Silencer

Are you are referring to the EU-China Comprehensive Agreement on Investment (CAI), which was only agreed to in principle and not started, and by all accounts appears to be dead in the water now? Or maybe you are referring to headlines last week including, "EU Goes on China Trade Offensive After Getting ‘Played’? Yeah, the names might change but the game doesn't.

Amazing that a country like the US, with talented folks across many fields and business empires, gets stuck with mostly loser politicians on both sides of the aisle. Today, its the extremes of both parties that get all the attention (squeaky wheel gets the oil) and thus outsized influence while those closer to the center are routinely ignored or chastized. This is the biggest problem with American politics today, when the extremes control both sides, middle ground/compromise/rational policy is not possible, nor desired. Us vs Them, seen outside the US as well, more and more. Trump is an idiot and Biden senile (or close), great choice for many Americans! So, I'll vote with my pocketbook, deciding which one will be best for it. Higher, altruistic goals will have to wait for more sanity to return in governance.

Are you ill, off medication, or have reading comprehension difficulty? Her lack of control does not apply to her initial reaction to the kick, it is her susequent (obvious to anyone paying attention) reaction that she now is claiming PTSD. What a freaking drama queen, with said lack of class and control.

Both the Swiss idiot and this Doctor are a piece of work. Apparently, neither has any class or control.

About the ph and HCL (or Muriatic acid) balance. I have read a few pool forums that discuss that their pools shoot up to 7.8ph VERY quickly after HCL is added to bring it down to 7.4-7.5. However, then several of their pools stabalize at 7.8 for several weeks (sometimes months), before dosing with HCL again when they see it rise above 7.8. Others are adding (as you suggest) a couple times a week, others once a week, others once a month to keep it below 7.6. I understand this is what you mean by play around with it, as every pool is different. My question is that IF I find my pool stabalizes at 7.8 for weeks, without additional acid added, would that be ok? Then, if I see a rise in ph above 7.8 I can dose with acid again to lets say the 7.5 range and see if it stabalizes at 7.8 again for weeks (recognizing 7.2-7.6 is the preferred range). Question than becomes is 7.8ph really that bad if easily maintained? Ofcourse I won't know my actual results until I monitor myself.

Thanks to all that provided advice. Will follow. I understand that I will need to keep on top of chemistry as conditions change.

My pool build is about finished (concrete/waterproofing/tiling completed over two months ago), pump room, jets/returns, lighting finished this week, and next step will be adding water. I have a Pentair Inteliichlor IC40 chlorine generator and a 1.5hp variable speed pump. Pool is approximately 70,000l. I have never owned a "salt-water" chlorine pool. I know I will need to play with pump speed and chlorinator to monitor things like ph and salt levels to find the right balance of electrical cost and pool chemistry. Goal is 2-3 turnovers a day at low speed. -Am I correct in calculating almost 250kg (about 10 bags of salt) should be used to go from "0" to the target salt level? -Is 3200 ppm a good target salt level? -The Pentair product manual says normal household table salt is all that is needed for the chlorinator. I also see pool shops sell salt bags. I assume either product is ok, and if so, where would someone buy large bags of table salt here (in Thailand generally)? -What would be typical salt usage (family of three, in pool a couple hours a day) be per month once pool is running efficiently? I know I need to monitor myself and compare with what chlorinator is showing and go from there...so just looking at typical salt bag usage for a pool my size. -Is it best to dump the salt in the main pool or overflow tank, or no difference? -What other chemical(s) do you suggest I have on hand? -Finally, any recommended pool monitoring kits/tools I should invest in to make my frequent checks. Trying to be prepared to take care of the pool myself without hiring a company for service. Thank you to anyone that can help answer some of these questions to get my pool off to the right start.

