Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Hi guys newbie here...... Bought a NSR150RR a few months ago and have had endless shit with it.. Before taking it to the machanic I tried fixing bike myself.... it could not rev past 7000rpm when standing still... Now when in gear it spluttered and could not get past 5000rpm... Topspeed 80km ....so started cleaning carb out, fuel tank and tap, put new piston, secondhand cyclinder.... RC valve servo and chip replaced with secondhand... Cooked my exaust coz oil was dripping , so it all clean.... I feel like i have done everything i could... So took to machanic he managed to get the revs up to 10 000rpm when not in gear....First gear goes to 9000rpm and the rest of the gears 5000rpm...He say that is all he can do coz bike old....I dont believe the road has come to a end surely there someone out there that can help me.....Was thinking finding a good secondhand engine a put it , now what if it has to do with something else.... Hope this made sense... Mark from Thailand Krabi-Aonang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Very difficult by proxy! Is the RC valve operating at 7500-8000 ish as usual? Does it cycle when you turn the ignition on? Are the reeds OK? When riding turn the fuel turned off see what happens. Float level could be off float could be punctured corroded by ethanol in the fuel. Could be ignition? Stick a new/different coil on it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 3 minutes ago, VocalNeal said: Very difficult by proxy! Is the RC valve operating at 7500-8000 ish as usual? Does it cycle when you turn the ignition on? Are the reeds OK? When riding turn the fuel turned off see what happens. Float level could be off float could be punctured corroded by ethanol in the fuel. Could be ignition? Stick a new/different coil on it. Reed valves are good.... When turn on ignition there is some movement down there, but it does not do a full turn left and then right.... Machanic say he tested the coil and it's good... Not sure how honest he is.... I did want to replace the coil, but was getting tired of wasting money.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Just now, Tioga246 said: Reed valves are good.... When turn on ignition there is some movement down there, but it does not do a full turn left and then right.... Machanic say he tested the coil and it's good... Not sure how honest he is.... I did want to replace the coil, but was getting tired of wasting money.... RC valve can not open full.... It starts to splutter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 1 minute ago, Tioga246 said: RC valve can not open full.... It starts to splutter.... And only first gear I can feel the RC valve working and that's not even properly.... And I would say it started at 8000.... And what you say about ignition, how that affect the bike. I'm only asking coz I thought it controlled on and off really.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Just now, Tioga246 said: And only first gear I can feel the RC valve working and that's not even properly.... And I would say it started at 8000.... And what you say about ignition, how that affect the bike. I'm only asking coz I thought it controlled on and off really.... And it runs out of petrol when I turn the tap off.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) So no change in performance when the level in carburetor changes and leans out the mixture, just before it runs out? Have you tried a new spark plug I didn't notice that on your list. NGK BR9ECM or Denso W27EMR-C Gap is 0.7mm Try unscrewing, if is the screw on type, the spark plug cap cutting 5mm of the lead and screwing the cap back on. Edited October 31, 2017 by VocalNeal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 2 hours ago, VocalNeal said: So no change in performance when the level in carburetor changes and leans out the mixture, just before it runs out? Have you tried a new spark plug I didn't notice that on your list. NGK BR9ECM or Denso W27EMR-C Gap is 0.7mm Try unscrewing, if is the screw on type, the spark plug cap cutting 5mm of the lead and screwing the cap back on. Yes replaced plug.... Not sure of it is that type.... And when ran out of fuel it just died, I think I was holding it to 5000rpm hoping it would spring forward and gain its power... And what you say about spark plug.... Cut 5mm off the thread and then screw plug cap back on..... I've also read how people have changed the main jet in there carb and problem solved.... Or they just put a bigger carb.... Then there also changing fly wheel coil.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 No . No cut 5mm off the HT lead where is joins to/screws into the cap. Sorry maybe I was not clear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 OK great I will try that when I pick my bike up tomorrow from machanic..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaiguzzi Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Sounds like electrics to me. CDI. Servo. These bikes (unlike the mechanical KRR Kawasaki) need a battery and decent charging to make sure the servo works as it should. I would substitute known good CDI and servo/motor in that order. Could even be something as simple as poor wiring between the above components. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 I did the servo and the cdi is where the spark comes out... Could u send a pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaiguzzi Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 CDI = capacitor discharge ignition. CDI makes the spark and at what advance it happens and when. Spark comes out of the coil, which is told when to spark by the CDI via the stator/rotor. Pics - no, never owned one of these bikes, though I am vaguely familiar with these small performance 2 strokes. They are very simple to work on, but you have (along with the Yamaha version) the most complicated due to electric servo motors. There is a w/shop manual on line free to download which may help, otherwise i'd suggest a specialist, i'm sure there is a good NSR mechanic in every major city or large town. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchbike Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Which model NSR150RR do you have? the older model with the 2 round headlights or the later one with the same lights as the 150SP I believe the older 150RRs have 2 CDI's with one of them for the servo/rc valves This is the newer version which you will find under the seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Hi yes it has the same lights as the SP but think it's has 2 cdi.... When I bought I RC valve servo moto it came with a chip they called it... And on my bike there a similar box like the servo moto... This bike like 20 years old.... Wish I new... It does not look it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchbike Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 See photo for the location of the CDI on the bike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaiguzzi Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Another not well known fact is that CDI's have an electronic capacitor inside which DOES age as it gets older and has a reduction in oooomph (storage) capacity. Ditto the windings in the stator/rotor. All needs checking out properly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaiguzzi Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 52 minutes ago, Dutchbike said: See photo for the location of the CDI on the bike I've seen these down my favourite mom'n'pop m/c shop being worked on, all stripped out with the bodywork and tank, seat unit removed. For a simple single cylinder 2 stroke, there are a helluva lot of bits and bobs on one of these. And what a wiring harness! I know they are road legal and got lights and horns and er... electric servos etc, but hell, problem solving on my 3 wire ty mono's seems a helluva lot simpler..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Hahaha yes there is alot of things going on in these bikes.... OK I know what you talking about there... Kine has the same... Now to find one on Facebook and hopefully it's the problem... But I will first check all the other details the guys suggested... If no luck I will find a good working one.... All I wanted was a fast little 2 stroke to play with while living here in Aonang Krabi.... I'm no machanic but am I Automotive machinist by trade.... Did my first piston and ring change with this bike lol... Even had the rings upside down.... Should of just got a 4 stroke people tell me... But I have faith in this little beast... I know there is a beast inside there ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 12 minutes ago, thaiguzzi said: CDI's have an electronic capacitor inside which DOES age as it gets olde Generally speaking capacitors are the first electronic component to "go" . But the OP's bike does run.... If the crank seals were gone it wouldn't run. Ask me how I know! Manually turn the RC valve with the key in the "Off" position. Then turn on the bike, the RC valve should reset to the low RPM position. That would identify any battery problem. It seems to be a load related problem as it revs in 1st gear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaiguzzi Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 13 minutes ago, Tioga246 said: Hahaha yes there is alot of things going on in these bikes.... OK I know what you talking about there... Kine has the same... Now to find one on Facebook and hopefully it's the problem... But I will first check all the other details the guys suggested... If no luck I will find a good working one.... All I wanted was a fast little 2 stroke to play with while living here in Aonang Krabi.... I'm no machanic but am I Automotive machinist by trade.... Did my first piston and ring change with this bike lol... Even had the rings upside down.... Should of just got a 4 stroke people tell me... But I have faith in this little beast... I know there is a beast inside there ? Yes, keep going, these little 2 strokes are a helluva lot more fun than 4 strokes twice their size. Just too physically small for my 6'3" frame. Last year I had a go on one of my Thai mechanic/buddy's well sorted KRR 150. I COULD NOT BELIEVE how fast that thing went. He specializes in KRR's, does them up, sells them on, starting price, inc new paint, rims and tyres, 100% legit is 32k, going up to 39-42k for a bike with a 6k exhaust and a 4k Made in Japan braced alloy swing arm. He guarantees every bike he sells will do a minimum 180 kms p/h or your money back.... He once rode Udon - Buriram and back in 7 hours on one of his KRR's.