bluejets

4 hours ago, novacova said:

If you’re unable to find the half pavers, the workers can score with a chisel on both sides and then chisel in half.

Better to cut with a concrete saw, much better finish and a lot less waste.

7 hours ago, bdenner said:

Can't remember I time, over the past 22 years, where I boarded a domestic flight WITHOUT my passport!!!

Same here.........

On 1/13/2024 at 5:59 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Alternatively run an earth cable from a stake in permanently damp ground to the refrigerator.

Which will do sweet f/a.

5 hours ago, motdaeng said:

the screenshot from your app shows 6.9 units generated power, x 30 days resultes about 200 units / months.

We've already been through this so no, what is shown there is kW...units are kWh....... 6.9kW is instantaneous

13 hours ago, LoeiI said:

8 x 540W panels generating in perfect sunny conditions would produce around 4000W ??   

Yes, I would imagine that would be a good estimate, BUT, that is at peak time (instantaneous).

To give you an example, my system is 22 panels @250W per panel. ( installed back in 2016).

Peak (5000W) usually occurs in January around 11am.

Total for the day can be as much as 30 kWh, winter maybe around 22-25.

The main difference from you to me would be in consumption.

Where I might use 10kWh a day, yours seems a lot more running you RAC's. 

There is another difference that Thai PEA have so far to think about is, we get paid for any feedback to the grid.

When first installed, rate was around 6c/unit....then it crept up slowly each financial year to around 10c/unit before declining again down to the 6c mark.

Lucky for me though it started again to increase (political pressure I imagine) where it now stands at around 13.5c/unit (for Qld).

Poor buggers in Vic get around 3c/unit I believe.

Be-all end-all, mine paid for itself in around 4 years. (with gov subsidies of more than 60%)

I also run a storage hot water system(250 litres) which comes off the inverter before feedback.

A timer switches it off the grid between 4pm and 9am next day to ensure that 99% of the time(not raining) it runs off my generated power.

So in all, my HW is essentially free, and average payment for feedback per 3 month period is around $150 to $200.

Until Thai PEA do similar, you will never be in that boat though.

I'm waiting to see if they even move a small amount in that direction and I'll be putting solar array on the house in Khon Kaen province.

What I meant was you were showing readings of 19W from the array, 16W used and 3 W as feedback. 

Although these figures add up, it also shows generated power at 6.9kW and that is labelled as "todays generated power" .......generated power over time (today) would be in kWh , not kW.

No idea what this Pac is supposed to represent, can only guess at it being instantaneous power.

In all though I can see where you are consuming bucket loads of power when you say only one of your RAC's is 17,000BTU (around 5kW)

What is the actual size of your array?

You say the inverter is around 3.3kW but without knowing the panel size, it's really irrelevant as to power being generated.

Asked before but seems to have been lost.

If the Pac is indeed instantaneous power, it does seem a bit low if you had a 3kW array.

Figures you supplied don't make any sense and conflicting both with info you have already supplied and the readout, such as it is.

11 hours ago, Sigma6 said:

Google tells me AC are cheaper than DC, and more efficient, so it makes sense.

More than likely cheaper as they make/sell many more.

Bullshit on efficiency is just that, it's again, more than likely around 7w coil(inductive at that) , so if you're going to start sprooking "efficiency" , it would be almost impossible to detect let alone justify.

11 hours ago, LoeiI said:

could it be down to a bad connection or some other problem you may have heard of before ?

Without actually being there and seeing for myself, difficult to say.

However, something is not right, that's for certain.

If the array is around the 3kw mark you should be getting more than 3 units a day...one reading you show goes to 7 which is closer but no prizes...should be more like 10.

It's not rocket science...if you get 3kw generated for 1 hour that's 3 units (3kw x 1 hour = 3kwh or 3 units)...so even at 5 hours a day you could expect to see 15 units total, not 3.

So either the array or the inverter is dodgy, or the app giving incorrect data (unlikely but possible) 

Can you read directly from the inverter unit, does it have a display of total readout per day/week/month?

Might be time to get them back to check the system if it's still warranty.

If not, get another mob to check it.

As for the system itself, there should be complete details of the actual array and inverter size written on the install document rather than continually guessing what is what.

23 hours ago, carlyai said:

Australians can't spell. :)

Open a new discussion, I'll bet you get a gazillion replies and just as many variations on spelling.

So you are using 20 units a day from PEA and 3 units from your solar...something wrong there.

As Crossy quoted, should be higher than 3.

I get 30 units a day from a 5kw system(summer) and around 20 in winter.

Seems your are facing the correct direction and angle should be somewhere between 15 to 20 degrees.

No shading at any time during the day..??

16 hours ago, LoeiI said:

Hi all I got some solar panels fitted last year

Do you have any details on size of the system?

You must really hammer the air conditioner if that is a monthly account WITH a solar install.

