Silencer

Today, I visited a builder friend's house project and noticed he had used large (60x60) glazed, light and dark grey, swirl pattern, tiles for the pool. He claims the tiles are sold as "double-fired" for increased water resistance, but who really knows. At a resort I visited last year in Thailand, they used massive 60x120 green marble-look tiles in their pool. I have a quote for Pebble Crete, which is fine, but I want to consider these larger pool tiles as an alternative. From internet reading, strong bathroom glazed floor tiles are approved for swimming pools. Has anyone here used 60x60 (or larger) tiles for their swimming pool and can offer some advice? For those interested in using bathroom floor tiles, here is some information on the type to use... "Bathroom ceramic tiles suitable for use in a swimming pool are rated floor-grade in toughness. Also, if a bathroom ceramic tile is used in a swimming pool, it has to have low water absorption ratings. Class 3 bathroom ceramic tile types are suitable for most floor-grade applications. Bathroom and swimming pool ceramic tile also has to be either vitreous (0.5 to 3 percent absorption) or impervious (0.5 percent or lower absorption) to moisture. If you want to ensure that the bathroom ceramic tile you use in your bathroom can go into your swimming pool use a glazed porcelain ceramic tile. Porcelain ceramic tiles are just another type of ceramic tile and are extremely durable and water resistant. All porcelain tiles are at least vitreous in terms of water absorption resistance. Glazed porcelain ceramic tiles stand up well to frost and cold temperatures found outdoors, too, though they tend to cost more."

My thoughts: 1) This should have been discussed, and settled, BEFORE marriage. 2) In my opinion, your wife DOES owe some support to the grandparents that raised her, assuming they are not independently wealthy, or making a decent income now. That is how it works here. If she had not married you she would have still been expected to help out. There is almost no "social saftey net" that they can expect from the government, pensions, retirement plans, 401ks. The kids they raised, in your case the grandkids they raised, are that safety net. The alternative is to be a jerk and say F them. 3) She can accomplish #2 in one of three ways. Ask you to support them, use her allowance to support them, or get a job and support them. Every couple in your situation will have to decide what is best. In my case, I mostly supported them for 2-3 years, now my wife makes plenty of money to support them herself. Especially if the level of monthly support is low, this should be a no brainer. Your wife should be able to estimate actual needs. 4) No need to support others in the family, unless you or your wife want to, but be prepared when her real parents get older, they will likely come calling as well. Discuss how to handle that now. Good luck.

I have a new pool being built and would like knowledgeable advice on a few items from those that are more familiar than I am. Pool Size: About 80,000 liters (5mx11m), with a connected spa (1.5mx3m) Type: Overflow System: Salt-water Pipe size: 50mm/2inch Run: About 5m. Pump room: Will be level with the bottom of the pool/spa and below the level of the overflow tank. I'm thinking of either Heyward or Astral Brands for pump and filter. Main goal is reliability/longevity. My quick calculations show a 1.5hp pump to be the right size (turnover around 7 hours). I know my filter needs to have a greater capcity than my pump. Questions: 1) Does a 1.5hp pump seem to be correct? I understand a VS pump is also an option but have no idea why it would be a better option. 2) For the filter, what product do you recommend it be filled with for best results? 3) Spa: It will have a seating bench with three jets and 8 "bubblers" on the floor. I have been given conflicting advice whether I need a separate pump for the jets and bubblers or whether both can use the same pump (note the spa is open to the larger pool, not a separate area). Any recommendations on how many pumps I really need, sizing/hp? 4) Lighting: Planning on 6 LED lights with a low profile. Although we don't expect to do much night swimming, I understand LED lights, while economical, are not as bright as Halogen. What would be the minimum recommended size/wattage to ensure at least a decent brightness? Brand recommendation? Thank you for any thoughts you have to help the pool to be matched to the right equipment.

Since this video depicts scenes that are supposedly admired by some segment of the Thai population, the foreigner ATM scene could also be interpreted as something admired, namely, making "easy" money from a foreigner. Whether to buy the latest i-phone, support mom and the kids, save for a new family home, or jackpot-get married, some in Thai society are comfotable with this line of work and the potential it offers. They just added the steroetypical foreigner to add some comedic flavor.