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Hahaha yes there is alot of things going on in these bikes.... OK I know what you talking about there... Kine has the same... Now to find one on Facebook and hopefully it's the problem... But I will first check all the other details the guys suggested... If no luck I will find a good working one.... All I wanted was a fast little 2 stroke to play with while living here in Aonang Krabi.... I'm no machanic but am I Automotive machinist by trade.... Did my first piston and ring change with this bike lol... Even had the rings upside down.... Should of just got a 4 stroke people tell me... But I have faith in this little beast... I know there is a beast inside there ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 23 hours ago, VocalNeal said: No . No cut 5mm off the HT lead where is joins to/screws into the cap. Sorry maybe I was not clear. 8 hours ago, thaiguzzi said: Sounds like electrics to me. CDI. Servo. These bikes (unlike the mechanical KRR Kawasaki) need a battery and decent charging to make sure the servo works as it should. I would substitute known good CDI and servo/motor in that order. Could even be something as simple as poor wiring between the above components. 5 hours ago, Dutchbike said: Which model NSR150RR do you have? the older model with the 2 round headlights or the later one with the same lights as the 150SP I believe the older 150RRs have 2 CDI's with one of them for the servo/rc valves This is the newer version which you will find under the seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 On 31/10/2017 at 7:48 PM, VocalNeal said: Update on bike..... Collected it, only cost me 100baht... Running OK in 1st gear, wish I could get it to full power band.... And max speed 100km woohoo fastest I've been on this bike.... Rest of the gears max revs is 7000rpm... And wanted to say when holding the throttle only half open it does not perform well at all... When in low rpm and I open the throttle full it actually feels like a normal bike, untill they get past 5000rpm then it starts to jerk and splutter.... So tomorrow it's fiddling time again.... And thanks guys for all your info you have been giving out here.... 9 hours ago, thaiguzzi said: Sounds like electrics to me. CDI. Servo. These bikes (unlike the mechanical KRR Kawasaki) need a battery and decent charging to make sure the servo works as it should. I would substitute known good CDI and servo/motor in that order. Could even be something as simple as poor wiring between the above components. 7 hours ago, Dutchbike said: Which model NSR150RR do you have? the older model with the 2 round headlights or the later one with the same lights as the 150SP I believe the older 150RRs have 2 CDI's with one of them for the servo/rc valves This is the newer version which you will find under the seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Woke up this morning and there a nice pool of oil on the floor.... From the exhaust, actually 2 pools of oil.... One inline with the tip of exhaust and the second where the tail of the exhaust bolts to the rest of it..... Hope that helps with anything...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Take the plug out and have a look. Sounds like it is running way too rich. What mix are you using? Are you still using autolube system? What oil are you using? Have a look at the autolube setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 60baht oil haha.... Autolube pump.... And I set it to book spec I think hahaha..... No the marking lining up with the notch when throttle is fully open..... Now let just say it is my cdi causing bike to ride like shit... Surely that would cause uneven mix of fuel and 2stroke oil.... Leading to my exhaust dripping oil out.... I'm no machanic here, it's just how I picture it..... And yes I did think it was that too..... Firstly my head has been eaten from lack of antifreeze, so I replaced that with good used one.... 12 hours ago, Tioga246 said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllanB Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Our local Yamaha dealer in Khon Kaen has about 50 of these machines in stock, all very old looking and dusty, but with zero km, so new bikes. I don't know why he is keeping them, but this is Thailand. They are two stroke and being fast and bought for that very reason, they tend to get thrashed, so the kms you have may not be that high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Silly question? Is the choke ( enrichment device ) stuck open? Air filter is plugged Air jets in carb are plugged? Take the muffler off the end of the pipe and run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tioga246 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Millage very high on this bike.... Cable on choke abit worn bit it works.... Another thing I did check... And there is no filter in my box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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