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DualSportBiker
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5,080 km wrapped up yesterday morning back into wet and distinctly cool Nonthaburi...
The final installment of the trip was kind of academic - a 'have to do' section.
Ubon back to Mukdahan (https://goo.gl/maps/A4Ji7) so I could cross the border and renew my 90 days brought me back to the river. I then rode south again to Mae Nam Song See where I called it a night.
The next day I rode to Buriram (https://goo.gl/maps/ZXZHS) and took a detour up to the closest point accessible to Phreah Viharn...
Stopped for a break at a reservoir which looked pretty low...
My bike was leaking oil again, and I took 4 hours to remove the oil from the air filter housing and get it running slightly better. The day was over, so I stayed in Ban Kruat and hung out with a bunch of local expats who are based there.
I was offered a paddock pass to the SuperBike race just 66 km away, and technical assistance there with my bike by a good mate. Unfortunately, my Mrs also needed my help with technical translation work and wanted to meet me her in Rayong at a friends house on the beach. So Friday morning I resigned myself to not completing the final leg and made for Rayong via Chantaburi from Buriram. https://goo.gl/maps/wko53
That pretty much wraps it up - the ride home was just that and nothing to report.
In summary, I'd do this anti-clockwise if I had the chance again; Issan is fairly flat and the roads are straighter and less interesting than the north. After riding 10 days of endless curves I got less out of the flatter straighter days that followed. 16 days of riding, 4 of which were half-days for mechanical issues, so two weeks just about covers it. I've almost seen too much; too many good views, too many corners (if that is not heresy) and too many traffic lights not working or used... Only one scary moment in Kanchanaburi on day 2, no spills or putting the bike down tired at the end of a long day, and not one single vehicle of any kind overtook me the whole 5,080 km! Not that I keep track...
Enjoy!
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Thank you sir!
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I typically ride to Mae Sot from Bkk for my border run. Tomorrow I collect my bike in Ubon and in theory heading to Mukdahan before riding the border south to Trat. Where is the most efficient crossing for my stamp-out, stamp-in?
Cheers...
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I flew back to CM last Wednesday and collected my bike on Thursday to continue my adventure around the border...
Day 1 - Chiang Mai to Piang Luang via Pai https://goo.gl/maps/cW7m6
I escaped Barcelona Motors by just before 10:00 am and had lunch and coffee in Pai - nothing special to report about that segment… I then road past Pai to the 1226 only to be told the road was damaged and reduced to steep and dangerous single-track in places; I was recommended to turn back. I tracked back to Pai and headed up the route I was guided on 4 years back. The road is around 70 + km of dirt track with the occasional steep section with ruts and dust. The steeper sections are paved thankfully. There are plenty of dusty hairpin bends and one section where you can see perhaps 10 km back to a ridge where the track is clearly visible. No panics, but a cautious ride…
Looking back at the hills I'd just crossed from Pai.
Spent the night in Piang Luang’s newest resort - dead opposite the other resort. 150 Baht per night has morphed to 650 for a fan and 1000 for air-con, but the rooms were great and the view was fine.
Day 2 - Piang Luang to Mae Sai https://goo.gl/maps/NhK1V
Despite being turned back at Ban No Lae where the road drifts into Burma (according to the soldier who just said “No”), this was an awesome ride. Only 380 km, but some pretty glorious scenery and more curves than I deserved…
Early start
Plenty of unpaved to start the day followed by hours of road in need of repair mixed with perfect new tarmac. Kept me on my toes, literally, standing for most of the day. I spent time with some Lao-Sue people (sic) and did a little research for a project I am working on. Can’t remember what I ate which means it was neither great nor evilly bad!
Lunched here
The road ahead is just visible...
Just before being turned away at the border
End of the road
Evening light
Day 2 - Mae Sai to Chiang Klang https://goo.gl/maps/4spnu and https://goo.gl/maps/vESHb
I did stray from the optimal border route here - planning error perhaps or concern over dotted lines in place of solid road lines… I can’t remember.
