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phobic

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Posts posted by phobic

  1. yep, i got the same sort of vibrations at 7k rpm's+ ... like a buzzing sound, very annoying.. i will try to put some silicone or foam stripes between the fairing bits for damping the vibrations. I have to agree the plastics isnt the best.

    /peace

    Now why didn't i think of that. The silicone idea sounds great. Btw., I noticed silicone has a smell like vinegar (or similar) -is that some kind of acid? Even if id be filling the back parts of the plastic fairing joints.. wont it melt the plastic, ruin the paint, or possibly warp some of the stickers? Any silicone gurus out there?

    I think the problem is for it to bond with the abs plastic if it got paint on it, since my vibrations comes from the small piece in that sits over the brakelight and under the speedo/tacho panel it doesnt matter so much if i need to sand up the area between the fairing bits some for better bonding. I used a kind of silicone on my shoes ( young and did skateboarding ) to repair it, a transparent sort that took like 8-12 hours to dry.. cant remember the name though. The rubber on my shoes didnt melt so i dont know if the ABS plastic would melt.. i think there are different kinds of silicone though.

    But im no expert here, so i will try on a small piece and see what happens.. maybe it will melt or something hehe. I'll prolly do it this weekend when i got time, ill post an update about the result. :)

    /peace

  2. yep, i got the same sort of vibrations at 7k rpm's+ ... like a buzzing sound, very annoying.. i will try to put some silicone or foam stripes between the fairing bits for damping the vibrations. I have to agree the plastics isnt the best.

    /peace

  3. Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question......... :D

    Actually, it is the other way around. I have a stupid answer to a good question. I don't know!

    My mechanic did it, and I never looked at what he did. I do know that when I first took the airbox completely off and put on a big K&N air filter, the noise was objectionably loud.

    I am guessing only - perhaps two holes golf-ball size?

    Anyone?

    Mark

    ps - I will look when I get back next month...

    Ok cool thanks, ill wait then. :)

    I tried the cone/cylinder type airfilter too, and yes it sounds 100 times more.. but i did noticed some more pull on lowrange bit but a bit less in high gears.. running with airbox now though.

    /peace

  4. I worry that ANY aftermarket pipe is going to attract the attention of the police regardless of what anyone selling them to you says. It's not like they are going to do an emissions test or measure the noise levels, they'll just take a look at it and realise it's not the original and, more than likely, has the words racing written on it. I was talking to a guy at work today that seemed to think any changes from stock legally need to be recorded in your green book.

    I have been looking at maybe getting a new downpipe put on the stock silencer. Faddybike quoted me 3200 Baht for this and said it would be done in 3 weeks as they are made to order.

    I think wjmark put on a stainless steel oversize downpipe so maybe he can comment on the noise increase and performance difference, IF my memory serves me right. I need to do this soon as well as my stock downtube is pretty corroded.

    Yup!

    Stainless down-pipe - 2500bt. This coupled with some holes in the air box really changed the bike. Much nippier.

    It is definitely louder and buzzier, but not extreme - nothing like changing the muffler. Cops don't even blink when I pass by.

    And T-Dog, let's be clear - it is not really an 'oversized' pipe - it is just that the stock one is undersized. The inside diameter of the stock pipe is smaller than the exhaust port on the engine. Just one of the ways that Honda 'de-tuned' the bike for normal street usage (I believe that is their motive).

    The restrictive air-box, the CDI limiting at 11.5k (clearly 13k is not a problem for the engine), the 44 tooth rear sprocket (47 and my bike actually has a higher top end, and gets there more quickly), the small down-pipe, etc have all de-tuned the bike.

    So to open up the bike to its 'normal' potential:

    Holes in the air-box, unlimited CDI, change the down-pipe (and muffler if you don't care about noise), 47 tooth rear sprocket, fancy spark plug, fancy spark plug cable, synthetic oil (I do believe I felt some performance difference with the synthetic), 95 octane fuel...

    .... and it is a different bike (same same but different - wah wah wah wah!).

