
In the jungle
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Posts posted by In the jungle
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The alternator is obviously working.
I would try covering any bare wires with a smear of epoxy from Homepro or wherever. I haven't tried this before but I think it would work in your case.
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16 hours ago, Tioga246 said:Agreed Guzzi... And thanks Johng...
My plastic gear just broke in half haha... It was cracked so no loss there... Now the headache of getting it off... Don't worry I will manage that... Spring located in the rite hole... Now tomorrow I go Krabi town and get the gear shaft...
Now on the other side of engine we have the coils and there like a pick up sensor, it's either worn or been filed down or something....
That ignition timing sensor is around 1000 Baht for a genuine one. Provided it is giving a consistent spark and accurate ignition timing I would keep it. You can check ignition timing and also ignition advance with a strobe light. Advance is controlled by the spark box.
Also a concern is the insulation on the alternator stator. Have you got bare wires on those windings? Difficult to tell from the photo.
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One small tip I can add to the excellent illustrated description above is this.
Coat the clutch "top hat" in a thin film of grease so that it stays in place in the casing during assembly.
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Worn out drive belt and/or centrifugal clutch is my guess.
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I have seen valves adjusted in Thai bike shops but I have never seen feeler gauges used.
Generally the way it is done is to get the most long serving spanner monkey to pull the rocker arm up and down while adjusting until it makes an approved clack, clack, clack noise.
I am not endorsing such a process but it is what I have seen.
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Because you don't know the standard volume of fluid per 31mm dia. leg I would throw in a guesstimated volume (200ml or whatever), measure the fork oil level for that and then go up or down on level based on how the forks perform.
On my back of an envelope calculation I reckon 240ml per leg would be nearer the mark as a start point.
One thing I am dead sure about is that 100ml per leg is wrong. I doubt that volume would even keep the damper rod orifices continuously covered.
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On my SP I use 322ml per fork leg as per the SP manual. That is a fork oil level of about 125mm measured with the fork springs removed and forks fully compressed.
The SP manual does not tell you the fork oil spec which is annoying. I am using Motul 10W fork oil which you can get from Lazada. I settled on 10W by trial and error.
My local bike shop uses hydraulic fluid intended for backhoes and the like of unknown weight as his one size fits all fork oil. Not sure about the wisdom of that.
SP fork tubes are 35mm od. I think earlier model NSRs use smaller diameter fork tubes which would probably require a different/lesser volume of fluid but I cannot verify what I am saying about fork tube diameter as I haven't seen another NSR around here.
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I love the CB400F but if it beat up your Norton Commando 750 the Norton must have been running on one pot.
The CB 400 Supersport. Doubtless a rock solid Honda but it is 20 years old and there are no parts in Thailand. The price tells you the book is dodgy.
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On 9/4/2019 at 8:10 PM, thaiguzzi said:
You need to find a good local shop who will go through the whole bike. Every market town and city has a shop that is competent and knowledgable with these older 2 strokes.
Completely rebuild the motor, gearbox and clutch. Put a brand new carb on. Rewire the whole bike or fit a new harness c/w rewound stator and new coil and cdi.
Parts and labour depending on .... i'd say 4-6k.
Be like a new bike and enjoyable again.
Good luck!
I think your ballpark cost is rather optimistic.
I recently did a top end rebuild on an NSR SP using all genuine parts and the parts bill was a little under 15K.
Cylinder = 10,000 (unavailable new from Honda but specialists have a few for SP)
Piston rings = 574
Piston = 1494 (only one size available)
Cylinder head = 895
Exhaust gasket = 724 (yes really, same as NSR250)
Piston pin = 214
Small end bearing = 128
Head gasket = 95
Spark plug = 87
I didn't keep a record of the price of other small parts used such as circlips, base gasket, coolant, cylinder studs and some other things. I bought all the parts myself and Honda prices have since undergone an annual revision.
A genuine carb for an NSR SP is about 3K. I think a CDI is about 5K. Wiring loom also about 2.5-3K. NSR parts are surprisingly expensive and most are made in Japan.
I think the only cylinders available new are for the SP but if it could be retro fitted to this bike you would need the matching CDI which controls power valve as well as spark. I have been looking for NSR parts for about two and a half years and I have not seen anything other than the SP cylinder offered.
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Search for Dedor Man on Facebook.
He has good English and quite a lot of experience exporting parts including to South America.
