drtreelove

1 hour ago, WaveHunter said:

You make some good points however I have issues with people like Dr. Berg simply because they over-simplify complex concepts and do it in a way to support their narrative.  They are therefore not being truthful and lead people astray.

 

I agree with you that what is scientific "fact" today can becomes a fallacy tomorrow.  People used to firmly believe in the "food pyramid" concept from a few of decades ago in which carbohydrates were considered the foundation a healthy nutrition.  Science has soundly disproven that today.  Now the question is, will science again disprove the current view?

 

Well, if you look back you can see that science NEVER supported the notion behind the Food Pyramid, at least not with empirical clinical studies, in the first place.

 

If you discount the scientific method and only rely on clinically unsupported, anecdotal accounts, or cherry-picked bits of scientific research that's out of context (which is what Berg often does), then you really are flying blind if you embrace such notions.

 

If I have been led astray, then astray is where I want to be.  I'm just saying, my health is improving weekly, along with sense of well being, spiritual awareness, progressive mastery of my profession, marriage, and cycling legs and lungs that allow me to ride and breathe in the refreshing farmland, hills and forests. Dropping sugar, alchohol, seed oils, preserved foods, plastic containers, Rx medications, recreationals, and consuming low carb high fat foods, high nutrient density organically grown foods as much as possible, exercising, chi kung, using TCM herbs and acupuncture, observing Ayurvedic Tridosha and TCM dietary principles, yin and yang, five elements, thermal qualities of heating and cooling foods, is not for everybody, 200 years of modern science plus thousands of years of Taoist and Ayurvedic empirical research, all works for me, take it or leave it. 

Back to the OP. My favorite breakfast is fish and eggs. 

Be Fixed, MeeChok Plaza. (1001 at the middle ring road 3029) Upstairs, inner hallway behind a toy store, stairway near the toilets . 

Khun Oh speaks pretty good English, but he is kind of quiet and humble so you may not think so at first. Take a Thai friend translator if possible.  He is a really nice man and very smart and good at what he does with hardware and software. 

One man shop. Call first to confirm his schedule. Usually opens 10am Mon - Sat. but this is a holiday week.

081 783 5920

On 7/14/2022 at 9:23 AM, drtreelove said:

Saha Panich on the 108/Chotana Rd

Should be 107 Mae Rim Hwy not 108.

On 7/6/2022 at 9:08 PM, Reposed said:

Got mine at Index. Don't know if CM has an Index.....

 

but mine is for sale.

Yes, CM has Index. East side SuperHwy south of the 118, just south of BigC/HomePro/BQuik.  We've bought furniture there, not sofa. good selection, prices and delivery/setup.  

I'm looking for leather re-upolstery shop in CM for a double recliner, any suggestions?  

11 hours ago, kickstart said:

First off it will not be clover that we know of , that is a temperate crop, it will not grow here ,to hot,

You could try leaving the grass an inch or so longer ,let the grass grow taller than the weed ,and in time the weed grass will die out.

If you do not already ,put some urea fertilizer on the grass ,encourage the grass to grow  and thicken out,other grasses should die out .a few hand full's  of lime would not go a miss. 

 

Yes, 'let the grass grow taller' is consistent with the OLC (organic land care) practices. 

The only time I use chemical fertilizer any more is sometimes for lawn grass where I want maximum green and lush. But only a lite application every six to eight weeks, and I prefer Ammonium sulfate 21-0-0.  But heads up, I notice that with high salts chemical fertilzer, surrounding shrubs and trees with root zones extending into the lawn, will start to get more pest damage. As we know now, high NPK chemical fertilization causes severe imbalances and can be an arthropod (insect and mite) pest magnet. 

14 hours ago, Pogust said:

Not an answer to your question but....

If I had clover over the whole area I would be very happy. It stays low and green with small yellow flowers. It is a legume so collect it's own nitrogen from the air, no need to buy fertilizer. And no need to mow.

 

If you want to get rid of it, sow something that out-compete it and grows more vigorously. If you have seeds in the ground it will come back, after digging or spraying. There are plenty of grasses in Thailand that will take over.

 

 

 

This is an intelligent comment in my opinion.  Embrace the clover and the diversity, would be my preference too. 

