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Bagwain

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  1. The brown colour is iron in the water supply. Best use "Eco Clear" recycled plate glass in the filter to solve this issue! The amount of copper should be no more more than .3 ppm. In fact it's not a good idea to run copper with a salt chlorinator system.
  2. Typically you are doing well at 5 years. They don't like the constant humidity, unstable power supply & especially low circulation in Pumprooms. A lot die early due to people keeping chemicals etc in the pumproom. No matter what model/brand they are all made in China. If they tell you that they are made in an other country, then a lot of the parts come from China. Some have better quality control at the factory than others. I am discussing a distributorship for a fresh water system that is extremely successful in Australia. They have a good reputation for longivity as well. PM me for details if interested.
  3. There is a Black Spot Algaeside available at most decent pool supply shops. It is well marked. Just get your pH down as low as you can before using it. It will take a few days to work effectively. If you intend to brush the pool let it settle on the bottom & then vacume to waste. Or at least a very good backwash. A 3 month maintenance dose after that. Good luck, it's the bain of the pool industry! Black spot is a symptom of prolonged high pH. Also if you have a large natural waterbody nearby.
  4. I read awhile back that if they tried this then they would get a class action going to sue the Gov for losses.
  5. Zeolite is a cage like structure and fills up with iron & algae. So it needs recharging (Cleaning) at some stage. Average every 5 years. If you have lots of metals in the supply water then earlier. (Iron & magnesium is high all over Sth East Asia) "Eco Clear" is cleaned everytime you do a backwash. Even the biofilm is dispensed. Zeolite
  6. The clear/white recycled plate glass is the go "Eco Clear" Been using it for well over 10 years. It is without doubt the best on the market. Providing you pump & filter are the correct configuration then at night it looks like there is no water in the pool.
  7. Stay away from sandwash in the pool. It turns to 💩 in no tie and has the small pebbles get sucked up by the pump it is also damaged.
  8. Save yourself a lot of futer hassles. Consider PebbleCrete. Hardest surface on the market and gets better with age. Low maintence.
  9. Exactly and don't do it on a monthly basis (way to much). 6 months at minimum, yearly better, otherwise you will be needed a new cell in no time. If the machine is not powering down with no waterflow you can get flow switches. (Worst machine on the market)
  10. Just pop into any large hardware store & read the instructions/labels. Most are 2 part. Plenty will do the job.
  11. Exactly right, manufacturing is the issue with fibreglass shells. As explained in the other thread on this subject, I will only deal with 2 Aussie own manufacturers that both have over 40 years experience. Just about all the rest are cowboys.
  12. Kwak250 see my reply in your other thread.
  13. There are pro's & con with both. At some stage you will have to do some maintenance. If you look after the pool properly at around 10 years (Maybe less) you will be up for some major work. However we have renovated concrete pools 5 years old. One pool we re-grouted after 1 year. Fibreglass shell may need a new gelcoating at around 10 years depending on the fading. If it is quality built. I am a reseller for 2 Australian owned fibreglass shell manufacturers, both with 40+ years exp. These in my opinion are the only ones to deal with. The rest are cowboys. Thai's & unexperienced westerners are flopping pools on the side of the road these days and skimping on quality chemicals & gelcoat. You will save some cash on a fibreglass shell and they are much quicker to have installed. Send me a message if ou would like to talk more about options.
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