Morning light - can you tell the difference?
First time East of Mae Sai until I reached Chiang Khong - found a superb place for a break over the river and took full advantage. Even the thunder-room had a view!
View from the thunder-room!
I clocked up 50,000 km on the approach to Doi Phat Ang and stopped to record the view...
The road through Pu Chi Fa is fantastic!
I found a cheap, clean and comfortable place to stay on the main highway, southbound just out of town. Plenty of good food at the evening market. Knackered and in bed by 9!
View from the cheap hotel...
Day 3 - Chiang Klang to Ban Khok https://goo.gl/maps/52tNA
This was a tough day, and not even 400 km long!
Up to the border crossing, quick chat with an official about taking bikes across… The road is quite outstanding:
proper meal at Bo Klua View which made up for the cheap place I stayed the night before…
Then the three left turns after Bo Klua had me on some pretty small and twisty roads. I spend the next couple of hours in 2nd and 3rd gear on roads thinned down to a single lane. Expansive views, and not a soul to share them with. I rode for close to two hours without meeting another vehicle, parked or moving, or a person. I was actually pretty happy when I met a pick-up coming the other way.
Eventually around Mae Charim the road normalised with traffic and people. As one heads south, the mountains slowly become hills and the roads straighten up making for a faster more flowing ride to close out the day. If I thought I was knocked the day before, I was totally exhausted after this ride. One beer and I could not keep my eyes open and was horizontal by 8:40! There are half a dozen places to stay in Ban Khok and I think I picked the worse just by being too tired to ride around and check…
Day 4 - Ban Khok to Nong Khai https://goo.gl/maps/WjCl2
Interestingly my GPS states 493 km and the route on Google is logged as 413…
Overlooking the road just 10 minutes out of Ban Khok is this:
Anyhow, I took the road through Pu Soi Dao but Na Haeo National Park is not a drive-through, so I gave it a miss. I guess I need to leave something to come back and visit later… Again, at 8:00 am, the road through the park Pu Soi Dao was empty and an extreme pleasure to ride.
The highlight of the day was a 400+ year old temple at Saeng Pha (17.495271,101.02935) at which I took at hour to soak up the tranquility and relax. The rest of the route was pretty intense riding; right up on the border almost all houses are wooden and that all adds to the feeling of remoteness.
I got drenched near Pu Rua riding through a significant downpour in MX pants! Standing up for 20 minutes after dried me out a charm!
Eventually you hit the Khong and follow it through to Chiang Khan and the rest to Nong Khai. The road is is good shape with some roadworks, but nothing to slow one down significantly.
Day 5 - Nong Khai to Nakorn Phanom https://goo.gl/maps/Bym7v
An easy route as it turns out… I was headed to Ubon, but when I returned to my bike from lunch in Nakorn Phanom, there was oil on the road so I ended up losing 29 hours for repairs.
I found a reliable mechanic next to the PTT station that is in turn next to Tesco Lotus. He found the failed kludge of a seal Barcelona Motors Chiang Mai had tried on my air filter assembly and intermittent failure of the fan and cooling system pump. Not being 100% confident on a BMW, he took his time and eventually got it all fixed. Solid chap, not willing to do anything he is not sure of. His name is Pump. Spend the day relaxing and reading - it was hotter than hell by comparison with previous days in the hills… It rained again the next morning and was very pleasant for a couple of hours before heating up to 37º!
Day 6 - Nakorn Phanom to Ubon - straight down the 212…
I left NP at 5:00 on the nose and realised as dusk approached that I only had fairly dark goggles… I began to struggle with seeing unlit bikes as soon as the sun set, and was looking for a Fortuner to follow at a safe distance, but all the traffic was doing a law-abiding 80! Just as I was cleaning my goggles at Amart Charoen I broke the strap (stitching failure) and so pulled up immediately to a hardware shop in the process of closing. He sold me his last damaged pair of safety glasses for 50 Baht. When I took them off, the leg snapped so I rode with one leg stuffed in my helmet to Ubon where the other leg snapped as I pulled them off! Fit for purpose, but only just!
