Polarizing
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Posts posted by Polarizing
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6 hours ago, Crossy said:
did you try adding a conventional lamp to the circuit?
I dont have a conventional lamp at my disposal and don't really see it as a solution, more like a work around.
Is it possible to connect the spotlights in parallel instead of in series with a higher capacity transformer? or is the only parallel option; seperate transformers?
the spotlights are spread in a 10m2 surface.edit: so if I want to test it, whats the cheapest way to do it? buy a TE10?
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17 minutes ago, Crossy said:
The TE-10A from my link should do the trick then, replace the existing drivers.
Some thoughts and observations:
- the current dim adaptor for the spotlight is rated as output 18-23v, does that mean they require 24v output transformers?
there is no information on the spotlight itself
- so the triac adaptor I bought for my led strip is 12v, shall I try to connect it with the 24v spotlight to see how it behaves? Or will it explode immediately? Or are the observations made not conclusive of how it will behave with the TE10A?
- triac aliexpress adaptors are way better in providing a constant current than the "idontknowhowtocall" aliexpress adaptors that come with the spotlight itself? What is the technology behind it?
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https://th.aliexpress.com/item/32935106621.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dAlPfOL
7 minutes ago, Crossy said:What voltage/current are the downlights themselves? You may be able to find a suitable box with the same technology.
Currently using the 7W version
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2 minutes ago, Crossy said:
Does it work correctly with the mains dimmer?
yes, it seems very stable and no flickering whatsoever. However, now I get sleepness nights about my led downlights, why arent those that stable? Cant I use a triac adaptor for them as wel to solve the ocassional flickering?
the downlights i curent use are these:
https://th.aliexpress.com/item/32919221101.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.14661a7fax2QLM&algo_pvid=7803f890-0d96-4b36-9e22-70679ee20f08&algo_expid=7803f890-0d96-4b36-9e22-70679ee20f08-5&btsid=0ab6f82115966995950477289e2d18&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
or is this a whole different technology? -
fixed, first i had the wires from the dc side in the wrong socket, then i had them reversed in the right socket. Took my multimeter out to see whats up and corrected the wiring! Thanks
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15 minutes ago, maxpower said:
Not my idea of the best solution but it could simplify an installation.
So confused now, what should I do? the Dim0-10v is an input???!?!
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this dimmable driver has 4 slots on the dc side compared to my led strip which was connected via 2 wires, what is the best way to convert a two wire led strip to a 4 wire one?I currently have philips 6w led strips
edit: or should i just buy 6 holed wago's and make it 4 in 2 out? If i correctly understand how the dim driver works, this should work right?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10000036267639.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7a874c4dCR4aDA -
9 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:
2.5mm is way overkill for the job and not very flexible. If your strip doesn’t have any pigtails on it now none of those will accept 2.5mm. You need a couple of pieces of thin multi core between the strip and your supply cable. But if your going to have to buy something anyway just get enough to go all the way. 0.5mm or 0.25mm will be easily big enough and much easier to deal with than the 2.5mm
Thanks, which connector do you recommend to go with it?
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27 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:
What is the DC voltage and watt rating for the LED strip?
12v 6W
17 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:There is no such thing as AC wire
Lets say I want to use 2.5 sq mm, since I have that available. How do I connect that to the led strip? I saw connectors like the link below, will those fit? Which size do I need?
https://www.lazada.co.th/products/5pcs-2pin-3pin-4pin-5pin-6pin-led-strip-connector-for-rgb-rgbw-rgbww-3528-5050-led-strip-light-wire-connection-terminal-splice5-2pin-3pin-4pin-5pin-6pin-rgb-rgb-w-rgbww-3528-5050-led-strip-s-plice-i892410785-s1795484778.html?
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I am in a situation where I want to hide the AC DC adaptor and I need the DC wire to be about 1,5 meters long which will ultimately lead to my led strip. I know it's better to extend on the AC side but im not able to hide the adaptor then. What is the best wire to extend DC so the voltage drop is as small as possible? The thicker the better? Won't I be better of just using AC wire then?
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12 hours ago, Crossy said:
You may score by replacing one of the lamps with a conventional incandescent.
what would be the reason for this? ????
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I got a koogeek two gang dimmer connected to 6 led downlights from aliexpress. On full brightness it might shake a little bit sometimes, as if it goes from 60hz to 30hz. On low brightness, this effect is way more often and sometimes(once every 20 minutes orso?) it just goes off 1 second and on again. Could it be the wiring?
I got 7W dimmable led downlights from this link https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32935106621.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dR4EvNV
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went there today and no succes, i had med cert from clinic, it needs to be from hospital.
Also 90 day reports and Tr visa extensions are now (temporary?) done at the opposite of muang thong united fc
second and third floor. -
5 minutes ago, ubonjoe said:
If you have a Bangkok address you have to apply at Chaeng Wattana immigration.
Thanks! Are there by any chance reports for medical extensions out here you know of?
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Hello TV
I am located in BKK onnut under tourist visa visa amnesty, I want to try to extend my visa for medical reasons. Can I go to the immigration office of samut prakan, or do I HAVE to go to chaeng watthana because I am registered in bangkok?
The location of the one at samut prakan looks way more convenient. -
So anywhere around on nut where I can get this medical certificate? Just called one clinic and she doesn't really understand and i have to confirm with the doctor for a 500b fee..??
