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phobic

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Posts posted by phobic

  1. Wrap the bike in plastic yourself so you know the job is good enough.. and take a picture outside the postoffice before you send it. I had trouble once when i sent it, side fairing was scratched alot when i went to pick it up.. and they claimed that the damage was there when it was sent. Kinda funny since i was the one sending it and flew to the destination.

    The officer at the postoffice checked some papers and claimed that the damage wasnt their doing so any insurance wasnt happening, talked with the manager.. ended with some wasted time and a ruined day.. anger managerment thank you.

    But i have sent a few bikes with the post office and this is the only time this has happened. Otherwise they do a good job

    P.S

    Don't forget to remove the rear mirrors

    D.S

  2. Going to give my cbr150 it's first oil change before taking it on its first out of town ride next weekend. I have a couple of questions though if anyone can help. I don't have a torque wrench to remove the oil drain plug like the manual suggests. Do you fellas just use an ordinary wrench or should I buy a torque wrench? The other thing is I can't see the oil filter and it makes no mention in the manual. Does the cbr 150 have a changeable oil filter?

    Thanks

    Hey,

    I dont use a torque wrench for changing my oil, it might be easier though.. so i think a regular wrench shouldnt be a problem for you too.. just make you tighten the bolt when you are done. The oil filter is a joke hehe..its at the bottom front of the right hand side when you sit on the bike. If you want you can open the right side of the engine after you its empty of oil and clean it.. might be some metal stuck there since this is your first oil change. But you should invest in a torque wrench, its a good tool and you will have use for it if you decied to to other stuff with your bike.

    Look at picture and you see the black small disc. :)

    post-69734-1257688062_thumb.jpg

  3. So what you are saying is that if the other person, in this case a Thai.. if he does not hold a DL or got insurance, your injury will be worse then if he did. Sorry but i dont see how that would matter?

    Maybe what you mean is that the financal aspect wont be as smooth or cheap.

    /peace

    Never been on a motorbike,having no driving license then renting a motorbike without insurance,as the pattya rental bikes are not covered out of the pattaya area,and then make a trip of let say at least 2500 km in a country that is infamous for its traffic habits.

    Some will call it brave.I will call it stupid.

    :) ... are you serious? Learn to take chances and start enjoying your life.

    Of course,let's wait till a thai without driver license and/or insurance makes an accident with you and disables you for life.

    I am not so sure that you will still say that he was enjoying life.

  4. First bike was a 50cc Puch Montana in blue color ( not bike in pic ), at 15 years old ( 1996 ).. I then moved on to 125cc when i got my licence for small bikes and bought a Yamaha DT125. Then when i took my big bike licence i got myself a Honda CBR 600 ( very close looking to this one ). Had that for a few years and then i got myself a Yamaha R6 (same color and year but not my bike ). I never owned a 600cc+ bike, i never had the need for it ( sweden's weather isnt ideal for motorbike riding.. about 3-4 months riding / year ).

    Now i own a CBR150 which is good enough for playing around with.. at least for now. :)

    /peace

  5. Dave_boo, yeah i think 150km/h actual is more like the topspeed i can do..like i said its 170 indicated, and speedo's tend to be somewhat inacurate.. i assumed that he was refering to the speedo when he mentioned his speed. :D :D

    Yeah that how i did when i applied the tape, i took both wheels off, cleaned everything and placed the rim on a brick and a towel between rim and brick( so the rim wouldnt get scratched ). Then i rotated the rim with my fingers(gragging the "spokes" on the mag rims to turn the wheel) and used my thumb to apply the tape. Held the taperoll in my other hand. Was quite easy and no airbubbles. Hehe nice explaination eh, well i hope you get the idea :)

    /peace

  6. Hi, I have my 4 yr old cbr about 2 months now, and I have a few Qs. (not neccessarily to do with the following sentence)

    The performance seems to be less than most talk here about. Haven't taken it above 120kph, just doesn't feel sturdy enough, or even capable. 100kph feels about as comfortable as you can go, cruising at 80kph at around 7000rpm is comfortable but after that it isn't comfortable. (I'm 175cm and 75 kg).