I am on Samui...so already prices at most shops are at a premium, and some over-the-top markups. Ordering on-line saves costs, somewhat offset by shipping costs, and the inability to directly reach out to the seller for any problems. Pool around 80m3. As I am just finishing my housebuild, budget is also an issue. My preferred shop primarily deals with Emaux but can supply any brand. With that as background, major components I will be purchasing are: -Main pool pump (1.5hp), but likely a variable speed pump, for continuous running and multiple turnovers day. Likely will go with Emaux 150 but understand better quality pumps exist (from Heyward, Pentair, Astralpool,...) - 2 hp Emaux SB pump for spa jets - 2 hp Greenco air pump for 8 floor bubblers in spa. - Emaux V700 sand filter (Bobbin wound). - Salt water chlorination system. I am looking at Pentair's Ichlor 40 system ($$$) and a Heyward system ($$$$), maybe even a Blu Works system ($$+) but shop is telling me I should consider a system by a company called MANO ($$). From what I can find, they are a Thai company, with some US based components. His rationale is the system is less costly, easy to maintain and has good features. Since finding reviews on Thai systems is near impossible, I really don't want to be a guinea pig. Anyone heard of them or have an experience as a user? Any other comments on the potential major components list? Sanity check before making large purchase decision. I understand that if you are not going top end there will always be risk, but hoping to avoid a disaster choice. Cheers.

I understand pre-mixed concrete bags (including the stones) are not available here. I'm not a concrete/cement expert so I would like a recommendation (Brand/type) for the best alternative cement bag mix to use to build a simple retaining wall, stacking individual unopened bags, as in the attached picture. I have mixed plenty of concrete for other projects around the house but I am looking for a simpler solution for this project. I am aware of the need to add drainage points behind and through the wall, especially as my ground is mostly rocky clay.

Didn't this train leave the station long ago? Thailand has been in cahoots with Chinese security overlaods for awhile. Most striking recent case was the picture of blindfolded Uyghurs with CCP escorts sent on 1 or 2 planes from Thailand back to China for who knows what punishment. Many believe the Erawan Shrine terrorist attack in 2015 was in retaliation.

Yes. I have read on this forum about proper surface preparation/cleaning and don't let them water down the paint, to ensure good adhesion and long-lasting. Want to avoid the result in your pic.

My builder approached me today to discuss exterior/interior paint colors. He has recommended Berger paint for both. Any experience with this brand? For the exterior, I was originally thinking of recommending that NEW PLASTER PRIMER DULUX WEATHERSHIELD SUPER PRIMER 5GAL https://www.homepro.co.th/p/227417 be used (Acrylic paint), then a top coat of WATER-BASED EXTERIOR PAINT DULUX WEATHERSHIELD ULTIMA ADVANCE SEMI-GLOSS 5GAL https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1193023, With Berger, a similar option is NEW PLASTER PRIMER BEGER SHIELD WEATHERGUARD E-4000 5GAL https://www.homepro.co.th/p/208207 (Acrylic based) and their water-based exterior top coat https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1220582. The Berger paints are actually slightly more expensive than DULUX but I have not read many comments about them. It appears that either option would be ok. Do you agree or have you had any negative issues with Berger (or Dulux) exterior paints.

Had a Western wife, 17 lovers before we hitched up. Never worked, 22 years together. She got a furnished house, a car, and 30K USD/year for 10 years after divorce. Had a mid-Hiso thai lawyer wife, three lovers before me. 3 years married. Paid her way for things she wanted (designer stuff, Mercedes, etc), I picked up the shared expenses. No costs after divorce. Have an ex bargirl now (almost 5 years), 5 barfines before me (about 3 weeks work). I paid for all at first, including 20k for family/month, now she makes a couple million baht a year in real estate,. Paying for half the house we are building now. She wants to buy us a new car. I pay all shared living expenses. Which one is the whore? What does it matter? Not everyone is the same. Your mileage may vary. Life is good...go enjoy it rather than looking down on people.