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5 hours ago, digger70 said:
Why should that be Dangerous if you only use water /Gas water heater.
Maybe if one uses an electrical water heater there maybe a slight chance that one could be charged up if the Lightening hit ones Power line coming in the house. ⚡
I didn't do extensive proper research but if you google "shower thunderstorm dangerous" you can read about it. It goes through the plumbing?
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On 8/27/2020 at 6:06 PM, digger70 said:
Even normal tap water doesn't conduct . it only conduct when you put salt in it . we done all these tricks at Tech School learning to be a electrician.
So taking a shower during a thunderstorm is not dangerous? Its a myth?
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1 hour ago, xtrnuno41 said:
Your insulation sucks, moist air is getting in (in your insulation), condense on the pipes and then you have dripping water.
Metal cases which have power inside should always be grounded. Like washing machines, fridge but also a metal light.
If there is a chance you can touch it, it should be grounded. Of course the ground should be working properly and fitted right.
Sure love the way they connected your wiring . No connection box for the wiring?!
Not long ago, there was a boy in Thailand, who died touching the "internet box" from the school, just newly built. Metal box with NO GROUND.
If it had, the boy would probably still be alive. If it had ground, then it wasnt working, too easy thinking about grounding, safety.
If they didnt had ground, then why didnt they use a plastic box. Ok Thailand.
man! the other day i checked the wiring and it is so badly wired, the sad thing is I don't know how to access the wires. Red to blue, blue to green... 2.5 to 1.5mm, the bigger problem is that i dont believe any thai AC "engineer" could ever fix this for me. But when i found a way to access the wiring ill put them in a box with new connections!
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On 8/22/2020 at 2:25 PM, Crossy said:
Assuming the supply goes to the indoor unit, yes. It's not really good practice, but it's not going to be a hazard.
Make sure you don't connect to the inter-unit wiring or your outlet will go on and off with the compressor.
How can I test for which wires are coming from the supply?
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16 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:
I'm talking about gas in a air-con unit, have you ever dismantled one ?? I have and there is liquid formed in whatever amount from the gas when released.
I haven't but to the point it can cause water damage? So are you saying I should test if my tubes are not gas leaks in liquid form? To me, highly unlikely from what I have read but I can make tests if you give me the steps. Also you didn't answer me which refrigerant you were dismantling.
@Oldiewhat do you think?-
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5 minutes ago, Dumbastheycome said:
To be honest your pictures do not really provide much to my visual comprehension except for the one which shows a fingers peeling open and exposing the copper tubing and the condensation.
The conventional criteria for the installing the tubing is that it should always totally be in a downward position from the internal unit to the compressor. Theoretically it is also wrapped and taped over the entire length which would presume any water from condensation that occurs inside that would travel downward and outward. If there are gaps then it has not been installed well.
For sure any wiring should be bundled and placed away from wet areas, earthed or not.
It occurs to me to ask now if this is a split unit or a one piece "in wall" unit?
split, my ac is installed in a closet, I painted everything nearby black so it doesn't bother me from an interior design perspective and thats why its hard to see; its hanging on a front panel with a hole in it. the second and third picture are all pictures taken inside that hole. If you analyse the first picture, i think u might get a clue. wiring will be fixed soon with an extra outlet. Anyways I understand what i gotta do, get the wiring done and insulate.
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2 minutes ago, Dumbastheycome said:
Ah ! So the "leak" in reality is an annoying persistent drip where it is exposed to the room before exiting via wall ?
In that case yes, insulation should help reduce/eliminate that problem.
In the current wet season humidity can be a problem.
I find the word 'exit' quite tricky in this situation, as I don't know which way the substance inside is going. It is indeed a persistent drip (also feel moist to the touch) from my pipes to where my wiring is behind the wall where my ac is mounted on (see first pic), you can access it via that rabbit hole XD. Anyone know if I can just buy that at homepro? Polyethylene foam is the best right?
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3 minutes ago, Dumbastheycome said:
To my read it is a bit confusing as to which /what s your main concern?
The electrical earth wire "should" be connected but has no relevance to liquid leaks.
If refridgerant was leaking to a degree where it was observable it would be depleted already.
How are you certain you have unblocked the drain tube? And/are you sure you have not dislodged the piping in a way that restricts the condensation from flowing to the drain tube?
Try a M'gyver approach and put some water down the outlet pipe while you suck it out from the exit end ( if you have a wet and dry vacuam cleaner)( multiversal thingy) and see if it does not suck out an obstinant small frog or a freakin massive bug that has been doing a Jackie Chan man-oover in there !
Alternatively carefully pour some toilet cleaner down the drain tube. I once found that was the fastest way to move a very large toad from inside a shower drain. Sounds cruel but I did rinse him off in a bucket with baking soda and water once he exited. He /she? plopped off after with tender feet but fit enough to a different location.
because after i cleansed the drain pan and sucked the pipe with my cheap vacuum it isn't leaking from the front anymore, but near the pipes. your statement about leaking refrigerant is asfaik true so not a concern. It is probably just condensation, so insulation probably will solve the issue
Extending DC wire to led strip
in The Electrical Forum
Posted
interesting, any idea whats the cheapest dimmable conventional lamp? Honestly, I even know less about conventional lamps, I can probably borrow the e27 fitting from the bathroom.