Better get their finger out and make some moves, 2024 is already here and will be half gone before they stop talking about it and do something.

7 hours ago, brianthainess said:

a Thai guy there simply pulled the plug out and reversed it problem solved.

I seriously doubt that......sounds very much like an across the counter quote on pub night.

The outlet is not controlled via any switch, so in theory, doesn't make any difference.

The "tester" is a two bob trinket, while showing active is present in the neutral pin, it does not give any affirmative indication on earth.

One illustrated example shows one thing for open ground while another shows it as different indication.

I'd be more concerned about the voltage levels shown.

6 hours ago, Crossy said:

Yeah, I use loads of those chaps, available in many sizes/current ratings.

Me too......in the right environment.

9 hours ago, Crossy said:

You need some sort of strain relief/support for the hanging cable, don't rely on the connector for support.

Simple correctly fitted saddle does the job.

11 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

The induction hob has about 7000W, most connectors are not designed for that current.

Procedure we would normally use is a j-box with appropriate current handling capability.

Earth frame of any metal enclosure. Normally not a problem with the Clipsal giant plastic j-box.

Failing that, do away with your fixed screwed terminal block and solder the fixed wiring and oven lead tails together, add appropriate insulated connector (would be unavailable in Thailand) so tape over.

One may find some somewhere but I gave up looking a few years back and took 200 of each (single and double screw connector) with me from Aus.

Note:- connector shown has ability to terminate 3 x 6mm2 cables in each connector.

On 12/25/2023 at 6:52 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

That is certainly one reasonable way to power them. However a non electric version would probably be far more economical hear due to hot sun.

One could go that way but the cost difference is massive.

13 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

If you get a stored water heater

I've seen these run directly from a rooftop solar panel as well.

No inverter, connect direct to the dc from the panel.

A 250 litre would keep 2 people happy for days.

19 hours ago, webfact said:

It is reported that the Ministry of Tourism and Sports will seek about 50 million baht from the Central Fund to buy insurance coverage for tourists visiting Thailand over the New Year period.

....and after that..???......... what happens.....don't see why Thai should have to pay for some cheap charlie's insurance.

As usual, the devil is in the detail.

I always arrange travel insurance for both my wife (even though she is Thai) and myself when coming back to Thailand, part of the cost of the trip.

Combo insurance is around 50% extra for both of us compared to just one. (me)

In this instance I see the latest fees are around AUD$350 for the 30 days away from Aus. for both of us combined.

No way top of the cover range but it does cover basic accident, hospitals etc when we are there up to around $5 mil I think.

I'm just curious why it never crossed the minds of the government to make travel insurance compulsory for entry to Thailand.

21 hours ago, bamboozled said:

My landlords are having the termite/ant guys come by again to spray for these buggers

That will get rid of you...not the termites.

They move under cover and under ground.

One way to stop them is injecting around any wall that abuts with exterior.

We have been setting outside traps, 100mm downpipe around 300mm long buried in the ground with "inviting" pieces of pine inside. Top is capped with removable cap so one can inspect from time to time.

When they appear, load baits down inside the tube. They take back to their main nest and kill the queen ant. Apparently queen can live for more than 10 years otherwise.

Baits are in the form of a powder one mixes with water.     https://www.bunnings.com.au/superway-500g-white-ant-termite-bait_p0287717

On 12/14/2023 at 9:58 AM, Crossy said:

That would satisfy Aussie regulations.

 

BUT.

 

Thai regulations require a minimum of 10mm² to your rod.

Possibly due to their using solid rather than the more flexible, stranded conductors we use in Aus.

Either way, 6mm square is the Aus standard as you say, but take a look around you at the rest of Thai wiring.

I wouldn't be too quick to condem Aus regs.

On 12/11/2023 at 9:34 AM, MJCM said:

The Mains cable (coming from the meter) is 25mm² ALU so what would then be the earth size be?

6 square mm copper.

16 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

MCBs trip if more current flows through them then their max current rating (i.e. 16A).

RCCBs and RCBOs trip because of leakage (mostly max 30mA = 0.03A).

No...combo's will trip from either and usually there is a trip indicator showing whether over current or earth leakage.

The earth leakage may be 30mA but the trip current would depend on many conditions including current rating and class of breaker.

Still waiting for photos of sw board setup from OP to make further educated comment.

1 hour ago, liddelljohn said:

The Oven  and that causes MCB  to trip but not the RCD

1 hour ago, liddelljohn said:

and works perfectly  when disconnected from Earth

These two comments contradict each other.

Are the above part of the one breaker or two independant units...??

Photos thanks.

Other than that I'd say you are sufferning from effect of voltage drop and your disconnecting the earth is simply nothing to do with the situation.

Get PEA to check any and all connections at the pole/meter........(twist and tape territory in Thailand..........aluminium mains capital as well)

Use gas where mains cover long distances and you insist on using undersize mains as per Vdrop calculations.