jojothai

20 hours ago, 4MyEgo said:

If they are fleas, they are not the type we used to have back home, i.e. you knew when a flea bit you, this is like a small itch on either side of my arms and on my chest, even as I type this, not annoying in the slightest, but one has to pay attention to it to notice it.

It does sound like prickly heat.
If it was fleas you would be feeling it most on the legs, that's where they hop on most.
Small baby fleas are not black until they feed enough, and are very hard to see.
And as you said, you should easily identify if fleas are biting you.

Thanks Joe for all the help to so many people.
RIP

Those who complain about 200 baht may be lucky, if they can go to CW.
FYI, I had to go to One stop as my visa is done there.
They do not do post. It cost 500 Baht last Friday. No receipt.
But quick application at separate window and they do the certificate for you in under an hour.
So, thankfully it was relatively painless.

On 2/7/2023 at 8:09 PM, jojothai said:

I just realised that i need to know what size of wire should be used from N To E.

Looks 2.5 sqmm.

Is that enough?!

I have a 15 - 45 amp board.

I think the earth wire to ground is 4 sqmm. Have to check but then should the E to N  be the same size 4 sqmm.

Also noticed that the wire from incoming main cable N to the N bar is 6 sqmm.

If i use up to 40 amps, is it big enough. 

Does it need 10 sqmm?

Thanks for your advice.

FYI, The incoming wire from earth lead was 4mmsq. From checking codes i believe that is the minimum i should have.

Then i have changed the E to N wire to the same 4mmsq.

For the neutral main connection with 45 amp board, all the code advice i see indicates that it should be 8mm sq.

I have therefore changed the 6mm wire to 10mmsq which is the next size i can get above 6mm.

I have completed the changes today when i was changing the breaker sizes to address the problems i see in the initial installation.

I spoke to somebody electrical i know and they agreed what i was doing as ok.

If you may be experienced to advise any different then i would be pleased to hear any other advice thanks.

15 hours ago, Crossy said:

Yes, a N-E bond in the distribution board / consumer unit is correct.

 

It confuses many but in reality, many other countries do the same. In Aus and the US the links are visible, in the UK the link is in the service head and not accessible.

 

The diagram below came from this PEA document (my translations) Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf

 

Note the routing of the incoming neutral via the ground bar, this is the Thai implementation of MEN (Multiple earthed Neutral). This connection must be before any RCD/RCBO devices or it will cause them to trip constantly.

 

If you require an electrical inspection this is how the inspector expects it to be done.

 

Have you included RCD or RCBO devices in your revised system?

 

 

Wikipedia has a good description of the various earthing systems 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system 

Thailand is generally TNC-S with MEN.

 

 

I just realised that i need to know what size of wire should be used from N To E.

Looks 2.5 sqmm.

Is that enough?!

I have a 15 - 45 amp board.

I think the earth wire to ground is 4 sqmm. Have to check but then should the E to N  be the same size 4 sqmm.

Also noticed that the wire from incoming main cable N to the N bar is 6 sqmm.

If i use up to 40 amps, is it big enough. 

Does it need 10 sqmm?

Thanks for your advice.

Thanks crossy,

Comments much appreciated.

I have been busy all day on some formal work tasks. Just heading back home.

Will look at this more tomorrow morning.

I have moved into a house in Hua Hin last year and had some problems with the electrics.

House was built over 10 years ago. 

The board was tripping out all electrics for a short time periodically.

I had solar installed last December and have had to figure out all the wiring because at the time there were a number of issues identified.

I think its been well stated that the electrical systems installations here can be a problem.

As a reminder to people, what I found shows that they do anything they want with no respect for standards or safety.

Use any color of cable and bits of wire they have, making multiple joins changing color and sometime size.

All kitchen on one circuit 32 amp breaker, hob oven and water heater included, Oven and hob are 6.4 + 2.6 KW (although unlikely to use all at once, we rarely use more than a few KW)

No separate breakers. Wire size 2.5sqmm from roof, 4sqmm cable connected to 2.5 at back of units looks better but most should be at least 6mmsq.
Earth looks ok in kitchen but too small (1.5 sqmm) and then I found not connected in roof.

