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waldwolf
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Posts posted by waldwolf
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aaaaaa - Your problem could be early "spinal stenosis" or simply inflammation from poor posture (sitting at computer for hours). The pillow between the legs giving relief definately points to some type of spinal problem, hopefully minor.
Try an over-the-counter NSAID's like Aspirin, Ibuprofen, or Naproxin for 4-5 days. (Stay away from any COX-2 inhibitors such as Celebrix, due possible serious side effects.) If soreness remains, you'll need professional help. An MRI/CAT scan may be needed.
In the meantime, DON'T LIFT ANYTHING HEAVIER THAN YOUR DINNER PLATE and don't sit at the desk for long periods. Get up and walk around for a few minutes every hour or so.
good luck
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spacebass - I'm assuming the dll's cpuinf32.dll and/or mplapx.dll are the xxxxxx dll's your referring to, and the dll's Media Player can't find. (They were originally developed by Intel video codecs but now handled by Ligos. Also be aware there are apparently several versions which incorporate spyware.) If the dll names indicated above are what you saw, a couple of things you might try are:
1. Have your recently installed or uninstalled any Ulead brand software? (Ulead utilizes these ddl's, but sometimes leave them behind, damaged, when a program is uninstalled.) If above was the case, run regedit, look for any "Ligos" entries and delete them and reinstall Windows Media Player. (If your not comfortable with editing the registry, skip this step and try step 2. or find a friend who is knowledgeable about registry editing.)
2. If above doesn't apply/work, try the following:
a.) Click START > RUN and enter in window: "C:\Program Files\Windows Media Player\setup_wm.exe" (without quotes)
b.) Click OK
c.) Reinstall Windows Media Player
d.) Reboot computer
Check if it will now play your videos.
If you still have problems, try this:
a.) Place your Windows XP CD in the CD/DVD ROM drive
b.) Click START > RUN and type in window: "SFC /SCANNOW" (without quotes)
c.) Click OK
If neither of above works, hopefully another member has some ideas.
cheers
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With all the advanced technology we have, why can't TVs have an automatic gain adjustment on volume so you do not have to raise or lower the volume every time you change the channel ??......
They do. As you correctly noted, its called AGC (Automatic Gain Control), circuitry, but it is designed to compensate for broadcast signal strength reception variation, not the receivers amplifier volume output.
Some TV's have additional circuitry (eg: Phillips "AutoSound") which basically hold the volume level to what you preset, when actual broadcast levels vary, such as when the broadcasters increase sound volume on commercials.
Sorry, but don't know of an "add-on" which would solve your current problem.
cheers
[PS - You may also have noted a similar problem in commercial DVD's. Low sound level to start, volume slowly increasing as play progresses.
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Don't you agree?
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hardy1943 - According to HP specifications, the model 1051L is a desktop tower, sold only in Thailand and has the following factory specifications:
. P4(515) 2.93GHs Processor (533 FSB)
. 256MB RAM
. Motherboard: Asus PTGD1-LA
. HDD: 80GB, 7200rpm, SATA
. 16x DVD(+/-)R/RW Dual Layer drive
. Operating System: FreeDOS
Were you aware the 1051L comes with FreeDOS as the factory installed operating system? (More info here HP 1051L and FreeDOS)
Was the Windows XP Pro installed the only OS or was the system set up as a "dual-boot" (XP and FreeDOS)?
When you say it won't "download anything", could you expand on that a little. For example:
1. Was the version of Windows XP Pro installed, SP1 or SP2?
2. What additional software did that computer have installed? (Antivirus? Anti-Spyware? Firewall? etc.)
3. Were you able to read, install programs using the computers CD or DVD-ROM drive?
4. Is your internet connection dialup or broadband?
5. Is your internet connection wired or wireless?
6. Using that computer, were you able to connect to the internet and surf?
cheers
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For info:
If your running a wireless network in your home or office, you may be interested in this companies LucidLink FREE 3-User program which reportedly offers both ease of installation and rock solid secutity.
To obtain download information and free license key, you will need a valid email address.
Details here
More product info here
More Tech info here
(Disclamer: I do not personally use this software, nor am I associated with the company in any way.)
cheers
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aaaaaa - From your post, the only thing anyone knows about you is that your married and have back pain.
Are you 18 or 81? Are you an Olympic athlete or wheelchair bound? Do you work or are your retired? If you work, do you do heavy manual labor or work at a desk all day? Do you take any medications? Do you drink alcohol? Do you use drugs? Have you ever injured your back? Ever been in an automobile accident? (and on...and on....and on...)
