djlest

On 10/5/2023 at 9:01 AM, Viapea said:

There is no need to use deemoney, its now possible to transfer up to 2 milj baht/day directly from your Thai bank app and money arrives the next day so much faster than deemoney.

I did this mon, thu and wed this week and worked perfect.

I have Bkk Bank.

But first you need to visit your Thai bank and ask them to open up so you are allowed to transfer 2 mil/day, was easy.

what documents did they ask for? workpermit?

im curious but is WISE now connected to Dee money, ive heard you can use Wise to send money from Thailand and it may utilize dee money in some way. anyone know more?

8 minutes ago, atpeace said:

need to start thinking of how to resolve this without their assistance.  many options I'm sure with a little thought.   How can you redirect the water coming off their roofs?  Nothing wrong with asking them if they have any ideas if done politely.  It's Thailand anything goes but also remedies are are not too expensive.  Be creative!  I have some ideas how to have fun with the project which would include a water pump but that would probably not make the neighbors happy. Lots of conservative ideas...

Yes my thoughts also, i need some creative construction ideas. The water run off is my main concern & damaged adjoining walls.

A water pump lol, yes i could also redirect my entire roofs run off to come down directly onto their plastic roof, i was testing it with my pressure washer yesterday, its loud. Lol

Yes thanks for the replies

the property was a good price and was next door to our existing property, so it was a land grab for possible extension, the land is 3 sizes more than the house & just 100m from a New skytrain station.

not the ideal neighbors, but it is what it is.

some ideas ive had.

instead of the concrete drive i dig  a gravel drainage channel say 50cm wide around the perimeter so run off goes down the wall and into that. I am also contemplating rendering the wall and using some kind of waterproof roof sealant.

as for the other side with blue tiles & spikes. Hmmm a higher wall perhaps with guttering added? 

im actually on friendly talking terms with both neighbours. But i have not brought up these issues yet, just testing the waters & thinking of a work arounds.

9 minutes ago, OneMoreFarang said:

Have you considered asking a professional to inspect those walls (and maybe also the rest of your new property)? 

Yes had one around a few days ago,

just wanted some secondary advice from foreigners that may have had similar walls they have rendered.

I know if not done correctly it will fall off, i have seen it done with galvanized chicken wire type structures and bonding agents. 

6 minutes ago, Peterw42 said:

Its sounds like you bought a house next to the airport and you are now complaining about the planes.

Your absolutely right it is next to the airport.

I know my options are somewhat limited and i am aware of these so called law abiding citizens (opportunistic) ways.

if i can put forth some construction ideas to each side to consider so my side does not take all their rain water, i think it could be a peaceful proposition.

if however it gets ignored, technically it should be a clear win. But tit…

After the pressure wash yesterday..

would a render skim stick do you think? I remember my father years ago rendering a wall that always got wet and damp and it all crumbled off a year later. 

Just now, transam said:

Pressure wash it, most of that paint will come off, and the black will be gone. Can buy a PW for around 2000 bht..

Thanks i did pressure wash it yesterday, whilst a lot of paint and black does indeed come off.
but The walls are too badly damaged, the brick is crumbling partly from the neighbours deciding to build  their house to the wall and then some… which caused stress cracks and the water runnoff too.

Any thoughts on whether its possible (or wise) to render old semi painted walls such as these?

i have considered knocking them down but the neighbors are well! Lets not go there the pics speak for themselves.

there is also the water drainage issue ????

39 minutes ago, djlest said:

Thanks yes thats the logo the contractor showed me. I think its that one.

Could not find the yellow boxes on rs th website though.

17 minutes ago, SomchaiDIY said:

Thai pipe brand good quality for all yellow fitting box and pipe

 

Logo of company on all product

 

 

 

Nano brand medium quality box ok for home uses out of sun

 

Top quality box only from special supply like RS component or same

Thanks yes thats the logo the contractor showed me. I think its that one.

and over 100 yellow boxes to replace ????
 

back to the consumer box - din rail versus plugin?

i was going to get a din rail but a contractor i had in says the dsquare plugin fuses are good quality and lasted 30 odd years already, to get a schreiber and reuse existing breakers?

Any more arguments to go din over plugin? Aside from Schreiber being the only choice of box.

crossy mention din is good for upgrades?

forgive me ive only ever messed about with plugin types. 

On 5/14/2022 at 5:10 PM, Crossy said:

Definitely worth checking again for leaks.

 

Is the tank full / refilling ok?

 

Your regular re-start could also be a leaky check-valve on the inlet side, you can sometimes hear them gurgling when the pump is off.

 

Your overheating could also be a bad capacitor, they're cheap and easy to replace so swapping it out wouldn't hurt.

Thanks crossy great info, much appreciated. 
 

On 5/14/2022 at 1:10 PM, Crossy said:

Argh!!! ^^^

 

Our wiring is all in the plastic boxes except for behind outlets and switches where the regular metal back-boxes are used. In the dark (no UV) they will last forever and no sharp edges to injure your wires (and no possibility of a short if it should get hurt)

Thanks crossy, i see there are cheap brands of yellow box and others costing 100baht plus per box. Just curious if there are any recommended brands that can deal with extreme heat and wont fall to pieces.

i was looking at the nano brand, any thai brands i can keep an eye at. A contractor told me to look for the thai safety standard logo on the box but gave no brand name.