    The only thing I haven't done (this is all called 'stage 1' mods, isn't it?) is go to a bigger carb. Still running the stock jet too. The only problem I have with the bike is a slight dead spot from 6-7 k revs, but it sure lights up over 7k. I usually cruise at 9k+, so not much of a concern.

    Don't forget to get good rubber.

    One more thing - I removed most of the plastic stick-on decals from the bike, and that made it not only more beautiful (black is beautiful - Repsol is so ugly), but also faster (less wind resistance!).

    Oh God how I miss my bike (and my girl-friend too...).

    Back in about a month................

    Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question......... :)

  5. Thanks Dave_boo and songoku777 for the replies. My Domino fast throttle should do be able to do the work then. :)

    I got a aftermarket pipe and stock muffler on my bike and it sounds pretty similar to a stock one, i had it modified though so it sounds a bit more..

    I drove the bike in bkk alot and got pulled over by the BiB but they never mentioned the downpipe, my guess is that if they hear its really loud they will fine ya or if they see its a aftermarket can they will fine ya aswell.

    Withnail check this link, downpipe.. its in thai so get someone to translate to contact the seller.

    1200bht for it i think, dont know about the quality though but worth checking out.

    /peace

  6. I dont see how interests can be the same when there is an age difference of 20-30 year ( yes their might be some rare cases ).

    To the OP.

    You wont find anyone being home, go out.. do something. Doesnt matter if its just for a walk, go to a club.. socialize.. like mentioned before, you wont meet anyone sitting home or working. Who cares if you only meet bad men.. its up to you how far you go right? Somewhere when you not expecting it you will bump into someone who meets your needs.

    (sorry for the bad grammar, im a victim of internet grammar )

    /peace

  7. What difference does the front sprocket make on it's own? I take it that would be cheap. I will definitely be getting some adjustable levers, I have some on my fino which look nice and I'd imagine would make a lot of difference with all the clutch work in BKK. How about the grips? Where's a good place to get them from?

    Changing to 14t front makes it acclerate faster through the gears ( takes away some top end though ).. nice when driving around in bkk or similar and topspeed isnt so much of an issue( you will still reach 130km/h or more depending on your weight. I use it when i do city driving, and the 15t for long drives. Shouldnt cost more then a few hundred baht for a new sprocket and the labour to change it.

    I bought my grips from Akunar, actually i bought a new throttlekit ( domino ). But you can go around and look in some of the accessories shops ( have alot of shops listed in one of the link i listed ) that you have plenty of in bkk. Progrip, domino are the most common ones i think..but you have alot of different brands. just visit a few and see if you can find some you like and have your style. Shouldnt cost more then a few hundred baht aswell.

    /peace

  8. I'm in the club now. Just rode home on my brand new Black CBR. It was noisier than I expected it to be but definitely going to be fun. Got her up to 120km/h without even really trying, definitely fast enough for Bangkok. The only downside is the standard tyres for sure. Feels like a step down in that respect from my Fino.

    Expect lots of dumb questions. I've been following this thread for a while now and am somewhat interested in modding the bike, although as it's new I'm not really interested in any screwing around with the mechanics, more things you can easily change back if there's a problem. I've already got a woman at the shop looking out for Michelins for me, if not I'll order the Pirellis. What I would like to know about are things like the YSS gas shock. Has anybody installed this and noticed a big improvement. Also little things like brake levers and handlebar grips, are these woth getting and any particular place/brand.

    In the future I might consider a new exhaust and/or down pipe and possibly a k and n filter, but probably not yet. I gather it's not recommended to do so without also tweaking things a bit, and that's where I lose interest (and knowledge).

    I also wanted to ask about faddybike, it's the nearest shop to me by far, has anybody actually had anything fitted there? Are their mechanics any good?

    Thanks in advance for help and thanks for encouraging me to spend another load of money I can't really afford. :)

    Congrats and welcome :D

    Good call on the tires. If you talking about the shocks that you can change the way it acts, they are def an improvment.. especially if you are a heavier rider. It makes the ride more smooth if nothing else. here are some good webs you can check out.

