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https://fmovie-s.to/home/ works for me.

I recently bought a JBL Soundbar (880W) Bar 1000 Pro from PowerBuy and it is awesome! Best feature (apart from the sound) is the HDMI eARC technology that enables your speakers to play everything sent to the TV, whether it is an Android box streaming media from the internet via HDMI, a DVD player playing to the TV via HDMI, or a video file played by the TV from a USB external drive. What size is your TV? The soundbar I bought is exactly the same length as the new TV I bought with it... a 65" Toshiba. Looking at your photos it would appear that there is not a lot of space below the TV to mount a soundbar without interfering with your switches, unless you mount it a bit lower. Although the specs for the soundbar do say that it is a wireless subwoofer, it still needs a power cable to drive the sub amplifier, and another power cable to drive the amplifier for the soundbar itself. I'd recommend heading off to the nearest PowerBuy store and checking them out yourself, and getting the sales rep to demonstrate them for you in the store. That way you can determine performance vs your budget. Here is their store locator.

Is anyone else experiencing issues accessing TGx?

Yes I did try the Paragon Ex/NTFS for USB app and the Total Commander app which is also required. After installing it, when I inserted an NTFS 256GB SanDisk USB stick the Android box recognised the drive and I was able to mount it. I was then able to use Total Commander file manager to copy a 4GB media file from the drive to the internal memory of the UGOOS box, in the /Downloads folder. Note that you are unable to play media files directly from an external drive. I was then able to play the file with VLC, MX-Player, and Kodi without any problems at all. I then unmounted the drive and plugged in an NTFS 2TB WD USB hard drive but the Paragon Ex/NTFS for USB app would not recognize it at all, so there is definitely a FS size limitation for the software. I noted also that it is a "trial version" and would require some form of payment some time. So in summary, yes... it does work within limitations but is extremely cumbersome compared with the plug'n play USB storage media that Windows and NTFS offers. In your language, not sorted by a long shot. I bought my box in March this year. The first thing I did (at the vendor's recommendation) was to update the firmware, so no... not the same issue. HDR is not the issue... Dolby Vision and ATMOS media files is the issue, so please do not misquote or misunderstand me. So? You make no comment about the cost of the (Android based) Nvidia Shield by comparison? You are not comparing similar products. And yes, I do get a lot more bang for my buck. Due to the multitasking OS I can simultaneously download media files from torrent sites using torrent client software and watch a 4K movie with a DTS soundtrack at the same time... effortlessly and with zero glitches. That's your choice. I personally do not have an issue with Windows. For me it is neither an issue nor a problem. And 15W power consumption is negligible for me, compared with all the other household appliances that I have running continuously. Putting things into perspective my coffee machine consumes about 1500 watts to generate just 1 cup of coffee. It seamlessly integrates into my home theatre system and network, and provides much more versatility than a simple Android box would do. I am just advising other members of options other than Android boxes, and the reasons why I have gone down the mini-PC route.

Just to qualify my earlier post about Android boxes and NTFS, some Android boxes do support it... the Nvidia Shield is one. However I recently bought a top-of-the-range Google certified Mecool KM2 PLUS Deluxe box with 4GB RAM DDR4 and 32GB ROM for 4,500 baht from Lazada, and exFAT and NTFS was not supported. None of my external USB drives would work with it, but my 32GB FAT32 USB pen drives would. The other issue with it was that it was advertised as being able to play Dolby Vision and ATMOS media files... which it would not... only if they were streamed from Netflix. After a lot of to/fro with the vendor and Lazada I was able to return the box for a full refund. Note the price of the "good" Android box? 4,500 baht. The mini PC I bought was 1.6 times the price of the Android box, not 4x as claimed by another member. By comparison the latest NVidia Shield PRO 4K HDR with 3GB RAM and 16GB ROM is retailing for around 25,000 baht, so I think that the price of the mini PC is a valid competitor. Companies can integrate exFAT and/or NTFS into a specific group of consumer devices, including Android boxes, cameras, camcorders, digital photo frames etc. but they have to pay a fee paid to Microsoft as they are propriety operating systems, which is why you must do your homework first when it comes to Android boxes. By the way, like any Windows PC you can set a mini PC to update in silent/sleeping hours so it never updates whilst you are watching a movie. It also has Bluetooth and Wifi if that is your preferred method of connecting to the internet. Personally, I like a hard-wired connection via ethernet cable for streaming, even if the average throughput of a Wifi connection is deemed sufficient, wired connections are more stable and reliable and gives you consistent speeds and low latency, whereas Wi-Fi does not.

