WarpSpeed

He said it was his usual mom and pop garage, seems he's paying a bit of a premium for the guy speaking English and I guess that's a skill worth paying for too, the guy had to take time and effort to learn, it's worth something a little extra over the local village idiot. Though he's likely to get MORE oil leaks but add in water and maybe vacuum leaks as well reusing old dry and brittle water and vacuum hoses and what about all the other gaskets not being replaced? Just sayin . But now since the garage guy was the seller and the car was given to him for a debt owed it's all a question of just how trustworthy this guy actually is because it's very likely he knew the issue was there and the cause when he sold it on.

The new garage checked the water level and the hoses, as I asked - I was there taking a look at them right alongside. They said all was in order, which was why they diagnosed the head gasket.

I didn't look inside the cooling system before buying the car - I just drove it for a few weeks test drive on a 10k deposit, and since it never got even the slightest bit hot even during the heat of the day, all seemed good at the time.

Anyway, no one has suggested to me what might be 'underlying causes' of the head-gasket failure, other than the obvious one that the car was previously overheated - which is an extremely common occurrence in this climate and with these delicate motors.

Climate aside and motor delicacy myth aside, overheating is not an extremely common occurrence with cars that are properly maintained and running well only when they've been neglected or abused. Underlying causes have all been listed already in your previous thread with the Honda, a motor is motor beyond a bit of personal engineering differences by different manufacturers.

Clare, the question always has to be WHY does the head gasket blow? I've only had one head gasket blow in my lifetime and that's even with high mileage and stock racing engines included, that one was on my race and had it's reasons too. There is some reason for all these head rebuilds, likely the previous owners abuse but still that needs to be considered when buying, there are always indications of some sort if one can look carefully enough.

But my point is that just replacing the head gasket and having the head shaved is usually just fixing the end result of other problems that need to be fleshed out first in addition.

Easy.......It's French.

Ok point taken, we no longer allow French cars in the states, most British brands too now that I think about it, (oh sorry I mean Chinese brands) so I guess this anomaly is a kin to the British issues with electrics then? Seems maybe a solution would be for the French to engineer the British electrics and the British the French engines..

Running??? That's going to be difficult to source, they usually don't operate without a motor or engine attached to them and they're really hard to transport and install while running too .

Seriously though, no one has any idea where you're located so kind of hard to give any suggestions with that. People always posting the minimal amount of information possible makes this a very slow and tedious process.

5k is about right for a head grind and gasket replacement.

Wow, that's so cheap. Thanks for the comment. I guess I was overcharged previously at the other shop - around 10k on my Honda.

Was the honda done at a dealer or a regular garage? Dealers charge more. I'd have ask to see the gasket they planned to install. Was it a genuine one? I guess 5K is ok for this work. Either way, that will stop any oil leaks you may have had also.

He said it was his usual mom and pop garage, seems he's paying a bit of a premium for the guy speaking English and I guess that's a skill worth paying for too, the guy had to take time and effort to learn, it's worth something a little extra over the local village idiot. Though he's likely to get MORE oil leaks but add in water and maybe vacuum leaks as well reusing old dry and brittle water and vacuum hoses and what about all the other gaskets not being replaced? Just sayin . But now since the garage guy was the seller and the car was given to him for a debt owed it's all a question of just how trustworthy this guy actually is because it's very likely he knew the issue was there and the cause when he sold it on.

Clare, the question always has to be WHY does the head gasket blow? I've only had one head gasket blow in my lifetime and that's even with high mileage and stock racing engines included, that one was on my race and had it's reasons too. There is some reason for all these head rebuilds, likely the previous owners abuse but still that needs to be considered when buying, there are always indications of some sort if one can look carefully enough.

But my point is that just replacing the head gasket and having the head shaved is usually just fixing the end result of other problems that need to be fleshed out first in addition.