Yes. The use of 7 baht is clearly a marketing strategy. Crossy has nailed the real world figures.

Oh...and at the house my family has rented almost 4 years, we have never used the AC. Only had coolant put in last week as we had out of country guests for 5 days and wanted the house to have working AC. However, got spoiled sleeping in a cooled down room the last few nights.....oh-oh! ????

Unfortunately, I don't have a "bill/usage" figure to go by as I'm just starting the build now on Samui. 70% of concrete work done. I have estimates for kW usage and amp loads though, although I will switch to gas hob to remove 6kW from that previous estimate and now will go with more extensive water collection/retention and filtration system. I will be using aac block and SCG green roof insulation (and other tips read on the forum), trying to do what I can to minimize a/c, fridge, workloads. Solar was a luxury "afterthought", which I'm assessing now. I like the idea of initially starting with 2 5kW inverters and a dedicated carport roof for the panels. Ultimately I might add this system AFTER the house is built as I don't see any great advantage in designing the system into the existing build schedule.

Hi Crossy. I know you like to run the numbers (and we all appreciate that!) so I thought it would be worthwhile passing along to you the company's numbers for the system described. Generation: 1584 units/month average, equating to 11,088 baht/month or 133,056 baht/year (at 7 baht unit price).

Wow! Did not think of that benefit. Maybe not all but with a reduced capacity system, I will look into that. One less worry about the roof.

Thank you all for your comments and information. I have a lot more leg work (computer time) and home analysis to do before making the commitment to solar. I DO NOT need to be off grid. Getting a "good" solar system (at a fair price) that addresses a significant percentage of my energy bill will be good enough, as many of you have done. I'll keep researching and get other options from the current company quote and others. As for roof directions, not ideal, but maybe ok due to size. 3 roofs single sloped @ +/- 18degrees. 170 sqm facing Northeast, 105sqm facing Southeast, and 60sqm facing NW. Can add car parking area roof sloped to south as well. After 9-10AM, property in full sun at the moment.

I just started a new house build and am considering whether I should go big and "go solar", even though the budget may not allow it. Since I only have estimates on my power usage (from a member here) vs actual usage data, that is what I used when I contacted a local solar company. The only change would be to go from an electric hob to a gas hob to reduce electrical needs, but the quote below included an electric hob in use. Also, I really don't anticipate high A/C usage at all which could further influence the sizing calculations. But best to go worse case and have everything that exists in the house being used on occasion. My knowledge of solar panels/cells/installation is limited to seeing panels on roofs, so zilch. I have not been tracking pricing as well although I know costs for products have been going up the last few years. Given all that, I would be very interested in comments from knowledgeable members on the following quote I received to put in a full solar hybrid system, anything that looks amiss, or anything I should add, and ofcourse any comments on costs based on a non DIY install. Btw, the company would also include a special breaker box that would prioritize certain systems (and disconnect others) during a power outage. Subject: 10 KW Solar Hybrid System with Batteries 1 pcs Deye Sun- 10 KW Hybrid , Inverter 135,000.00 THB 24 pcs 550 Watt Monocrystalline half cells Solar Panel 13.2 KW System 204,000.00 THB incl. grounding 1 pcs Breaker Box including ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) 25,000.00 THB 1 pcs Mounting for Panels 36,000.00 THB 1 pcs All Cables including DC Cable 4mm² 25,000.00 THB 1 pcs Installation 40,000.00 THB 4 pcs 5,0KW Lithium LiFePo4 batteries 48V 100ah (90% useable) 20 KW all together 280,000.00 THB 1 pcs Grounding 5,000.00 THB If you do the math that comes out to 750,000 baht. More than I was hoping for but maybe that is close to reality. When I don't even have an electric bill in hand, it is impossible to calculate my actual cost savings and thus ROI. I'm of the mind that maybe I should wait until I have actual use/cost information before making this type of commitment. If nothing else, this can be a data point for others who are considering such a system.

My original plan was Qcon but I was not committed to it, he knew that, and he wanted to confirm with me before ordering. He said the labor was a bit lower for Qcon and they would be "about the same" overall cost when materials and time factored in, so either was ok for him from the financial side. He's not nickel and diming me, letting me make last minute adjustments (two staircases, window/door sizes, even a small extra interior space added) with no cost impacts so far. I need to stay on top of the work but no complaints. Most of the concrete work completed now.