The water pump seems to stop working every day. To get it working again requires turning off the pump breaker, waiting 5 min then turning breaker back on. The breaker is not tripping out.

the pump is on a 10a breaker and its the following pump.

any ideas on potential issues?

i have checked toilets for leaks incase the pump itself has an auto shut off. No visible leaks.

problem started just this week.

however i did notice the pump would start quite regularly even when no water was being used, i just put that down to pressure drop from the 2 floor. Im not too familiar with this type of water system to be honest.

any ideas,?

Wow its tough finding large planks of wood here. Does anyone know some places around bangkok area i can source the following or similar?

i have some ceiling work & concrete work and so do not require pretty wood, and old but solid wood will do.

i tried thaiwatsadu & a small local wood shop. Whats everyone else using?

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

Yeah ^^^.

 

Hob/cooktop on it's own circuit, give the oven it's own circuit too if it's built-in otherwise it can go on a regular outlet, at least two other circuits for outlets plus one or two outlets that are not on RCD/RCBO for your fridge and freezer.

 

All outlet circuits in 2.5mm² on 20A breakers, no UK style rings please, radials only.

Thanks crossy awesome!

what is your opinion on yellow plastic boxes versus the metal terminal junction boxes in the ceilings?

im sure they are much stronger or longer lasting than the yellow boxes, but whoever put mine in here never heard of rubber grommets, having said that ribber would probably break down in this heat too.

whats the current norm? Just look st all these sharp edges & stripped cables!

Quick question:

So decided to shop for a new DIN consumer unit and need to calculate how many subs, i may as well future proof the place even if i dont decide to stay.

with regards to kitchen appliances and common thai wiring (im used to uk rings)

Dishwashers, washing machines (with heat elements etc) electric hobs, electric oven.

is it common practice to have each one on its own breaker? I know AC & shower units are the norm, how about dishwasher & washing machines? Or even large refrigerator? 
 

hows everyone wired their newer builds?

13 hours ago, lopburi3 said:

As said above the new normal is 63 amp main breaker for the common 15/45 amp meters feeds most of us have.   Back in the metal fuse days believe it was common to have 80 amp main fuse (although my brain may be shorted worse then the electrics as date back too many moons).

Thanks lopburi yes it makes sense, i believe this old housing estate was built maybe 30+ years ago by europeans & thais, so could be an older reg but perhaps not so common everywhere.

5 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

Moo Baans had strange (to me) requirements 25-30 years ago.  So, maybe just that.  The main breaker just needs to be big enough for maximum draw but is rarely needed to protect anything.

Yes i checked another house next door and it is also on an 80a breaker. It seems the whole moo baan is.

does this rule still apply or can i go ahead with a 63a im wondering.

7 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Converting to dual-bus isn't difficult but some action with a hacksaw is needed ???? 

 

Actually plastic isn't illegal in the UK but the box must be "fire resistant" which the manufacturers are interpreting as "metal". In reality I (and many others) still prefer plastic, less hazard if something comes loose and flaps around inside.

 

For your incomer, what size meter do you have? On a 15/45 a 63A incomer is common but in the past you could get away with pretty much anything.

 

 

Thanks crossy, tbh im not sure what size meter there is. The house was unoccupied for 20 yrs and the meter has been removed i guess.
Also the cable to the house is underground for 100m then there is metal box up on a pole, i presume the rest of the moo baans meters are inside, but they are not visible & locked.

not quite sure at the moment, i will try and get a bit more info. 
i would have thought it was 63a like most places this size in bkk, its only a 3 bedroom house 2flr, 65sqm.

48 minutes ago, BritManToo said:

I use Nano for everything (past 3 years), they seem to work perfectly.

Come complete with MCBs, live bus bar, neutral bar, earth bar.

When I ham handedly short something out (rare), click and they're off, or more often the rabbit chews through a mains cable (frequent) rabbit survives with no apparent damage.

 

Can't comment on RCBO as I don't use them, but the main and individual circuit MCBs work perfectly. Quality metal box as well. The knock-outs are a bit hard to knock-out.

Yes i think i will get one, did not see any dual bus nano CUs yet.

i hear the plastic boxes are illegal now, in UK at least. Higher Fire risk apparently, so metal is preffered.

does anyone know why my old box has an 80a main breaker? Just curious.

Thanks really appreciate the comments, i think i will upgrade to a newer unit, was looking at 8+8 double bus Schneider. Not too sure if the double bus is really worth it though.
 

just a quick observation on my old unit, the main breaker is 80a. Is that the norm here? 

4 hours ago, BritManToo said:

Buy new ........ not expensive (1,250bht delivered)

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/nano-plus-14-rcbo-50a-63a-12-kerry-i2323214425-s7850510554.html

Excellent, Wow yes thats a great price, with breakers too.much cheaper than the Schneider units.

has anyone used these Nano brands? How reliable are they? What the quality like? 

13 hours ago, Crossy said:

You should be able to get an RCBO to replace the main breaker. Check the size because that CU looks a bit small top-bottom. 

 

OR

 

Replace individual MCBs with single width RCBOs so you can protect only the "risky" circuits and not lose everything if there's a problem.

 

Obviously both solutions would need the plug-in type unit rather than DIN.

Thanks crossy
Im not too familiar with consumer units but im guessing its a DIN right?