Well I'm sure that's true, but how would one know about something like that? What is mysterious is why did the car run for me for 2-3 weeks without ever getting the least bit hot, and then the head suddenly burst? The fans, the water, etc, are all normal. Apparently among Thais head rebuilds are an annual event...

Well did you even look inside the catch tank or open the radiator if that was possible? It's possible they put an egg or 2 in it to stop any potential leaks temporarily, that's just a bush trick which the Thai's may use but there are plenty of stop leak products available to stop a leak temporarily and they ALL leave some evidence of their being used but you have to open the system to tell. Given how suddenly it came on and without prior symptoms it sounds as if it had some damage somewhere else previously and that precipitated your head gasket failure (if it is a head gasket at this point, no way to know for certain) they may or may not have fixed but after it already damaged your head and or gasket and they put in a cheap stop leak to make the sale now it's suddenly let go and here you are.

Clare, the question always has to be WHY does the head gasket blow? I've only had one head gasket blow in my lifetime and that's even with high mileage and stock racing engines included, that one was on my race and had it's reasons too. There is some reason for all these head rebuilds, likely the previous owners abuse but still that needs to be considered when buying, there are always indications of some sort if one can look carefully enough.

But my point is that just replacing the head gasket and having the head shaved is usually just fixing the end result of other problems that need to be fleshed out first in addition.

I agree as long as it's sincere and not another troll. So for the moment I'm treating it that way, fingers crossed.

I hope my off topic response will not be deleted in kind. I appreciate your post it sounds a bit suspicious in tone, especially being a new poster, hard to know, it could go either way but I will give it the benefit of the doubt as not being a troll and being sincere. I hope you'll understand my skepticism, there are more then enough here who also bring their friends around or post themselves as another nik for just a few antagonizing posts just intent on starting a slagging match for their personal amusement.

My more than 30 years of experience is well documented in threads here, (too much to suit some who are some how offended or threatened with such things) it ranges from personal vehicles of dozens over my lifetime as well as more than 30 years of motorsports experience of numerous programs, of my own and others, amateur/pro street stock level classes which for those who don't know (and that's quite a few) are classes that utilize mostly rules limited, street stock engines, chassis, trannies, (that's cars not the other type so prevalent in Thailand ), slightly modified suspension, tires etc. with few modifications in sprint and endurance racing from 2 hours to 24 hours.

Currently I'm stateside with family and other connections still in Thailand and focusing closely on building a new racing program to compete in Rx8's and also acquiring them, refurbishing the engines in-house, relisting them for sale as they are a classic already and can be had quite cheaply here due to engine failures but with a strong enthusiasts market and high resale value once repaired and may be the last rotary, but are the only 4 door rotary sports car Mazda ever sold to date at any rate. We are also focusing on the performance side, producing both street and track cars for sale offering performance upgrades of customer cars and event rental with track side support and possibly an MX5 or 2 as well, as there is a burgeoning spec series market for those here as well.

We have had Honda backing in the past, we have Mazda backing on a smaller scale at the moment seeking to build a strong relationship with them but over the years we have competed in and eventually won in our own programs as well as others in every drive configuration, engine configuration in Mercs, Acura, VW, Dodge, Mitsubishi, Suzuki, Porsche and now Mazda to name a few. I have competed both here in North America, have held FIA, SCCA pro and Grand American pro licenses (working to get all of those back now as well as IMSA) and in Asia, Thailand, Sri Lanka and China though not as much as I would have liked there for a number of reasons mostly due to family commitments. I not only drive mine but also others and have also built and prepared all of my own race cars to date. Hope that about covers it to your liking.. Any more and we'll have to exchange PM's but I guess you don't have enough posts yet to allow that?

Duplicate..

