close for about $2.50...(80THB) up to 3 people.

3) If you do not know anybody in Chiang Mai and want to meet Thai people that can help you with your choices and good advise, call for reservation and airport pick up to the SKHouse1, Muan Luang and Soi 9, blocks from the Tha Pae Gate and talk with a lady travel agent working there, or the lady working in the travel agency and Internet store around the block., or look for Thai Smile Travel Agency, another helpful and honest lady in the area. All them speak good English. Around the Miami Hotel cross street, by the temple, is a small place renting good rooms by a month, now probably about $200/month. In Neeman and University areas you may found studio apartments in called service Apartments building for about $250/300 month.

Do not look for housing using a real estate office...take your time. Real estate offices will ask for double of the normal rental price of any property, and will ask for long term contract. Look for a month to month rental or very short term contract, and for a furnished places with AC.

After April rentals are easier to find and in a better price.

I hope you will find this useful for you. Be safe and sober all the time and enjoy the smiles!

Hi Umbanda, I find your post informative, however, I have a question regarding this part: " Do not rent a car or motorbike, NEVER" . Why is this? Do the owners of the vehicles do the same scams as what happens in Phuket, finding bogus damage and demanding exorbitant sums of money? Thanks.

Exactly....but not only because that. Started with buying a second hand lemon. Later.... I had an accident with my motorbike, not my fault, but was a nightmare to deal with all people involved, the insurance, the police, etc, etc...and really didn't make sense for the cost in gasoline and the stress of riding in mad traffic. I am from America, left driving, very orderly traffic, etc...A recipe for accidents, and to get kill or kill somebody.

For the money I wasted in 6 months...I used a tuk tuk service for 2 years....and having fun. Now my Thai wife drive our car. She is very good driver, but in Thai style. I am only a lousy copilot...just telling her...Slow down...slow down...and closing my eyes sometimes.

Secondhand bikes are easy to have checked or easy to check out by oneself, not much can go wrong on a 110 or 125 and as for tuk-tuks the drivers are mostly bloody lunatics, avoid.

Only thing that can go wrong is that you can get killed- like several of my friends on motorbikes. I avoid them these days- even as a pillion passenger.

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