Thanks for all the replies/experiences provided. I'll talk with the builder next week and see what he recommends, his crews experience level with each, hear him explain the installation process, and go from there. I don't use AC much (however, will have several installed) but maybe I'll get grumpy as I age and be happier with a cooler interior. ????

Has anyone found any problems with hanging heavy objects (kitchen cabinets, AC/units, stone wall murals, etc) or adhesion issues with AAC? I'll need to look up the correct fasteners for heavier loads but if they work well, that eliminates that concern.

Yes, it appears my builder is offering the WK-8/WK8-1 style or AAC.

The large cinderblocks are 39cm length, 19cm height and 19.cm width. Pic below. I have seen homes in the area using double block, these cinderblocks, and AAC blocks.

When I looked up the cost for each product (20cm think vs 19.5cm thick) it looks like QCON is at least 3 times more expensive. I have read many of the pros/cons of QCON (primarily insulation qualities and workability vs strength in hanging very heavy objects on it and render cracking). Regardless, all things being equal, wouldn't it be a no brainer to go with the upgraded QCON block or do the large concrete blocks offer some advantages I should consider. Looking for a sanity check before making the decision. Maybe some of you choose one over the other for non cost-related reasons I should consider.

Agree 100%. He's goofy AF, not someone I would want to watch, but has succeeded. Much different experience and outcome from many members here.

Divorce is expensive. Wonder how long she will let him play? Just another episode, like countless others, that have played out over the last decades.

Yes, on reflection a gas hob. Thank you very much for your rough calculations and recommendations. Much appreciated!

-Household size: 3 people -Large (5x11) pool and spa area (water jets), saltwater system. - Western kitchen (without dishwasher), so fridge, oven, microwave, toaster, hob. - A/C available in 4 rooms, 3 bedrooms and living room but expect very low usage. (We hardly ever use now) - Three TV's - Many recessed lights (60), outdoor lights (20) but again not used all at same time. - Indoor/outdoor ceiling fans (5) - Well/pump - Simple water heaters in 3 showers. - Motorized gate - 190sqm indoor space/320sqm roofed area No other major electrical usage items I can think of.

I have a new home construction starting soon and want to have the main power line connected to the house underground (about 15m from pole on street) and come up into an enclosed (ventilated) 3mx5m concrete floored room that will serve as the main electrical room, pool pump room, and for general storage. I will ofcourse discuss this with my contractor and everything may go smoothly. However, I would like to have some knowledge in understanding the correct way to bring, bury, protect, and insulate this main up into the room myself. The government electric pole is 1m from my perimeter wall and I assume the first step would be to bring the main over the wall to "my" electric pole, then down to the earth, where it can be buried, run to the new room, come up from the floor and into the main box. I am looking for what the proper materials (wiring type, conduit) should be used and what depth the main should be buried at as standard or best practice. Also any potential problems/issues with this type of arrangement. Again, maybe this is done routinely, so should be no worries, but I see so many installations where the wires are run above ground along several poles to the house connection. P.S. The land is not prone to flooding/sloped.

Thank you gentlemen. I had no considered Shera board but after looking over some of the products they offer, this might be the solution for me.

I want to have my builder install a wood, or wood-like, covering on the soffit of a large overhanging roof. I will try to attach a picture to be more clear. I have found a couple companies that supply a synthetic teak looking wood but the price seems prohibitive (800-1300 sqm). My builder is planning to hand make it all out of wood if I don't find a substitute. I'm thinking the synthetic approach will be better for a variety of reasons. Has anyone run across something like this that may be at a lower price point than what I have found so far?

Was the motorbike stationary? No mention if alcohol was involved, or excessive speed, and police still investigating. The one accident I had, where I scraped the car in front of me (on a motorbike) vs. going down a ravine, during a sudden and hard braking event caused by a car pulling onto the road unexpectedly, ended up with police saying I was not at fault and the car pulling out would pay for the damages to the car I hit. What a surprise that was (I think everyone was glad I did not go down the ravine). Not sure I would have gotten off free like that in my home country in the same situation. Not all is gloom and doom here just because we are foreigners and easy pickings.