The only person who can properly diagnois your problem, is a medical professional.
good luck
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A month ago I paid Lime Wire 56$ in membership fees but have been unable to install their product and so far they have not responded to my emails, I now looking at my membership confirmation email see that this came from a company called [email protected], am I the victim of a scam?
I paid the money into Lime Wire at there web page. any info on this appreciated
Did you pay by credit card?
If so, contact your card issuer (Visa, Mastercard, etc.) and dispute the charge. Explain situation. Card issurer should re-credit your account, after investigation. Don't delay, as normally your allowed to dispute a charge up to 60 days from date charge was made.
cheers
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Wow! Thanks, some great posts there. I had no idea flash memory sticks had reached 8 Gig.
I am still confused though why 256 RAM is sold today, that is over two years after I bought my PC.
I understand that clock speed is stuck at 3.00-4.00 but apart from heat why...and why heat?
Also.....if I doubled my RAM would I notice....and if I did notice....how?
syd - 128 and 256MB RAM sticks are still sold, so people can upgrade their systems for (hopefully) better performance. As memory costs money, original equipment manufacturers (OEM's) use less memory to be more price competative. Same with the size of hard drives and computer monitors, or in the case of laptops, screen size & types.
Electricity (electrons) flowing through a conductor (ie: wire) are slowed due to impurities in the conductor. This is call resistance. When resistance occurs, heat is generated. The more electrons you force through a given conductor, the more heat you generate. Picture yourself pushing a wheelbarrel around the yard. The more dirt you put in the wheelbarrel, the harder it is to push, and the more heat your body generates. You begin to perspire. That perspiration evaporates and in so doing, cools your body. The heatsink and fan in your computer act in a similar mannor, by circulating cooler air over the CPU and other internal parts, reducing overall temperature. (Sorry, a short-bad explanation for a very complicated subject.)
In general, the least expensive way to improve performance in your computer is to increase RAM. In your particular case, an increase from 256 to 512mb, should increase performance quite noticeably. In many cases programs will run faster as it will not be necessary for your OS to use the hard drive as a "virtual memory device", which it does as available RAM memory becomes less and less. Remember RAM is much faster than writing/reading-to/from a hard drive. Another hardware performance improvement to consider might be a new hard drive, running at 7200rpm, with an 8mb buffer. They are relatively inexpensive today. (I would guess your 2+ year old hard drive is probably a 4200rpm of about 20-40gb.)
cheers
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My first personal computer was a Z80 running at approx 2MHz with 8k ram, before operating system (DOS) was loaded. Storage was a standard 30 minute cassette tape recorder. Cost about $2,000 (US). First modem had a lightening speed of 300 baud and dialup connections were yet to be invented. Paid over $100 (US) to upgrade ram to 16k. Ah yes.......the good old days.When I got my first PC it was 300 MHz and 28 RAM and I connected to the internet on a 56K dial up.....
Basically nothing has gone wrong. If you have a lot of cash, you can buy a personal computer with a 5GHz (overclocked) processor, but the problem is HEAT. Processor manufacturers are banging their heads against the brick wall of speed vs. heat vs. power consumption. The future appears not to be speed of the processor, but the ultimate end product of "through-put". How much data can be pocessed within any given period of time. The future will, at least for now, be new "dual-core" and "cell" 64 bit processors, containing multi-internal processors, like Intel's new Pentium D, AMD's Opteron and the IBM/Sony/Toshiba's "Cell" with its 6-16 processors.In the last two years, I have seen a big slow down on computer speed, for example people are still buying 2.4 and 2.8 MHz P.C.'s I should have thought that 4.0MHz would be the norm by now....what's gone wrong?
With fiber optics, the visable light theoretical maximum data rate is 5120 Tbps (5,120,000,000 Mbps), however using infrared or ultra violet light that rises to 160,000 Tbps (160,000,000,000 Mbps). Just keep in mind this is all theory. Practical speed is another story...how fast can internet go?..
Recently heard Samsung (worlds largest memory manufacturer) will have a 100 gig "hard-drive type" flash drive on the market in about 1 year. Price????? How big can they go?...................(as big as your pocketbook can afford).Finally memory sticks (flash memory) they are great, so useful, probably the best thing i bought recently is a 512 stick. Worth its weight in gold...I have seen a 1 Gig stick....but again...how big can they go....eventually?cheers
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John - When you tried to add RAR as a new extension, what message did you get (if any)?
If RAR was already "associated", you should have received a message (warning) that it was already assigned. If it is not assigned, then you should be able to enter it as a NEW association.
Suggest you uninstall WinRAR, reboot, then reinstall it again, then check the File Types list again for an RAR name.
Post back findings.
cheers
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...She wanted to know if I would get fat and not be interested in sex anymore. ....
