Polarizing

23 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Your wrong.

Your AC unit can also leak refrigerant, the liquid used to cool your home's air, but it's not as common. Refrigerant can become dangerous if the leaking liquid evaporates and becomes a gas. ... If your air conditioner leaks water, you are safe – but you should still call for AC repair.

What determines if it leaks in gas form or liquid form? You are talking about freon r22 right?

4 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Make sure you don't connect to the inter-unit wiring or your outlet will go on and off with the compressor.

Ah you mean the wiring is connected to the outside unit, which is why I see two hots two neutrals two grounds here.. right?

one more thing, can I make an outlet next to my ac from the wiring there? or is it not advisable?

1 hour ago, BritManToo said:

 

Presumably the OP switched the fuse off at the main house fuse box before putting his hands in it.

 

yes, shall i replace the connections with wago? yesss

1 hour ago, lopburi3 said:

AC normally makes water as pipes are colder than air so condensation forms and drips into the drain pan.  If the pipe from drain pan to outside becomes blocked then water will spill into room.  That is likely what has happened and best to have worker clean whole AC unit at same time as fixing pipe blockage.  If you try to do with air hose could be a mess.

I don't think my pipes are blocked since I cleaned the whole drain pan and cleaned the drain pipe. 

1 hour ago, Oldie said:

You need working insulation around these pipes. In respect of a connection to the ground. It should be but I have never seen here an aircon in Thailand that was connected. 

What is the best way to insulate? Its kinda in a awkward spot, AC is hanging in front of a wall with a hole to access the pipes, I can't put two arms in there at the same time and it's hard to see (little to no light)

Hi TV,

A few days ago my AC was leaking from the drain pan, I removed that and cleaned that out, also cleaned the rest of the AC.
However, upon further investigation, there are some pipes that remain leaking, first I thought it might come from the drain pan, but they are really slightly leaking. Can you identify what those pipes are and help me out of it?
Is it possible to DIY this? If it's freon, woudn't I be death by now? hahaha.. 

Also the ground is not connected... ???? Does this has any reason or is this just plain dangerous?

12 minutes ago, DrDave said:

@Polarizing To further complicate matters, your red brick partition wall may have had a cement beam poured about midway between the floor and ceiling.  I just looked through some construction photos of a small house we built some years ago, and the builders poured beams around 1.5m up from the floor on red brick interior walls. Different walls had beams of different height, and a couple of narrow walls on either side of a doorway had no beams at all. There's really no way of knowing what you have without removing a vertical strip of render from floor to ceiling.

wow interesting! ????

4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

It is clear that you do not know enough to do a safe job or oversee workers doing one.
 

There are many good building threads showing the construction of houses, there are multi story buildings half built that show construction.

I am just trying to learn more about my building. I don't have any plans yet, just wondering what if... Can you direct me to one of those good building threads?

So my building is very similar to the picture below... I can't see the beams, can anyone point me out where the beams are?

@DrDave@sometimewoodworker i see i see, so from my understanding of this construction, the beams are supported by the columns so the chance is high that the beams are in line with the columns, is that right? the beams are always made out of concrete? Does it connect from column to column (like a big lintel).

If i cutout the render to my suspended ceiling and there are still red bricks, i destroy my ceiling and go higher and there are still red bricks. Then it's possible that that partitionwall does not have a beam at all, right? If I see a change of structure/material, i should becareful not to damage the beam and remove the bricks right under it.

5 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Easy to do, just use a wood saw, start high but not at the top, first  get the render off the wall,  the wood saw will cut AAC but not the concrete beams.

Uhm, not the most experienced woodmaker here but I don't think my wood saw will cut out any render, Are you talking about a manual one? Really?! O__O

edit: btw I saw some red bricks in this wall while I was working on a socket.

20 hours ago, DrDave said:

 Even when using AAC block, the manufacturer has specified the maximum wall height before a beam must be poured.

Condo here, so even if I were to remove a partition wall from the top, I need to becareful not to damage the beam? I have no idea since I have never seen a beam im my condo haha

Hi TV, not really a DIY thingy but I want to educate myself and read more on the 'post and beam' structure that according to some of you most condos in thailand are made out of.
So did some searching on google and came across this website, http://www.understandconstruction.com/concrete-frame-structures.html 

- firstly is that the post and beam as we know it in thailand? So columns and posts are synonyms?
- Walls are never load bearing if its not connected to the foundation. Eg) i got a parking area at the first floor, I can see exactly which wall is connected to the foundation (under the ground) and which are not. If there is no wall on the parking lot floor, the wall on that same spot on a higher floor is never a load bearing wall. This is also true for exterior walls, although we have to take into account wind load and earthquake load in case we want to do something with that wall (liike shower niches).
- Is it possible that the beams are hidden? I have been looking around my building a few days ago and haven't found any beams.
- If walls are not load bearing, why would thai builders more often than not opt for a solid brick wall with plaster as a partition wall rather than a drywall lightweight partition?