Water heater 6KW was on wiring 2.5 sqmm and one wire dropped to 1.5 sqmm. No separate breaker. Earth appears to be connected ok at 1.5sqmm.

When used with other appliances occasionally it was tripping the whole system for a short time when initially switched on. The mains is 15/45 amp.

I can see the sharp surge on my solar app.

Air conditioners not earthed. Earth wire looks ok to two units but earth not connected in roof. Then also, no earth to outside compressor.
Two AC's connected together onto 32 A breaker without individual breakers. 

Lots more lesser problems, but i think the above illustrates how bad some important things can be.

I am nearly complete on adding the wiring and breakers.

Work has been necessary on the main board and that's where I note my initial topic for any advice / comment please
In the main board there is a direct wire connection from the earth strip to the neutral strip.

I checked online and it seems to be correct. As follows:

Should I be concerned about bonding the Neutral-to-Ground Bond in the main panel?

Neutral-to-ground bond is needed to properly operate the circuit breakers.  Over Current Protection Devices (OCPD) such as circuit breakers and fuses actually require a short and intense INCREASE in electrical current (a short) in order to detect the fault and cut the circuit off.    Without a sharp and drastic increase in electrical flow, a fault could go on without triggering a circuit breaker to stop the flow.  This actually occurs quite often and can be measured easily by checking the amount of current flowing on your ground conductor.  It should be less than 1-amp in most cases.  If the current flowing on a grounded conductor is higher than an amp, and you are not in a high-voltage (600V+) environment, it typically indicates an erroneous neutral-to-ground bond somewhere in the system.

I therefore assume it is ok for the connection here in Thailand, unless I get advice to the contrary.

Thanks in advance for any advice. It may also be useful for others to know.

I travel the route frequently and the biggest regular problem going into bangkok is the traffic at the junction for the ring road, not the roadworks.

For some reason the ring road no 9. slows traffic back for several km.

Generally due to drivers staying in the outer lane until the last minute and slowing everything behind.

The roadworks have some blips but are generally well managed.

The worst time to travel in that section after midday is rush hour about 4pm to 6pm. It normally adds about 1 hour. But can be more when there is bad weather

Luxury minibus i use from hua hin to suvarnabhumi is generally 3.5 hours if leaving hua hin 12.00 or 16.00.

Leaving at 14.00 takes 4.5 hours.

I dont travel into bkk in the morning, but guess the morning rush hour will be as bad as late afternoon.

4 hours ago, jacko45k said:

Asinine really, there should be some relaxation during the World Cup.... one of life's great pleasures, watching football with a beer and a bit of food!

Pathetic spoilsports.

They obviously picked the crackdown because they knew there would be people out watching the football.

Easy targets for fund raising.

16 hours ago, NevNic said:

Do you know if vans or buses go from the Clock Tower to Pranburi? And how about Pak Nam Pran?

 

There is a minibus goes through Hua hin to Pranburi where you should be able to get transport to the coastal district of Pak Nam Pran. 

In Hua hin the minibus stops at the clock tower and I understand also at Market Village.
The minibus terminates in Pranburi near the main intersection on Petkasem road.
The one after the lotus junction going south.

I would expect that main intersection will have local transport to Pak Nam Pran but I do not know any details.
Probably a better place than Lotus's.

if you are in hua hin,

I suggest you go to the clock tower and check the best timing with the guy there to  buy ticket in advance.

Minivans can be full sometimes.

Also, from what i know already, there are very few or no buses. 

Unless you find with tour operators.

There are big public transport buses and minibuses go from bangkok to prachuap use the by pass.

But very few now compared to before covid.

The minibus that i know goes throigh hua hin only goes to pranburi.

57 sqm apartment, end unit on 21st floor in Monterey Place Condominium for rent.
5 minute walk to Blue Line MRT at Queen Sirikit. 
1.5 km to Sukhumvit, short motorbike taxi ride. 1 km to Medpark hospital

https://goo.gl/maps/NiY6iqyAUzpMK52SA

Balcony facing North with very good outlook to Sukhumvit and the Lake at Queen Sirikit.
Very well furnished. 
Living Room with TV 43.5 inch, Dining Table, Sofa bed and PC desk.
Modern Bathroom and well equipped Kitchen.