I've moved away from Android boxes and gone down the mini PC route instead. The latest Android boxes provide good support for streaming, but do not support NTFS external drives, only FAT32 formatted drives, which means that media files are limited to 4GB in size. So if you are like me and have a sizable media library containing 4K and DTS movies (typically 16GB and larger), then a mini PC is the only option due to file size constraints. A 4K mini PC such as the BMAX B4 Plus Mini PC running Windows 11 with an Intel® Gen 12 CPU with 16GB RAM and a 512GB SSD will set you back about 7.5 K baht. It has plenty of USB ports so you can either connect an air mouse (which I have done) or a wired or wireless keyboard and mouse as well as USB drives. It also has an ethernet port so connectivity is not an issue for streaming media. Kodi runs super fast on it.

What airline would you use as an alternative and why?

But the photo clearly shows a black BMW sedan?

Thanks for that... a practical solution to the problem. You are obviously not in Thailand, as if you were you would know that all household lighting electrical wiring is 2 wire 220V AC (no earth) and it is legal here. Your links to Australian products are interesting but of absolutely no use to us here. We can't even buy products from the stores in your links. Anyway, as already stated... I found some replacement 220VAC-12VDC transformers so all is good. And @Fruit Trader thanks again for you helpful advice.

The Xenon build has been further upgraded and is now compatible with Kodi 21.

This page will provide you with the differences in model numbers, although I do not see the 7130 listed... perhaps it has been discontinued?

I have a battery operated OMRON HEM-7121 which has been very reliable. They are relatively inexpensive too - see Lazada prices

Pornchai Electric had them... thanks again.

Thanks for the tip... I will check them out

Our house is 17 years old and was originally fitted out with 3.5inch 12V halogen downlight fittings. Over the year I have progressively replaced most of the halogen bulbs as they failed with LED bulbs and also replaced the 220V-12V transformers as and when they failed. But now I find that I am unable to find any transformers any more in any of the large stores like HomePro or Thaiwatsadu. I have even tried a few "mom & pop" hardware stores locally, but none are available. I am thinking that my only option now is to replace the entire downlight assemblies with 220V units such as the one below, but I am unsure of how to connect the in-ceiling lighting wiring to the pins on the lamp assembly: Any helpful suggestions or alternative ideas would be much appreciated.

I am curious to know what you used to perform your calculations... a software package perhaps? That would be very useful information to have... and enable potential solar system buyers to same lots of baht om system setup.

I never turn it off... it goes into hibernation after a few minutes of no activity. I usually have a few torrents downloading stuff in the background and overnight. When I do restart the computer I don't get any errors. No, I don't have a multimeter.

I think you're right... the CMOS battery needs replacing.

I am running Win10 Home on an older PC, and in the last few days (after updating the software as I'd been away for a couple of weeks) the time zone keeps reverting to UTC +8:00 (Kuala Lumpur, Singapore) rather than UTC +7:00 (Bangkok, Hanoi, Jakarta). I click on Settings, Time & Language, Date & Time, and verify that the time is set automatically. The Set Time Zone automatically option is greyed out and set to Off. The Time Zone is also greyed out but is set to UTC +7:00. I have set the Region to Australia for local content and Regional Format to Recommended [English (Australia)] so I see dates and times in my preferred format (not US English or Thai). But after the computer has gone to sleep and I activate it after a few hours, the time reverts to UTC +8:00. I seem to be only able to reset it by clicking on Add Clocks for different time zones, and selecting the Date and Time tab and change the time zone there, then selecting Apply and OK, as it is greyed out in the Settings/Time Zone window, as above. But... after hibernation the PC time zone reverts to UTC +8:00 again. Can anyone please suggest a fix?