Thanks a lot for taking the time to read!

1 hour ago, PatOngo said:

Get a REAL electrician!

very useful, thanks. Maybe you can try to elaborate in the future.

1 minute ago, PatOngo said:

Get an electrician!

For what? to mess up my wiring, so I have to guess what he did and solve the problem?

2 minutes ago, DrTuner said:

Fill with sand, plug ends and use the gas stove. I have a heatgun but that's how I'd do it in a pinch. PVC doesn't need a lot of heat, you'll feel it give. And use very dry sand of course unless you want to create an explosion.

i did it with water before, just dont like the mess it creates hahaha, and i dont have a gas stove either.

7 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

The plastic box on the left wouldn't hurt the wiring but the metal box on the right can.

Officially the wiring should be protected with a grommet in the hole of the box, but a cable gland or a conduit hose connector can do the same.

 

Grommet:

 

For DIY like this, you can , unorthodoxially, use something else wrapped around the wiring.

I always kept some stripped off insulation sheets from a bigger cable. (those grey VMVK cables) in the  bitsbox here.

And I remember even used a piece of a garden hose in narrow situation once when I didn't had a flexible electrical hose at hand at request to fix something in short time while visiting family. ????

As long the metal doesn't penetrate the wiring insulation.

 

Looking at the picture, try to use a 90' tube connector instead of the one you use now.

 

 

I am using a flex hose for these situations, and have always a roll in stock.

 

 

Thanks, that flexhose is def a great idea as im too lazy to bend the tube using heat (don't have a heatgun and hairdryers was not enough). As for the grommet, I checked the metal back box and it isn't that sharp. I will take that risk or jam some electrical tape around it. I also checked the wiring with my other koogeek smart dimmer and it works. 1 Hot, L1, L2 and a Neutral, the Neutral is a 1.5, i think it doesnt matter right? since it is only used to slightly power the dimmer so it stays connected.

59 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

No, as stated above, they are not for the led strips (12 volt) but they are for led downlights.

The leds inside those armature are chained in series to work on higher voltages.

 

 

https://th.aliexpress.com/item/10000036267639.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21961feepwNAJR&algo_pvid=6c0ff09e-27a7-4e9b-8e41-8e002f006bb5&algo_expid=6c0ff09e-27a7-4e9b-8e41-8e002f006bb5-1&btsid=0ab6d70515967102087384410e1237&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

This should work right? and the W on the led driver means: for every ledstrip I should take the sum of the wattage and add them to eachother and that number should not exceed that of the led driver?

Thanks

27 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

That Koogeek dimmer works on 230 volt (195-260 range) and is meant for drive 230 volt lights (those without adapters.)

There exist 230 volt led strips, mostly one color.

 

For drive 12 volts led strips you should look/think:

* dimmer module for wall , like the koogeek, that inputs and outputs 12 volt.  No need for a phone, but some models can be controlled by wifi.

* led dimmer which works on wifi/bluetooth , then you need a phone.

* led dimmer which works on infrared or radiowave,  these come with remote controller.

 

 

EDIT:

 

You can keep using the Koogeek dimmer when you replace the Philips Transformer/Adapter for a Dimmable Led Driver.

 

 

so coming back to my first post, if I buy that dimmable led driver from aliexpress it should work?

5 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

I was thinking about the classic (trailing/leading edge cut) dimmers but this (the Koogeek) is a dimmer made for incandescent lights and will work with dimmable led lights (that are ledbulbs/T lights).

 

For ledstrips, which are fed at lower voltages you need a led dimmer dedicated for that task, just like the one from Philips in the shopee ad.

They get the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) at the right voltage and current.

 

When you feed PWM to a transformer(less) adapter it will act different.

Sorry didnt get the message completely. You said I need the philips transformer like the one from the ad, but i got that hooked up already with my koogeek and its flickering at lower dim levels. So I should feed it with a PWM?

Hi TV!