    But anyway. It does seem very high, from my usual nsr etc. 2 stokes of old. I was thinking of lowering it, I presume this can be done by the big red spring at the back, but would the front need to be lowered too? And what affect would it have on the handling?

    Also, as I like to cruise at about 7-8000rpm, is there a cheap and easy modification that could bump that speed upto about 100kph instead of the 80kph I usually get? I hear people talk about a K&N air filter, or changing exhausts?

    I'd also like the edge of the rims (only the edge) painted red, I've seen a few and really like the look of it, does anyone know a place that does it and how much they charge?

    Okay, that's it thanks. :D And lovely bike to have btw.

    Hi Yimmy, you are almost identical size as me.. im a bit lighter n shorter though, a few cm's n 5-6kgs. My 3rd redlines at 80-90km/h and topspeed 160-170km/h indicated on speedo ( 170km/h downhill and wind in back :D ), but i have aftermarket carby, aftermarket downpipe and modded stock muffler ( soon i'll have the NMF carbon muffler, thanks to omega69 :) ) and aftermarket K&N filter, racing clutch springs and plates and i run on 15t/44t sprockets, i will try 47t rear sprocket soon though.

    Like thaicbr said, check your sprockets ( stock is 15 teeth front and 44 teeth rear, 14 teeth front improves acclerating so does more teeth on the rear.. 47 teeth is said to be good for rear ) less teeth front, ups the acclerating but takes away some topspeed.. the opposite applies to the rear sprocket(?). The downpipe is probably the best mod for the buck after sprocket changes..you might have to change the jets( up a size or 2 ) in your carb though since your engine will run lean.

    You might want to service it some too, change sparkplug, clean the carby and other wear and tear parts.. if you have'nt done this yet. :D

    I bought my rimtape at this site and this seller CBR150club.com .. 150 baht + the ems..so around 200 baht i think it was. Only issue is that you have to put it on yourself by hand, takes some time and patience but its not that hard, In this tread they have some pictures of another product from progrip too which has a tool that makes it alot easier to apply the tape to your rim... might be worth checking out.

    The K&N filter is about 2000-2500 baht ( the model for that fits the CBR 150 airbox ) and can be bought at Fastcorner ( bought mine there ), I just sent them an email ( in english ) asking for it and they replied that they have it in stock. It makes difference but i dont think its worth the money if you dont plan to get a new pipe/muffler..

    Pipes and mufflers/silencers can be bought at various websites/shops, look at some previous posts here and you will find where. Usually goes for 3500-5500bht with pipe and can. You might do some research in the volume of this cans too, depending on your location some cans might be too loud and you will get fined by our law enforcers.

    /peace

  7. Hey phobic, I can't help you out here but wanted to know what're the benefits of an O-ring chain? I assume the CBR150 comes with a non o-ring chain and thus requires lubing at intervals (what interval exactly I'm not sure). Does this then mean that an o-ring chain doesn't need to be lubed and just replaced when the lube has been "displaced" by a power washer?

    Longer life ( 2-3 times longer some say ) and less maintainence(sp?).. I lube it anyhow, clean and lube about 500km ( or if i been driving on roads with gravel/mud/rain i clean it ). Dont have to i guess but its a habit. One more thing i noticed was that it didnt stretch after i installed it due to the higher tensile strength, which is nice.

    Some say you should lube a chain(regular) every 500km, i did lube it a bit more often though.. doesnt hurt.

    Downside is that its heavier and causing more friction which steals some power.. but its nothing huge.

    Maybe someone have something else to add...