But I do understand the desire for uniform healthy turf grass and I have succesfully managed yaa malaysia (broadleaf carpet grass) and  yaa nuan noi to dominate over weeds without herbicide. Its a year-long process or more, but to do this I use organic lawn care methods. (good soil preparation, good water management, mow weekly during growing season, mow high at 3 inches (don't scalp with a krueng tat yaa), mow without catcher to return clipping to the soil (works best with yaa Malaysia, yaa nuan noi is too dense and clippings will sit on top), aerate annually and input high quality compost and COF - complete organic fertilizer, hand pull or dig weeds regularly, before they go to seed).  

Selective herbicide will kill broadleaf weeds in grass. Yaa Malaysia is sensitive to broadleaf herbicide damage, so only use herbicide with the Zoysia. The turf-specific herbicides available in the US, like SpeedZone, Weed-B-Gone and others have 2,4-D and dicamba as primary active ingredients. I have not seen those here in Thailand, but I haven't really looked. See this TV discussion for a recommendation from a member, but also note my caution about using broadleaf weed killers in proximity to trees. I have had many cases where tree roots have taken up the broadleaf herbicide and caused extreme leaf distortion, discoloration , leaf drop and even branch die-back.

If your 'clover' is extensive, with the use of herbicide you will go through a long transition period with ugly patches of dead clover.  The grass dominance will depend on your diligence and good management that favors it and at what season you start the treatment program (grass doesn't grow as vigorously during the cooler months). 

The best method would be to completely remove the existing turf and clover growth, prepare the soil to a 6" depth with compost and COF roto-tilled in, then overlay new sod. Then the weed management will be limited to spot pulling of new weeds and cultivation of your new turf grass to dominate. 

You can have my shelved neem, wood vinegar and lemongrass, I don't need them any more. I've found that the secret to effective pest control starts with soil fertility, and essentially involves a comprehensive, preventive IPM (Integrative Pest Management) program.

For beetle identification post photos, although I don't think that the ID is as important as trying to understand why any pest is there in the first place.  Which will likely be primarily low nutrient density from inadequate soil fertility.

Trying to control an advanced pest infestation with bio-pesticides, as a substitute for contact chemcial insecticide is usually futile.  An organic program requires forethought, anticipation of seasonal pest cycles, and early intervention or preferably preventive management. 

That said, if you're stuck with an advanced infestation, first consider if the damage is excessive and intolerable and is affecting the actual fruit/veggie product, or if the problem is primarily cosmetic; are the squash and melons negatively affected or only a relatively small percentage of the foliage?  A large percentage of foliar loss of course can mean reduced capacity for photosynthesis of sugars and metabolites that are required for the squash and melons to mature and become tasty and healthy. 

My choice for a knockdown spray for beetle pests would be a pyrethrum concentrate (pyrethrins, the chrysanthemum flower extract, which is biodegradable in 12 to 24 hours and considered organic program compatible. Not to be confused with the synthetic chemical version, pyrethroids, like permethrin and cypermethrin.) 

But I haven't purchased or looked for pyrethrins in Thailand for over 12 years so I don't know where to get it now, and its not widely understood or available. In the US I use Pyganic or Evergreen Pyrethrum Concentrate, which are wildly popular and on the shelf at most organic and cannabis growers supply shops. 

Azadirachtin concentrate/neem seed oil extract, wood vinegar and lemongrass and companion planting etc are best used for a preventive program when pest pressure is anticipated or in early onset. A combination may have some knockdown effect, but the pyrethrins is better if you want to see the bugs fall off the plant immediately after spraying. In California I spray oak moth caterpillars that defoliate native oak trees, and the worms fall out of the tree before I can get out of the way. 

Thai 888 Law, Pattaya/Jomtien.

17 hours ago, JimmyJ said:

The LG store was no help - seems they are not dealing with phones any longer.

 

Does anyone have an Android repair shop they recommend?

K Love Phone, Central Festival, 3rd Floor

repair counter with excellent and efficient techs, at rear of store. 

(15) K Love Phone - โพสต์ | Facebook

19 hours ago, WaveHunter said:

I hate to burst your bubble but Dr. Berg, Dr. Berry, and Dr. Eckberg are really terrible sources for unbiased, science-based information on nutrition.  Their basic message is honest and even valid to a point, but they all grossly over-simplify complex topics to the point where they are not giving an accurate picture of what they are talking about, and worse, making it seem that there is a "miracle food" or supplement for just about anything that ails you....and, especially in the case of Dr. Berg, he usually just happens to SELL a food product or supplement that will solve the problem he happens to be discussing.