    - http://www.cbrclubthailand.com/forum/ <-- some english speakers here which is nice if you have questions or want to buy something you can find yourself **thai/english**

    - http://www.cbr150club.com/ <- same here, but i found that the first one i mention first is alot more friendly **thai**

    - http://www.akunar.com/ <- A good shop, got most mods for the CBR and if they dont have it on the website they can usually order it for you anyway. **english**

    - faddybike you know i see and aseanmoto i did not write down since imho they are way overpriced. **english**

    - http://www.boyzathailand.com/board/index.php <- I recently found this forum, sells aftermarket parts and list shops.. both copies and genuine parts. Lots of different parts to be found. But i have no experience with this one **thai**

    The mods i would do, if not changing anything to the mechanic bit. tires, change to 14t front sprocket ( i dont count this to the mech since its a very simple change and if you dont like it you can change back to 15t easy ), a rear hugger ( for looks and keeping the dirt away from the rear shock and internals ), new rear set, new grips ( i dont like the standard, to hard and my gloves didnt get the best grip in them ) and adjustable levers ( i like to have the levers close to the grip ). And of course you could buy aftermarket hoses and cables such as braided brakecables etc.. most of this items you can find on the sites i mentioned and they are mostly non mech parts.

    hope this help.

    /peace

  9. Was eating at a Mexican restaurant tonight when there was a ruckus at the front window. The waitress called me over to show my beloved and (up to now undinged) bike laying on its side in the headlights of a car with the driver, an old lady talking on her cell phone. A few of the customers saw her hit my bike, push it forward, and then saw it fall as she backed up. So I go out there in the rain and she denies hitting it! She spoke good English, but once she knew there were witnesses, she switched to Thai. Haven't had much of a chance to look at it with the rain, but it looks like the left mirror and the clutch handle took the brunt of it. Hopefully no internal injuries. I have her phone number, and she gave me 300 baht at the end. Arggghhhhh.

    Well, I feel sorry for you guys that don't have a good mechanic to work on your bike. I dropped my bike off to get the clutch handle and mirror fixed, and the guy that works on my bike found a bent handlebar, a sticking throttle (yeah, it had felt a bit like a cruise control throttle), and a defective cam chain tensioner. I didn't believe his story about the tensioner until I let him replace it.... A high pitch rattling noise I had gotten used to is completely gone. He even replaced the bar end caps and the grips, so all that looks brand new. The clutch and throttle pressures are about a third of what they used to be, so the bike feels more responsive and faster.

    So..... 1300 baht to get all the fixed, with the old lady funding 300. Hmmm.... Probably not worth the effort to go after more money so tomorrow morning..... time to ride to Chiang Dao!

    Mind if i ask where this mech is located? Im guessing somewhere north? :)

    thx

  10. Ok, as noted before, I have a new CBR 15 (black), and while I love the bike, I'm not crazy about the stock black wheels (rims) and would love to switch to chrome, or polished aluminum, but can't find anyone who can do that. Anyone here know where I can find some, or get the stock ones chrome plated?

    Hey, im not an expert about getting stuff chromed.. but if you look down on this page you can see someone asking about re-chroming something..and there is a shop mentioned in that thread ( bkk ) that can do stuff.. im not sure if they do wheels though.

    /peace

  11. Hey guys,

    Anyone here know where i can order or that can buy for me and send to me ( Ill pay for everything ofc ) a sparkplug ( Denso Iridium IU-27 - Denso Iridium IU-27A ). Also What length does the throttle cable has to be for the 28mm keihin pwk carb?

    Thanks

    Andreas

  12. Hey if you dont have any problems with buying from a dealer located a little bit outside bkk. I saw that they have a few Raiders for sell ~30.000 baht each.

    http://www.bunkloso.com/index.php?module=P...view&id=363

    Might want to give them a call and ask, no english last time i talked with them though.. :D

    /peace

    They are a Suzuki dealer? I can't find their address on the site...

    can you translate any of this (besides the phone number?)