    /peace

  8. Taich. I just a little worried that they have got the jetting correct for the carb. Thats why a dyno run would be good. to set up the carb. Would be horrible if ya take it for a run and you lean burn the piston or something.

    nearest place is dirt shop, onnut Bangkok.

    Hey do you know the price they charge for a dyno ? Im considering to do one in the close future, curious how my carb setup is on a dyno. I saw that LEK CDI does dynos aswell, heard anything about them?

    Thanks

  9. Not at all jbeck, I tried the 90 size front not so long ago ( might have to add this was not a michelin but a dunlop ) and its a nice size but i kinda liked the 100 more coz its heavier and gives a bit more stability.. or at least that was i was feeling when i travel at higher speeds down here in the south ( highways ). :)

    Im not saying you are wrong jbeck just that I like the 100 for it suits my style/need better then the 90 tire.. but i will go down a size or so when i move back bkk, since my riding style have to change some.

    /peace

  10. Jbeck...

    "No. The honda engineers are extremely competent and the stock tire size is optimal for 'normal' driving, stock bike. "

    at a reasonable price, its the accountants that tend to spec things like tyres not so much the engineers.

    But Michelin a tyre company say that on the cbr125 it recommends the 90/80 front and the 110/80 rear for the Pilot sporty. These tyres are really good on the Cbr. personally i would run a 100 front and a 110 rear (the 100 improves your braking confidence so much)

    1000% better than the teflon irc's. can be got from mocyc.cum a guy called golila (not me)

    Got to agree with Allan here, the 100 front is really nice for the breaking and it give nice stability in high speeds. But i guess it depends on where you ride, in bkk the 90 might be a better choice when you want to zig zag through the traffic. But i guess its up to the persons riding style.

    /peace

  11. I guess your concern is that the oil might deteriorate the rubber o-rings? Sorry I don't know about that.

    Yeah, that is my concern.

    BUT my friend recently got rid of his o-ring chain as he got a few frozen links. He figured its from the pressure washers blowing grease out of the chain, and of course you can not get grease back in it. So I just wanted to say, "mind the chain when spraying or having the bike sprayed with a power washer".

    Ok thanks for the heads up, i always wash it myself and dont have a pressure washer so its not a concern right now. But if i take it to a washer i will remember that.

    Also, at a thai bike parts shop here in Chiang Mai, that veloil chain lube is only 65b. It is excellent stuff too. It fizzes and penetrates well when you put it on then it dries up so it doesn't fling off.

    I think i bought mine for 75bht or something, I will give it a try and see what happens i guess..

    Thanks for the replies

  12. yep, bought one a few weeks ago.. been using the usual gear oil, but it flinges(sp?) alot and gets dirty so fast. want to try something new.. not many choices close to my loc though.

    It does'nt say anything on the can.. kinda why i hesitate to use it.

    /peace

  13. o-ring chains are sealed and the lubrication is sealed inside the o-rings. By design, you can't get the lube inside the o-rings. you can use something to keep it clean, and keep the chain from rusting. A 'bad' chain lube will deteriorate the o-rings.

    Wouldn't you get more response if you (re)posted in the main forum?

    Now that wasnt my question was it? I know how O-rings chains work..thank you :)

    I thought of that after i made the post, and i thought i'd give it some time before i made a double post.

    /peace

  14. Hey guys,

    Quick question, I found some Veloil Chainlube where i live.. Its a black can and the lube is kinda blueish color when you spray it. Does this lube work with o-ring chains? Anyone have an idea?

    I tried to find some info with google but nothing to be found, at least when i looked.

    Thanks

    /peace

  15. phobic; thanks for sharing the path you took to get your carbs running right. Should anyone else do the same they at least have a baseline and won't have to be guessing (plus you probably saved some people money). If the grips are too small you can always get bigger ones....