I have a koogeek dimmer switch connected to philips led strips (https://shopee.co.th/Philips-LED-Strip-31059-ไฟเส้น-พร้อมหม้อแปลง-LED-18W-5M-3000K-i.6941174.2332334391 ), with an adaptor in between. Whenever I dim the ledstrip with the koogeek, the ledstrip flickers. 
I will be installing new ledstrips connected to another koogeek dimmer. and I hope to buy something that is capable of dimming without flickering. What is the best way to go?
Is buying the same led strip and connecting it to a cheap transformer the best solution? (maybe something like this? https://th.aliexpress.com/item/32919221101.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.14661a7fax2QLM&algo_pvid=7803f890-0d96-4b36-9e22-70679ee20f08&algo_expid=7803f890-0d96-4b36-9e22-70679ee20f08-5&btsid=0ab6f82115966995950477289e2d18&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_)

Thanks!

Do I need a 3 holed wago in order to control 2 ledstrips at different locations ????

A small update, also to check if I did everything correct.
I bought the authentic wago's to support their business!
hmm the small pipe between junction box and backbox is loose,shall I just remove it and let the wires loose there or is it okay as it is?
currently waiting for a smart dimmer and the backbox for it.
By the way I had problems with opening up the holes on the junction box, i tried to slam it with a flat screwdriver and hammer but it didn't break open, so I just cut it open and its not neat at all. I also dont have the pvc pipe connectors for it. I think those are just minor and can be neglected. Please correct me if anything is wrong! Thanks
 

18 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

You want them there?

Consider taking out or modify that square and put in a long wall mount box.
I have bought mine on Shopee at 'pjrelectric' ,

The box : click here

The plate: click here

 

This post really inspire me, the amount of detail u put in someone else's work without reward is insane. Are you around onnut, Ill buy you dinner hahah!
Also thanks so much for sharing that junction box and link. Whats your background? Your drawings are so clear and detailed! how did you get to where you are now and is this just a hobby for you (helping out electric rookies ;D, saving peoples life etc)?

@DrTuner Thanks for your opinion, I was planning  to do a smart switch at the top and there 5cm under the sockets. I want to maximize the space so no table within hand reach, as minimal as possible. We tend to still charge our phones with cables, otherwise I might consider digging a bit of wall and put a wireless charger underneath the horizontal part in the alcove and eliminating the sockets... just a future thought tho, since I dont really chase mobile phones... still on iphone 7 here hahaha
 

4 minutes ago, ding said:

As an electrical inspector, I'm speechless. I sincerely would not know where to begin in trying to be of help.

In the USA, every splice must happen in a listed box and every box must be accessible with a cover.

But I know... TIT.

Mind to share some knowledge? So a listed box is a junction box right?
What else? you are free to scatter random thoughts XD

2 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

 

Or where is the 8 shaped hole in the wood beam?

 

Will the bed be positioned at that location? Consider keeping one of the outlets below, you can switch that outlet by adding one more switch with the other two (you can have 3 in a row).

And the setup for the led strip at that outlet below or the bed.

Many led strips are powered by a adapter, but there do exist led strips working on 220v.  Either way it is useful to have a power outlet near where you will mount the led strip.

Colored ledstrips has 4 or 5 (with warm white included) wires. DC distance over wire is best kept short.

 

i am working on everything as i talk and think, so the 8 hole wasnt in the picture yet and it turned out to be a wooden square where I will just mount it on a sheet of thin plywood

and I will not widen the alcove, i was so happy i was finished as it makes a lot of dust and noise, also I am not really the most prefered one by my juristic, if you want to read up on that (there's a thread about that if you are interested, called where to buy shower niche/lintel).

Actually, I want to replace the light switch with a smart switch, probably by koogeek (koogeek sucks hard, but it works and is much cheaper than lightwave RF).
it has only a two way switch. But now I think of it, it might be cool to control the led strips seperately.... hmmmmz hahah Anyways I really want it to be smart via siri, any ideas?

edit: as you can see the space is really tight there, do i really need ajunction box? 

38 minutes ago, Crossy said:

1.5 should be on no more than a 16A breaker, but there's no issue with running an outlet that's not powering your welder or the like.

 

For your LEDs I would provide an outlet into which you can plug the adaptor (put the outlet on a switch if you wish). Plenty of kits around that don't need soldering / wiring skills.

 

Beware, lighting under the bed will disturb the monster and he may come out at night and attack!!

 

so putting it on the same switch is not possible? I dont want to have so many switches