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According to the Honda AP website the "all new" Wave 125i has an LED headlight so you might want to see how that works.
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I am looking forward to the first child.
"Harry involved in live fire incident."
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5 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:
Uh oh, somebody has been anal enough to check mpg figures on a stepthrough. An underbone. A Wave...
Yes we get it. If you don't own a big four stroke by some failed European manufacturer you are not a real man.
Measure, tweek, fettle, balance. Fix the stripped threads and oil leaks. Yada yada
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22 hours ago, AllanB said:
Yes all very well....bla bla bla..... so how does it compare with the Wave, we were getting 204-206 mpg when we tested ours when new. We paid 34k baht for that......
Different tank that's all....
You have me beat. I only got 199 point something when I was running my 110i in. Annoyed me at the time.
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Found the spec now.
It's a four pot radial mount caliper at the front with a 300 mm disc.
At last a Thai bike without a sliding caliper at the front.
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I see there is a new Honda 150 up on their website though there was no spec page when I looked.
Some fairly trick stuff on it for a bike that costs just under 100K.
USD forks, radial mount caliper, ABS, LED lights, banana swing arm that looks like it may be aluminium.
Engine is described as an "all new" DOHC single but somehow I have my doubts about that.
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How much is the bribe for the "certified price evaluation"?
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3 hours ago, AllanB said:
Water or fuel gaskets, yes out of corn flake packets using a small hammer, or a dirty finger, but not head gaskets surely?
I would not try and make a head gasket but I know an excellent shop in Bangkok that can. If I ever need one for some of the rarer stuff I have I would trust them to do the job.
For the A100 I am pretty sure a head gasket will be found locally and cheaply. Which leaves me perplexed as to why anyone would try and make one.
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Correct. Essentially the same reason why I keep an old bike that used to belong to my late father. It can never be legally registered here and arrived here by methods I am not going to detail. I keep it in good working order but I probably have not ridden it in more than a year.
You are right also about most A100 parts being available. The problem is that most of the readily available stuff is Thai copy. In some cases that is fine but a fair proportion is either a poor fit or made from substandard materials.
I am trying to use good used genuine parts for the important stuff but you really need to hunt the stuff down and get hands on with the part to judge condition. A photo can deceive. I have had some luck and good deals so far.
I am not much of a 2T fan and I am not trying to present the A100 as some kind of greatest ever classic. Though even forty years on in pulling down the engine I am impressed by the quality. Generally though I like my bikes four stroke and from the big H. But I did think that there might be some cautionary value in showing some of the things Village Bike Shops can and may do to your bike if you give them the chance. Looking at the state of this old Suzuki reminds me why I do all vehicle maintenance myself.
It may also be of interest to anyone who happens to own one of these bikes.
5 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:Sentimental value then. Unnerstan.ateriials
You will be surprised how much stuff is still available for these old 2 strokes at a decent m/c shop. There are two in my local market town that continue to amaze me with their knowledge and parts stock.
Take the old barrel, head and piston in, even the c/cases, i'm sure someone will have gaskets, seals and even a piston kit available.
Crank/con rod rebuild will be no problem too.
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3 hours ago, VocalNeal said:
In many industries throughout the world gaskets are hand made on a daily basis.
You do realise that whatever goes wrong next time will be your fault!
I use hand made gaskets and also make them myself.
But the guy who made this one failed to grasp that the hole in the middle has to be circular.
And of course everything will be my fault.
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1 hour ago, thaiguzzi said:
No offence, but why bother?
Can't be sentimental value.
My wife's father took his last ever ride on this bike. He was hit by a pickup truck and died from his injuries.
She asked me to rebuild it to remember him by.
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Probably a worse mechanical crime was that the footrests were kee nok welded onto the frame. The footrests were not from an A100 and they hadn't even got them level. To top that they had managed to weld the whole mess to one of the engine mounting bolts so I had to use an angle grinder to remove the engine.
I have already started the frame repair trying to emulate the way suzuki welded it in the first place. A day's work in that so far.
I will take some photos of the wreckage tomorrow.
NSR 150RR ....Help Needed....
in Motorcycles in Thailand
Posted
The water pump gear.
On the NSR SP the design of the shaft and gear is different. There must be a reason why they redesigned it and it wasn't to make it cheaper. From memory the SP gear is still plastic. Looking at your photographs I am pretty sure you could retrofit the SP parts.
Personally I never buy copy parts if the originals are available.