    The grips are no problem for me, but i just wanted to warn the big-handed folk :)

  16. Hey guys,

    Just finished tuning my Keihin PWK 28mm, and dam_n is all i can say. The difference is huge! I have been playing around the jets, needle and fuel screw for a while now and finally found a setup that works nice. jets #35 pilot, #118 main and 3rd clip position on the needle. My sparkplug is nice brownish after riding it for a day now which is sufficent for me :)

    I noticed a increase in acceleration through out the whole rpm range, it flys through gears now.. whole different bike now imho. Im very happy with the result.

    I also installed a new throttle, the domino fast throttle which works nice with this carb. Need to get used to the shorter pull though and the riding will get more comfy..

    The downside though is that is drinks more fuel, which can be a bit annoying. But that didnt come as an suprise... :D

    /peace

    What jets did you start out (what came in it) and how did it run before you changed them?

    where did you buy it?

    how much?

    thanks.

    I started with #32 pilot and #115 main and needle clip pos at 2nd position, it came with #35 pilot and i think it was #138 main and clip position at 3rd. I didnt ran the bike on the jets that came with it, because i got the info about the jets before i tuned the carb.

    I bought it from Akunar.com and the jets too. everything about 3600 baht i think it was. They can get most parts even though they dont have them on the website, just send them a email and ask.

    I bought alot of different jets also from #32 up to #45 and #115 up to #135. They are dirt cheap. The Domino throttle i bought there too, really nice and not too expensive ( might not be so comfy if you have big hands as the grips get smaller).

    Start with #32 or 35# pilot ( makes idle easier to tune ) and #115 main.. then just work yourself up if you need to, clip pos on the needle is 2nd or 3rd to use.

    /peace

  17. Great info there phobic.. makes me think twice of the stock carb i have on. I never dismantled the jets on mine since im a noob when it comes to that. However i noticed that the stock carb doesn't have needle adjustment -its fixed :/

    Btw., what's the difference of a PWK28 ...

    imagespwk.jpg

    And a PE28 ...

    imagespe.jpg

    I know they are both plunger types, but is there something one has over the other?

    One more thing, isn't the PE28 more popular with our CBRs ..plus I noticed the PWK28 has a different intake manifold mounting that connects to the intake port of the cylinder head -or can these manifolds be interchanged (with a slight mod, or just plug & play)?

    The PWK has a better throttle response but harder too tune and more expensive, that why alot of people choose the PE28.. it suppose to really easy to tune. Thats what i heard at least.. now i have not tried the PE28 carb so i can not be 100% sure of this. :D

    I didnt have any problems with the manifold, just had to push it some and it fitted. there are different manifolds to buy though..

    Changing jets is really easy, this is my first carb i tune so im no expert here. But i had help, Dave_boo(thanks) helped me some through PMs and I got help from a thai friend who mods the sonic for racing for advise and tools. I also looked at youtube :) and they had some movies on how to change jets and so on.. but i mainly did all the work myself, its alot easier than i though just takes time and patience. But its worth it.. since i dont have to trust some mech who might know what they are doing..

    P.S

    A/F screw is about 1 turn out from fully tightened, in the start i had some problems with the idle here ( when i applied some throttle it just bogged down and died or just didnt rev smooth in the low RPMs, i had to adjust the screw to make this go away).

    DS

    /peace

  18. Hey guys,

    Just finished tuning my Keihin PWK 28mm, and dam_n is all i can say. The difference is huge! I have been playing around the jets, needle and fuel screw for a while now and finally found a setup that works nice. jets #35 pilot, #118 main and 3rd clip position on the needle. My sparkplug is nice brownish after riding it for a day now which is sufficent for me :)

    I noticed a increase in acceleration through out the whole rpm range, it flys through gears now.. whole different bike now imho. Im very happy with the result.

    I also installed a new throttle, the domino fast throttle which works nice with this carb. Need to get used to the shorter pull though and the riding will get more comfy..

    The downside though is that is drinks more fuel, which can be a bit annoying. But that didnt come as an suprise... :D

    /peace

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