I used a place up in Bangkok years ago it was an incredible task locating them, amazingly no machine shops I went too had any idea of the process, or where to get it done? I ended up finding them in the actual phone book, we had an English copy and I looked under manufacturing I believe it was, to find them, they would be good for you to as they were on the south side of Bangkok almost to 7 of of Cheang Wattana as remember but it isn't called Chaeng Wattana on that end it turns into Rama ? something, my memory is failing me at the mo. maybe someone else more familiar with the roads in that area can help out with names of those roads. But see if you can get a hold of an English phone book many companies are not listed online.

Hmmm, look what I found? Maybe there's a good starting point here: http://www.yellowpages.co.th/en/ypsearch?q=sand+blasting&w=&d=2000

And which one are you since you gave nothing in the form of useful information? Which brings up a third type of poster those like Sviss which fall into the instigating trolls with nothing of value to share group.

You're at it again, eh, gobby. Until you instigated the sniping I hadn't commented here so,by definition, that makes you the troll.

Hmmmmm...

Gentlemen; Probem solved.

The police have investigated due to several complaints and have found that it is indeed a new bank security system as a couple of you guessed. and not criminal activity as was speculated on social media.They report that the Bank has no intention of changing it and we'll just have to live with it.

This forum does has a reputation for rudeness, off topic replies and general mud slinging, for example I posted a question about visa extension and only two replies had any factual value. IE most posts were utterly WRONG and many contradicted the correct information.

My point is, if you haven't got anything germain to the post- why not just hold off? I realise that this forum is mostly entertaiment for many members who like to rattle off what they think is a witty post as fast as possible, but does it ever occur to you that silly crap reveals an insight into you that, if you thought about it you probably wouldn't want people to have?

Not sure what any of that rubbish you posted was about, good for posting the end result and yes, you're welcome, what outstanding gents giving proper credit where credit is due ............................... Once again..............

Ok well there is still a few letters missing from your engine code to help narrow it down, but all I can find shows that it is an OBDII 16 pin connector, doubt it will tell you anything though, but it sounds like maybe it's been solved with some adjustment at this point. Yeah the more you drive it the more it'll clear out, the same thing is happening with my Rx8 that I purchased a couple of months ago, it wasn't run for a while but worse yet it wasn't run hard which the Renesis engine requires to blow out the carbon which is what prematurely kills these rotary engines. I did a sea foam treatment in the engine as soon as I got it, also did the throttle body, the oil was new looking when I got it in spite of it being close to changing point and after I've sea foamed it and run it hard the oil is nasty black and coming out tomorrow and the car has noticeably better throttle response and HP now as well as running smoother.

Yeah, it uses bluetooth, not the toothpaste

But Mad as I've mentioned at least twice now, but can't yet confirm since I'm not certain of the year of model, his system is not OBDII as I understand from researching, it is Motronic OBDI and if that is the case he can not read the codes from the ECU in that fashion, he has to attach a jumper to a 2 pronged plug in the fuse panel box under the hood and then read the CEL in the car on the dash as it sets off a series of flashes to indicate the problem code and this system is very limited to engine only issues and if he had something it could read and there was a working light bulb in the dash it'd already be flashing on until read and cleared.

Be nice if the attackers were removed as well.

Yes, here let me help make that clear for those who may misinterpret, "attackers"...not "defenders" of which it seems one of those posts actually was.. Unless there was at least another "attacking" post posted AFTER the defensive post that was deleted prior to.

Still no answer Alan, figured as much with only 36 posts and already slinging cryptic horse pucky at least that's what your response reads like and if I'm off base I apologize ahead of time but you didn't clarify. You asked a potentially silly question with no basis for your hypothesis and got a more reasoned answer in return that dismissed your conspiracy theory and well I guess you didn't like it, too bad..

^Ouch! That one stings..

And which one are you since you gave nothing in the form of useful information? Which brings up a third type of poster those like Sviss which fall into the instigating trolls with nothing of value to share group.

What was wrong with using the key to lock it? Or just pushing your locks before closing the door? It could just be some sort of electronic interference from a security system possibly?