 

Essentially they are all producing these videos on an almost daily basis, which is highly suspicious.  I mean, where does a reputable professional find the time to produce all of these videos anyway, if they are not gaining financially from producing them.

 

BTW, it might surprise you to learn that Dr. Berg is a chiropractor, NOT a medical doctor, or licensed nutritionist.  Dr. Eckberg is also NOT an MD.  He is also only a chiropractor.  Dr. Berry, while he is a licensed MD only has a small rural GP practice, so none of these guys are really credentialed in a way that makes them trusted sources.

 

If I were you, I would look to more science-based sources for knowledge than these guys.

If you were me, you would look to what inspires you to make positive changes, and works for you to improve your health, physical, psycological and spriritual well being, and not try to sell the idea to others that MDs and modern science are the only source of good information, and that DCs, naturopaths, and traditional medicine are invalid. As a lifelong student and practitioner of natural health and healing, necessitated by an intensly athletic profession and sports, I have drawn as much help from TCM, Aurveda, chiropractic, polarity and massage practitioners as I have from the MDs and orthopedic surgeons who have kept me going. 

In my opinion, "science based" is deeply flawed. I've been around long enough to have seen many scientific-research-based beliefs and practices disproved by the next set of scientists with their new research that comes along. My father was a horticulturist and my mother a nurse practitioner/nutritionist.  The science of their day that I apprenticed in has long been greatly modified and replaced by newer information.  I would be a fool to assume that all the current popular science of horticulture and health care will endure. 

Eric Berg and the others mentioned, from my experience are not deserving of the negativity that you present. I find that they are enthusiastically sharing information and experiences that they have gained from their practices and patient's experiences, as well as their own experience. What they are presenting is a program, with certain components, that if put together in real life practice, can help certain people who are attracted to the information, with certain health and lifestyle issues. The products they offer are not the focus, they are offered as adjuvants within the comprehensive program. 

On 9/8/2021 at 1:51 PM, WhiteBuffaloATM said:

No Breakfast. Plant Based Diet. HIIT Exercise. Intermittent Fasting. Diet: Low Carb / Mid Protein / High Fat. Produces Sustainable Weight Loss, Great Sleep, High Energy / Mood. Dr. Eric Berg -You Tube.

Dr Eric Berg is an awesome nutritionist, but he does not advocate for a plant based diet. That may be your preference, not mine. I followed his amazingly revelationary videos, as well as Dr Ken Berry ("Normal Human Diet", and "Lies Your Doctor Told You" author), and Dr Sten Eckberg (athlete and MD)  and some others, all along the same lines with Ketogenic diet, no sugar, no seed oils, no alcohol, low carb, no between meal snacking, Intermittent fasting, exercise (not necessarily HIIT). 

Weight loss wasn't a big issue for me, but in the first month I dropped 5 kilos without really trying. What was a big issue was recovering from about 4 years of pain and relative inactivity and bilateral hip replacement surgeries, with all the pain meds and anti-biotics that go along with it. I've been able to drop all prescription meds and NSAIDs, reverse all acute and chronic conditions, high BP, GERD, BPH.  No Covid, colds or flu. After almost a year into a modified keto plan, at 75 I'm sleeping good, getting up to pee only once at night instead of 4 or 5 times. I'm happy to be back out off-road mountain biking, swimming laps and  lite weight training. No more joint inflamation even with metal knees and hips. I've still got a ways to go, but I feel like I'm getting younger not older. 

Since we're on the subject: 

I was wrong, they do call it a "license". 

Electrical Saw Act B.E. 2545.pdf (thailawforum.com)

Electrical is a bad translation, it should be "Power Saw Act".

This was ameneded in about 2009 when the under 12" saws were allowed on the market. 

Its good to have a full range of tools for the job at hand; hand saws, loppers, pole saw, pole pruner, etc. 

15 hours ago, farmerjo said:

They say you get what you pay for.

What i've got is a 1700 baht 740 watt chainsaw that does 3-4 days work a year and expect it to fail after not many hours.