Rental Rate: 18,000 THB/month, including maintenance CAM fees. 
Not including Internet, Electricity and Water.
Rental contract is for 1 year, but flexible if you want to try it for three months first.

You can contact Joe
by phone: (+66) 081 7520824 (whatsapp available)
by email: [email protected]

Maybe positive if the police can get to any problem locations.

But depends how long in waiting.

Is this the biggest problem? Why farangs?

There appears to have been no comment in reference to Thai ladyboys, who are often the source of problems.
Do the Pattaya police have a policy how they react quickly to reports of such incidents, 

and demonstrate how they deal with some real problems that are frequently reported.. 

1 minute ago, treetops said:

 

The picture of the unit a couple of posts up shows the white wire is atually labelled "Antenna" if you look closely.

Yes, you are correct. the unit has a white wire antenna.

My mistake, I took the picture of the new unit quickly earlier to post. I had not checked all colors.
The instructions had not stated the color of the antenna. However the neutral is white.
The unit I already have and installed today the antenna was black.

1 minute ago, MAF666 said:

I have a number of smart fan switches that look identical to this. They work on RF or on WiFi via an app. The white is an aerial for the RF controller. White and black are 220v power. Blue runs the light switch.

Hi MAF666, thanks
As  understand it they are all very similar, if not identical.
On the diagrams I see the white is normally the common neutral (for fan and light).

And the aerial color is not specified, however mine are black.

1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

Yah, a photo of the switch and any diagrams will help.

 

The wiring diagram does not tell us anything related to problem of 100/110 v vs 220.
Both types of remote have the same instructions similar to what is on line.
Problem is that the new remote clearly states and is labelled use for 100-110 v.
I understand the Hz will not be a problem

The actual controller piece inscription is 50 Hz/ 60Hz.
FYI, see picture of the new controller and instructions.

Somebody with appropriate electrical knowledge should be able to confirm if using the 110-120 on a 220 v supply is a problem. Its only a remote controller, but maybe controlling the speed options is the problem because they may be misinterpreted because of the voltage difference.                                                               

1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

The red wire is connected to the symbol for a capacitor.  

 

Does the remote switch have separate selection for the fan versus the light?  If not, you will be stuck with turning both on/off at the same time.  Or, the remote for one and normal switch for the other.

The existing remote wall switch did not have control for the light, so it can only be on when the fan was on. I need to be able to switch the light on and off. Too difficult to add an extra wire and light switch. A new remote that has controls for both fan and light considered the easiest solution.
This morning I refitted one existing with the remote I had 220 v ac 60 Hz. Connected the extra red to live input matching the previous set up. Works ok. Good.

Now i have to decide if i use the newer 110 v remote control on the other fan.

I have two ceiling fans with lights and want to fit remote controls.
I bought one a while ago and will use it, suitable for AC 220V 50 Hz.
Needed another and bought from Lazada.
Opened packaging and looking at details it says rating ac 110 - 120v, 60 Hz.
I queried this with the seller saying its not suitable in Thailand.

They say it should be ok.
I don't know for sure and my main concerns are:
- Even if it works, is it potentially dangerous for fear of fire or other electrical problem
- Could it damage the fan (which is more expensive)
- Could it possibly cause tripping of breakers.

I have taken down the first fan and figured out the wiring and connections. It had a wall switch before. I have removed the parts for that. 
I find the fan unit had the two incoming live and neutral, but the fan unit has 4 wires not three as shown in remote installation.

There is the white common neutral, black fan live and blue light live, but then an extra wire red that has an electrical symbol.
I don't know what this is. See picture attached bottom right. symbol is on a tag attached to the wire.
Grateful if somebody can clarify.
I assume that I connect the normal three wires as per instructions for the remote control.

then also connect the red to the incoming live. That's how it was on the previous wiring.
 

10 hours ago, richard_smith237 said:

Qatar - Heat Index 63 deg C... (measurement is combination of Humidity and Temperature). 

 

Horrific conditions, hot enough to make me feel unwell after being outside for 10mins. 