    59.Suzuki raider กล่องโม,คาร์บู n-pro คอท่อพิเศษปลายโม

    อาณาจักร แห่ง อะไหล่มอเตอร์ไซด์ ทั้งใหม่ - เก่า รับซื้อ และ จำหน่าย มอเตอร์ไซด์มือสอง ราคายุติธรรม โทร.087-6111555, 081-7572194

    thanks,

    Jeff

    I dont remember the adress, but if you have someone who can speak thai close by... give them a call ( 087-6111555, 081-7572194 ) and they will def tell you what you need to know. Might give them a call and ask if they still have those raiders in stock.. no use going there to find out they have been sold already :)

    I have no experience doing business with them, just asked about a bike they sold before. But it might be worth a try. :D

  13. Hey, just ordered some parts from akunar ( 28mm carb, clutch plates/hd springs and ajustable levers ).. i have a yet another question. Im thinking of buying a new drive chain too. I see in the service manual that the stock chain is a DID 428VI-124LE, now i understand the 428 bit.. what does all the other numbers/letters mean? I looked up some chains on the net and found some 428 models but they dont have the same numbers/letters that the stock one have.

    Will there be any problems if i buy lets say a DID 428H 126L?

    **edit** I found out that it was a mix of the tensioner for the timing chain and the springs for the clutch that caused the issue i had before, springs where in bad shape and the timing chain was too loose.. thanks for helping me with that guys. **

    Thanks

  14. And back at phobic;

    If I'm right about the clutch, than there's 4 clutch springs. Each has a bolt passing through and if any of those bolts sheared, you'd hear a nasty racket in the clutch housing, especially when first started. If just the spring(s) broke, there wouldn't be a noise that a lay person would likely recognise, but there would be clutch chatter when engaged. These noises will be to some extent attunated due to the oil bath the clutch is in.

    There's only a handful of clutch plates in the basket; they should be dirt cheap. Faddy carrys replacement clutch friction plates/clutch springs.

    จานหรือแผ่นอัดคลัทช์, แผ่นความฝืดของคลัทช์ is clutch friction plate

    จานวงแหวนอัดแผ่นคลัทช์ is clutch pressure plate

    สปริงดึงกลับของแป้นเหยียบคลัทช์ is clutch pedal return spring (same-same as the main clutch springs?)

    แบริ่งหลัก is main bearing

    แบริ่งหรือลูกปืนเพลาลูกเบี้ยว หรือฐานรองรับการเสียดสีระหว่างเพลากับการหมุนของลูกเบี้ยวเครื่องยนต์ is camshaft bearings.

    เครื่องปรับโซ่หมุนเฟืองแบบอัตโนมัติ ของเครื่องยนต์ชนิดที่ใช้โซ่ประสานเฟืองต่อเฟือง is automatic chain tensioner

    A small update, i went to the honda shop were i bought my cz-i because they are supposed to have mech's that are trained in bkk. And they would not touch the bike, just a outright NO.. and said its suppose to be like this... right. So i will have to go a bit further to Trang and visit a bigger honda shop for this i guess. Good thing though is i got my hands on a service parts manual so now i have the pictures and names in thai for all parts.

    Thanks for the update Dave_boo, I will keep you guys updated.

  15. Sounds more like what T-dog sez. Why dont you take it back to the Engine rebuilder cos thats what it sounds like. it could also be the main bearings are shot.

    Checking both issues that was mentioned, I have been to the mech but like i said, either they dont know or just to lazy to open the engine and look.. so i came here to get possible wrongs so i can tell the mech exactly what i want him to do. Will look into the head bearings also, thanks.

  16. What would you recommend me buy for this? What parts are needed for fixing this with the clutch ( i dont know if you saw my edit but i replaced the clutch housing ) If you know the names in thai that would be awesome :)

    Yes i will look into both matters hopefully this will ix my bikes issues, thanks for the help as always guys!

  17. Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

    Could that cause the vibration too?

    Yes.

    Have you noticed what could be called 'clutch slippage'? I.e., under acceleration does it not get up and go like it used to, especially in lower gears?

    Yeah, its like it looses power for a millisecond or so.. then regains it. and the tachometer is bouncing at those moments..

    **edit** have to add, i replaced the clutch housing too ( dunno is its called that, the round metal thing that hold the clutch plates )

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