Today, I visited a builder friend's house project and noticed he had used large (60x60) glazed, light and dark grey, swirl pattern, tiles for the pool. He claims the tiles are sold as "double-fired" for increased water resistance, but who really knows. At a resort I visited last year in Thailand, they used massive 60x120 green marble-look tiles in their pool. I have a quote for Pebble Crete, which is fine, but I want to consider these larger pool tiles as an alternative. From internet reading, strong bathroom glazed floor tiles are approved for swimming pools. Has anyone here used 60x60 (or larger) tiles for their swimming pool and can offer some advice? For those interested in using bathroom floor tiles, here is some information on the type to use... "Bathroom ceramic tiles suitable for use in a swimming pool are rated floor-grade in toughness. Also, if a bathroom ceramic tile is used in a swimming pool, it has to have low water absorption ratings. Class 3 bathroom ceramic tile types are suitable for most floor-grade applications. Bathroom and swimming pool ceramic tile also has to be either vitreous (0.5 to 3 percent absorption) or impervious (0.5 percent or lower absorption) to moisture. If you want to ensure that the bathroom ceramic tile you use in your bathroom can go into your swimming pool use a glazed porcelain ceramic tile. Porcelain ceramic tiles are just another type of ceramic tile and are extremely durable and water resistant. All porcelain tiles are at least vitreous in terms of water absorption resistance. Glazed porcelain ceramic tiles stand up well to frost and cold temperatures found outdoors, too, though they tend to cost more."

My thoughts: 1) This should have been discussed, and settled, BEFORE marriage. 2) In my opinion, your wife DOES owe some support to the grandparents that raised her, assuming they are not independently wealthy, or making a decent income now. That is how it works here. If she had not married you she would have still been expected to help out. There is almost no "social saftey net" that they can expect from the government, pensions, retirement plans, 401ks. The kids they raised, in your case the grandkids they raised, are that safety net. The alternative is to be a jerk and say F them. 3) She can accomplish #2 in one of three ways. Ask you to support them, use her allowance to support them, or get a job and support them. Every couple in your situation will have to decide what is best. In my case, I mostly supported them for 2-3 years, now my wife makes plenty of money to support them herself. Especially if the level of monthly support is low, this should be a no brainer. Your wife should be able to estimate actual needs. 4) No need to support others in the family, unless you or your wife want to, but be prepared when her real parents get older, they will likely come calling as well. Discuss how to handle that now. Good luck.

I have a new pool being built and would like knowledgeable advice on a few items from those that are more familiar than I am. Pool Size: About 80,000 liters (5mx11m), with a connected spa (1.5mx3m) Type: Overflow System: Salt-water Pipe size: 50mm/2inch Run: About 5m. Pump room: Will be level with the bottom of the pool/spa and below the level of the overflow tank. I'm thinking of either Heyward or Astral Brands for pump and filter. Main goal is reliability/longevity. My quick calculations show a 1.5hp pump to be the right size (turnover around 7 hours). I know my filter needs to have a greater capcity than my pump. Questions: 1) Does a 1.5hp pump seem to be correct? I understand a VS pump is also an option but have no idea why it would be a better option. 2) For the filter, what product do you recommend it be filled with for best results? 3) Spa: It will have a seating bench with three jets and 8 "bubblers" on the floor. I have been given conflicting advice whether I need a separate pump for the jets and bubblers or whether both can use the same pump (note the spa is open to the larger pool, not a separate area). Any recommendations on how many pumps I really need, sizing/hp? 4) Lighting: Planning on 6 LED lights with a low profile. Although we don't expect to do much night swimming, I understand LED lights, while economical, are not as bright as Halogen. What would be the minimum recommended size/wattage to ensure at least a decent brightness? Brand recommendation? Thank you for any thoughts you have to help the pool to be matched to the right equipment.

Since this video depicts scenes that are supposedly admired by some segment of the Thai population, the foreigner ATM scene could also be interpreted as something admired, namely, making "easy" money from a foreigner. Whether to buy the latest i-phone, support mom and the kids, save for a new family home, or jackpot-get married, some in Thai society are comfotable with this line of work and the potential it offers. They just added the steroetypical foreigner to add some comedic flavor.

Yes. The use of 7 baht is clearly a marketing strategy. Crossy has nailed the real world figures.

Oh...and at the house my family has rented almost 4 years, we have never used the AC. Only had coolant put in last week as we had out of country guests for 5 days and wanted the house to have working AC. However, got spoiled sleeping in a cooled down room the last few nights.....oh-oh! ????