This morning i replaced the short cable of the chainsaw with a 20 metre one with thicker wiring so an extension cord is not need as as the square junction box would snag as the Fil moved around.

So it is now a 2200 baht saw but will get the cable back after he destroys it.

I know the chain will be blunt by now so looking for a couple of replacement ones.

Are chains universal?

Will an 11.5" bar chain fit all makes of chainsaws.

I saw this on lazada but think the price is to cheap.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/115-electric-chain-saw-parts-for-115-inch-woodworking-tool-wood-cutting-parts-i207875916-s12078371040.html?exlaz=d_1:mm_150050845_51350205_2010350205::12:13920044294!125392363912!!!pla-294682000766!c!294682000766!12078371040!129655195&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8aj87fDM-AIVSE5gCh3O-gchEAQYBCABEgIAn_D_BwE

 

 

 

 

You're right, thats way too cheap for a chain loop, maybe a price per drive link. 

Saw chain is not necessarily universal. Its best to get it fitted to your bar and sprocket. But with the 11.5" chain loops being sold online you may get lucky on the fit. 

There is the gauge/thickness of the drive links that have to fit properly into the track of the bar. (Usually 0.050") Then there is the pitch, the distance between rivets and drive links, which has to do with how the drive links fit the sprocket. (Thats the 3/8" that you see in the ads, but 0.325" pitch is also common and would be a lighter, faster chain. ) A mismatch with either of these will be unworkable. And then there are different cutter designs, semi-chisel, anti-kickback, etc, which have more to do with performance. The drivelinks are stamped with a model number on better sawchain brands like Stihl or Oregon.

See www.planopower.com, how to determine size of replacement saw chain.

On 6/21/2022 at 5:07 PM, Robin said:

There is a curved pruning saw available in most places for about 300 B and works well.  I am on my third saw, as it is easier to by new when it needs sharpening.  I leave the old ones about for wife's family to borrow and leave my decent saw alone.  Great, non-polluting, and good exercise, and less chance of injury than using chain saw 

This is a very good recommendation. 

Yes, chance of injury is not to be taken lightly. 

For the best performance and durability in a curved pruning handsaw, choose one with a Japanese tri-cut tooth design and best quality steel that you can find. 

Topman brand at HomePro is pretty good. 

On 6/21/2022 at 5:01 PM, farmerjo said:

The electric one is same wattage as mine as well as blade length.

Mine runs at 5000 rpm.

Looks like it has an oiler button which would be better.

The biggest complaint with electric and battery power is if they have the plastic internal gear which strips the teeth after time.

Some have all metal gears.

What i like about electric is the light weight of machine.

The biggest complaint, from a professional, would be the gutless 5000 rpm, when you're used to a screaming 14,000 rpm Husky with no batteries to charge and change

The new generation battery saws are awesome, especially Husqvarna, I haven't shopped for them in Thailand; I don't know whats available. 

Its not a licensed that's needed for larger chainsaws, it a requirement to register with local RFD forestry office. It's a measure to regulate illegal logging. Not so much about the saw as it is about what you are doing with it.  Under 12" do not require registration, but stay away from high profile, high volume tree removals that look like logging. 

My advice is not to buy from a big box store, most of them don't offer service.  In Chiang Mai the two places that I've bought chainsaws (and bladed brush cutters, pumps and sprayers, mowers, and other power equipment) are Sriyont in Wat Ket, on the road along the east side of the river,  and Montree the big yellow building at the corner of the SuperHwy and Chotana rd at Kwang Sing interesction. 

If you haven't used a chainsaw before, there is a learning process for safety and efficient operation, and for maintenance.  If you don't know how to keep it out of the dirt and rocks, your saw will become instantly useless.  If you don't know how to file the cutters and depth gauges (rakers) yourself then you are S.O.L. (if you're American you know what that means).  I'm available for a free chainsaw training session. 

I have a experienced local guy for you to hire if you are interested. He's super efficient and will get a lot done in a day; you can concentrate on the cleanup.  He's a foreman, climber, pruning expert for a large orchard operation in Mae Jo University area. I used to hire him on his days off, for work on our mature mango and lamyai orchards, and as a climber on a tree crew I had going a few years ago. (He still runs the 12" Makita gas chainsaw that I gave him about 12 years ago. 