Chris - Your friends wife may be correct. You are now officially (at least for all intent and purposes) a Eunuch.
cheers
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John - OK, lets try the following:
Figure 1
Figure 2
1. Click on My Computer. When it launches, click the Tools button and select Folder Options. (You should see a window similar to Fig.1)
2. Inside Folder Options, click the File Types tab ( as shown in Figure 1) to reveal the list of all of the different file extensions on your computer.
3. Scroll through the list and select the extension RAR for which you want to change the icon.
4. Once you have the entry selected, click the Advanced button.
5. In the Edit File Type screen (Fig.2), click the Change Icon button, shown in Figure 2.
6. The Change Icon screen will be displayed. There, you will see various system icons. Now click the Browse button and go to Program Files and locate the WinRAR folder. Double click on the WinRAR folder and when it opens, look for and find winrar.exe. Double click on the name, then select the icon you want and highlight it.
7. Then click OK to select the new icon.
8. Then click OK once more to save your changes.
(Note: You don’t have to reboot after you make the change, because you should see the change immediately after you click OK to save them.)
Post back if you still have problems.
cheers
(PS. To view the Windows Help file, clickon START, then HELP & SUPPORT)
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opalhort - The silicon compound between the heat sink and CPU is critical for proper heat transfer. Would not run the system until this has been corrected. Damage to or failure of your CPU from such improper installation, will void any warranty.
cheers
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...If anyone would like to know more info, just pm me....
Chris
Ah......thanks, but I think your picturesque description was indeed quite adequate. In fact I feel your pain, literally.
Hope your recovery is a speedy one.
cheers
PS - Be sure you follow the doctors instructions about, no "fooling around" for the next six months.
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bdenner - I vaguely recall reading somewhere that MS Paint in XP can cause a system crash, if the file association(s) are not set properly. Apparently the callup in XP is different than earlier Windows versions. Something you may wish to check.
Also, when you did the reinstall, did you first uninstall paint and all its components? The correct procedure would have been as follows: (You'll need the Windows XP CD-ROM)
1. Click Start, Run and type "control appwiz.cpl,,2" (without quote marks) or alternatively, use the Add/Remove Programs applet, Add/Remove Windows Components
2. Double-click Accessories and Utilities
3. Double-click Accessories
4. Uncheck Paint and click OK, and OK again.
5. Click Next.
Windows should now uninstall Paint brush.
Insert your Windows XP CD in the ROM drive and repeat the above procedure, but enable the Paint entry in the 4th step and click Next. (The required files will be extracted from the Windows XP CD and Paint reinstalled.)
For many years now, all OEM's have been responsible for support of Windows OS installed on their computers. The reason for this is, many OEM's (if not all) modify the original Windows version, for their own purposes. They add "stuff" and take "stuff" out. This complicates efforts for service people, attempting to solve problems like yours. Very likely a program or driver HP added themselves, is the real culpert.
Your best bet is probably to contact HP or do a full reinstall of XP, if you have the OS only disk. (Don't forget to backup critical data.)
cheers and good luck
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opalhort - A couple of additional thoughts come to mind, which you may wish to try, to further diagnois the problem. (I still believe your root problem is caused by excessive internal heat, but perhaps these added items may give us a clearer picture at to the extent of the problem and possible damage.)
1. If/when you can get to the desktop, right click and go to properties, then power settings. Make sure the settings are set to "Always On and "Never" for individual unit shutdown. (These settings in Windows are mainly for laptops, to preserve battery power. With desktops, the only one that maybe of some use, is the "Turn off Monitor", however if the system will not be used again for several hours, best to just shutdown everything.)
2. On occassion, the arm within a hard drive may "stick", especially with age. The next time you see the system fail to boot, give the main hdd a light tap with your finger or the eraser-end of a pencil. If the arm is sticking, this may be enough to release it. If the system now starts normally, then it is likely that hdd is nearing its useful life, and data backup should be done, without delay.
cheers
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joka - I assume your referring to the following icon
Your problem appears to be in the area called "file associations"
Try this. Open WinRAR, then click OPTIONS > SETTINGS > INTEGRATION
On left side, in column labeled "Associate WinRAR with" uncheck all boxes and then click OK and close WinRAR program completely.
Now reopen WinRAR, go to the same place and just check the one box labeled RAR. Close program again. (Note: Even thought only RAR box is checked, WinRAR will still open Zip files.)
Now test the program to see if you see above icon when you point it towards an RAR compressed file.
If you still don't see the WinRAR icon, do the following, in order shown:
1. Uninstall WinRAR using "Add/Delete" in Control Panel.
2. Reboot Computer.
3. Reinstall WinRAR, allowing it install itself using the default settings.
4. Open WinRAR and click OPTIONS > SETTINGS > INTEGRATION and check the RAR box on left side, if it is not already checked. Click OK.