Nothing to report as I couldn’t see boo and was concentrating rather hard. Arrived in Ubon at 8:00.
My bike is now parked up at a friends apartment where I will collect it next week to complete the ride. I have yet another interruption to handle this weekend and will fly back perhaps Tuesday…
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Three of four of the biker funerals I attended in 2013 were for pillion passengers. The one solo rider was hit by a large tree uprooted in a storm.
I rarely have a pillion these days, but did ride slower to compensate for extra weight, although the Mrs was prone to sleep below 120...
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When living in Singapore, I used to love riding in the rain. One of the few activities there that made me feel alive! Did not like that place much...
No objections to riding in the rain here; it rarely rains for too long, and never rains when it is cold(er) so not much to complain about. I rode a route familiar to Dave Boo just north of Ban Rai a couple of years back; late afternoon, massive storm just rolled in and dumped. The road that runs north-south into Ban Rai town was under a foot or more of water and it was moving at pace - run off from the fields to the east of the road. Rocks and lumps of mud were carried across the road, and I nearly lost the front-end once. Wether that was a lump, or just volume of water, I couldn't tell, but it was pretty wild. I got some strange looks when I pulled into the gas station in town. I almost rode on to get benzine, but decided against it... Proper adventure that day!
I've been told to expect rain on the remainder of my trip, hope not while on unpaved roads as the Anakee 3 I have now are <deleted> on wet mud...
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Looks like I will get back to Chiang Mai and continue the trip on Saturday. Barcelona shipped parts yesterday - some seals and such. Should be installed by tomorrow at the latest. It will be good to be back on the road again. Have to back-track to Pai to ride north to Piang Luang before hugging the border pretty much all the rest of the way...
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Dave mate, I did the test on a loose surface as it makes it easier to get ABS to activate without scaring the living poop out of me! As for building up sand/gravel in front of the front tyre - never heard of that. Si Pavey taught us to get the front wheel up on the surface as soon as possible and keep it there. Initiate braking by accelerating hard to slip the rear wheel, then apply brakes. Counter-intuitive, but I was taught the same in 4x4, although I've not practised enough to say if it works for me - my ability to execute what I am taught is the issue... I may go practise sand in Rayong when I pass through on my border ride (currently paused...)
I noticed in the part I highlighted that you did the test on loose conditions. Isn't that the reason that dual sports widely have defeat-able ABS? For when you want the sand or gravel to build up in front of the tyre?
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I pay 10 Baht a pair from Pangolin. I wear them for 8 to 12 hours a day when on-site and they are comfortable. My trick is to slide 'em in deep and then pull out 1 or 2 mm. Depends on your ear-hole size, but I need to squeeze them as much as possible and pull my ears back to get them in, but once in properly I can't feel them. They last a day or two before they won't compress long enough to stuff 'em in...
I've never even considered listening to music while riding - too easy to lose concentration for that all-important split second...
Now now boys, calm down, 5555
My ear plugs cost 99 baht from HomePro. Couple that with the pancake speakers from Scala, I can listen happily to everything from Bach to the Cheeky Girls (from Romania?) when touring. Do I need proper stereo separation? Just imagine if a track has a car or train panning from left to right or vv. This could indeed be distracting when riding and listening to such tracks, not knowing if it's the music or a real vehicle on the roads.
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When I got my GS I played around with ABS on and off. As I learned where the edge was with ABS off, at low speeds, I noticed that I was stopping in a shorter distance than with ABS on and activated. The difference at low speed is small; a few off/on cycles at between 15 and 40 km/h results in an inch or two max. Since then I have mainly ridden on road and up country with ABS on and I am sure I have forgotten where the edge is. I think Mania is spot on on feeling brakes; once ABS activates, I might as well be driving a one of my Landys...
