WarpSpeed

BTW the above formula for adjusting for turbo on a high compression engine is not all that dissimilar from an LP application without a turbo, the same problems exist in trying to find the right compromise between power and engine wear with dual fuel systems.

This from a website...this is with 12:1 CR. This motor would do well with a turbo but only on low boost.

2.0L Skyactiv - G 12:1 CR

This 2.0L can put up a fight! With 12:1 Compression it doesn't need much boost to make the wheels spin. The engines connecting rods and Crankshaft are extremely stout. With no breaking point yet found. However, to ensure 100% safe reliability, we limit our kits to putting out 4.5psi of boost. Doesn't sound like much.. because you don't need much. 4.5psi + 12:1 compression = big power and quick spooling. With only 4.5psi you're already approaching 230+HP to the wheels, and a few more psi would put it in the 300+ Range.

So they lowered the CR..... surprise surpise.

Warpy said no cars need compression to be lowered to add a turbo.

Iam saying the 2.0 Skyactiv G with 14:1 CR does (Thai maz 3 is 14:1, USA maz 3 is 13:1).

and lol at 4.5psi of boost... that certainly tells you the limits of the engine block with 12:1 CR and boost.

And ahhh the Turbo 2.5 Skyactiv engine in the CX-9..... it has a CR of 10.5:1 and makes 227hp at the engine.

Have a read up of it you like (link below) and get back to me if you really think one can simply just slap a turbo onto these high compression motors easily whilst still maintaining some semblance of reliability.

http://www2.mazda.com/en/publicity/release/2015/201511/151119b.html

Ermm I did not say that "NO CARS or ENGINES" need to lower compression to apply a turbo. The OP was about the Honda 1.8l not just any engine so get your info correct it makes you and others look really ignorant and pokes all sorts of holes in your understanding and any rebuttal you have. It is NOT a SKY ACTIVE Mazda engine and furthermore just because they DO lower it for all sorts of reasons (not the least of which is longevity) does not mean it NEEDS to be lowered in order to properly operate. DELETED

Some cars (modern) most definitely need compression lowered.

Why? When the purpose of adding a turbo is to increase compression and is directly related to boost pressure?

Because an engine's compression ratio is generally designed to be the maximum it can be without causing knock. If you then added a turbo without lowering the ratio, the extra pressure would likely cause knock and end up destroying the engine.

Again, you don't seem to understand the issues involved here.

DELETED

A turbo is intended to create more compression and there are plenty of ways to control knock without having to lower compression which is why I asked the question to see how many people here REALLY understood that DELETED.

Both boost pressure and octane can be adjusted one lowered and the other lifted to prevent knock along with timing and various other adjustments to the ECU, if need be a piggy back ECU. It is done on stock rotary engines all the time which have no real internal after market parts to speak of nor do they require them but instead the adjustments are made externally. The point being that ALL modern high performance turbo engines begin with high compression in the first place (which is relative) and then the turbo increases it even more not the other way around, by forcing air into the same small area.

The adjustments are made according to boost control and octane but if you already have a high compression engine then a higher boost is not required to create more power so you turn the boost down, adjust timing and increase octane, job done without taking 2 steps backward to go one forward.. The problem these days is that too many young "tuners" can't apply past principles that were successful BEFORE all of the high performance parts and ECU programming tech of today was handled so you have no real experience to fall back on except the limited knowledge of the perfect scenario you have today but the reality is turbos have been around and been successfully operating even prior to ECU or OBDII for decades without needing to lower engine compression. The fact is the biggest problem for them in the past was more about heat absorption and bearing failures due to that, but the turbos and the high compression stock engines worked just fine other wise.

Same in lndonesia.

A friend of mine imported a 25 year old BMW & it ended up costing him a small fortune.

Double what the car was worth.

Well to some point "worth" is arguable, if you love the car and have years of love into it and don't have designs on reselling it any time soon or ever? Then the cost may be "worth" it, but not just for the average car certainly.

As he related to me.

He was sorry that he imported it.

l never saw the car, l know that he said that he could have bought two new cars in lndonesia for what it eventually cost him.

Then in that case not one of the cases I was speaking of.

You clearly don't have much idea of what's involved in converting an engine to turbo charging. It's a lot more complicated than just bolting on a turbo, and not exactly a sensible suggestion.

