Encid

Would it be possible to hang some plastic sheeting on the outside of the wall to prevent the rain water from wetting the outside wall surface? As the walls are so close a plastic sheet is unlikely to degrade due to sunlight.

You don't need to use sterile bottles... just buy some new 1.5L bottles of drinking water, empty the contents, and screw the caps back on straight away. 3 litres should suffice for testing. Testing for the coliform, E.coli test must be performed within 24 hours of sampling. (As advised by TestTech)

This might help... It's from the pinned topic at the top of this forum.

If you want to look online for ideas I can recommend HousePorn. It's not all about the paint colour, but the lighting as well... both ambient and artificial. Once you've settled on a particular colour and shade, use the TOA colo(u)r wheel to determine the RGB/CMYK figures so your local paint supplier can mix you up a batch. Also satin finishes are the most common interior paint finish because they have a velvety sheen and are easier to clean than flat (or matte) paints.

I will heed your advice thanks @Crossy

What do you think about this one... 538 baht at Thaiwatsadu?

Yours must be the old style halogen pool lights... yes, they do get hot. We used to have them but I replaced them with LED about a year ago when we drained the pool for re-grouting.

Are there any "plug'n play" or automatic multimeters available for electrically challenged dummies like me?

I will have a closer look at the wiring. I suspect that the 5 larger transformers are for the 5 submerged pool lights, and the smaller transformer is for the waterfall lighting.

OK, I was going to start a new topic on this subject but seeing you mentioned it... What would be a good digital multimeter to buy? I currently don't have one, and as we are going to be soon building a new house, along with lots of lighting and cameras (that I'd like to DIY), and a solar PV system (that I will probably outsource to a specialist like Mr.DIY), and other misc. electrical stuff I see the need for a multimeter. What would you recommend?

Will do. The old halogen lights really looked good, but after 15 years they are no longer waterproof and replacements are around 1,600 baht each. That's why I thought that using low-cost LED is cost-efficient solution, and also provide some colour and effects options.

There was a break in the storm so I dashed outside to photograph the transformers in the pool pump house. There are 5 underwater LED lights in the pool and there are 4 (currently halogen) lights on the waterfall. All the lights are controlled by a single on/off switch, as is the waterfall pump. The main pool circulating/filtration pump is controlled by a timer with a manual override. This is the transformer box: And this is the timer/pump control box:

And here is my light rig ready for testing... And here is the remote control unit... one for each light. Looks like quite an array of features and combinations...

Yeah... my in-laws are in the same boat. I think FIL is regretting donating so much of his rice farming land to us for use as fill... his rice is still underwater so machine harvesting is not possible.

I'd take a photo but it is hissing down rain at present with accompanying sound and light show!

I had just finished rigging this up with some spare 2 x 1.5 sq.mm cable I had and was about to test when the missus announced that she was going to the salon to get her hair and nails done... so the car is gone! <deleted>! I'll have to wait a few hours more...

Thanks for that suggestion... I didn't know that such an animal existed. I will get some for all of our external light bulbs (now LED).

That's a great idea Crossy... thanks! I didn't think of using the car. Yes I am pretty sure that the electricity source is suitably isolated and earthed, as it was done by a professional pool company and it also powers 2 x 1.5 HP pumps... one for circulating/filtering the pool water and the other for the waterfall. The existing lamps wiring was simply twisted together with the feed wires and then taped up with electrical tape... your know, they typical Thai leccy way. The joints have lasted 15 years so far, so I don't think there's a need for waterproof junction boxes for the new joints. I was planning to use electrical cable connectors like these, then seal them all up with 3M Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape, then another layer of standard black vinyl electrical tape... to be sure, to be sure. Thoughts?

All good suggestions and questions everyone... much appreciated. The existing 12V DC halogen lamps are fed by twin wire cables that come from a 240V AC/12V DC transformer inside the pump room. There is no third wire in the feed cables. The cables themselves are buried inside the concrete and tile waterfall structure, so running an additional earth wire for each lamp would be unsightly as there is no way they could be buried inside the structure. Yes... each lamp comes with it's own remote control unit. Apparently you can set them up for a number of different colour ranges, or cycling multicolour if you want. My plan was to set them all up for warm white using the remotes, then just turn them on/off from the switch in the pump house, as I do now with the halogen lamps. I have initiated contact, however their factory is closed until 1 December, which is why I am seeking advice here. Because the current halogen lamps I have currently do not have an earth cable. The lamps are mounted on a waterfall... not easy to access and above the waterline but they do get the occasional splashing when it is turned on, and of course they are subjected to rainfall. Why would I need to run an earth?

I bought them from LumiParty on Lazada... The wires do not look thick enough to carry 220V, and they didn't come with a manual.

I recently ordered and received today a set of 4 x 12V LED lights to replace my aging, rusting, and no longer waterproof 12V Halogen lights for our waterfall. The trouble is... the new lights have 3 wires. The wire colours are blue, brown, and yellow with a green stripe. My limited knowledge of 12C DC lighting is that there should be a positive and a negative wire... so what the third wire is for I have no idea. On a 220V AC lighting system the third wire would be used for earthing, but is this required for a 12V DC system? Can anyone please explain how to correctly wire these up?

I like the brush idea... less moving parts and the wheel type always seem to have problems with the split pins.

How old is your vacuum head? Most modern vacuum heads use lead weights (which do not rust). Yours appear to be cast iron. Once rust takes hold it is extremely difficult to get rid of... it's like a cancer. So even thorough acid cleaning, painting, and sealing them in plastic will not stop the rust... only delay it for a while. You have two choices... either live it what you've got (which should be OK as long as the rust stains do not spread to your pool grout), or buy a new one (with lead weights). A similar sized new vacuum head will set you back about 2,000 baht.

The Smart Safety Zone 4.0 project won the “Best Experience in Community Policing” award at the World Police Summit 2022 held in Dubai in March last year.

All of these traffic violations will be captured by a network of "smart" CCTV cameras, not the BIB out in the streets or on patrol. It is part of the award-winning "Smart Safety Zone 4.0" scheme which was initiated by former National Police chief Pol General Suwat Jangyodsuk last year. All the detection work as well as the ticketing notification work will be automated, so no direct intervention or action by the BIB. They will continue to sit inside their AC bunkers and play on their mobile phones.