PJHassselt

it seems Seajae is not interested in his own post anymore.....

This is a hard one.... I know a few vets who want to perform Euthanasia. They are locally considered as "Bad veternarians" while for me they are heroes.... If the dog really is suffering try to perform euthania yourself. The most friendly way is with any kind inert gas. Lock the dog in a closed room with a fire from charcoal. Or any available gas, like Argon, CO2, Helium. These gasses will cause a very fast coma, and a very fast painless death.... It all are sad advises.... Good luck!

I have a few of these. They give nice information. It looks good, and they are accurate enough. But..... From the eight I have in use, Three stopped working already (Within 1 year, the display remains black)

In case one of our RCD's fails to open after pressing the test button, I replace them. But I never do the tests @bluejets is suggesting now. And I think it is unlikely people will do. But bluejets tells now I am stupid, to take pictures wearing my Flipflops. I requested manufacter from the pump to replace it with a four core cable, from 20 meters, without a joint. And I feel it as strange you can not buy. All pumps have a joint in the cable..... Peter.

In some occasions you are able to see small hard body parts, even when they are not protruding. Further unfortunately no experience.

With a new installation I can imagine all should be checked with correct equipment (Will it be done in Thailand?) This pump is here over 15 years. It has been connected, and no issues. I test frequent all our RCD's. Do you think there is any person in the world who checks the RCD's on the 0 and 180 degrees, and check at what leakage current they open? You start to do this after a family member died.... What you say is probably correct. But not practical. Peter.

"The safety flip-flops" are mine. I did not work at all on the pump. I just took the pictures.

So nice.... I own an "Ulefone 18T" It has a build in thermal camera. (Flir) It is easy to see where my dog is. Even in the complete dark. When back in my homecountry it is easy to see if the footvalve from a radiater is adjusted correct. In Thailand it is easy to check the water level from our water tanks. So many uses.... I am very happy with it!

As requested

Update: The pump is about 18 years old. It runs about three times a day for about 1,5 hour to fill our water tower. I installed it myself. It is a three fase pump, so it has a running capacitor. The cable is four core. One ground, and three fase wires. Today we hired an elctrician (a real one, Somchai was not available) One of the fase cables had a shortcut to the housing from the pump. I was shocked to see when he removed the cable to extend the cable from the pump, the cable to the pump is just three core. The ground cable just stops at the joint!! So we decided to buy a new one. I am very surprised you can not buy these pumps with an cable from 40, or 60 meters. They all come with two to three meter cable. You have to join a cable. This joint is (anyway in our case) often submersed. I am planning to send the old one back to the supplier, (Jacuzzi) and request them to repair this pump and mount a cable (grounded!!) from 40 meters without a joint. Then we have a spare pump. So far... Peter.

Thanks Crossy, I will lift the pump this weekend. My guess is when it is a "weepy" cable seal I should not feel a tingle, because the pump itself is grounded. If I remember well the cable has somewhere a joint in it. The pomp itself has a rectangular rubber cable from around 8 meters length. And somewhere it changes in a round cable. We bought it like this. But probably I remember wrong. We will see this weekend. Thanks again for replying.

Thanks for reply, The suspension wire, is that the cable on what the pump is hanging? No that is not connected to the ground rod. Peter.

Hi, Where should I start to look? We have our own well. About 60 meters deep. The pump is hanging on about 50 meters depth. It is hanging on a stainless steel wire. De pump is grounded, with its own local ground rod. De pump is powered to its own ELCB Nominal current from the pump is 10A. I noticed several times that the connection to the the floater switch sometimes makes a "humming" sound. I stripped the wires again, and renewed the "Waco" connectors. Sometimes (also strange, why sometimes?) the sound is back. The floater operates a contacter, and the contacter operates the pump. Also recently, sometimes the ELCB is off. I did not pay much attention to this, I justed switched it on again. When I use the test button on the ELCB it works. Recently, the pump was running, and I touched the stainless steel wire on what the pump is hanging. I got a really bad tingle. I know that the tingle you receive is usal not fatal when the ELCB remains on, but, for sure something is wrong. I am planning to lift the pump this weekend. I think it is unlikely the cable is damaged, on the other hand, is it likely the pump itself is fault? Suggestions are welcome! Peter.

OK, sounds reasonable! Thanks!

When I understand the manual correct they say remove it, and place it back the other way around. But why should you want to protect a LED tube from entering current?

It looks a bit like the things to protect a battery operated device to switch on during transport. VID_20240610_090741.mp4

Hi, I bought two Lamptan LED tubes in a IP 66(?) enclosure. The tubes are equipped with a "LYN-Guard". I do not understand the Google translation. All information I find about it is only in Thai, and my wife can also not help with translating. What is the meaning from this thing, and more important, what do I need to do with it? Peter.

You are the same guy who as (according a post many years ago) not have any problems to ask on this forum information what is a good way to poison dogs?? I think you should be banned life time for keeping dogs.....

You are the same guy who as (according a post many years ago) not have any problems to ask on this forum information what is a good way to poison dogs?? I think you should be banned life time for keeping dogs.....

First of all, (and after that check the other requirements): Have the dog chipped, make sure the veterinarian who places the chip makes a certificate that he placed the chip. (AFTER placing the chip have the dog vaccinated against Rabiës) even when the current vaccination is still valid. Then have a blood sample tested for a Rabiës titer test. These first three steps are time consuming (at least three months) so when started this you have time to check for the other things you need to do. Good luck. Peter.

Many, many years ago you told me that it is normal an inverter does not open a RCD, you explained with a story from your teacher, who touched (if I remember correct) a three phase power supply, connect through a separation transformer. It is really many years back, but that made me still thinking it is normal my inverter does not let the RCD's trip..... Regards.

All cables are "in the air"

I wrote: "the tripping circuit only feeds the fish pond" There are more things in the pond. Like type floater switch (it is from the kind with two floating "things" When two are submersed the switch switches, and when two are free from the water the switch switches. The switch itself is above the water. When I disconnect all, so this switch, the pump, and an "Atomizer" the RCD still opens.

Even when the pump is unplugged the RCD trips. The position from the floating switch does not matter. Last night heavy rain the whole night. The thing is still on... But can you explain that when it trips, even very short running of my inverter can solve this for something like 24 hour? Thanks, and regards!

@itsa Thank you, and I hope you can solve your problem fast! Maybe next time start your own topic?? Kind regards.