I think some more precise language is needed to describe ABS. In any situation where a rider brakes hard enough to activate ABS, a skid would have occurred were ABS not available. That alone will effect better stopping with ABS, as the skid and recovery (if any) will lengthen the stopping distance. And as you all know, at high speeds, or in a corner, locking a wheel, especially the front might end in an accident. IMO, this will be a major contributor to the percentage decrease in fatal accidents cited from some report in an earlier post...
In situations where the rider hits the maximum braking without activating ABS, they will achieve the best braking distance, however, if ABS is activated, the off/on cycle will add a small distance to the total braking distance for each cycle it performs. I have tested this myself, and at least with me, on my bike, I can repeat this consistently. If I keep the same pressure on the calipers once ABS is actuated, I can hear the wheels start to slide on gravel or sand, but there is no significant locking and braking is good. If I reduce pressure until the ABS is deactivated, braking is now smoother and according to my totally unscientific measurements, slightly more effective.
If you activate ABS by braking too hard you and don't reduce pressure to get to the point that ABS deactivates, you will add a few inches to your stopping distance. That is why I often turn it off in heavy traffic. ABS is great for many reasons, but it is not a guarantee of the shortest stopping distance in all situations - especially if you rely on it from beginning to end of a braking manoeuvre. I think it is a dangerous mistake to consider ABS as a fool-proof solution to braking, and I would encourage people to test it as I did (or better - not hard to) if they can.
As an aside, I did the basic course with Off-Road Skills here in Thailand and after body position the first thing we were taught was sliding the back wheel at speed, followed by controlling a front wheel slide. With the front brake loaded, in 1st gear and half-clutch, slowly accelerate while increasing braking pressure until the front wheel locks up - try and keep vertical for as long as possible, releasing the brake when you pucker up a little too tightly. It takes a while, but eventually most students can manage close to 10 meters in a front-wheel skid. I now ride off-road with ABS off most of the time...
Ride safe...
I am not convinced that the two are comparable; a system for voluntary sharing of information and a method to avoid incident or potential incident. However, my bike has selectable ABS so I have an opinion on that...
I believe better riders that myself, of which there are many, prefer to be fully in charge and in touch with their bikes. Up-country, I keep it on, but if ever forced to ride downtown I will often turn it off. The extra few inches it takes if one actuates ABS is all you need to kiss a cage's backside... And yes, I know that means I am too close.When riding downtown, I would have thought the reverse was better. There are more instances when we might need to actuate emergency stops (bikes and pedestrians popping out from behind other traffic, cars running red lights etc) and ABS would allow a safer and quicker stop?
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I am not convinced that the two are comparable; a system for voluntary sharing of information and a method to avoid incident or potential incident. However, my bike has selectable ABS so I have an opinion on that...
I believe better riders that myself, of which there are many, prefer to be fully in charge and in touch with their bikes. Up-country, I keep it on, but if ever forced to ride downtown I will often turn it off. The extra few inches it takes if one actuates ABS is all you need to kiss a cage's backside... And yes, I know that means I am too close.
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Last year two locals on bikes were killed by elephants in separate incidents along the East-West section around the spur of water where the shorter ferry-ride can be taken. I stayed the night at the ranger station visible at 20:50 in the vid. Came across from Huay Mae Kamin after sundown and could not find a place to stay and did not want to continue in to the Elephant zone at night...
You are right to be unnerved by the prospect of elephants!
Is that the ferry crossing across to Sisawat? That ice cream bike was also on my crossing lol.
It certainly looks like it. I was there on Saturday and decided to go around the lake rather than take the ferry. I'm so happy I did, great scenery, good roads and zero cars or even bikes.
I took that route as well a few weeks back. Eerily quiet, didn't see anyone or anything for quite a few kms. Lots of fresh elephant poo on the road as well, quite un-nerving at times...
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Have to; my Nolan helmet is unwearable without them - way too noisy... I wear them for work too so my ears are used to them...