On 6/18/2022 at 10:28 PM, Stubby said:

I hear what you're saying, but the counterargument also makes sense. Here's one of many extracts of similar research:
 

Several studies of historical food composition tables show an apparent decline in food nutrient content over the past 70 years. This decline has been attributed to soil degradation and the "mining" of soil fertility by industrial agriculture.
 

Source.
 

And I think even the honest producers of vitamins and minerals say not to replace a healthy balanced diet with supplements. Instead, use them with food to ensure the body gets all it needs.
 

Stubby

I think this is a significant and very valid point about 'nutrient density' in the food we eat. 

"Just eating an averaged balanced diet, getting sunlight on your skin, is all you need to do."  

This is a beautiful fantasy, but as a soil analyst having evaluated soil tests from agricultural soils in Chiang Mai as well as other regions of Thailand, I can verify that we have some of the most degraded ag soils that I've seen, including in most "organic" farms. 

Unfortunately, organic grower certification and food product labeling does not require a minimum soil organic matter content, healthy soil biology populations, adequate and balanced soil mineral integrity, or plant sap analysis for assessing nutrient density, but only avoidance of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Which of course is not nearly enough to ensure food quality. 

22 hours ago, R0birt said:

Thank you so much for your post. I bought 12kg of coconut compost and another 12kg of dirt. Do you still advise on the worm compost, I have been told the coconut is similar to the worm, is that true?

For 4-4-4 fertilizer do you suggest something like this or can I get it cheeaper: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/gaia-green-4-4-4-all-purpose-organic-fertilizer-500g1kg2kg-usa-mrherbman-i3702953901-s14014013642.html?search=1&spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.i18.14f43597AssOYs 

I see 16-16-16 online and it's quite cheap, but I do not know the difference between them.

Thank you very much for your help
 

Yes on the vermicompost, it has some very good properties.  You can search and read all about it. It's not the same as "coconut compost" but you can use both when making your own container soil blend. The only problem with anything labeled as "compost", is that it may not really be composted (decomposed/digested by soil micro-organisms, and may be composed of raw organic matter. This would be okay for mulch (soil surface covering), but not for a potting soil/container planting mix.  

As for a fertilizer product, the Gaia Green 4-4-4 from Canada looks good as a COF. It has some excellent ingredients:

• Feather meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, blood meal, natural phosphate rock Mineral Phosphate Potassium sulfate, insect slag, basalt dust, humic acid, gypsum, seaweed, oyster shell, green sand.
• GAIA GREEN All Purpose is approved for use in organic agriculture by Ecocert Canada (according to the General Principles of the Canadian Organic Production System).

Avoid the 16-16-16 or any high-salt-index chemical fertilizer.  Yes it's cheap, and you get what you pay for.  It's imbalanced and only provides certain mineral nutrients, at the expense of complete plant nutrition and high nutrient density food production, and reduces resistance to pests and diseases.  High NPK chemical fertilizers are too harsh and are detrimental to the beneficial soil microbiome, dessicates roots, and creates conditions for a plant to become a pest magnet.  

In my opinion, there is not much difference in best managment practices and fertilizer requirements for herbs, and other herbacious plants, vegetables and flowers.  So I don't think you need to be looking for specific herb fertilizer.  

There are many factors to consider in creating best growing condtions and management for healty plants , sunlight exposure, containers, raised beds or in-the-ground, and especially water management, as well as fertilizer and other issues. There are die-hard advocates for the predominant old-school chemcial fertilizers, but I prefer organic and soil-food-web based methods and materials.  

There have been many discussions on this forum and the Farming in Thailand forum on fertilzers. Here's a recent one: 

You can thin the fruit where they are tightly clustered and that may help.  But there is more to it than that.  Plant health and fruit development has everything do with soil fertility and water management.  Plants in pots are challenged due to limited soil volume and restricted root expansion, deficiencies in potting soil, and sometimes either poor drainage and root rot, or the opposite, rapid drainage, poor moisture retention and leaching of nutrients. If containerized plants are not re-potted every couple of years, into a slightly larger container with new soil mix, they can become root-bound and unable to take up water and nutrients adequately.  At the minimum, fertilize with slow release COF (complete organic fertilizer) and maybe buy a soil moisture meter to take the guess-work out of watering, not too much or too little. 