Yes.
I always remember the wall of heat hitting you even in the evening when you get out of the aircon car returning home and have to park outside.
It was far hotter going on the roof of the new Doha airport in summer when we were constructing it.  No way that was tolerable, but the workers did their job in conditions that were extreme. 

12 hours ago, internationalism said:

With recovery you are fully covered for 90 days. 
around december for those there was antibody test from blood at airport for 3k and some 1h waiting for laboratory results. 
since then with omicron deluge they dont do antibodies. 
you can come to thailand still positive, on condition you have recovery issued minimum 14 days.

 

yes, its possible to have covid within this time (my thai nurse told me a new infection can happen within a month), probably with another variant. 
 

but the law doesnt take it into consideration. Especially not with omicron.
Some countries honour recovery certificates for longer, even up to a year (that is changing, lowering down). 
 

After booking hotel send them your recovery and ask to forward to their hospital. Insist on it during check in time, if they failed to send to hospital earlier. 

The extra test was only done if you had tested positive at the hotel and recently recovered.

From reports at the time, it was done by the hospital linked to the hotel, and not at the airport.

if the OP, has the issue, and checks with the hotel / hospital we may find out what happens now.

If the OP is infected, your post implies that after a pcr positive they can go out and about as normal, and infect others. 

That doesnot make sense to me.

Surely the responsible thing is to do any test that is available to confirm the potentially new infection or not. Or at least isolate until ATK tests are negative.

The rules being stated are only for entry and do not cover what happens if you test positive on arrival. Unfortunately what is being stated is not true from the rules in early January.
Whilst they may have changed, i doubt it.
People can get covid more than once and in less than three months.

The OP should have been advised that they need a specific blood test to confirm that the infection is not infectious and validate that its no problem. This was the situation in early January. 

From the information at the time, there were people who went to the hospital contracted with hotel for the PCR test and did the blood test and confirmed ok.

If you think that you get tested positive and just walk out free then be careful you are not on the wanted list. There has been enough searches headlined with Thailand looking for foreigners who checked out of the hotel after a positive PCR test.
Do not just ignore it, it may not go away. Speak to the hotel / hospital.

I agree with the others who say you have to start somewhere.
By all means see what reaction you get.
Some sellers may be desperate, but the current problem has been going on for nearly two years and most of those will have already reduced in line with the market. I think that getting 30% is most unlikely, if somebody does go that low be careful the house has no significant problems.

I suggest do not set your own sights on the 30% level you are suggesting.
Its not just a matter of thinking i want a discount. 
You need to consider the value of the house compared to others on the market
in your checks where you judge price, consider recent reductions made to sell, On some websites you can see the date of listing with the asking price. That could be important. See below.

IMHO If you think you are getting a good buy anyway compared to elsewhere then you are unlikely to get a large discount. The amount of homework checking prices can hdelp.
Yes, Try 30%,  but If i was the seller i would simply tell you go buy elsewhere unless you are prepared to offer close to market value.
Houses are selling. Agents should know the approximate market value very well.

FYI I just recently bought a villa in Hua hin. I managed to find that it was originally listed about 2 years ago at 6.5 million.
When i was looking just over six months ago it was at 5.5 million. I was looking at a budget of 5 million and took a lot of time looking and checking what was on the market. The house is fantastic compared to everything else I saw.
One of the agents said the buyer did not want to reduce any more and they considered it one of the best buys available at the price.  I doubted i would be able to get it.
When the house was reduced to 5 million late last year i straight away offered to buy at the price and have been able to complete.

People need to be aware that some flights from Europe now take longer to go around Russia and ukraine.
I know that Finnair is badly affected because they used to fly a big distance over russian airspace.

Last time i came at end of December I was given 3 days, not 72 hours.
I was past the 72 hours landing 3 days after my original pass date, but there was no problem.
All the paperwork and extensive checks at the time only took into account 3 days, not 72 hours.
I know that the details say 72 hours. Its potentially risky. TIT, you cannot be sure.
As a warning, Thai airways staff totally misinterpreted the 14 days for recovery from covid and insisted on 14 days after the recovery certificate ie 24 to 28 days. Idiots would not let me board, despite my protests that I had checked with bangkok head office and they said that I was ok.
Therefore best take no chances unless some others can confirm similar actual experience recently, and with your proposed airline.