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I was going over my GPS data for that section from Nuen Sawan to the pier - about 35 k.m. topping out at 65 km/h in places - hard to tonk it with panniers on, but still good fun. On the Way Chan section I hit 147 at one stage - pretty sure it was a paved section...
I stood for all the unpaved sections - boy did my feet ache after that. I got my training from Si Pavey a couple of years back and have not ridden off-road or on unpaved roads since. My body position slowly corrected itself, but initially I struggled with uphill sections unable to lean far enough forward to not need to use my arms to hold me on. Fixed that by pivoting from the waist... by the time I had dealt with the HMK pier run, the unpaved sections on the 105, and got to Wat Chan, my confidence was pretty high and I was riding pretty well on the dust and gravel. Well prepared for the road to Piang Luang next week...
Cheers.
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Good to meet up - hope your train ride was not too arduous.
My bike should be ready by Tuesday, I'll fly up and complete the ride hopefully with VDO restored and sound improved...
Cheers.
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Here ya go!
The rest was just errors and visiting buddies...
Cheers.
cool man!
please post the gmap of the rote you made bro.
it sounds a lot of fun. love to those long trips but my work does not allow me:(
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Sorry mate - was not paying attention last few days...
Hard to say. I am not a good judge of mechanics. However, he is methodical, takes his time, measures and remeasures as needed, and seems like his is focused on good results. He is located on Soi Samakkee near Chaeng Wattana. PM me for details.
Cheers.
Where is your mechanic located? I'm planning to change the rear spring on my bike as well as thinking changing the front springs and fork oil to 5W as suggested by other Diavel riders.
Is your mechanic competent enough to work with exotic bikes like BMW and Ducati? Would you recommend him for the above mentioned job?
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Just saw this... Can't for the life of me remember or work out what I might have wanted to say. Needless to add, I've not found any scones...
Help; my search for "scone test" yielded pastry!
Scone (noun)
1. small biscuit (rich with cream and eggs)cut into diamonds or sticks and baked in an oven or (especially originally) on a griddle.
"Scone Test" ??? Eating biscuits before the ride??? LOL
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OK, so here's a brief trip report, given as currently it is on pause...
Thursday - Day 1.
Having prepped the bike for days, it was rather disappointing to have my 3 year old battery die at the first fuel stop on Kanchanapisek, just 11 km from home! I knew the battery was not in great shape and chose not to replace it 3 days prior to leaving. Lesson learnt. Six hours to get a replacement meant I left 'for real' at 17:40, allowing me just enough time to sprint to Kanchanaburi town.
Friday - Day 2.
Moving by 8:00 for breakfast at the market downtown, I hit the main 323 by 8:30. It was too cold to ride hard; I needed extra layers to keep me warm. Pit stop and pics taken at the pass - significantly more developed than my first visit in 1991 in a Series II 88' Land Rover.
Lunch in Sangklaburi before riding over to the wooden bridge. Panorama view from lunch:
On the way to the bridge a minivan jumped out from behind a truck it was following too closely. I was perhaps 40 meters short doing 80. I just managed to pull to the left, avoiding an old pedestrian in the process. My mirror missed him by an inch! I turned around, chased him down and gestured for him to stop. Keeping my calm and refraining from colourful vocabulary, I explained just how wrong he was. He accepted my POV and we left it at that...
I managed to lose the goggle strap mount for my Contour camera in the minutes after - I was a bit shaken up after the brush with the van. Anyhow, the upshot is I only have a few mins of vdo...
I turned off to Huay Mae Kamin at 14.646258, 98.705963 and rode 55 km of mainly unpaved road to the ferry. The second and third pics posted above are at Nuen Sawan ranger station, and some point about half way through. Could have done with my helmet cam at the place - three pick-ups ploughing towards me, the wind carrying the dust away to the right, all front-lit by low sunlight resonating red with the jungle as the background... oh well.