5. Point WinRAR to a RAR compresssed file. (You should now see the "books" icon in main window in front of the files name.)
If above still doesn't work, it will be necessary to set the file/folder "Associations" for WinRAR manually. That can become a rather lengthy explaination, so would first suggest you check in your Windows HELP program for details. Just click on the HELP programs "Index" tab and type in "assoc" (no quotes). Look for a listing which says something like "associating file types with programs". Double click on the name, and select/read the help file for each topic you see listed and follow their directions.
Hopefully the above will help you solve the problem. Post back any questions.
cheers
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ukdog - To use most email clients for sending emails, you need to specify who (ie: Yahoo, Hotmail, GMail, tec.) is your default provider.
To change from one provider to another in Outlook (or Outlook Express), you need to set the providers name as "default", close the program and reopen it again, for the new provider name to be activated.
More info here. (Note specifically the link headed "Switch to another Outlook e-mail profile")
Note: If your on dialup, many providers will not allow you to send emails utilizing their servers, unless you are logged onto their system. Again, this is for antispam control.
One additional headsup. Many web-based email providers (ie: Hotmail, Yahoo, etc.) no longer allow access to FREE accounts using a POP3 client. This is due to past and current problems with spammers. Some will allow POP3 access is you have a PAID account, as they have your identy in case you "misbehave". Hotmail will allow remote access to PAID accounts but only to those FREE accounts established before January 2005. Another antispam control.
cheers
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For info:
Microsoft have released a new beta version of their antispyware and updates to older versions, which will add enhancements extend the expiration date to December 31, 2005.
More info and download links here
cheers
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Would second francois's suggestion at repair. If that doesn't work, then, provided you have an "update" or "full" retail version of XP, a reinstall as Firefoxx suggests, should solve the problem.
Just be sure to backup all your critical data before attempting a repair or reinstall.
good luck
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h90 - You've probably already done this, but double check your system for any possible backdoor trojans. Some of the latest (specifically aimed at servers) operate in the exact mannor your seeing.
More info:
http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?sh...35924&hl=trojan
http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?sh...=36152&hl=virus
cheers
PS - Sorry, don't need the Viagra (yet), but will keep your offer in mind for possible future needs.
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......One other thing I observed is that the CPU temperature is 52-55ºC compared to the temp. of only 40-43ºC I have on the new PC (Pentium4 3.2Ghz).
Also the VGA card (G-Force2) gets very hot compared with the new PC's G-Force4 card, but all fans are working OK.
The harddrives (2 physical drives 40Gb each) are also too hot to touch!
Any more ideas?
opalhort
Your 380 watt PS should be sufficent.
In general, when it comes to CPU temperatures, the first question is, how are those temperatures measured? Internal or surface. Some CPU do not have internal diodes, so only surface temperatures can be measured. (In general, motherboard/software temperature readings are not very accurate.)
Now comes the question: Were the CPU temperatures you indicated taken (1) while the CPU was "at rest" or (2) when the CPU was running at "max speed"? The 52-55ºC, on average, would be extremely high for most P4's during idle, but a little below max temp when processing at full speed. (All this assumes of course, approved cooling is in place and working.)
Then there is the question of support chips, which are somewhat less tolerant of excess heat than the CPU itself. It is desireable that any electronics, be it your computer, the TV, HiFi system, etc., have a maximum internal operating temperature of 10ºC or less above ambient. (Ambient being the surrounding air temperature.)
I would suggest you try running your sons computer with the tower's cover removed. If the room itself is very warm and humid, try placing a small fan so it is blowing directly on as much of the motherboard, as possible. If the tower sits inside any enclosure, move it to an area where air is free to flow in and around it.
Until your able to determine the exact cause of these problems, would strongly recommend shutting down the system, when not in use. The excessive heat you report for the hard drives, can greatly shorten their lives, and I'm sure the last thing you need right now to have one or both drives crash.
Good luck & post back your findings.
cheers
Adding Ram And Another Question
in IT and Computers
Posted
Kringle - The earlier P2's and P3's (and their Celeron brothers) mostly used 66, 100 and 133MHz SDRAM's. While in most cases they can be mixed, it is best to use a higher rather than lower recommended speed. As your system appears older than your friends, it may not give her optimum performance.
Check your friends make/model here for specific replacement type recommended, then check against your P2 stick to see if its a compatable type/speed.
And as camble advises, unplug the tower from the mains and make sure you've "grounded" yourself, before handling the memory (a wrist ground-strap would be best).
good luck