Unfortunately, I don't have a "bill/usage" figure to go by as I'm just starting the build now on Samui. 70% of concrete work done. I have estimates for kW usage and amp loads though, although I will switch to gas hob to remove 6kW from that previous estimate and now will go with more extensive water collection/retention and filtration system. I will be using aac block and SCG green roof insulation (and other tips read on the forum), trying to do what I can to minimize a/c, fridge, workloads. Solar was a luxury "afterthought", which I'm assessing now. I like the idea of initially starting with 2 5kW inverters and a dedicated carport roof for the panels. Ultimately I might add this system AFTER the house is built as I don't see any great advantage in designing the system into the existing build schedule.

Hi Crossy. I know you like to run the numbers (and we all appreciate that!) so I thought it would be worthwhile passing along to you the company's numbers for the system described. Generation: 1584 units/month average, equating to 11,088 baht/month or 133,056 baht/year (at 7 baht unit price).

Wow! Did not think of that benefit. Maybe not all but with a reduced capacity system, I will look into that. One less worry about the roof.

Thank you all for your comments and information. I have a lot more leg work (computer time) and home analysis to do before making the commitment to solar. I DO NOT need to be off grid. Getting a "good" solar system (at a fair price) that addresses a significant percentage of my energy bill will be good enough, as many of you have done. I'll keep researching and get other options from the current company quote and others. As for roof directions, not ideal, but maybe ok due to size. 3 roofs single sloped @ +/- 18degrees. 170 sqm facing Northeast, 105sqm facing Southeast, and 60sqm facing NW. Can add car parking area roof sloped to south as well. After 9-10AM, property in full sun at the moment.

I just started a new house build and am considering whether I should go big and "go solar", even though the budget may not allow it. Since I only have estimates on my power usage (from a member here) vs actual usage data, that is what I used when I contacted a local solar company. The only change would be to go from an electric hob to a gas hob to reduce electrical needs, but the quote below included an electric hob in use. Also, I really don't anticipate high A/C usage at all which could further influence the sizing calculations. But best to go worse case and have everything that exists in the house being used on occasion. My knowledge of solar panels/cells/installation is limited to seeing panels on roofs, so zilch. I have not been tracking pricing as well although I know costs for products have been going up the last few years. Given all that, I would be very interested in comments from knowledgeable members on the following quote I received to put in a full solar hybrid system, anything that looks amiss, or anything I should add, and ofcourse any comments on costs based on a non DIY install. Btw, the company would also include a special breaker box that would prioritize certain systems (and disconnect others) during a power outage. Subject: 10 KW Solar Hybrid System with Batteries 1 pcs Deye Sun- 10 KW Hybrid , Inverter 135,000.00 THB 24 pcs 550 Watt Monocrystalline half cells Solar Panel 13.2 KW System 204,000.00 THB incl. grounding 1 pcs Breaker Box including ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) 25,000.00 THB 1 pcs Mounting for Panels 36,000.00 THB 1 pcs All Cables including DC Cable 4mm² 25,000.00 THB 1 pcs Installation 40,000.00 THB 4 pcs 5,0KW Lithium LiFePo4 batteries 48V 100ah (90% useable) 20 KW all together 280,000.00 THB 1 pcs Grounding 5,000.00 THB If you do the math that comes out to 750,000 baht. More than I was hoping for but maybe that is close to reality. When I don't even have an electric bill in hand, it is impossible to calculate my actual cost savings and thus ROI. I'm of the mind that maybe I should wait until I have actual use/cost information before making this type of commitment. If nothing else, this can be a data point for others who are considering such a system.

My original plan was Qcon but I was not committed to it, he knew that, and he wanted to confirm with me before ordering. He said the labor was a bit lower for Qcon and they would be "about the same" overall cost when materials and time factored in, so either was ok for him from the financial side. He's not nickel and diming me, letting me make last minute adjustments (two staircases, window/door sizes, even a small extra interior space added) with no cost impacts so far. I need to stay on top of the work but no complaints. Most of the concrete work completed now.