I made the reservoir 50 minutes after the ranger station to find the ferry on the east bank, and not willing to come get me. I offered to pay a pick-up's price of 300 and so ended up on the east bank myself at nearly 19:00 in pitch black with my GPS showing three places to stay within a couple of clicks. All were closed! I found a shop open who recommended me to ride towards Kanchanaburi which I did. I entered the long extension where the second ferry cuts across and decided I was not willing to play with any elephants, so turned around again. I spent the night at a ranger station at 14.605168, 99.170315 Sleeping on the floor was suboptimal, but it was reassuring to hang out with them; they fed me, offered me their blankets and matting to sleep on. Can't fault the hospitality, and we had an entertaining evening. Apparently two died last year trying to ride that section of road between midnight and 06:00...
Saturday - Day 3.
I could not get passed 60 km/h until 9:30 as it was 9ºC when I woke at 7:00! Only when I'd cross the pass over to the Suphan side did it feel any warmer. Anyhow I followed Dave Boo's route and kept as west as possible to Mae Wong then hit the Mae Sot road from the 1108 and passed through Mae Sot early afternoon. I grabbed a coffee north of Mae Sot and rode to 3 clicks north of Tha Song Yang and stayed in Thasongyang Hill Resort which has large and comfortable rooms all made of teak.
Checking in
Bike and pagoda pic
and view from Pagoda
Sunday - Day 4.
Nothing special to report here - the road is fantastic, the views are special, the temperature was 9º again - a real pleasure to ride mid-morning when warmer. I rode straight through to Mae Hong Son by 15:00 and called it a day. Had an excellent massage and a good meal and was snoring by 22:00 I got to the Salaween river early enough to catch mist on the water and great light...
Salaween river
Curve-central
Evening light on the main temple of MHS
Monday - Day 5.
Confirmation that I have on-site work to do on Saturday 21 in Amata Nakorn meant the trip was going to change. I found the route to Piang Luang that starts along the airstrip in Pai in preparation for riding it someday soon, and then rode to Ban Wat Chan instead. I was aranged to meet a guide I had hired three years back at 19.072692, 98.303706, but he was running late, so I headed to Samoeng on the 1349. Between 30 to 50 km is unpaved, but they are busy grading and laying the tarmac. What an excellent road - loved every minute of it.
Back to Wat Chan - road is visible left of my mirror...
Lots like this curveway to heaven, but unpaved
I crossed paths with Prathip the guide along the route - had just enough time for a chat before he had to chase his customers down and I had to think about riding in the dark again... Arrived in Chiang Mai at sunset, checked in to a place to stay, and headed out to meet Papa Al for a beer. He has ridden around 5,000 km to reach CM the way he did - pretty wild ride by all accounts. Leave it to him to write it up.
Edit:
On a hairpin bend not too far from Samoeng I got on the gas too early and lost the rear wheel. I had my inside foot of the peg and was over the bike, so rolling off the power and forcing the bars forward was easier than had I been inside the bike. I hit full-lock before I knew what was going on! I am still surprised I got out of it OK. I put it down to luck and low speed...
Tuesday - Day 6.
I took the bike to Barcelona because there was too much oil leaking for comfort. They confirmed a dead seal was the cause and so I've left my bike with them, will complete my client job on Saturday, then fly back up and collect my fixed ride to complete the mission!
Until then, normalcy dictates!
Cheers.
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I was just at the Pornping Inn Tower hotel - it has been sold and you can no longer park your bike up front...
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Pretty fantastic. Rear wheel skips a bit, but I've been pushing... Rear tire has been skittish too. Bumps are easier.
It was a blast on gravel. I made the ferry in an hour from the checkpoint on Sawan hill. No scares, good traction.
Looks like a good trip, even though you had to cut it short.
How was your front suspension performing? Happy with the results?
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All around the border - all done and dusted
in Motorcycles in Thailand
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Oh, while I remember... As for big bikes not being suitable for Thailand as suggested in a thread on hot bikes, I wish I'd known before I set out on this trip... would have made all the difference... Dolt!