Lower the compression, upgrade the injectors/fuel pump to get more fuel flow, add a turbo, hope that the stock ECU can still maintain stoich and go. Not that hard

All true but you don't necessarily need to lower the compression, just compensate on boost instead.

Some cars (modern) most definitely need compression lowered.

Why? When the purpose of adding a turbo is to increase compression and is directly related to boost pressure?

Get the 1.8 and install a turbo, problem solved and more power, but that may be too much logic applied?

So you are suggesting to aftermarket a new car and void the warranty?

Oh! Heaven forbid!!

Same in lndonesia.

A friend of mine imported a 25 year old BMW & it ended up costing him a small fortune.

Double what the car was worth.

Well to some point "worth" is arguable, if you love the car and have years of love into it and don't have designs on reselling it any time soon or ever? Then the cost may be "worth" it, but not just for the average car certainly.

If you had that car for more than a year you can take it with you tax free and therefore it will be much cheaper despite the shipping than buying something comparable in Thailand!

Thats for Thai nationals that were living abroad and returning isnt it.

I don't think the OP is Thai.

Yes, and which has been mentioned previously is also been suspended, and besides it all comes down to what a given customs officer feels in spite of any written guidelines when it comes down to it, it's all left up to that persons discretion or for that matter personal desires, (which may be your intended import).

^ For the third and final time, this is the problem when some people take EVERYTHING posted on a forum literally and can't see the humor for the banter in spite of being explained several times previously. The fact still remains however it CAN be done if the Op so desired and without too much fuss.

Actually, you can keep saying that but it isn't making you appear any more intelligent or knowledgeable it's a fail frankly and I've made all the educational comments on the topic I never meant seriously anyways and now it's off topic so..............But FYI it's done successfully all the time.

You forgot to add an intercooler and pipework, fabricate a new exhaust, come up with some system to control the waste gate to regulate boost, figure out some way to stop knocking occurring before you destroy the engine...

Pretty sure ALL of that is already available OTC aftermarket without the need for fabrication most times the Honda aftermarket precedes the model introduction these days so again still an easy job to do if one wishes to and like I mentioned an intercooler is not even necessary, it just produces more Hp.

Get the 1.8 and install a turbo, problem solved and more power, but that may be too much logic applied?

You clearly don't have much idea of what's involved in converting an engine to turbo charging. It's a lot more complicated than just bolting on a turbo, and not exactly a sensible suggestion.

Lower the compression, upgrade the injectors/fuel pump to get more fuel flow, add a turbo, hope that the stock ECU can still maintain stoich and go. Not that hard

All true but you don't necessarily need to lower the compression, just compensate on boost instead.

Get the 1.8 and install a turbo, problem solved and more power, but that may be too much logic applied?

You clearly don't have much idea of what's involved in converting an engine to turbo charging. It's a lot more complicated than just bolting on a turbo, and not exactly a sensible suggestion.

No clearly I don't, BTW since when do you HAVE to have an intercooler? You do know it isn't necessary for a turbo it just happens to produce more HP? But no, you're right I've no idea what's involved? BTW what's even less senseless, is that you took my post seriously .. However new engines are the best application since the tolerances are at their optimum preventing too much blow by and since the displacement, in this case, is larger you can get more Hp without having to jack up the boost beyond safe limits for the OEM internals. What was it you were saying again? Most of turbo charging is merely bolt-ons and the rest is a simple matter of ECU tuning . It's the way to quick and easy OEM Hp, always has been and is the case even more so on new models with the ECU's available on today's cars OEM.

Ride your bike into it. Go to local police station and report an accident and that you would like to contact the owner to make reparation.

Or at least just say you did.

^Maybe he can't say? Scooter accident?

Nice to see You back at last[emoji106]

If only temporarily.

Still, nice to be appreciated.

Get the 1.8 and install a turbo, problem solved and more power, but that may be too much logic applied?

But in all cases make sure you avoid doing more damage to the condenser by inadvertently folding over the fins while cleaning avoid high pressure and in fact that may also be a part of your current problem if too many have been damaged or clogged by flying rubber, stones etc.

Gosh and that didn't even get my thread a like? Wait! I'm on the east coast of the west so all is still right as the sun does rise here first.