You beat me to it

Well I have to sometimes, but as a matter of fact the more I think about it with the current unrest in Thailand it is wholly possible the bank, which would be a likely target for mischief, has some sort of remote blocking security to prevent a remotely activated ED in the region of their office.

What was wrong with using the key to lock it? Or just pushing your locks before closing the door? It could just be some sort of electronic interference from a security system possibly?

Wouldn't cars run richer when cold, hence a choke?

Today I got the car back film looks good, and though he couldn't trace the gas odor problem, he fixed the heavy clutch - it's much better now, takes a lot of the stress out of stop-n-go.

Well fuel injection does not really choke as in the old carburetor sense, because fuel is right there immediately in the combustion chamber pumped in directly as soon as you turn the switch and pump comes on, it starts rich to get it started but almost immediately leans out once running so as not to foul the plugs quickly. They richen on top end while running higher speeds to produce more HP and choke down again when slowing or idling to prevent plug fouling and be more fuel efficient.

What year was this car again? I see nothing about OBDII on this car I see an older motoronic set up which I was rather surprised to see and it only has OBDI, used to have the same system on my VW I raced and I had a potentiometer set up on it in the cockpit so I could manipulate the fuel mixture via the values input into the ECU, this allowed me to run my car leaner on the bottom end and when it was cold or idling so as not to foul the plugs as the system was known for leaning on top end so to counter that many teams fiddled with the system to make it run rich but only they had no way to control it so it ran rich all the time. This would foul their plugs on idle around the pits while cold or during the pace laps of the race while my car ran perfectly and when the race started I was gone while they'd be forced to run slower for a couple of laps to burn off the fouled plugs before they got to maximum performance. I on the other hand was running leaner until full warm up and then would richen my mixture on top end and make the gap between us even longer. It's best advantage was in high humidity though which was much of the time but even worse when it rained obviously, was also very handy when I had any sort of charging issues and my battery power was waning and I had to keep it at peak by manually adjusting so as not to go into limp home mode but finish the race.

If you smell it more when it's cold it's most likely the return pressure as it runs leaner when it's cold so it returns more fuel to the tank, just realized it's Motronic so it's not OBDII and it does have CEL though, it needs to be checked to make sure the bulb is installed and working to be sure it doesn't have a code on it, then go from there, but still the need to check and inspect the return lines and pressure canister still exists.

Get one of the 5$ OBDII adapters, that can read out your engines failure codes on your phone. Or fins one, who can do that. Then you can fix the problem. Local idiots wont.

OBDII does not read ABS ecu. it only reads Engine ECU.

If you were doing some enthusiastic driving with it and lifted a wheel while in motion that'd do it but I'm guessing that you're not getting that much performance out of your Yaris on the street so next best thing.

OP probably have something wrapped around one of the hubs where the sensor contacts are behind the wheel and it is interfering with the sensor intermittently, this happens with mud too if it's thick enough to bond to the sensors or the rotor contacts. I had a neighbor that had a brother in law, Aussie guy, that lived up country he was told he needed a 20,000b ABS pump in his Passat and that was about 1/3 the value of the car. He asked me to have a look and I don't work on dirty cars, so after looking at his sensors and rotors all caked with mud I gave it a good pressure wash and what da ya know? The ABS sensors worked again! I wasn't all that surprised I told him that might likely be his problem, needless to say he was pretty happy. I have also found tape stuck to one before so check them first. If you drive with the rea brake on even slightly that to can set them off so make sure your rear brake is off and also that it's not dragging when you drive.

I do worry about the OP..........

He does seem to be *edit* quite a bit out of his element with these project cars he keeps buying.

just use petrol........it disolves the stuff.....

And burns your hands............

Well it does mine......

...Bloke down our ways baths in the stuff - never had a problem (other than a house fire) in years.....

These kind of posts are always entertaining..

^This, auction price is oft times beneath wholesale.