I wholeheartedly agree. We found our builder by chance... initially on Facebook, and liked the style of his construction and attention to details. We looked for professional builders in the Khon Kaen and Nakhon Ratchasima provinces (our site is about halfway between both provincial capital cities)... I was not prepared to commit to building using a local village builder, as I have witnessed the typically poor workmanship and shortcuts they take first hand. Testimonials from his customers indicated that people were happy with his work, the quality, and his prices. He also came across as being proud of the work that he undertakes, and ensures that it is completed to the customer's satisfaction. He has a team of support engineers that can perform the necessary civil and structural calculations to detail design a house from a concept to a full set of architectural engineering and construction drawings. He is also proficient at using 3D imaging software to help visualize a concept. I know of at least one other AN member who used this builder to build a house for him too, and he said that he'd use him again if he were to build another new house. The thing that I like the most about our builder is that he is honest, and genuinely wants his customers to be happy. Sure he makes certain that he is making a profit, but his prices are quantifiable, justifiable, and reasonable, and he is always open to negotiation for extra work. He is also open and honest with his workers and they all respect him. He also guarantees his work, which is a big plus. Although his English was about as poor as my Thai, we were able to communicate face to face and discuss subjects and ideas... and this for me was most helpful and reassuring during problem resolution meetings and planning meetings. The use of Google Search, Translate, and Lens were often used by both of us to get ideas across. He stuck to his schedule (apart from sicknesses and Songkran holidays which were but minor hiccups). Overall, the project came in on-time and on-budget, which in itself is a credit to his knowledge, experience, skills and management. We are looking forward to building our Main House with him sometime in the near future.

Yes, that is the plan. We need to sell our existing house in Najomtien first so I have enough spare cash to build the main house without having to dip into retirement savings. We will live in the Guest House whilst the Main House is being built, and I will be able to have daily surveillance of the work.

Perhaps I should clarify... the house structure itself cost 1.8 million to build (which was the question asked by stupidfarang). That price also excluded supply of sanitary ware, kitchen appliances, counter tops for kitchens and bathroom, water tank and filters and pump, water heater and shower, floor and wall tiles (internal and external), ceiling insulation, external cladding, and external solar lighting. The infrastructure (land fill, retaining wall, electricity supply, raw water well + solar pump, raw water storage tanks and pump, access road + spoon drain, electric gate etc.) cost extra. Yes, I meant the brand "American Standard". Funny that you should mention "Grohe" sanitary ware... we have them in our current house in Najomtien (built 15 years ago) and they are still working well with no issues at all. The water supply must be clean (preferably filtered) and you should check that the faucet filters and supply hoses are regularly cleaned or maintained. We found problem areas in our plumbing when our water pressure dropped over time... we tracked it down to the use of galvanized fittings corroding in the water supply lines where they were mated with PVC or PPR pipe and stainless steel fittings/hoses... galvanic corrosion across dissimilar metals resulted in a build-up of a rusty sludge that clogged the pipework and the filters in the faucets and shower hoses. Something to watch out for...

I will check the cables visually next time I am up-country. The only motors we have are the raw water pump (250W Mitsu), the filtered water pump (200W Mitsu), and the electric gate opener (presumed to be approx 700W/day). All ACs and fridge/freezer are brand new inverter type. The only heavy leccy load users are the water heater (4500W) and the coffee machine (supposedly 1500W/cup). Do you think I am safe for the time being or do I need to rush out and buy a solar power system tomorrow?

I better hope that the piles will do the job they are designed to do then.

I am not an electrician by trade nor am I familiar with "well known" calculations and limits... that is why I employed a builder who had a "supposedly qualified" electrician/engineer to recommend and specify a supply system before we even starting building nearly 2 years ago. That is also what I posted about during by building project in the DIY forum, and this is the first time anyone has warned that it was "crazy". What do you think would be the ramifications of continuing to draw PEA power from our single phase 2 wire 30(100)A system at 10kWh per day, and add an extra 1kWh per hour for every hour that we use air conditioning during the hot months? I do not know the diameter of the supply cables, but I have asked the builder to provide them for me. By pulling more current (and putting up with the resultant voltage drops) are there any other ramifications that I need to consider? Is my wiring going to go into a meltdown? Are there potentially disastrous consequences? @bluejets Your experience and knowledge with "well known" calculations and limits would much preferably be shared in an advisory capacity, rather than calling things crazy.