Well no one said it was going to be perfect, but it can handle it and it won't be daily use by any means, only once in a while, but I've also considered hiring a pick up driver or slightly larger if it isn't feasible and just driving to the track in the Caravelle as a comfort and support vehicle.

Ok Thanks Jitar,

So the funny thing is the trailer will likely be worth less new then used as many come mostly stripped and then the owner customizes it the way they want it with things like winches, awnings, tire racks, cabinets and the like which is why I want a nice used one, a nice new one can be had with no features for about $3800 right now. But be that as it may, I know they can be finicky, actually the personal items inside are going to be mostly well used as well and have already been there and done that previously, hopefully they'll take that into account, I doubt very seriously if a new receipt can be produced for the trailer so they're just going to have work that one out with my shipping agents help.

Since I can't get one of these there and to ship my personal items is going to cost nearly as much as if I rent a container except I can pack it myself prior my way so my stuff doesn't get ruined, (didn't happen shipping that direction but on return here the Thai customs packed it like rubbish without any common sense and that's how a lot of it returned) I think that money is potentially throw away anyway no matter what so it makes it worth the gamble to at least try, if it doesn't cost too much more, and I get it in? It's a win as I see it.

Nice to see You back at last[emoji106]

If only temporarily.

I Pm'd IMHO yesterday but so far no response either there or now in my thread, be nice if he could chime in with whatever he knows, if anything?

No

Thats what I thought. seems like false economy not fixing it as having facial reconstruction surgery will surely be more expensive in the event of an accident.

Maybe not in Thailand, also depends on the starting project .

Ok guys thanks for the replies so far,

The vans we're considering are like 10 seats as I think about it, but really only 7 or 8 max because I don't pack people in like Thai's do and really there will never be that many passengers only my family and maybe one or 2 others on occasion for a total of 7 and at least 2 seats don't even have belts, they are bench seats that face backwards so they are no go's in my mind for passengers while traveling, merely for sitting and conversing while track side or something discussing strategy or why the cars handling sucks so bad.

Here's one of the trailers of interest hope you can open the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-5-x-20-Car-Hauler-Enclosed-Cargo-Trailer-complete-package-with-A-C/141863921348?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D078344a968e64a7ca5c85e7b552c506a%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D321960863332

Van of interest: http://www.taladrod.com/w30/iCar/CarDet.aspx?cid=1604086

So in the end is it even necessary to change them does that limit us? Or does it make it a requirement to have a driver then? Or is there any benefit to just leaving them? Actually we'd likely remove the last row of seats anyway and use that space for cargo of some sort or another probably luggage etc.

Mega, you mention "driving" now is that relative to the van or the trailer being towed? Are you saying you think there may be a problem with my towing it? I really don't want to hire a Thai t tow this as i have years of experience up against them having likely none. Is that a guess or do you have some personal info on that?

Jitar, you say "good luck with customs?" I don't want any border surprises, can you give me any specifics as to why I might run into problems given it's pretty straight forward? Do you know something specifically or just going on the usual anticipation of customs reactions without a specific example?

BTW happy New Year, we're about to catch up with you, I'm going outside right now to set off a few bottle rockets with my boys..

Hi guys,

Some things have changed recently and I'm now investigating the thought of returning to Thailand and in the process bringing over a used 20' enclosed auto carrier filled with our personal items and some tools instead of a cargo container with the goal obviously of using it to transport a race car and equipment to events and was wondering if anyone had any ideas on that possibility? Would I be able to get it registered in your opinion? Or would it just become a storage container? Can't see really why that would happen and I have ideas of how to go around that we're it to end up being the case but TiT and would rather have it on the up and up.

Also looking at nice used Carravelle to tow and support it with at the track, they are well appointed and have engines no smaller then a 2.8 V6 for the most part so they could tow with care. But I see them all listed with blue letter plates, that designates passenger van yes? Which is a no no for a foreign driver I understand and if so? Can the registration be changed to black letters for personal use? I can't see why not but again TiT. Serious questions, so serious input please?

Any thoughts on taxes or/and duties too on a trailer that will be likely several years old and obviously not motorized of any kind? No reason to believe it won't be equal to or better then Thai regs but if so we can quite easily bring it up to the regs as required. I've searched but can;t really find anything that adresses this specific situation and no luck at the Land Transport site but maybe I just don't know where to look? Regards