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Best way to renovate wood pool deck ?


SlyouThai

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Can you lift out one of those, like at the bottom of the pic?  Check the integrity and if any bug damage.  Otherwise, I would go for a power wash and then pick a quality product designed for wood decking.

Edited by bankruatsteve
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7 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Can you lift out one of those, like at the bottom of the pic?  Check the integrity and if any bug damage.  Otherwise, I would go for a power wash and then pick a quality product designed for wood decking.

they are fixed to the structure under but i will try.

Power wash gonna remove the paint correct ? if so i guess i need new paint and some sort of protective coat after that.

Edited by SlyouThai
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5 minutes ago, SlyouThai said:

they are fixed to the structure under but i will try.

Power wash gonna remove the paint correct ? if so i guess i need new paint and some sort of protective coat after that.

Power wash removes the paint, right.  IMO easier than other methods.  I haven't re-surfaced a deck in over 30 years but that was just a one or two coats of stain/sealer.  IE: one product.

 

The wood appears to be wrinkled (?) not a good sign if so.

Edited by bankruatsteve
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it looks like a softwood treat with CCA or similar. Either way the decking is installed upside down. Those hills and valleys (reeding) is mean to be on the underside so water is not trapped between the underside of the decking and the joist.

 

Because it is installed upside down and has been painted, the only way you will get rid of the old paint is by powerwash. Who knows how the results will turn out. If the water jet is too powerful, it will tear into the timber so do a trial.

 

Normally you would just sand the old paint off, bring up a face of the timber and start again, but in this case you can't.

 

In the bottom of the picture, I could be wrong but it looks like a fungal growth. Or it might just be where paint is missing and the bleached wood under is showing.

 

Best way, if you have the time, would be to pull up the boards and flip them over and screw them down with 304 stainless steel screws in the old holes if they are in good condition. Then get the surface sanded and then fillay put a nice decking oil on the deck and re oil every 3-6 months.

 

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34 minutes ago, Farangwithaplan said:

 

In the bottom of the picture, I could be wrong but it looks like a fungal growth. Or it might just be where paint is missing and the bleached wood under is showing.

 

 

 

Its the paint missing . very interesting points you made , thanks for infos.

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33 minutes ago, Farangwithaplan said:

The wood is not wrinkled. It is reeded. That is meant to go on the underside of the deck.

 

i thought it was for anti slippery , if i turn it upside down and reinstall will it be slippery ?

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If the deck is sound wire brush the the areas with loose flaking paint then power wash to remove mould, dirt and oil. Don’t use too higher pressure as that it damages the exposed timber. Paint over with a decking paint. The planks are laid the correct way up for wet areas if you turn them over you will slip rrrrs up and break your neck falling into an MT pool.


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47 minutes ago, SlyouThai said:

by the way if someone have a recommendation for a good quality composite wood decking material ... im not there yet but who knows...

Dura plank but 22mm thick. Far too often I have seen bars restaurants, shops put their final finish of a 15mm plank down. Guaranteed after 6 months its cracked and wrecked everywhere.

22mm needs an elephant to crack it.

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On 6/28/2019 at 5:15 PM, Wirejerker said:

The planks are laid the correct way up for wet areas if you turn them over you will slip rrrrs up and break your neck falling into an MT pool.
 

Not true. Here is one of many examples from authoritative web sites.

 

https://www.intergrain.com.au/advice/is-my-decking-upside-down-reeded-decking/

 

and another from a supplier offering a basic understanding of why they are installed incorrectly.

 

http://www.olearyandsons.com/blog/2016/10/17/why-decking-grooves-facing-up-is-wrong/

 

As I have already stated, and it is noted on the Intergrain site (along with numerous architectural sites if you choose to search for yourself), the reeding minimises the area in contact with the support joist (or bearer) stopping moisture getting trapped there. When moisture sits on timber, any timber it will eventually start to break it down.

 

It is a fallacy that the reeding above is improve grip. It's not. If you want a non slip surface, buy a paint with such properties.

 

 

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On 6/28/2019 at 5:43 PM, eyecatcher said:

Dura plank but 22mm thick. Far too often I have seen bars restaurants, shops put their final finish of a 15mm plank down. Guaranteed after 6 months its cracked and wrecked everywhere.

22mm needs an elephant to crack it.

The thickness of the boards is dependent on the spacings of the supporting structure (joists) underneath. 19mm thick decking material can sit on joists with a maximum spacing of 450mm spacings. And from memory, that will allow for a weight (point load) of 1.8 tonne on it without breaking. (This is a rough summary. I haven't needed to remember that load in quite a few years but you will find it in your countries relevant building codes and it will be similar to New Zealand's). I'm not sure what an elphant weighs, but divide the weight of an elephant by 4 (for each leg) and you will know if an elephant will break your floor board.

 

22mm decking can have maximum spacing of the joists under at 600mm.

 

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32 minutes ago, Farangwithaplan said:

The thickness of the boards is dependent on the spacings of the supporting structure (joists) underneath. 19mm thick decking material can sit on joists with a maximum spacing of 450mm spacings. And from memory, that will allow for a weight (point load) of 1.8 tonne on it without breaking. (This is a rough summary. I haven't needed to remember that load in quite a few years but you will find it in your countries relevant building codes and it will be similar to New Zealand's). I'm not sure what an elphant weighs, but divide the weight of an elephant by 4 (for each leg) and you will know if an elephant will break your floor board.

 

22mm decking can have maximum spacing of the joists under at 600mm.

 

Yes off course it depends on spacing and floor joists are traditionally set at 400c/c to accomodate 2400*1200 deckboards.

The relevance here is that people are using 15mm boards and there steel deckframe is invariably at 600c/c. The decking and framing is so much cheaper but they have already ridden into the night when the customer first notices that two board ends are limply screwed into a 40mm steel.

But hey, 22mm deckboards on steel bearers at 400cc will easily carry that elephant

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Not true. Here is one of many examples from authoritative web sites.
 
https://www.intergrain.com.au/advice/is-my-decking-upside-down-reeded-decking/
 
and another from a supplier offering a basic understanding of why they are installed incorrectly.
 
http://www.olearyandsons.com/blog/2016/10/17/why-decking-grooves-facing-up-is-wrong/
 
As I have already stated, and it is noted on the Intergrain site (along with numerous architectural sites if you choose to search for yourself), the reeding minimises the area in contact with the support joist (or bearer) stopping moisture getting trapped there. When moisture sits on timber, any timber it will eventually start to break it down.
 
It is a fallacy that the reeding above is improve grip. It's not. If you want a non slip surface, buy a paint with such properties.
 
 

Thanks fo that info. My deck 4X7 meters was installed reed side down, I later built a couple of ramps when my mother in law moved in with us and I, in my ignorance, installed them reed side up so she would not slip. I have to do some work on one of the ramps so I’ll turn them over. If the experts are wrong and it makes them slippery and she can’t get up that will be a bonus and she can stay outside.


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On 6/28/2019 at 4:52 PM, SlyouThai said:

by the way if someone have a recommendation for a good quality composite wood decking material ... im not there yet but who knows...

I used one of the well known brands of composite look alike wood planks when the house and pool was build a number of years back.

 

The outer skin of the planks has lifted and peeled off in places.

The planks when wet have no strength and break easily.

Any sinking of the deck footing result in the plank breaking as they do not bend like a wood plank does.

Some parts of the deck that hang over the edge of the steel have broken off. 

Net result:

I would never use this kind of materiel on a pool deck again.

 

Your existing planks look fairly sound, suggest clean off the flaked paint and re finish, would a good jet washer be powerful enough to clean back to the wood? 

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