On 5/10/2022 at 11:06 AM, VocalNeal said:

My wife sprays with washing up liquid mixed in water.

This is a good suggestion.  Insecticidal soap can be a useful, organic-program-compatible pesticide, but is not appropriate for all pest and disease conditions.  And it will not correct the underlying factors that weaken the plant and make it susceptible to the pest or disease. Don't use just any soap or detergent to make the insecticical soap solution, as some ingredients are phyto-toxic.  

The vinegar version may be useful for the powdery mildew if that's what it is. Vinegar should be used according to directions only, because concentrated solutions are toxic to plant foliage. 

Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe

The simplest insecticidal soap is nothing more than a 2% soap solution. To make this at home, you will need:

• Sprayer: Any clean spray bottle or garden sprayer will work fine for spraying insecticidal soap. Make sure the sprayer or bottle hasn’t been used for herbicides.
• Pure Soap: Use a pure liquid soap, such as Castile, or all-natural soap. The active ingredient in insecticidal soap comes from the fatty acids in animal fat or vegetable oil, so it’s important to use the real thing. Don’t use detergents (which aren’t actually soaps), dish soaps, or any products with degreasers, skin moisturizers, or synthetic chemicals. Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap is usually pretty easy to find in stores, or check your local natural-foods store for other options.
• Pure Water: Tap water is fine for making insecticidal soap. If you have hard water, you may want to use bottled water to prevent soap scum from building up on your plants.

To make homemade 2% insecticidal soap, mix together:

• 5 tablespoons soap to 1 gallon of water     OR
• 1 heavy tablespoon soap to 1 quart of water

Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe Variations

Like any other home remedy, there are as many variations on this recipe as there are gardeners! You can also try:

• Diluted Solution: If the spray causes damage or burns your plant foliage, cut the amount of soap in half and try a 1% solution. This is the concentration usually found in commercial sprays. The lighter solution might be less effective but is gentler on plants.
• Cooking Oil: To help the solution stick a little longer, add two tablespoons of light cooking oil (such as corn, canola, olive, or safflower) per gallon of water to the mix.
• Vinegar: To make a spray that also targets powdery mildew, add a teaspoon of cider vinegar per gallon of water to the mix.
• Garlic or Pepper: To help repel chewing insects, add a teaspoon of ground red pepper and/or garlic per gallon of water to the mix.
• Bar Soap: For a less-exact recipe, drop a bar of pure soap (such as organic bar soap or Ivory) into a gallon of water and leave it overnight. Remove the bar and shake well before spraying.

On 5/10/2022 at 10:49 AM, The Hammer2021 said:

Thank you for your detailed answers and sorry for the lack of detail and supportive evidence.

It's a single decorative  plant grown outside in shade in a pot. I think that may  be a problem - the shade.

I guess what I want  is a general 'broad spectrum ' all round fungicude/ pesticide systemic or otherwise- I won't be eating or smoking the plant.

I wonder if the source of stock is an issue- from the same nursery I got  plants which  wilted as though over or under watered but this  was not  the  case - I think an infestation of ants had attacked  the roots.

Is that likely  or  possible?

So you might agree I need an all round combination fungicide insecticide combined OR

Should I just throw the plant out and buy a new one?

Yes the shade is a likely factor.  Some plants are more tolerant of shady conditions than others.  So if your plant is sun-loving, and its health and resistance to disease depends on full sunlight and photosynthesis, you may be better off replacing it with a shade tolerant species, or installing artificial lighting. 

A broad spectrum fungicide may provide temporary control of a fungal infection, but will not correct the contributing factors that make the plant susceptible to the disease, so the disease will return, or another disease or pest will attack a weakened plant.  

There are organisms that can cause root damage, but ants are not likely. Ants may be present, due to favorable habitat for their nesting and nearby food sources, but they will not normally be feeding on the plant tissues. Termites could be an exception, but they feed primarily on wood that is dead already. 

Root-rot from soil-borne pathogens (fungi and water-molds) can originate from the original growers practices and potting soil, or from your own management, over-watering or high Nitrogen fertilization. 

You could re-pot the plant, with a slightly larger pot and better potting soil. And buy a soil moisture meter to take the guess work out of when and how much to water. But of course this won't correct the shady environment factor.