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tifino

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Posts posted by tifino

  1. 10 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

    The new recoil is smaller so you will need a bit more 'English" to start the thing.

    yes a bit more EckyThump      - considering the original one failed in a big physical way...    In the first photo one can see the original all plastic unit only had plastic extrusion ridges, so I was surprised it had lased as long as it did. The new one uses the more conventional plastic and metal centrifugal combination.   

    The failure happened after the Concreter mate I lent it too, wasn't used to using such a small gennie - and treated it like how you would a stubborn lawnmower ???? 

  2. 1 minute ago, VocalNeal said:

    I'm thinking you need about 3mm thk aluminium/aluminum. But I guess you could "laminate" Milo cans to get 3mm. As it looks as if you can get to both sides of the adaptor to secure the smaller piece.

    yes there is some airspace... I bolt the New Recoil Housing to the Plate, and then bolt the Plate to the Motor...   The Centrifugal would already be axial-bolted to the Dog.  This is then becomes a simple reversal for maintenance purposes...

  3. 3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

     

    I'd probably use 1mm sheet, but I have it in stock.

     

    I've seen some fairly large pre-cut circles of sheet in Thai Watsadu, could be worth a look.

    and it'd always have to be steel/tin instead of alloy - the flexing could do in the aluminium ????    

    Kicking myself I used to have a box of copper'ish HardDrive media platters taken out of an old (and I mean really old) mainframe computer drive unit.  

  4. 1 minute ago, Crossy said:

     

    Yeah, me too, is it still on?

     

    Meanwhile could you leave the rim of the tin lid intact for exta strength?

    yeah I'm already hoping same about the Rim - as an original reasoning or using a paint tin lid ????  Only limitation is the confined space in the enclosure for such a lerge radius of Lid...  Currently considering a new temporary template with a Milo lid for fitment purposes only...  

  5. 1 minute ago, Crossy said:

     

    Maybe use a double thickness of tin lid.

     

    also, I currently have the respective 3 holes of each staggered opposite the originals... (see the sketch on wood in the background)  However the closer I can rotate the groups of holes axially closer,  the stronger it might also be?  The only limitations on the 'thickness' used, is how much (or little) clearance required can be achieved... too thick and the dog won't sufficiently contact the centrifugal mating surfaces...

  6. 21 hours ago, tifino said:

    actually made a mistake... It's ummm a 2kg tub.  ????  

     

    anyway heres 2 photos... of trhe Old & New parts together; and another showing intended orientaion of the retrofitted parts... 

    The original; Recoil housing had mounting holes 10cm apart\The Retrofit Recoil housing has holes 7cm apart 

    If FIT is okay for this template of the adaptor plate? - I'm thinking a tin paint tin lid may supply a  suitably strong final product?  

    667138470_OldandNewPartstogether.thumb.jpg.7668de9ff0ca035f836af98c60f7a172.jpg 

    1279197545_RecoiltoDogClutch.thumb.jpg.b16f179ab87f5f3f6b298fd1ad4f5928.jpg 

     

     

    I am a great fan of 'ScrapHeap Challenge' ????  

     

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  7.  my little generator khrapped out, in that the Pull StarterRecoil Assy did a total self-destruct...  of course it is one of those generic china-built 'throwaway' gennies - for which there are No Spare Parts Replacements...  SO the task was to replace the entire pull start recoil with whatever might be available? but which will also fit into the miniscule compartment surrounding that end of the motor. 

    Well, I sourced some whippersnipper RopePullRecoils on eBay, dictated solely by what was 'small enough' to fit in that space??    

    Well this weekends task is to create a steel adaptor plate that will mate the engines (Recoiler) mounting points, with the mounting points on the new little Recoil unit ???? 

      Last night I fashioned a 'template' unit out of the plastic lid from a 1kg Yogurt container - namely due to it being very thin, thinner than tinplate even... I know there won't be much latitude regarding the thickness, when a final steel/tin 'adaptor plate' is put in situ; in regards to providing the correct clearances between stationary and rotating parts...

       I am still visualising that this project is a sort of scaled down version akin to making an adaptor plate for mating a 4cylCarClutch, onto a v8 engine ????  The final Smoke test may be interesting to watch, albeit from behind safety goggles...

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